Bespoke Leather Jacket (A Series of Articles)

[ykurtz]

Thought this might interest some of the leather jacket aficionados on the forum. A natural evolution of RTW to 'made to measure' leather jackets would be 'bespoke.' I'm not aware of many bespoke leather jacket makers out there; but this may stimulate research for those who are interested.

http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2013/07/the-bespoke-leather-jacket-part-1.html#.Uv7RJMOPLrc

 

[handymike]

Wait a minute....
Aren't we all Bespoke leather jacket afficienados around here?
Goodwear
Aero
Johnson Leathers
Alexander Leathers
All of the above make jackets to measure...
Members like Rudie and Jan Solo have completely changed patterns into new unique creations..
Look in the archives....;-)
An interesting project, but one that many here have already taken....

 

[ykurtz]

Wait a minute....
Aren't we all Bespoke leather jacket afficienados around here?
Goodwear
Aero
Johnson Leathers
Alexander Leathers
All of the above make jackets to measure...
Members like Rudie and Jan Solo have completely changed patterns into new unique creations..
Look in the archives....;-)
An interesting project, but one that many here have already taken....

My understanding is that altering an existing pattern (no matter how many elements you add/modify) is at best a 'made to measure' exercise. When you order a modified "Highwayman", for example, you are basing your jacket on an already existing pattern. True bespoke is creating a pattern designed and ultimately cut just for you. By that definition, I do not believe any of the above offer that service. Though I could be mistaken.

 

[handymike]

Don't take it the wrong way, but a lot of guys 'round here might believe that the greatest designs in leather jackets have already been made or are variations on already existing jackets. My dream jacket is from the 30's and John @ Goodwear is going to give it a go... It isn't a pattern he's done yet, but he is willing to do it. So, does that count?

 

[ykurtz]

Don't take it the wrong way, but a lot of guys 'round here might believe that the greatest designs in leather jackets have already been made or are variations on already existing jackets. My dream jacket is from the 30's and John @ Goodwear is going to give it a go... It isn't a pattern he's done yet, but he is willing to do it. So, does that count?

I would say if he designs the pattern based on your measurements, cuts the leather, etc., based on the pattern, and assembles it, yeah, that sounds bespoke to me. And I agree that most of the good design concepts are likely already 'out there' and most would start with an already existing design as a starting point. Good design concepts take a while to get tried and tested, and most of the jackets I've seen on the forum are based on design concepts that have stood the test of time.

Oh, and good luck with the jacket from JC. With an 18 month waiting period on current orders, where will he find the time?

 

[feltfan]

Sounds like a distinction without a difference to me. There's not a lot new
under the sun in the world of leather jackets. Certainly nothing new there.

Can't say I'm impressed with the jacket. Not particularly nice leather
and the stitching is pretty sloppy, especially around the wrist. I'll stick to leather
specialists like Johnson.

The funny thing about all the fuss here is that part of the point of leather is that you
don't have to get a perfect fit like you do, say, wool. The leather conforms to you.

 

[ykurtz]

The funny thing about all the fuss here is that part of the point of leather is that you
don't have to get a perfect fit like you do, say, wool. The leather conforms to you.

This might well be true, but in my experience, wool + canvas on quality suiting 'conforms' over time as well. I come from the bespoke suit side, so I'm disproportionately experienced with wool/cashmere/linen suiting, and with little experience on the leather jacket side. Looking forward to learning a lot here.

 

[Peacoat]

Welcome to the Lounge, YKurtz.

I understand your point, and agree that most of the manufacturers don't want to get into the area of a completely new design; however, Johnson Leathers will give it a go. Never used that particular service from them, as I have been able to find what I want from their existing patterns.

The guys here have fairly strong opinions when discussing leather jackets. My opinions aren't that strong about leather, but when it comes to pea coats . . . .

 

[ykurtz]

The guys here have fairly strong opinions when discussing leather jackets. My opinions aren't that strong about leather, but when it comes to pea coats . . . .

I read your history of the peacoat on the site. It was a fun, informative read.

Back in Chicago, I had 4 peacoats and 2 double-breasted overcoats, so definitely have an affinity for them myself. I've always preferred the double-breasted look. When I moved to San Diego, I got rid of most of my heavy coating, and since my move to Dallas mid last year, I haven't found a need to 'stock up' on coats/jackets. However, as I learned since December, it definitely can get colder here than SD, so I'm in the process of procuring a few coats. My first purchase was a LW leather peacoat. Will post some pics after I get it back from the tailor (sleeve shortening).

 

[Fanch]

This winter in the DFW area has been a bit colder than usual. Fortunately I was on a HAL cruise to Hawaii during the ice storm that hit N Texas in December that actually made worldwide news while I was on the ship. I wiould be interested in seeing pics of your LW jackets after it returns from the tailor. I am curious: Which tailor did you use. I have had a very favorable experience with Minsky in Richardson whom I have used on several occasions.

 

[theundeadkennedy]

Jonathan A Logan in Los Angeles does bespoke and Johnson's as others have mentioned. I have not had experience with anyone else.

 

[Peacoat]

I read your history of the peacoat on the site. It was a fun, informative read.

Back in Chicago, I had 4 peacoats and 2 double-breasted overcoats, so definitely have an affinity for them myself. I've always preferred the double-breasted look. When I moved to San Diego, I got rid of most of my heavy coating, and since my move to Dallas mid last year, I haven't found a need to 'stock up' on coats/jackets. However, as I learned since December, it definitely can get colder here than SD, so I'm in the process of procuring a few coats. My first purchase was a LW leather peacoat. Will post some pics after I get it back from the tailor (sleeve shortening).

I am still in the market for a leather peacoat. LW is one of the manufacturers under consideration, but there has been some detail I didn't like with all of them. It may be that the LW didn't have a warm liner, but I can't remember right now. It gets cold enough here that I need warm in a peacoat.

What type of hide did you use? One of our female members here had one made of goat that was very nice.

 

[ykurtz]

I am curious: Which tailor did you use. I have had a very favorable experience with Minsky in Richardson whom I have used on several occasions.

Same tailor; only business in the Dallas area I know with extensive experience tailoring leather.

 

[ykurtz]

I am still in the market for a leather peacoat. LW is one of the manufacturers under consideration, but there has been some detail I didn't like with all of them. It may be that the LW didn't have a warm liner, but I can't remember right now. It gets cold enough here that I need warm in a peacoat.

What type of hide did you use? One of our female members here had one made of goat that was very nice.

I'm not a fan of their 'standard' peacoat design; the buttons appear too far apart to my eye. If you go to the Lost Worlds site and check out their 'Pea Coat' section, scroll about half way down and you'll see a custom peacoat in finnish evergreen. That is structurally the same as the peacoat I purchased, but mine is black elk.

There is only leather and a lining in the LW, true. (But LW will accommodate custom linings, e.g. cashmere or the like). I prefer to layer to provide needed warmth; a habit acquired slogging through numerous Chicago winters. In the winter, you can hit a high in the 40s, and find yourself down to -5 by nightfall not including windchill. There isn't a jacket made that can handle that kind of temperature spread comfortably, so layering definitely helps.

 

[ykurtz]

Jonathan A Logan in Los Angeles does bespoke and Johnson's as others have mentioned. I have not had experience with anyone else.

Oh, right, I heard of Jonathan back in SoCal. I'll have to take a look at Johnson's if I ever get a bespoke itch for a leather jacket.

 

[theundeadkennedy]

Yeah Jonathan is a great guy. I have two jackets from him. I do suggest making it by his studio if you've got time and are in LA. His website does not do his work justice in any way.

Johnson's is where my next jacket will be coming from. Talking to Alan was a real treat, you can just tell he loves what he does.

 

[ykurtz]

Johnson's is where my next jacket will be coming from. Talking to Alan was a real treat, you can just tell he loves what he does.

Please keep us in the loop on this. Looking forward to seeing the new creation. Thanks.