Bill Kelso "Archive" Jackets - Reproductions

[AeroFan_07]

Just checking into this as I "stumbled" upon this page searching for Vintage Jackets at lunch today. Interesting concept, This European manufacturer has an extensive collection of jackets which are shown on the page. Then when you select the one you want re-made, they will apparently make you a near identical new copy of it, but sized and fitted to your specified dimensions. This is attractive to me being 6' 1" tall, 195 lbs and very difficult to fit into any actual vintage jacket. Currently it even looks like they are throwing a 250 pound discount for first-time customers now too.

There is a lot on here ad some very interesting styles. A Large Number of Half-Belts as well. They even have several lining options, and I would be curious about hardware, etc. In any case, has anyone here tried this and how were the results?

Webiste: https://billkelsomfg.com/shop/vintage-leather-jacket-archives/

 

[handymike]

@regius has ordered a jacket from this collection, but the photos are “borrowed” from Lightning Magazine and Rin Tanaka’s books. BK doesn’t actually have all of these jackets in-hand AFAIK.

 

[Tom71]

There are many mysteries involving Bill Kelso.

I note that his website lists a UK address, but that is likely to be a postbox only .

His FAQ´s now deal with a lot of the issues discussed here. He still claims to produce in Greece, so that is that.

 

[Marc mndt]

I note that his website lists a UK address, but that is likely to be a postbox only .

His FAQ´s now deal with a lot of the issues discussed here. He still claims to produce in Greece, so that is that.

The jackets are shipped from this address in Piraeus. The return address is a postbox in piraeus.

Platon Chaldeos of Mutual Maritime services, a daughter company of a Korean shipbroker company.

 

[Boyo]

A nice bit of detective work Marc.. are his jackets made in Korea?


I ordered a BK jacket direct 3-4 years ago. the jacket took a about 10 months to be delivered. the jacket was beautiful and well made, but the sizing was off, as most of my requested measurements were not really adhered to. they were all close but just far enough away so that it wasn't a comfortable jacket to wear.. sold it.

 

[Mich486]

A few people have ordered from the archive line, I believe also Canuck Panda. They make you the jacket out of the pictures at a decent price it seems. It’s basically a test jacket for them and then it gets added to the main line for a higher price.

 

[Marc mndt]

A nice bit of detective work Marc.. are his jackets made in Korea?

I don't know about that. My theory is that the jackets produced in a low wages country and then shipped to Greece. I have 0 evidence to substantiate this though. I also have 0 evidence that the jackets are actually produced in Greece.

I do know that I'd rather buy my jackets from a real person with a workshop that can be visited, instead of giving my money to an alias.

 

[Edward]

There are many mysteries involving Bill Kelso.

I note that his website lists a UK address, but that is likely to be a postbox only .

His FAQ´s now deal with a lot of the issues discussed here. He still claims to produce in Greece, so that is that.

BK has long been a bit of a mystery, as noted. A long time ago, when they first started with a mid-priced 'house' A2, the marketing suggested the brand was a new development from a company that had long been into making quality leather jackets for the fashion business. Later on they decided to go into a price tier up with contract-specific jackets. They sold off the original jackets at a very discounted rate, and I almost bought one then. I was, however, between sizes and emailed for advice as to whether I should go for size B or size C. The reply came back giving me the hard sell on a jacket labelled as A but, they said, measured as a B. Which wasn't what I needed to know, really.... Then they started pushing a new leather by denigrating their previous leather by comparison, and I lost interest.

A few years later BK were teasing a big announcement about their new UK owner, but that was then around the time when the guy acting as their public face in these parts (and I believe still running their social media - last I looked, certainly) had rather a terse exchange of views with folks in these parts, and if such an announcement was ever made it was rather lost in the furore. Any of their product I have seen in recent years has been very nicely made, albeit at a retail price that is significantly beyond what I would be comfortable spending. There's clearly a market for it at those prices or they wouldn't be charging them. I just find it a shame that some of their public statements have chosen to talk down the competition rather than sticking to marketing their own stuff.

 

[Edward]

I don't know about that. My theory is that the jackets produced in a low wages country and then shipped to Greece. I have 0 evidence to substantiate this though. I also have 0 evidence that the jackets are actually produced in Greece.

I do know that I'd rather buy my jackets from a real person with a workshop that can be visited, instead of giving my money to an alias.

There's been all sorts of speculation on this. The reality is, though, unless or until the EU finally pushes through a legal labelling obligation requiring country of manufacture to be clearly stated on the garment itself, we only have the word of any online brand's marketing people. After that, it's a question of trust.

 

[tmitchell59]

BK contacted me around 3 years ago. They wanted me to send them a jacket for the archieve line. They would pattern it and produce a jacket for me, sending both back. It was not a good time for me, so I did not take the offer. I recall the jacket was to be shipped to Greece.

I recall that others here have done this archive exchange.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Multipart answers from me.

About the Archive line, I have a jacket from that. Before the current price increase, and with the first time customer discount. It's one of my most bang for the buck jacket period. I think I wrote about it in one of the closed BK threads.

BK fit. According to his size chart I am somewhere between his 42 to 44. I ordered 44 for my archive line jacket and found it still very trim. For comparison I am Aero size 40 to 42, Japanese size 42 to 44. It could just be this Peter's pattern, they were notoriously slim from what I can see.

About where BK makes his jacket. I do not know. But his quality is on par with RMC NZ (Old Joe Mccoy) jackets I have. I have also done some detective work myself. My BK jacket was shipped from a 3rd party mailbox place. The same way TB operates. I don't see anything wrong with this. I have two side businesses that I also use this type of 3rd party mailbox service. I just make sure when my customers googles me the street view image is more impressive than the strip mall shop front.

From google street view:

Now about Andy. I don't consider his customer service skill is his best asset. He was ok with me, but I've seen it here where he wasn't ok with others. Even the most difficult customers are still customers. Take their money and bitch about them in private like all business owners do. To be fair though, he ain't the first guy I've seen on here who has lost his cool, but has probably been singled out more than others.

About BK leathers, I am pretty sure Liberty is just (a version of) Vicenza aka Victoria SRL. I don't know what kind of Badalassi he uses. I do have a Badalassi BK jacket in queue, for a while now, and when I get it I will know what kind of Badalassi he uses. And my best guess his hyped Victory hide is just Maryam. I will probably never find out because I can't find an used one and not gonna pay the hype price for the new one.

I will reserve all my further opinions about BK until I receive my (second) BK badalassi jacket. My first one from the archive line was a very good experience. The very reason I ordered another one. But the second one is taking much longer than the first jacket. Not the longest I've waited, but longer than his 3 to 6 months lead time. To be continued...

My conspiracy theory is that BK poached a few RMZ NZ guys before and after it closed down. And their work are more home based now. And BK works very much like a project manager. He would coordinate to get the leather cut at the pattern guy, then have it sent to the machinist guy, then back to him for final finishing touches. Garment manufacturing doesn't take big machines, just personal skills. Of course there is logistic cost but a lot of first world countries have free trade agreements now, and materials can flow freely without duty, just regular sales tax.

 

[Mark]

I have had three jackets from BK (all shipped to me from Greece) all beautifully made. Sizing was usually a bit off but the biggest issue for me was the wait time and the haphazard communication. The price has also shot through the roof, that with the fact we are out of the EU puts them way beyond me, financially speaking.

 

[Marc mndt]

we only have the word of any online brand's marketing people. After that, it's a question of trust.

Or... They're open and honest and have a production facility we could actually visit, nothing to hide. What is bill Kelso / Andy Falzone / Platon Chaldeos hiding?

https://www.vintageleatherjackets.o...is-platon-any-good-pics-of-his-jackets.23664/

 

[Tom71]

The jackets are shipped from this address in Piraeus. The return address is a postbox in piraeus.

Platon Chaldeos of Mutual Maritime services, a daughter company of a Korean shipbroker company.

View attachment 540482 View attachment 540483 View attachment 540484 View attachment 540485
View attachment 540486

Great piece of work, Marc! Throwback to the days when I was trying to connect a yacht owned by a company from the BVI to a Lebanese businessman. You did way better than I back in the day.

 

[Tom71]

Multipart answers from me.

About the Archive line, I have a jacket from that. Before the current price increase, and with the first time customer discount. It's one of my most bang for the buck jacket period. I think I wrote about it in one of the closed BK threads.
View attachment 540517 View attachment 540518 View attachment 540519

BK fit. According to his size chart I am somewhere between his 42 to 44. I ordered 44 for my archive line jacket and found it still very trim. For comparison I am Aero size 40 to 42, Japanese size 42 to 44. It could just be this Peter's pattern, they were notoriously slim from what I can see.
View attachment 540521
View attachment 540522

About where BK makes his jacket. I do not know. But his quality is on par with RMC NZ (Old Joe Mccoy) jackets I have. I have also done some detective work myself. My BK jacket was shipped from a 3rd party mailbox place. The same way TB operates. I don't see anything wrong with this. I have two side businesses that I also use this type of 3rd party mailbox service. I just make sure when my customers googles me the street view image is more impressive than the strip mall shop front.
View attachment 540526
From google street view:
View attachment 540527

Now about Andy. I don't consider his customer service skill is his best asset. He was ok with me, but I've seen it here where he wasn't ok with others. Even the most difficult customers are still customers. Take their money and bitch about them in private like all business owners do. To be fair though, he ain't the first guy I've seen on here who has lost his cool, but has probably been singled out more than others.

About BK leathers, I am pretty sure Liberty is just (a version of) Vicenza aka Victoria SRL. I don't know what kind of Badalassi he uses. I do have a Badalassi BK jacket in queue, for a while now, and when I get it I will know what kind of Badalassi he uses. And my best guess his hyped Victory hide is just Maryam. I will probably never find out because I can't find an used one and not gonna pay the hype price for the new one.

I will reserve all my further opinions about BK until I receive my (second) BK badalassi jacket. My first one from the archive line was a very good experience. The very reason I ordered another one. But the second one is taking much longer than the first jacket. Not the longest I've waited, but longer than his 3 to 6 months lead time. To be continued...

My conspiracy theory is that BK poached a few RMZ NZ guys before and after it closed down. And their work are more home based now. And BK works very much like a project manager. He would coordinate to get the leather cut at the pattern guy, then have it sent to the machinist guy, then back to him for final finishing touches. Garment manufacturing doesn't take big machines, just personal skills. Of course there is logistic cost but a lot of first world countries have free trade agreements now, and materials can flow freely without duty, just regular sales tax.

Thanks much. Nothing beats first hand experience….

 

[mvilla]

Multipart answers from me.

About the Archive line, I have a jacket from that. Before the current price increase, and with the first time customer discount. It's one of my most bang for the buck jacket period. I think I wrote about it in one of the closed BK threads.
View attachment 540517 View attachment 540518 View attachment 540519

BK fit. According to his size chart I am somewhere between his 42 to 44. I ordered 44 for my archive line jacket and found it still very trim. For comparison I am Aero size 40 to 42, Japanese size 42 to 44. It could just be this Peter's pattern, they were notoriously slim from what I can see.
View attachment 540521
View attachment 540522

About where BK makes his jacket. I do not know. But his quality is on par with RMC NZ (Old Joe Mccoy) jackets I have. I have also done some detective work myself. My BK jacket was shipped from a 3rd party mailbox place. The same way TB operates. I don't see anything wrong with this. I have two side businesses that I also use this type of 3rd party mailbox service. I just make sure when my customers googles me the street view image is more impressive than the strip mall shop front.
View attachment 540526
From google street view:
View attachment 540527

Now about Andy. I don't consider his customer service skill is his best asset. He was ok with me, but I've seen it here where he wasn't ok with others. Even the most difficult customers are still customers. Take their money and bitch about them in private like all business owners do. To be fair though, he ain't the first guy I've seen on here who has lost his cool, but has probably been singled out more than others.

About BK leathers, I am pretty sure Liberty is just (a version of) Vicenza aka Victoria SRL. I don't know what kind of Badalassi he uses. I do have a Badalassi BK jacket in queue, for a while now, and when I get it I will know what kind of Badalassi he uses. And my best guess his hyped Victory hide is just Maryam. I will probably never find out because I can't find an used one and not gonna pay the hype price for the new one.

I will reserve all my further opinions about BK until I receive my (second) BK badalassi jacket. My first one from the archive line was a very good experience. The very reason I ordered another one. But the second one is taking much longer than the first jacket. Not the longest I've waited, but longer than his 3 to 6 months lead time. To be continued...

My conspiracy theory is that BK poached a few RMZ NZ guys before and after it closed down. And their work are more home based now. And BK works very much like a project manager. He would coordinate to get the leather cut at the pattern guy, then have it sent to the machinist guy, then back to him for final finishing touches. Garment manufacturing doesn't take big machines, just personal skills. Of course there is logistic cost but a lot of first world countries have free trade agreements now, and materials can flow freely without duty, just regular sales tax.

Bad zip, though (apparently)

 

[Canuck Panda]

Bad zip, though (apparently)

Horrible Talon zip! The sunrise one. The tape gave out before the creases even started to set in. I‘m not a fan of any kind of Talon repro or NOS for main zip. i had zero luck with them. It’s gotta be Conmar, Crown, old Hookless not Waldes hookless, or just YKK with a repro pull like the Aero Universal. I‘m not sure what zip I’ll be getting on my BK Badalassi leathertog. It’s gonna be interesting for sure.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Ok, well that sure opened the can of worms here didn't it. This was not the intent, just seeing if it was a legitimate site & offer.

I think I'll look elsewhere, and I am not in any rush for more jackets. My current collection is pretty close to ideal, which, in FL speak, is simply impossible.

 

[Edward]

Or... They're open and honest and have a production facility we could actually visit, nothing to hide. What is bill Kelso / Andy Falzone / Platon Chaldeos hiding?

https://www.vintageleatherjackets.o...is-platon-any-good-pics-of-his-jackets.23664/

The confrontational approach the brand has often taken has clearly backfired on them in this regard.

 

[TartuWolf]

I was considering Bill Kelso when I was initially looking for brands/makers for my first proper leather jacket, but ruled BK out pretty quickly. Too many red flags for me.