Best bowler in London?

[M Tatterscratch]

When did bowlers go from being hardhats to being softer?

I've been given to understand that they began as hard-topped hats for gamekeepers that would resist impact such as tree branches or, ohhh, a poacher's club. Any idea when they stopped being strictly hardtop, anyone?

T.

 

[Matt Deckard]

They didn't become soft though they did become thin and light by some makers. If you have a soft bowler you might want to put a center crease in the crown and call it a homburg.

It became fashion when people thought Gamekeepers were cool. Probably turn of the century when you see top hats leaving vogue.

Check out Hatless Jack... a very good read.

 

[M Tatterscratch]

The old Lock

Your Lock is similar to my Mallory in brim shape and width, but your Lock's crown is higher. What year are those two hats?

You look positively glum in the Dobbs photo, Sir - Like Keaton having stolen Chaplin's hat.

T.

 

[Matt Deckard]

I do get the Old Stoneface remarks often.

1920s and 1930s respectively... though that is a guess from a lot of looking at photos and construction.

I also have a few from the 40's and a 1950's brown version.

 

[M Tatterscratch]

If you have a soft bowler you might want to put a center crease in the crown and call it a homburg.

Check out Hatless Jack... a very good read.

Heyheyhey! Don't you go spreadin' talk that I have a soft bowler! lol

My Mallory is hard-top, but I've handled bowlers that are really like half a coconut - You could stop a bullet.

"Hatless Jack" - Got it in the old Amazon launch tube for when I hit the States...

T.

 

[M Tatterscratch]

I also have a few from the 40's and a 1950's brown version.

Ack! I've been waiting and waiting for a proper brown derby! Are they mushy or properly staunch?

T.

 

[Matt Deckard]

Very proper. I think when they went out of style companies fell back to making them the original way... tough and a turtle's shell.

 

[londonboy]

Has anyone here handled a modern Lock bowler?

 

[indycop]

I do get the Old Stoneface remarks often.

Don't feel alone!

 

[Marty M.]

More then handled.

Has anyone here handled a modern Lock bowler?

I actually sell them in my store. Well, let me rephrase that, I carry them in my store. Not many guys in Minneapolis are wearing/asking for Bowlers. The Bowler from Lock is made very well. I'm not big on the fact that if you have a slim face, the Lock Bowler overtakes you. The crown is very fat. I also carry their Homburg. The quality is there, but the shape is again to large. Everybody that I've tried it on got swallowed up.
I agree with the Baron, the soft styles of Lock and I'll add Christy's are over priced. You're better off with another maker (probably from the States). And this coming from a guy who sells both of those companies.
Marty Mathis

 

[londonboy]

Marty, thanks for that feedback as I was pleased to have handled the Lock bowler in the actual store. Would you say that the furry finish makes it somewhat unique, or do other bowlers have this? Would you thus recommend the Lock bowler for someone with a wider face? Finally, how would you describe the brim? I don't recall and should take another look when I can, but does it have the curl being discussed here?

 

[Topper]

Ho humm,

As I'm not in London, I suppose its excludes me from mentioning my services.

Locks and Bates -I merely decline to comment, as they are competitors. Thus if you wish to know about their product then best to ask them.

"Christys'" hats I have as my standard bowler. It has a stiffened hard shell like a lot of British Bowlers, rather than the softer American Derbys ( Plus we dont have an feather to stick in it! lol ). The Harder felt is moreso a hang over over for the additional waterproofing in our rainy weather! A lot of the Bowlers overseas I have seen are more soft felt. That being said. I also can provide the "Olney" which has a brim that is more flattened ( though can always recurl it) and the felt is softer and is not as rigid as the Christys. The other main difference is that the Christys's use an off-set, blind-stitched binding on the brim, which I personally prefer.

Christys comes in Wool ( black grey or brown colours) or Fur felt ( black only, though it is sometimes possible to get a grey fur felt on special request - Steed look out!) The fur felt also has a "Devon" style which differes by having a inner padded lining (called a "hunting pad") instead of a standard sweatband, which makes the Devon more confortable.

--

Historically Bowlers came of many shapes, styles and variations. Such as the Cambridge bowler worn by Sir Winston Churchill ( I have actually had the priviledge of giving his hat a clean!) which he called his "Bowker". His one in the Museum was a "summer" felt as such was not hardened with stiffiner, and did not have a lining inside.

Apart from Summer felts there is the traditional "Gossamer " Shellacked shell bowler. This would be in the region of £400 or $800 - One would need these hand made to your specs, whilst not approved for "riding" health & safter e.t.c. It was the type used for many decades as a riding hat. The gossamer shell providing all the protection.

Pip-pip

Topper

 

[londonboy]

Topper, what is the curl of your bowlers like?

 

[Topper]

The Olney is a flatish brim, with uniform curl edge more similar to pencil curl.

The Christys brim is tightly curled into itself in classic style.The edge is a "flatened" binding curl rather than very rounded. Similar to the top hat finish.

 

[londonboy]

Which is closer to the curl Dinerman and Matt described?

 

[Mid-fogey]

Thanks for all...

...the great posts. This place remains an education. I wish bowlers were a bit less "costumey". When you think about it, with their smaller profile, they are really a great choice for a modern world. I am constantly bonking the back of my fedora brim on headrests.

 

[Topper]

Which is closer to the curl Dinerman and Matt described?

Closest due to the stiffeneing on the brim edge would be the Christys'

 

[londonboy]

I took another look at the Lock bowler. The felt does not feel completely impressive, but it is given its own page in Roetzel's book. I was informed they could reshape the brim slightly to suit my tastes. I'm seriously thinking of just going for a Lock bowler. (I purchased a second cashmere gill. The pattern matching on these is quite satisfying.)

If you would consider wearing a bowler, would grey be as appealing as black?

 

[Fu Manchu]

Bowler Repair

I bought a beautiful old Christys' bowler on OFAS a few weeks ago. Unfortunately, the ribbon 'round the edge was slightly damaged in shipping :eusa_doh: . Any idea how much it would cost to replace it?

 

[Graemsay]

Patey's Hats (in London) are possibly the last company still making traditional bowler hats:

http://www.pateyhats.com/?cat=11

They can do custom work, but I believe that they stick to top hats, bowlers, peaked caps and equestian hats. So if you fancy that pleated ribbon...

The price is around 400 pounds, so two to three times the cost of a Christy, or similar.