Best leather for a lifelong jacket?

[Maxwell Von Chesapeake]

I'm sure that this question has been asked before, but I can't find the thread. Besides, I get a certain satisfaction from ruffling the feathers of those who would say, "THIS QUESTION HAS ALREADY BEEN ASKED X NUMBER OF TIMES, IDIOT!"

That question is this:

I'm on the verge of purchasing a new Aero from Thurston. Either a Ridley or Hooch Hauler. Whichever style I go with, I plan to wear it until my dying day, which by current actuarial tables, should be somewhere in the vicinity of 2068. With that in mind, which leather will be the most durable/resilient until then? I'm guessing that the majority will say Chromexcel, but I'm torn between ordering Natural Chromexcel, Dark Seal Vicenza, and Tobacco Badalassi. I live in Los Angeles, but do enjoy traveling to places that aren't as consistently pleasant weather-wise. I don't want to ever have to think to myself, "Oooooh, my leather jacket can't handle rain/snow/sleet/meteorites." I want a jacket that isn't a little bitch, because I certainly have no plans to baby it.

Anyway, any and all thoughts would be appreciated, even from those who hate that this thread exists (and I've been around long enough to know there's at least one of you out there).


Thanks,

Max Von Chesapeake

 

[Canuck Panda]

Seal Vicenza / Tobacco Badalassi / Natural CXL FQHH

All three will last you till the end of days. No maintenance needed.
The difference is only in leather softness and hand feel. Natural CXL is not like the other CXL, it is matte.
Aeros Badalassi is very squeaky, CXL needs some warm up time and is about the same weight as the Badalassi in pounds, Vicenzas may be stiff depending on batch. Ask for samples.

 

[Marc mndt]

I'm guessing that the majority will say Chromexcel

Why do you think so? CXL isn't that great in terms of longevity imo. At some point in time it just crumples apart.

Judging by vintage jackets which have survived best, I'd say pigment dyed chrome tanned goatskin would be your best option.

 

[handymike]

I think the natural CXL is beautiful looking over time, but in the styles you mention I’d go for Badalassi.

 

[AeroFan_07]

So I guess on this lounge, I do not see people keeping jackets for life very often. I certainly have not exampled this myself, although I have slowed way down and am holding onto the 4-5 jackets I own for a longer term.

CXL FQHH is a fast-break-in, rapid degradation leather. My 2 year old Indian Ranger is a good example of this. It is very comfortable now and I believe it will last ~ 10-15 years more, however it will always look like an older jacket and may eventually "fail" at some point due to the leather itself breaking down. It can always be repaired. So this is likely not a big worry.

For me, CX Steerhide is a great choice. It may be a little slower to break-in, but the graining it develops is tremendous. If you are really serious about a lifetime jacket, have you considered a Lost Worlds? Those would certainly last a lifetime, or two, and while it's a much stiffer and more utilitarian leather, it will develop a lot of character over the next 20-40 years. That would likely be my choice, personally.

 

[jglf]

Goatskin

 

[Maxwell Von Chesapeake]

Seal Vicenza / Tobacco Badalassi / Natural CXL FQHH
View attachment 429819
All three will last you till the end of days. No maintenance needed.
The difference is only in leather softness and hand feel. Natural CXL is not like the other CXL, it is matte.
Aeros Badalassi is very squeaky, CXL needs some warm up time and is about the same weight as the Badalassi in pounds, Vicenzas may be stiff depending on batch. Ask for samples.

Thank you so much, and I definitely appreciate the picture. Badalassi is only cowhide, yes? The fact that I see horse as a more majestic animal has me leaning toward Vicenza, though I do think that the Badalassi looks better. If both are durable, though, I suppose I can't go wrong. Another member said that CXL will degrade and literally crumble over time, so I don't think that's really what I'm looking for.

 

[Maxwell Von Chesapeake]

Why do you think so? CXL isn't that great in terms of longevity imo. At some point in time it just crumples apart.

Judging by vintage jackets which have survived best, I'd say pigment dyed chrome tanned goatskin would be your best option.

That's very interesting. I didn't know that about CXL. I do like goatskin, though, and will definitely be asking Thurston for a sample of it.

 

[Maxwell Von Chesapeake]

So I guess on this lounge, I do not see people keeping jackets for life very often. I certainly have not exampled this myself, although I have slowed way down and am holding onto the 4-5 jackets I own for a longer term.

CXL FQHH is a fast-break-in, rapid degradation leather. My 2 year old Indian Ranger is a good example of this. It is very comfortable now and I believe it will last ~ 10-15 years more, however it will always look like an older jacket and may eventually "fail" at some point due to the leather itself breaking down. It can always be repaired. So this is likely not a big worry.

For me, CX Steerhide is a great choice. It may be a little slower to break-in, but the graining it develops is tremendous. If you are really serious about a lifetime jacket, have you considered a Lost Worlds? Those would certainly last a lifetime, or two, and while it's a much stiffer and more utilitarian leather, it will develop a lot of character over the next 20-40 years. That would likely be my choice, personally.

I searched the Lost Worlds website tonight after reading your reply, so thank you for the tip. I'm afraid their jackets just look boxy and uncomfortable, though, and I can't really say that I'm a fan of their styles. They definitely look good for biking, though.

 

[JurassicUtility]

No experience with Badalassi, but I currently own an Aero black FQHH chromexcel jacket, and I sold an Aero Seal Vicenza jacket a while back. The chromexcel fits well, but the jacket is oddly heavy and warm, and like others have commented, takes a little while to 'warm up' and become flexible. I liked the feel and weight of the Vicenza leather more than chromexcel, but the fit on the Vicenza jacket was poor, so I sold it. I feel Vicenza is a more breathable and versatile leather between the two, so that would be my choice if I was getting a new/custom jacket from Aero.

 

[Carlos840]

I searched the Lost Worlds website tonight after reading your reply, so thank you for the tip. I'm afraid their jackets just look boxy and uncomfortable, though, and I can't really say that I'm a fan of their styles. They definitely look good for biking, though.

Definitely not boxy or uncomfortable! These are adjectives i would use to describe my Aeros...
And the LW horse hide is probable the only leather in my collection i would give a lifetime warranty!

 

[MrProper]

Of course, one can argue about the sense and purpose of planning 50 years in advance, but I would think any quality leather will last a very long time with proper care. There are ancient chamois-tanned deerskin trousers that are still in use. I had a pair of submarine leather pants circa WW2 and wore them for motorcycling. The leather was flawless, which could not be said for the foam inserts on the knees.
Goat is certainly very sturdy.

 

[Marc mndt]

That's very interesting. I didn't know that about CXL. I do like goatskin, though, and will definitely be asking Thurston for a sample of it.

This is one of Aero's first CXL jackets if I'm not mistaken, +/- 20 years old.

It started to crumple at high friction points. Conditioner didn't fix it.

 

[JurassicUtility]

This is one of Aero's first CXL jackets if I'm not mistaken, +/- 20 years old.

It started to crumple at high friction points. Conditioner didn't fix it.

View attachment 429839

Hey Mark, I'm not exactly sure what I'm seeing in this picture. Is it the leather cracking, or otherwise having structural issues, or is it the top coat flaking off? The top coat on CXL isn't very thick or robust, so I just thought I'd ask.

[Edit] - Rather than make a new post, I want to comment that I think the OP's question of what the "Best leather for a lifelong jacket" is kind of complex question, now that I think about it. In vintage jackets, the leather that we see surviving examples of might be exhibiting a survivorship bias for leather types that store well, rather than leather types that wear well. I think this is an important distinction, because while goatskin definitely has properties that lend itself to both long term storage and wear, I highly doubt surviving examples of goatskin jackets from the 40s or 30s having been continually used. People in this thread seem to be providing anecdotal evidence of CXL not being a leather type that holds up well to continual wear, which makes sense to me, but I've also seen contrary examples of Horween leathers tending to outlast other leather types because they are "fat stuffed" and don't dry out as readily. So, uh, I guess my point is that the leather should fit the use case. Is this a jacket that you intend to beat the hell out of, or is it going to be used a couple times during the winter, and spend most of its time in storage on a coat rack? Either use case is valid, but it will dictate what leather type is more likely to lend itself to a 'lifelong' jacket.

 

[Marc mndt]

Is it the leather cracking, or otherwise having structural issues, or is it the top coat flaking off? The top coat on CXL isn't very thick or robust, so I just though I'd ask.

Here's a pic of CXL topcoat flaking off. That's not what was going on with my jacket.

It was similar to cracked leather as sometimes seen on collars where they touch the neck. Yet in this case it was spread across the sleeves.

 

[Monitor]

Get Lost Worlds or Vanson or Langlitz. Or Cal.

I don't understand why y'all from the States even look at European made jackets.
Aero's Horween CXL ages prematurely and is known to be prone to climate caused degradation & Italian hides are very nice but might not handle elements to an extent you seem to be hoping for... Some will, for sure, but some won't. Dunno what to tell you.

It's no secret I'd rather burn my money than deal with Lost Worlds ever again but if you want a jacket that truly will last a lifetime & look good while at it (like seriously good, I'm talking Tom Cruise in Top Gun 2 good), Stu's your best bet.

If either Langlitz or Cal are a bit too biker for you, there's Vanson, too. Lifetime guarantee, tough as nails, well made, good-to-perfect pattern, depends on the style.

So you've got four makers right at your doorstep, so to speak, that are guaranteed to get you the jacket you're describing.

--

Although, I'm not sure why would you want to deliberately over-expose your leather jacket to the elements as it has been well established by now that since it get soaked same as cotton, leather is far from being your best choice for foul weather & that you indeed need to take care of your leather garmets if you want them to look good & stay healthy?

Wear your leather jacket when you want to look good, same as all those people in the black and white photos and wear a plastic rain coat when it's raining.

 

[dannyk]

I mean it doesn’t sound like it’s really an option for you currently; but to be honest goat is a hide that is for its weight and thickness is incredibly durable, holds it shape incredibly well, and looks new almost for forever.

 

[ton312]

I think Aero's jerky horse is probably one of the toughest leathers in their stable. It's flexible and soft, lightweight but seems practically waterproof and scratch proof.

 

[Marc mndt]

I'm talking Tom Cruise in Top Gun 2 good

So you're saying this looks good? Lol

PS It's for sale if you're interested

 

[Monitor]

So you're saying this looks good? Lol

PS It's for sale if you're interested

View attachment 429867

Lol, not the jacket; I meant the man himself. He looks like the second movie takes place 2 years since the first one which is honestly how I want my jackets to age...