Best leather for a lifelong jacket?

[zebedee]

Thank you so much, and I definitely appreciate the picture. Badalassi is only cowhide, yes? The fact that I see horse as a more majestic animal has me leaning toward Vicenza, though I do think that the Badalassi looks better. If both are durable, though, I suppose I can't go wrong. Another member said that CXL will degrade and literally crumble over time, so I don't think that's really what I'm looking for.

Vicenza in dark seal is a good hide. It has a drier hand than FQHH but is flexible and slightly more pebbled. The Mariner I have in it looks like goat due to pebbling. It survived being stored in damp conditions for weeks in a Shanghai depot, being sprayed with anti-covid liquid and a cold cycle in the washing machine. No harm done.

I've not seen CXL crumble in any of the jackets I've owned. The top coat will get scaly and crackly, but the topcoat isn't what holds the hide together. I live in high-humidity climates and have also never seen HH get mouldy - but I reckon that for true impenetrability, get goat. Lost Worlds gets good reviews on here, but I find the website accidentally and hilariously camp. I might have bought one if only 'blog queen' as a phrase didn't make me snicker in such an unmanly fashion. LW peacoats are a thing of beauty, though.

 

[Marc mndt]

This 40's Wolf H-B HH seems no worse for the wear after all these years....

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It may be 75 years old but I don't think this jacket has been worn extensively for more than 2-3 years.

 

[Maxwell Von Chesapeake]

Definitely not boxy or uncomfortable! These are adjectives i would use to describe my Aeros...
And the LW horse hide is probable the only leather in my collection i would give a lifetime warranty!

Definitely not boxy or uncomfortable! These are adjectives i would use to describe my Aeros...
And the LW horse hide is probable the only leather in my collection i would give a lifetime warranty!

Whoa. That does look fantastic. You were born to wear that jacket and stare silently at people. I'm seriously intimidated, and based on the trees behind you, you're probably more than a thousand miles away. Totally badass.

 

[Maxwell Von Chesapeake]

Of course, one can argue about the sense and purpose of planning 50 years in advance, but I would think any quality leather will last a very long time with proper care. There are ancient chamois-tanned deerskin trousers that are still in use. I had a pair of submarine leather pants circa WW2 and wore them for motorcycling. The leather was flawless, which could not be said for the foam inserts on the knees.
Goat is certainly very sturdy.

You make a very good point. I'm still using the same belt to keep my pants up that I used in high school.

 

[Maxwell Von Chesapeake]

Hey Mark, I'm not exactly sure what I'm seeing in this picture. Is it the leather cracking, or otherwise having structural issues, or is it the top coat flaking off? The top coat on CXL isn't very thick or robust, so I just thought I'd ask.

[Edit] - Rather than make a new post, I want to comment that I think the OP's question of what the "Best leather for a lifelong jacket" is kind of complex question, now that I think about it. In vintage jackets, the leather that we see surviving examples of might be exhibiting a survivorship bias for leather types that store well, rather than leather types that wear well. I think this is an important distinction, because while goatskin definitely has properties that lend itself to both long term storage and wear, I highly doubt surviving examples of goatskin jackets from the 40s or 30s having been continually used. People in this thread seem to be providing anecdotal evidence of CXL not being a leather type that holds up well to continual wear, which makes sense to me, but I've also seen contrary examples of Horween leathers tending to outlast other leather types because they are "fat stuffed" and don't dry out as readily. So, uh, I guess my point is that the leather should fit the use case. Is this a jacket that you intend to beat the hell out of, or is it going to be used a couple times during the winter, and spend most of its time in storage on a coat rack? Either use case is valid, but it will dictate what leather type is more likely to lend itself to a 'lifelong' jacket.

You make very interesting points, so thanks for taking the time to type it all out. My plan was to wear this jacket pretty much constantly with just a t-shirt and jeans, to the point where it becomes like a second skin.

 

[zebedee]

You make very interesting points, so thanks for taking the time to type it all out. My plan was to wear this jacket pretty much constantly with just a t-shirt and jeans, to the point where it becomes like a second skin.

The trick would be to get it re-stuffed with oils and waxes every ten years and find out if whatever you choose can be re-coated if wear becomes apparent. The Aero goat I have has never needed anything doing to it (typhoons, one earthquake, lots of winter sun and heavy rain) and still looks new.

 

[Maxwell Von Chesapeake]

Gonna piss in the cheerios a bit. I can only think of one member who pulled off “the one” jacket. He left TFL and I think that’s the only way it’s possible. I’m not sure how much you’ve researched those jackets but for me they have a bit of limited mobility. That would make them fine in a collection but less practical as an only. Lastly, i bought a forever jacket. Then i found out that nature changes your body shape as you age. Now it’s in the classifieds.

Haha, I hear you. But won't committing to a jacket force me to stay in better shape as I age? That said, I do own a waxed canvas jacket (the same color and style that Bond wears in "No Time to Die") that I picked up from eBay for less than a hundred bucks, plus an unlined Schott/Restoration Hardware collab that I snagged from eBay for $299. So this won't be my ONLY jacket, but it will be the one that I want and expect to still be with me at the end. Also, you say "piss in the Cheerios" like it's a bad thing. Piss is good for you, and will help a jacket to fit you longer than Cheerios with milk.

 

[dannyk]

The trick would be to get it re-stuffed with oils and waxes every ten years and find out if whatever you choose can be re-coated if wear becomes apparent. The Aero goat I have has never needed anything doing to it (typhoons, one earthquake, lots of winter sun and heavy rain) and still looks new.

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Yup! Your pictures and words are much better than my no pictures and short descriptor but yeah goat! If someone really wants something that pound for pound is strong as hell and almost doesn’t age and will hold its shape and looks new the longest it’s gotta be goat. Now there’s crappy goat out there or depending on what kind of tanning or what top coats or oils blah blah you can have weak goat or goat that ages. But in general goat will look new the longest.

 

[zebedee]

Yup! Your pictures and words are much better than my no pictures and short descriptor but goat. If someone really wants something that pound for pound is strong as hell and almost doesn’t age and will hold its shape and looks the longest it’s gotta be goat. Now there’s crappy goat out there or depending on what kind of tanning or what top coats or oils blah blah you can have weak goat or goat that ages. But in general goat will look new the longest.

Aero's goat has a better hand; Simmons Bilt's is thicker and harder. It's like a tank. I think that SB's would be more durable (marginally and if the test was being dragged over tarmac), but Aero goat is more wearable sooner. I passed my SB on to a buddy.

 

[Damon141]

There was a Himel Kensinton that allegedly survived a crash. Leather had small ripped holes from the skid but the seams held up. I tried to find the photo for you but there were just too many now. He should have kept it on the Kensinton page.

Thinner material doesn't mean it's useless. My denim jackets are about 0.6mm to 0.8mm, still better than just a T-shirt.

As long as the leather still have its top grain intact it will do just fine.

Take this with a grain of salt because the Himel Kensington was the only expensive handmade jacket I’ve had in my possession. I know you have a lot so you can see the differences.

The Kensington I had for a brief time felt well made, thin but tough, you know it’s just leather with a cotton liner, very simple and different than holding a regular motorcycle jacket with quilted padding, it felt lightweight but precious at the same time. I could never say how it will last but he prides himself on old school manufacturing down to the original thread and equipment so there is no reason it shouldn’t last.


There is another shot of this one on instagram it shows the hole in the elbow. Whoever owned this jacket said $2,650! **** it, I’m going to get my money’s worth. BUt most people who spend this kind of money are going to think twice about the kind of things we do to a Schott we bought for $700 and throw in the washer on heavy with a half a bottle of Tide.

 

[AeroFan_07]

For the OP: I am re-thinking my original suggestion. You live in Southern California. So I would suggest something lighter than CXL FQHH or a Lost Worlds jacket of any type. I would suggest a lighter weight tumbled hide or Vicenza if you go Aero.

 

[f2002q]

Definitely not boxy or uncomfortable! These are adjectives i would use to describe my Aeros...
And the LW horse hide is probable the only leather in my collection i would give a lifetime warranty!

Wow, those look like bullet-proof vests! That Appalachian looks even better when modeled that on the website.

 

[yellowfever]

It’s an interesting question and thread to speculate on.

I’d vote Vanson competition hide for lovely age worthy leather with real world indestructability, great patterns that allow good movement and lots of choice of styles. Better yet skip the (long) break-in and save more money by buying second hand and as a bonus get the revered old school competition hide that’s considered the best and even with some years already under its belt the jacket will still comfortably outlast you. All you need do is wipe it down with tepid water followed by a cost or two of Vanson leather balm each year and you’re done. And vanson offer a repair and refurb service if it ever needed it (only likely if you fall off a motorbike at high speed, or maybe to replace the - generally reliable and long lasting - chunky vanson branded YKK zip after a decade or two of regular wear).

Of course, as some have already said, the question about the leather durability is fun but may in practice be moot. It’s far more likely in the real world that you’ll change size over your lifetime and the jacket will no longer fit you, long before the leather might wear out. Or even if it still fits, your personal style may evolve so the jacket no longer fits your preferred ‘look’ (Shame on you if you do! )

On both these counts Vanson would still look to be a good choice. It’s got classic not fashion style, so it’s look is timeless and some models also have some waist adjustability (designed to allow layering whilst maintaining a close secure fit for motorbike riding), so it still may fit you if you gain (just) a few pounds.

Anyway choose something you like now, without worrying about leather longevity. Then come back to this thread in ten years to laugh at yourself and wonder why you now own 50 jackets whilst living in a hot climate… (pro tip - it’s all TFL’s fault).

 

[Canuck Panda]

It’s far more likely in the real world that you’ll change size over your lifetime and the jacket will no longer fit you, long before the leather might wear out.

^^^this and every other uncertainty in life.

Anyway choose something you like now, without worrying about leather longevity

^^^Thumbs up!

 

[MrProper]

It’s far more likely in the real world that you’ll change size over your lifetime and the jacket will no longer fit you

It has been prophesied to me for 30 years, but I can't confirm it like that. And I hope it remains so LOL

 

[yellowfever]

It has been prophesied to me for 30 years, but I can't confirm it like that. And I hope it remains so LOL

I wish you continued good fortune! I confess I’m one of the lucky one too. I still fit perfectly in my black tie dinner suit I got for my 21st birthday. I’d like to claim that it’s all down to a careful diet and a rigorous exercise programme, but in my case I think it’s mostly just random genetic good luck (my Dads stayed pretty much the same weight throughout his adult life too). My formerly lustrous hair, on the other hand, was not so lucky… you win some, you lose some…

 

[Damon141]

It has been prophesied to me for 30 years, but I can't confirm it like that. And I hope it remains so LOL

Just keep doing those 1,000 pull-ups and you will be 100 years young wearing your collection.

How many can you do in your first set?
Well rested

 

[MrProper]

Just keep doing those 1,000 pull-ups and you will be 100 years young wearing your collection.

How many can you do in your first set?
Well rested

I haven't tried it in a while, but it used to be 16. However, I'm never well rested because I do try to do something every day.
At the fire department here, applicants have to take a fitness test. One exercise is to hang on the pull-up bar for 45 seconds, chin over the bar. I tried it (and made it, even though I did my session at noon) and it was surprisingly strenuous. It's all a matter of practice, of course, but I thought it was easier to keep my 90 kg up there.

 

[Damon141]

I’ve never been good at pull ups, I’ve had friends do 25-30 full pull ups in the first set but I think the most I’ve been able to do in the first is 13-14 but they were not clean at the end.

But then when I was lifting weights heavy I was able to do bent over rows with 315lbs for a set of 6-8 repetitions. Both use lats but I guess the secondary muscles used in rows suits me better. I’ve always dreamed of doing sets of 20. When I get a new house I’m going to get one of those pull up stations and try some things I read online to boost pull up strength because the older I get the kore I feel calisthenics are important than lifting heavy. Longevity for the body.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Not to derail us too far here but regarding this...

I’ve never been good at pull ups, I’ve had friends do 25-30 full pull ups in the first set but I think the most I’ve been able to do in the first is 13-14 but they were not clean at the end.

But then when I was lifting weights heavy I was able to do bent over rows with 315lbs for a set of 6-8 repetitions. Both use lats but I guess the secondary muscles used in rows suits me better. I’ve always dreamed of doing sets of 20. When I get a new house I’m going to get one of those pull up stations and try some things I read online to boost pull up strength because the older I get the kore I feel calisthenics are important than lifting heavy. Longevity for the body.

Why wait for a new house? Can you say...

Y - M - C - A ??

I'm there every day and ours has great resources for all these types of activites, as well as weightlifitng. Not to mention a good trainer as an option too... Your local one may vary, or course.

Now - back to the thread...