Berets, Anyone?

[Babbo Philipe]

Yesterday, my wife got her first beret: a Laulhère that I had ordered for her.

View attachment 64400

We were both disappointed by the quality of the product. Even she, who has no prior beret experience, found the wool to be thin. I was surprised that the warp/weft of the weave was so clear to the eye. In other berets, the fabric is a nice smooth homogeneity to the weave. But on this beret, you can see the concentric circles of the weave.

View attachment 64399

It's also rather thin. I was not impressed.

I was going to return the beret, but it's a cold day here in North, and she needed a hat to wear. She popped it on her head and headed out into the snow before I could send it back. I did order her an Elosegui Dame con Foro. I'm hoping that its quality will be appreciably better.

wow, i am sorry to hear that, believe you me, i was sincerely bummed when i sold my Campan, i went nuts on Auloronesa, and sold all the one i did not need, or so i thought, i bought a new Campan, sent it back thats when the regret really sent in, i had a perfect 20 year old campan original owner (me) and sold it, crud, ----so i though what if auloronesa falls by the way side, i bought 9, LOL just got a new black one 10pouce, what a beauty

 

[BriarWolf]

So I'm curious, being a bit of a nerd on both berets and monarchical history, I've always liked the classic Carlist beret with the tassel. Does anyone know if there's still a source for these? So far I've turned up nothing; in fact I wonder if these were largely just local red berets with the tassel added after the fact rather than something specially made.

 

[Dreamofgilgamesh]

[/Quote] I did order her an Elosegui Dame [/QUOTE]

Tell me, is there really any difference between the Female and Male versions?

 

[RJR]

A couple of interesting questions in the above posts.Surely Daan will know the answers.

 

[BriarWolf]

BriarWolf It looks like red Elosegui customized with a pin and a curtain ornament attached to the txortena.

That was my thought as well.

 

[GrayEyes]

Tell me, is there really any difference between the Female and Male versions?

For starters, the interior label is different, as you can see on the Elosegui website. Also, the men's Elosegui berets come in a limited choice of colors (black, navy blue, and red -- and some in brown, midnight blue, and kelly green), but the women's berets come in a huge range of colors.

But is there really a qualitative difference in the wool, or does it fit differently?
I'll let you know when it arrives. In my experiences, Elosegui is rather slow about shipping. But I will report back when the boina gets here.

 

[Dreamofgilgamesh]

The reason is asked is this,
Heres the Exposición Hombres on SPB http://southpacificberets.com/exposición-hombres.php

And here it is again on Cappeleria Malegari http://www.cappelleriamelegari.com/...zenid=gjckl2lc1vit1lab8k9kpvsir1#.WHZH-WdIzz8

Exactly the same as far as i can see apart from the label (and the price)

 

[GrayEyes]

The reason is asked is this,
Heres the Exposición Hombres on SPB http://southpacificberets.com/exposición-hombres.php

And here it is again on Cappeleria Malegari http://www.cappelleriamelegari.com/...zenid=gjckl2lc1vit1lab8k9kpvsir1#.WHZH-WdIzz8

Exactly the same as far as i can see apart from the label (and the price)

Excellent observation.

The Exposición Hombres berets sold by South Pacific Berets do look the same as Dame con Forro berets -- except for the label (which comes from the Elosegui factory) and the price (which is set by the seller).
However, 1) SPB offers 10 colors for the men's version and Elosegui's own store offers 40 colors for the women's version, and 2) Elosegui's own store (men's selection) does not offer the Exposición Hombres at all.

An additional, subjective observation: I think that some women don't mind wearing a "unisex" beret with a generic label but they might not want to wear a beret that is expressly labelled "hombres" or "hommes." Yes, the product is same, but it says "for men" on it. But that's purely a personal or subjective call.

 

[Babbo Philipe]

personally a beret is a beret, mens women, the size is the only thing that matters, , ,,,,,i have mine and very satisfied

 

[Daan]

Just returned from our (southern hemisphere) summer holidays and great to see all the activity on TFL over the past few weeks. And yes, happy to put my 5c worth of opinion in.
Re. GrayEyes' questions on the Exposición Hombres, these are custom made by Boinas Elósegui for South Pacific Berets (and to the best of my knowledge, not available anywhere else). This also explains the price difference with the 'Exp. Dames'; smaller numbers cost more to produce.

GrayEyes's mentioning of the Laulhere article is an interesting one (post of 4 January) with lots to read between the lines. Laulhère's marketing manager refers to both Boneteria Auloronesa and Le Béret Français as the newly set up manufacturers; not dismissing Le Béret Français.
There are still a few small workshops in France that buy the raw hoods and finish them under their own label (fitting in lining, headband and label); some of these raw hoods actually come from Laulhère.

A good example is the Gaïto, made by the manufacturer of the military "Plein Ciel" and "SECNA" berets. The company manufactured its berets until the 1980s and from then started buying from Laulhère (and possibly others).
Another example is the Franco-German Baskenmütze; the raw hood made by Laulhère, but all other fittings and finishings by ESCO in Germany:

But back to the article... Laulhère has been very dismissive about Boneteria Auloronesa and Le Béret Français, but have taken much of that back. This had partly to do with the threat of a court case, as Laulhère had claimed (in various media) to be the only French beret manufacturer left (after incorporating Blancq-Olibet 3 years ago). Protests of both companies (and myself) made Laulhère change it's claim to be the last historic beret manufacturer in France.
There is a lot of politics going on in what really is a small community of beret manufacturers. Interesting detail: the manufacturer of Boneteria Auloronesa is the former technical director of Laulhère and the people who have set up (and run) Le Béret Français are former Laulhère employees, not happy with the direction the company was going.

Last, the question if there are men's and women's berets. Simply, all Basque (and military) berets can just as well be worn by women. However, there are many berets specifically made for women and, although any man could wear these, they are far from a typical men's headgear (fitted with rhinestones, floral embroidery, etc.).

Some news from South Pacific Berets: I expected a large shipment with beautiful new berets from Boinas Elosegui, only to learn today that NZ Post deemed it necessary to return the shipment to Tolosa... Despite being on the phone with NZ Post for (not joking) 2.5 hours, it is still completely unclear why this happened, the reasons varying with every person I spoke to (from a damaged parcel to an unreadable address). Dissatisfying to the extreme and it will be some 4 weeks before they'll make it back to Wellington. To be continued.

Better news, still from Spain, is the completely new stock of Catalan barretines; hats with literally 1000's of years history behind them (think Phrygian cap, Liberty cap) and now available in three models, all made by traditional artisan Catalan manufacturers!
Famously worn by Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dali, Frank Zappa and Lou Reed:

Known to wear nothing but traditional Basque berets, I have actually made an exception for the barretina; I love it!

 

[Babbo Philipe]

thanks for the info Dann, i for one am delighted in the division of said technical director , (denis), i would urge anyone who wants a quality beret, to get one of these auloronesa, or Aotearoa before he retires ---- after that i would fear good true foulard berets would be all but a memory, good masters are fading out --Blanq Olibet were great berets, my thoughts anyway

 

[foamy]

snip... i would urge anyone who wants a quality beret, to get one of these auloronesa, or Aotearoa ... snip

I agree, almost entirely. They're always my "go to" when it's a just a quick grab one and go. The 295 or 310, usually. Probably should snag a 280—just because.

Though, I did just order a Laulhere Bayadére Isturitz. Thought I'd try another beret with a headband.

By the way Daan, the pink went over very well. I think she just sorta plopped it on, but the reaction has been very favorable.

 

[GrayEyes]

Daan,

Thanks for the information and the clarification (particularly regarding Saunders's view of Le Béret Français).

 

[Daan]

thanks for the info Dann, i for one am delighted in the division of said technical director , (denis), i would urge anyone who wants a quality beret, to get one of these auloronesa, or Aotearoa before he retires ---- after that i would fear good true foulard berets would be all but a memory, good masters are fading out --Blanq Olibet were great berets, my thoughts anyway

You are dead right, the retirement of the manufacturer of Boneteria Auloronesa is a huge concern to me. Not easy to find a suitable candidate to take over this business (working long hours for little money on a highly specialized technical job). One reason for me to keep stocks up, but who knows what things will look like in another few years...

As for your comments on Blancq-Olibet berets, I tend to disagree. B.-O. made some beautiful berets in the distant past, but in the last decades of the factory's existence, the actual berets were made by Boinas Elósegui and only finished by Blancq-Olibet in Baudreix (Béarn). By fitting in the lining, label and headband, B.-O. could claim their berets were "made in France". The main reason for this construction was that the factory couldn't afford to implement expensive water treatment facilities under new environmental legislation and therefore had to stop it's own production.

The Spanish made berets were of good quality (I sold many PeBeO and Bakarra berets at the time), but were below the standard of Elósegui's own boinas Super Lujo's (in my opinion, still among the very best berets one can find). Blancq-Olibet was also notorious for incorrect sizing (a real headache!) and, again my personal opinion, their headbands were of questionable quality (prone to cracking and very stiff).

However, Blancq-Olibet definitely had some of the most beautiful beret labels!

 

[Daan]

I agree, almost entirely. They're always my "go to" when it's a just a quick grab one and go. The 295 or 310, usually. Probably should snag a 280—just because.

Though, I did just order a Laulhere Bayadére Isturitz. Thought I'd try another beret with a headband.

By the way Daan, the pink went over very well. I think she just sorta plopped it on, but the reaction has been very favorable.
View attachment 65402

Lovely photo, Foamy. I wish I could get my 3 teenage daughters into wearing berets (again), but no such chance. I guess following in your father's footsteps, being a teenager, is the most un-cool thing to do...

Your Laulhère Bayadére Isturitz is on its way to you; a very beautiful, well made beret. With all the politics and competition, it is easy to forget the huge role Laulhère has taken on in promoting berets (again) in and outside France: opening their first boutique in the chic “Golden Triangle” on the Parisian rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, only 400 meters from the Élysée; presence on all major fashion shows; ensuring attention for berets in French and international media and blowing new life into the Beret Museum in Nay. Great work.

 

[Babbo Philipe]

i really don't know much about Blanq Olibet other than i own one i assume was made by them, very nice, that was purchased from madelios clothes store in france, Barkeza beret no headband,i believe you were the one who informed me of the maker

 

[Babbo Philipe]

says it all, Elegance

 

[Daan]

Hours after NZ Post confirmed that the shipment of Spanish berets had been returned to sender (for reasons varying depending on each operator I spoke to), the berets were delivered in Wellington. The mysterious ways of NZ Post...

Alas, never before did South Pacific Berets receive so many unique, custom made berets in one go.
All these berets are of Exposición Super Lujo quality, fitted with the traditional Euskal Herria (Basque Country) label and made of 100% fine virgin Australian merino wool.

The new colours Azul Cielo (sky blue), Morada (dark plum) and Naranja 80 (burnt sienna) are vibrant and stunningly beautiful.
The Azul Cielo and Morado models come in 300mm; the Burnt Sienna is a "Grande" in 315mm diameter.

Moved to the shelves of South Pacific Berets is all Boinas Elósegui's remaining stock of custom made Super Lujo-Grandes and Txapelduns, .We now stock a very small number of 325 and 350mm models in Loden Green, Chocolate Brown, Basque Red and Bordeaux.

The biggest news is the Txapelas Edición Limitada Paso-doble. A very special limited edition two-tone txapela, only available in very small numbers, exclusively at South Pacific Berets.
These two-tone berets are handmade by Boinas Elosegui of the finest Australian virgin merino wool, available in two colour schemes in two diameters. A most elegant luxurious txapela and a guaranteed head turner.
Available in Black/Anthracite and Navy/Bordeaux.

 

[Nico]

If you recall I had knee surgery last year. Unfortunately the knee is still giving me grief, going back to see the surgeon next week.
To cheer myself up wearing my quetsche Auloronesa.

 

[GrayEyes]

If you recall I had knee surgery last year. Unfortunately the knee is still giving me grief, going back to see the surgeon next week.
To cheer myself up wearing my quetsche Auloronesa.
View attachment 65595

Ah, a little purple to chase away the blues?

Sorry about your knee, mate. I wish the you best of luck.