Best leather for a lifelong jacket?

[Bfd70]

Gonna piss in the cheerios a bit. I can only think of one member who pulled off “the one” jacket. He left TFL and I think that’s the only way it’s possible. I’m not sure how much you’ve researched those jackets but for me they have a bit of limited mobility. That would make them fine in a collection but less practical as an only. Lastly, i bought a forever jacket. Then i found out that nature changes your body shape as you age. Now it’s in the classifieds.

 

[handymike]

Why not take a look at Dave Sheeley’s offerings? He makes incredible looking custom tailored jackets with beautiful leathers that will last a very long time. He is also in the US.

I also think that Thedi would be a great choice for your build. He offers a variety of stunning hides, and a great looking slim-fit.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Carlos mirrored my thoughts on Lost Worlds here - not boxy or uncomfortable, but the leather is a little less "interesting" than others. 4+ oz Horse Hide might be a bit much, try is 3.5 oz Horse hide.

Definitely not boxy or uncomfortable! These are adjectives i would use to describe my Aeros...
And the LW horse hide is probable the only leather in my collection i would give a lifetime warranty!

 

[Carlos840]

Carlos mirrored my thoughts on Lost Worlds here - not boxy or uncomfortable, but the leather is a little less "interesting" than others. 4+ oz Horse Hide might be a bit much, try is 3.5 oz Horse hide.

I'm not sure calling it "less interresting" is fair...
Sure it is different, it won't gain patina, but it will show grain like few others do.

For example, most TFL users would agree that Dav's highwayman is the most broken in Aero on TFL, and probably the best example of patina on CXL:

Even though this jacket has been through more than most of us would ever inflict on a jacket it is still pretty smooth and grainless.

On the other hand, this LW looks like crocodile skin after 2/3 years of wear:

Personally i find the LW hide more "interresting", i personally prefer grain than patina, and i think it looks "cleaner".
If i had to pick one i would pick the LW HH without hesitation.

 

[El Marro]

The Hooch Hauler and Ridley are both rather trim jackets and so I think there is a greater chance that you may outgrow the jacket over the next 46 years before you ever get to wearing out the leather. If you really mean to wear this jacket for decades to come I would consider a style with a little more room built into it.
I would stay away from CXL for all of the reasons mentioned above and also because I do not enjoy wearing it and I especially would not like it in a trim fitting jacket.
I do not have any experience with Aero’s goat but goatskin in general is one of the easiest hides to wear and it also seems to hold up quite well over time.

 

[AeroFan_07]

That's a good point Carlos. My J23 has a little crocidile skin going on currently. But it is very comfortable to wear, is not ever in the way and has a brilliant pattern. It does not have the really nice smell of the CXL, it's just different. It is a canvas for the owner to make it into thier own unique creation, and being a "lifer" jacket it won't develop quite as quickly. Which I was indicating may be a benefit to the OP here.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Here's my fav and It ain't Aero hide but I love Thedi's finish which seems tough and long lasting as they come.

Click to enlarge....

 

[Canuck Panda]

Thank you so much, and I definitely appreciate the picture. Badalassi is only cowhide, yes? The fact that I see horse as a more majestic animal has me leaning toward Vicenza, though I do think that the Badalassi looks better. If both are durable, though, I suppose I can't go wrong. Another member said that CXL will degrade and literally crumble over time, so I don't think that's really what I'm looking for.

Badalassi is only done in cowhide, no horsehide. It's squeaky, that's why seeing sample helps.

CXL is THE STRONGEST period. It will not break down. Not just the strongest out of these three options but one of the strongest leather period. The problem is that it takes time to warm up to wear comfortably. The leather was not originally intended for garment but for boots and bags. And Natural CXL is not the best example of CXL either. It is the only CXL leather that doesn't have the CXL shine.

As with every Aero jackets I have, the zipper will need repair first, then the lining, but never the leather.

 

[TheDonEffect]

I think TFL is an interesting vacuum since alot here won't keep a jacket over the course of a lifetime. That said, I think this is a subject that can be easily over thought. Consider how many people buy a stock leather Schott, or Vanson, etc, and they've held up.

Of those three, I'd have to say CXL, but admittedly I don't have experience with the other two. Hopefully others can chime in with experiences of getting those wet.

 

[Damon141]

I think TFL is an interesting vacuum since alot here won't keep a jacket over the course of a lifetime. That said, I think this is a subject that can be easily over thought. Consider how many people buy a stock leather Schott, or Vanson, etc, and they've held up.

Of those three, I'd have to say CXL, but admittedly I don't have experience with the other two. Hopefully others can chime in with experiences of getting those wet.

Schott makes some durable jackets, Just look at the ones from the 60’s-70’s for sale. I can’t vouch for every model or leather but the cowhide jackets I have had took anything off could throw at it. I can’t compare the durability of chrome tanned versus vegetable tanned but the drum dyed Schott jackets I owned have been rained on, snowed on, covered in bugs, especially love bugs, road tar/grime and I’ve had no problem washing them with detergent in a washing machine then letting them air dry at room temperature.

Sometimes it would change the shape temporarily but from here I learned that if you wear it wet for several hours till it starts to dry and mold to your body then let it air dry.

I wonder if the Shinki jackets with the skived edges, tight close stitching will hold up to the same abuse but I’m going to find out soon. I know we have some riders on here but being the way this forum is, the riders usually have huge awesome collections so with the variety of choices will make it harder to put serious wear on a single jacket.

 

[Marc mndt]

CXL is THE STRONGEST period. It will not break down. Not just the strongest out of these three options but one of the strongest leather period.

Can you substantiate your claim?

 

[Canuck Panda]

Can you substantiate your claim?

It's just my personal opinion.

 

[TheDonEffect]

Schott makes some durable jackets, Just look at the ones from the 60’s-70’s for sale. I can’t vouch for every model or leather but the cowhide jackets I have had took anything off could throw at it. I can’t compare the durability of chrome tanned versus vegetable tanned but the drum dyed Schott jackets I owned have been rained on, snowed on, covered in bugs, especially love bugs, road tar/grime and I’ve had no problem washing them with detergent in a washing machine then letting them air dry at room temperature.

Sometimes it would change the shape temporarily but from here I learned that if you wear it wet for several hours till it starts to dry and mold to your body then let it air dry.

I wonder if the Shinki jackets with the skived edges, tight close stitching will hold up to the same abuse but I’m going to find out soon. I know we have some riders on here but being the way this forum is, the riders usually have huge awesome collections so with the variety of choices will make it harder to put serious wear on a single jacket.

It's funny because I was going to say that I met several riders who had their jackets since the 60s and 70s, and been through the ringer, and they've held up great. Drum dyed, ubiquitous black leather from any of the tried and true brands like Schott and Vanson, will outlast anything you can throw at it.

I am skeptical, even of CXL, on how they hold up in the harsher elements. I've seen enough veg/chrome tanned stuff run in the rain or change size or shape.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Shinki jackets with the skived edges, tight close stitching will hold up to the same abuse

There was a Himel Kensinton that allegedly survived a crash. Leather had small ripped holes from the skid but the seams held up. I tried to find the photo for you but there were just too many now. He should have kept it on the Kensinton page.

Thinner material doesn't mean it's useless. My denim jackets are about 0.6mm to 0.8mm, still better than just a T-shirt.

As long as the leather still have its top grain intact it will do just fine.

 

[morrison2951]

This 40's Wolf H-B HH seems no worse for the wear after all these years....

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

I'm sure that this question has been asked before, but I can't find the thread. Besides, I get a certain satisfaction from ruffling the feathers of those who would say, "THIS QUESTION HAS ALREADY BEEN ASKED X NUMBER OF TIMES, IDIOT!"

That question is this:

I'm on the verge of purchasing a new Aero from Thurston. Either a Ridley or Hooch Hauler. Whichever style I go with, I plan to wear it until my dying day, which by current actuarial tables, should be somewhere in the vicinity of 2068. With that in mind, which leather will be the most durable/resilient until then? I'm guessing that the majority will say Chromexcel, but I'm torn between ordering Natural Chromexcel, Dark Seal Vicenza, and Tobacco Badalassi. I live in Los Angeles, but do enjoy traveling to places that aren't as consistently pleasant weather-wise. I don't want to ever have to think to myself, "Oooooh, my leather jacket can't handle rain/snow/sleet/meteorites." I want a jacket that isn't a little bitch, because I certainly have no plans to baby it.

Anyway, any and all thoughts would be appreciated, even from those who hate that this thread exists (and I've been around long enough to know there's at least one of you out there).


Thanks,

Max Von Chesapeake

So, I think I can give you pretty good advice here as a fellow Los Angelino, owner of a Ridley, and owner of some of those leathers.

First of all, I'm nuts. Like having 3 shearling jackets and getting a lot of wears from them LOL. I live in Woodland Hills/Calabasas area, and you probably know what that means. 110F in the summer is very typical. But our nights and early morning are pretty chilly.

Ridley, imo, is best jacket Aero offers. They nailed the pattern. I currently own blackened brown vic and previously owned natural CXL. Both amazing. The Vic is more practical for Los Angeles weather/style/life. That being said, Vic leather has the most variance I've seen. Mr. Propers Ridley has a warm black look with brown peeking through all over with not a lot of wears. Mine has had 3 or 4 owners who wore the heck out of it, and I barely see any brown except on scuffed edges. I've seen some pretty smooth and no grain, and I've seen others with nice grain pattern.

I haven't tried or seen in person Badalassi yet, except for some boots I have. That looks real deal as well.

CXL is love hate. I've had 5 or 6 and each has been completely different. Some are grainier, some are stiffer, some have better color evolution. Going forward, I would only do some sort of variation of CXL like Lux. I'm keeping one FQHH purely for the evolution. Will be one of those Instagram type jackets after 10 years of wear LOL. All things considered, for the long haul, this isn't a bad choice. But, if you're the type of person who touches their sleeve and wants it to feel soft, luxurious, etc. not for you. Bottom line, looks really cool, but doesn't feel or wear cool.

I know you're going to get flooded with recommendations, but here's a few more to really complicate things LOL

Lewis Leather. Pick your favorite style. Sheepskin is perfect for Los Angeles. The veg tanned stuff looks amazing too if you want something more durable.

Schott. There's plenty on ebay that are 40 plus years old and still look pretty darn good. Their usual leather offerings are pretty basic, but they do a lot of collab stuff (3 Sixteen for instance) and occasional special release. Their "usual" 100 series leather is great for Los Angeles assuming you're not motorcycle riding. And the 613sh leather is really really nice. You can go to shop on LaBrea and try them all on.

Field Leather and RMC Shinki are perfect for Los Angeles as well. Mid weight, really elegant.

 

[zebedee]

Aero's goat hide. Light(ish) and tough. Their horsehide is also extremely durable, but the topcoat will wear off (supposed to).

Goat:

 

[zebedee]

And HH after 10 years. I've worn this Highwayman constantly. The topcoat has faded, the collar particularly, and the zipper tape needed a fix with sail tape two years ago, but the jacket is structurally fine, leather-wise. Snow, tropical humidity, relentless rain, broken glass, bar stool scrape, etc., and it's still good.

 

[MrProper]

FQHH after a good 10 years. However, I have not worn them in between times for quite a while.

 

[zebedee]

I hasten to add that I've only owned horse, goat and steer Aeros in the last 12 years, apart from one Simmons Bilt goat jacket. I don't have experience with Himel, Vanson, Langlitz, etc., so they might be better. On the other hand, I've never needed to replace an Aero for structural problems with hide or stitching. In the same way that there might be better shoes or boots than Loakes or William Lennon at higher prices, others would know more than me, but I've reached the happy price-and-reliability zone.