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Berets, Anyone?

Daan

Vendor
Messages
938
Location
Wellington, Aotearoa
The beret as we know it today has it's origins in the French Béarn, but the beret has been invented many times over and over again. The old Greeks wore hats that resemble berets in a variety of colours, Roman legionnaires wore beret-shaped brown woolen felt caps (all over large parts of present-day Europe and influenced local head gear) and the Macedonians wore the Kausia, again a very similar hat to the present day beret.

images
kausia.jpg

Two pictures of a kausia; the ancient Macedonian flat hat which was worn during the Hellenistic period but perhaps even before the time of Alexander the Great

Many more examples of beret-like hats can be found on Sardinia, Crete, in Denmark, Austria and many more places where people kept sheep and needed protection from sun and cold.

Similar for the Svan people in the present-day Republic of Georgia. Surrounded by 3,000–5,000 meter peaks, Svaneti is the highest inhabited area in Europe and the geography ensured the inhabitants of perfect isolation in many ways. The Svans are an ethnic subgroup of the Georgians, generally see themselves as Georgian Orthodox Christians (Christianized in the 4th-6th centuries), but many remnants of old paganism have been maintained (most obvious in symbolism in carving, clothes, etc). The Svans have retained many of their old traditions, including blood revenge. Their families are small, the husband being the head of his family while older women are especially well respected.
One of the old traditions that survived till today is the use of the Svanetian felt hat and, again, the similarities with the beret are numerous:

Ushba_jan10+551.jpg


Both were hats made and further developed by mountain people, shepherds herding their sheep on high mountain pastures, spending weeks and months on end in isolated huts during the nights of the grazing season and keeping themselves occupied with knitting wool. In some ways, the beret as we know it now, is a more developed hat from what the Svan people still use to this day. The hats are completely hand made of felted wool only with the only addition a black string in the shape of a cross, covering the cap. Not a Christian symbol, but from a much older pre-Christian period, symbolizing the connection between humans and the universe (the end of the string is sewn to the side of the cap, representing the owner, while the center of the cross is at the center of the skull).

gallery_1312_3_1188757831.jpg


I got my first Svan felt cap from a friend while working in Georgia and later, found a second specimen while on the other side of the High Caucasus in Chechnya, almost 20 years ago. Moth eaten and over-worn I have been looking for replacements for years and now have finally managed to find a supplier in Georgia. Despite the enormous changes that Georgia has gone through over the last two decades, internet-ordering felt hats made by peasant women living in the high mountains at the other side of the world, still proves to be difficult.
Thanks to incredible postage and Customs costs, I made a one-off order and have some for sale at South Pacific Berets now (and honestly believe you won't find these anywhere else on the web).

14.jpg
01.jpg
15.jpg
17.jpg

 

Daan

Vendor
Messages
938
Location
Wellington, Aotearoa
I call this one the "My Folks Went to Paris and All I Got Was this Lousy Beret" beret. lol
thrift store find

DSCF2843.jpg


emoticon-cartoon-013.gif

Yep, I see what you mean...
Though not as bad as with baseball caps, berets have been used for advertising. Local souvenirs with regional heraldry

profimedia-0004947059.jpg


or picturesque scenes
Arieges+pyrenees.jpg
,

sport-steam logo's,
rugby-worl-cup-2007.jpg


motorbike clubs
BERET%20NOIR.jpg
,
embroidery showing affection for dogs
beret-chien-noir.jpg


and even for police uniforms, like this red txapela of the Spanish region of Navarra:

Policia_Foral_Navarra.jpg


And, as a beret-seller, I can't stay behind, of course. Now at South Pacific Berets these embroidered rugby berets, in support of the Rugby World Cup 2011 (right now, here in in NZ). And best, all profits of the sales go to Women's Refuge (who need it much, unfortunately, during the RWC...).

Rugby%20WC2.JPG.opt402x409o0,0s402x409.JPG

 

Daan

Vendor
Messages
938
Location
Wellington, Aotearoa
My beret appears to be the real deal because the label inside is in French.

I wish it was that simple. I met with Hills Hats the other week, a well established hat manufacturer in NZ, and was shocked by their revelation that their "New Zealand made" berets are actually made in Pakistan! Supposedly, if 50% of the labour is done in another country, one can legally state that the product is made in that country. E.g. a woolen beret is made in Pakistan or China and the lining, label and headband are sewn in in New Zealand (or France, the US, whatever) and the label says made in NZ.
If the additional labour is less than 50%, all the label has to state is "Finished in NZ" (France, the US, etc). Call me naive, but I found this quite a shock.
Checking whether this is a world wide practice, I contacted a French beret manufacturer who confirmed this practice. Many French berets that say "Made in France" come from China (and that is especially valid for the souvenir type berets as pictured in the previous post; the embroidery gets done in France).
But not to worry too much: berets made by established manufacturers like Boinas Elosegui, Blancq-Olibet, TONAK, A. de Setti and Bonigor are without any doubt 100% made in the respective countries!

 

Daan

Vendor
Messages
938
Location
Wellington, Aotearoa
Over the last weeks, I have had a few people asking me about "original Basque berets"; who makes them, where and most of all, which berets are "real Basque berets".
To start with the latter, although the beret (as we know it now) has it's origin in France, there is nothing Basque about it. The main centers of the French beret industry were/are in the Béarn (mainly in the towns of Nay and Oloron St Marie), bordering the (French) Basque provinces. The term 'Basque Beret' is the result of a mistake by Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte; seeing so many Basques wearing a beret, he assumed the beret was Basque and the term stayed.
After gaining popularity in Spain, especially during the Carlist Wars and among the Basques, Antonio Elósegui founded beret factory La Casualidad in Tolosa, in the Spanish Basque Country. Since the closure in 1992 of the "other" famous Spanish beret manufacturer La Encartada in Bilbao, Boinas Elósegui is now the only beret manufacturer in the Basque Country.

So far for Basque origins...
At present there is a small number of traditional beret manufacturers left, well spread across the globe. The oldest one is the French Blancq-Olibet company (founded in 1819), manufacturer of the Bakarra, PÉBÉO, Vrai Basque and Fandango labels, among others.
Then there is BEATEX-Laulhère. Laulhère was founded in 1840, created BEATEX in 1990 which absorbed Beighau in 1996.
Blancq-Olibet and Laulhère-BEATEX are the only French manufacturers left (out of some 40 factories during the 1940's-50's).
350+BAKARRA.jpg
307+PEBEO.jpg
337+VRAI+BASQUE.jpg

The only Spanish beret manufacturer left is the above mentioned Boinas Elósegui.
132.jpg

Then there are two traditional beret manufacturers (of Basque origin) in South America: Bonigor SA in Buenos Aires, Argentina (manufacturer of the labels Espinosa and Tolosa Tupida) and the Fabrica Nacional de Sombreros in Montevideo, Uruguay (Castilla label).
There are other beret manufacturers in South America (in Peru, Chile, Venezuela and Bolivia), but non that can meet have the traditions, history and skills of the factories mentioned above.
TTPG+32+Re.JPG

Czech (or previously Czechoslovak) factory TONAK (and previously FEZCO) has a long history of beret-making as well, dating back to 1828 when Wolf Fürth began the froduction of fezzes in Strakonice. Berets have a long and strong history in the Czech Republic; these days resulting in three models (for men; they make a large range of womens berets as well): the traditional Radiovka, the Superbasques and the Service Star.
Fezco+lge.jpg

Then there is the Italian manufacturer A. de Setti from Carpi, who have been making berets for well over 75 years, most notably the Basco Roma and Francia.
testata.jpg

Well, there are many more beret manufacturers; mainly in India, Pakistan and Bangladesh (suppliers to many armies of the world), China, Australia, Romania, Germany and likely many other countries. But, the above mentioned factories are, to the best of my knowledge, the only ones that would classify as a "traditional beret manufacturer".
 

coble

A-List Customer
Messages
432
Location
houston
The beret as we know it today has it's origins in the French Béarn, but the beret has been invented many times over and over again. The old Greeks wore hats that resemble berets in a variety of colours, Roman legionnaires wore beret-shaped brown woolen felt caps (all over large parts of present-day Europe and influenced local head gear) and the Macedonians wore the Kausia, again a very similar hat to the present day beret.

images
kausia.jpg

Two pictures of a kausia; the ancient Macedonian flat hat which was worn during the Hellenistic period but perhaps even before the time of Alexander the Great

Many more examples of beret-like hats can be found on Sardinia, Crete, in Denmark, Austria and many more places where people kept sheep and needed protection from sun and cold.

Similar for the Svan people in the present-day Republic of Georgia. Surrounded by 3,000–5,000 meter peaks, Svaneti is the highest inhabited area in Europe and the geography ensured the inhabitants of perfect isolation in many ways. The Svans are an ethnic subgroup of the Georgians, generally see themselves as Georgian Orthodox Christians (Christianized in the 4th-6th centuries), but many remnants of old paganism have been maintained (most obvious in symbolism in carving, clothes, etc). The Svans have retained many of their old traditions, including blood revenge. Their families are small, the husband being the head of his family while older women are especially well respected.
One of the old traditions that survived till today is the use of the Svanetian felt hat and, again, the similarities with the beret are numerous:

Ushba_jan10+551.jpg


Both were hats made and further developed by mountain people, shepherds herding their sheep on high mountain pastures, spending weeks and months on end in isolated huts during the nights of the grazing season and keeping themselves occupied with knitting wool. In some ways, the beret as we know it now, is a more developed hat from what the Svan people still use to this day. The hats are completely hand made of felted wool only with the only addition a black string in the shape of a cross, covering the cap. Not a Christian symbol, but from a much older pre-Christian period, symbolizing the connection between humans and the universe (the end of the string is sewn to the side of the cap, representing the owner, while the center of the cross is at the center of the skull).

gallery_1312_3_1188757831.jpg


I got my first Svan felt cap from a friend while working in Georgia and later, found a second specimen while on the other side of the High Caucasus in Chechnya, almost 20 years ago. Moth eaten and over-worn I have been looking for replacements for years and now have finally managed to find a supplier in Georgia. Despite the enormous changes that Georgia has gone through over the last two decades, internet-ordering felt hats made by peasant women living in the high mountains at the other side of the world, still proves to be difficult.
Thanks to incredible postage and Customs costs, I made a one-off order and have some for sale at South Pacific Berets now (and honestly believe you won't find these anywhere else on the web).

14.jpg
01.jpg
15.jpg
17.jpg


where would i be able to buy a svan cap, i really like them, would be great for winter time?
 

Daan

Vendor
Messages
938
Location
Wellington, Aotearoa
Similar to the Svanetian felt hat and the beret is the qeleshe (or 'plis'), the felted woollen hat worn by Albanian mountain people.

3586wxz.png


A qeleshe is a traditional skull cap, worn by men throughout Albania, Kosovo, Macedonia, Serbia and in the Arbëresh villages in Italy.

qeleshe.jpg


The shape of the hat changes with the region: in northern Albania, the cone is shorter, whereas in southern Albania it's shape is taller, more conical, especially in the Gjirokastër and Vlorë regions. The men of the Myzeqe low plains region wear the smaller, northern style, cap with plies.

Avdo+Mededovich%252C+the+Yugoslav+Homer.jpg

Avdo Mededovich, the Yugoslav Homer

In some areas of southern Albania a small protrusion comes out of the cap. The hat is made from one single piece of felted wool, usually white, that is molded to the shape of the head. Sometimes the qeleshe is worn in combination with a bandana tied around the head.
[video=youtube_share;YiS1KGW_A-s]http://youtu.be/YiS1KGW_A-s[/video]
The name qeleshe comes from the Albanian word for wool: lesh.

xhaja.jpg


Presently, I have a small number of traditional northern Albanian style qeleshes in stock (@ $21.50).
 

Daan

Vendor
Messages
938
Location
Wellington, Aotearoa
Two new additions to the stock of South Pacific Berets: the top of the range berets made by the world's oldest beret manufacturer Blancq-Olibet (from Nay, in the French Béarn since 1819) and on the other end of the spectrum, more Radiovka's from Czech manufacturer TONAK/FEZCO (since 1865).

PEBEO+001.jpg
Fezco+lge.jpg


Two very different lines of berets and at the same time, they share sheer excellence.
The Vrai Basque's, Bakarra's and PeBeO berets by Blancq-Olibet are objectively of the highest possible quality.

0


Australian merino wool in a tight knit, densely felted, leaving a beautiful finishing. Acetate lining and embroidered labels are all top quality - let's say the Rolls Royces among berets. In comparison, the Radiovka's are more of the 2CV
beret2cv.jpg
among berets: unpretentious, straight forward wool berets, following years and years of unchanged tradition and comfortable as no other beret. Where words like style and class spring to mind for the French berets, I think more of anarchism and down-to-earthiness for these Czech berets.

R%25C3%25A1diovka.JPG
buurman+animace_pt02.gif


The question is, for how much longer... FEZCO and now TONAK used to be hatmakers pur sang, but are now expanding in other (high tech) fields of textile technology (like the upholstery for Volkswagens). As for berets, the bulk of their beret production is for the higher end of the fashion industry; "berets" in a large variety of shapes, changing every season and with only a few traditional berets left in the range (SuperBasques, Service Star and Radiovka's) and I can see the end of that line coming.

4709036_07212f1116_m.jpeg


I guess it's what happens the world over, the decline of headgear (apart from baseball caps), but where Blancq-Olibet works hard on maintaining a tradition, the post-1991 Czech Republic seems to shy away from that.
 

Heinrich

New in Town
Messages
12
Location
Germany
I guess it's what happens the world over, the decline of headgear (apart from baseball caps), but where Blancq-Olibet works hard on maintaining a tradition, the post-1991 Czech Republic seems to shy away from that.

Sorry Daan, I can't agree with this statement. Decent headgear might have been declining until the end of the 90s, but fortunately, there seems to be a kind of revival since a couple of years. Many celebrities are wearing fedora hats or stylish caps e.g. Johnny Depp or Brad Pitt. And since those people are role models for many others, I am happy to see more and more very nice headgear around - and less baseball caps. Even HipHoppers (whose names you really can't expect me to know...) are often wearing some kind of english carcaps.

So it's not necessarily our beloved beret, but there seems to be a glimpse of hope for traditional headgear.
 

Daan

Vendor
Messages
938
Location
Wellington, Aotearoa
Sorry Daan, I can't agree with this statement. Decent headgear might have been declining until the end of the 90s, but fortunately, there seems to be a kind of revival since a couple of years. Many celebrities are wearing fedora hats or stylish caps e.g. Johnny Depp or Brad Pitt. And since those people are role models for many others, I am happy to see more and more very nice headgear around - and less baseball caps. Even HipHoppers (whose names you really can't expect me to know...) are often wearing some kind of english carcaps.

So it's not necessarily our beloved beret, but there seems to be a glimpse of hope for traditional headgear.

You are right, Heinrich, to a certain extend... I see that headgear is re-gaining popularity, and that is great. But what I meant with "the decline of headgear" is more the everyday use of hats, the custom of not stepping out of the door without a hat on your head. Although I, like you, enjoy seeing many more hat-wearing people around, I sense that these hats are often worn to make a fashion statement, to be part of a (sub)-group. And of course, there is nothing wrong with that; it's just different from the situation until the mid 1960's.
You mention Johnny Depp, who's "father" in the much undervalued movie Arizona Dream made the comment that even if you don't have the money to have pants on your butt, you should never leave home without a hat on your head (or something along those lines). I like that attitude...

281m.jpg
images


Meanwhile, I can't wait for the movie in which Johnny Depp will don a real beret...
 
Last edited:

Italian-wiseguy

One of the Regulars
Messages
271
Location
Italy (Parma and Rome)
Now these two berets are made by the same (quite old) firm, Baschificio Setti (i.e. "beretmaker" Setti) and are signed the same size, 55:

Duebaschi.jpg


nonetheless, they're quite different in size; one has a slightly smaller head opening (and the leather headband seems to have been sewn in a rather "wavy" way, like it was slightly larger then the beret "hole") and really smaller "vuelo" or overall largeness of the beret:

Duebaschi2.jpg


they sit quite differently on the head:
Bascopiccolo.jpg


Bascogrande.jpg


well, I don't have a clue. The Setti site has very few (and small) pictures, but they seem to have two models of civilian male beret, the Roma (seems smaller) and the Francia ("France") (which seems a little larger, but should have a different lining...)

I used the small one in the rain, but I don't think it shrinked a lot, it's always been smaller than the other
(but it conformed to my head)

when I asked to buy a beret, obviously I didn' ask for an "italian" one, I didn' even know there was an italian brand still operative!

anyway, the seller simply gave me me these ones because he told me that they were the last ones in my size; considering that Setti seems to be a little and quasi-family business brand, maybe these were some kind of "defected" or non completely standard ones (i.e a Francia with a different liner?), or probably some kind of variation has to be expected...

Daan, are you reading? Your opinion? :)

ciao!
 
Last edited:

Daan

Vendor
Messages
938
Location
Wellington, Aotearoa
...... Daan, are you reading? Your opinion? :)

ciao!

Hi Wiseguy,

Yes, you're showing one of my favourite berets, the Basco Roma, aka the Italian Popular Workers Beret.
I can't explain the difference in size/diameter between the two identical (?) berets, except for what you mentioned yourself: shrinkage and the adjustment of a beret to a wearer's head over time. Interestingly, the manufacturer's catalogue says the Roma has a diameter of 230mm, while the Basco Roma's that I stock are pretty much 240mm. Still, far from a "defected Basco Francia".

testuccia.jpg


The Basco Francia is a similar beret in quality in 270mm diameter, with a single colour lining (versus the tartan lining of the Basco Roma) and a large embroidered (Super Basque) label. By coincidence, I just received the first lot of Basco Francia's for South Pacific Berets - will be listed on the web site within the next 48 hours!
roma.jpg
francia.jpg


Baschificio A. Setti is actually considered highly among beret manufacturers and beret-wearers, with a tradition that goes back to 1925 and presently manufacturing around 2500 berets per day! Basque berets (the Roma and the Francia), fashion berets for women and the armed forces of Italy and a number of other countries.
 

Italian-wiseguy

One of the Regulars
Messages
271
Location
Italy (Parma and Rome)
Thank you Daan!
Well, advancing my hypothesis about the size difference I didn't mean to disrepect the Setti brand, I was simply curious.
As for quality, I have to say both my Setti berets are extremely soft, wearable, impermeable and well refined; also the leather headband is so soft that you forget it while wearing it...

Edit
Out of curiosity I took out a tailor's centimeter and measured the berets; turns out that "small" Roma is 230 mm, "large" Roma is 240 mm; so probably it's simply normal factory variation, plus some shrinking and head conforming (and in the photos, I wear the "small" one pulled to the rear, the "large" to the side...)

then again, I have a non-branded 280 mm, and a Laulhère (made by Beatex) 270, and now those are very different beasts... ;)
 
Last edited:

J.B.

Practically Family
Messages
677
Location
Hollywood

...the manufacturer's catalogue says the Roma has a diameter of 230mm, while the Basco Roma's that I stock are pretty much 240mm...

...Out of curiosity I took out a tailor's centimeter and measured the berets; turns out that "small" Roma is 230 mm, "large" Roma is 240 mm; so probably it's simply normal factory variation...

My Roma is 266 mm (10.5 inch) in diameter?!

But with this many differences seen in just our few examples here -- it seems to me that no attention to achieving parity (or even bothering to sort them) by diameter occurs at the factory?! The sweatband is correctly sized and accurate in circumference, but the process of construction may be such that each Roma beret evolves independently and becomes its own style as it passes along through the factory???

Very nice, soft material that reminds me of the Borsalino "made in Italy" beret line. Whether Borsalino berets are made by Baschificio A. Setti, too -- I don't know but they look and feel similar.
 

Daan

Vendor
Messages
938
Location
Wellington, Aotearoa
My Roma is 266 mm (10.5 inch) in diameter?!

Very nice, soft material that reminds me of the Borsalino "made in Italy" beret line. Whether Borsalino berets are made by Baschificio A. Setti, too -- I don't know but they look and feel similar.

A variety of diameters indeed and of course, I can't answer for the manufacturer. What I do know is that different manufacturers use various ways of measuring. For instance: the Argentinean made berets made by Bonigor SA are measured lying completely flat, from one end to the opposite end. Some French made berets are measured "fitted", with a paper stuffing in the rim, raising the top of the beret and therefore slightly narrowing the overall diameter (when the paper stuffing is taken out and laid flat, the diameter increases). This may be an explanation, but honestly, I don't know if this is the answer to the varying diameters of the Roma.

002.JPG


Anyway, the Bascos Francia that are now available through South Pacific Berets are all between 266 and 271mm!

As for the Borsalino berets: these are not made by Baschificio A. Setti - they are French made! I can't recall whether it is Blancq-Olibet (PeBeO, Bakarra) or Laulhere-Beatex, but it's one of these two French manufacturers.
 

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