Berets, Anyone?

[Daan]

On SPECIAL this week: the linen lined Foulards Aotearoa!

The foulard quality Boneteria Aotearoa Merino wool berets made by Manufacture de Bérets founder Denis Guédon in Oloron Sainte Maire are fitted with natural, unbleached French linen lining, a non-animal based leatherette headband and our own label. Not only beautiful, but very pleasant to wear as providing excellent moisture absorption and very comfortable to the touch.

This week only, a small number on special from $95.00 @ $74.50 (as long as stock lasts).

 

[Daan]

Spotlight on Boineros from Ukraine

Erikas Varnas (1924 – 2011) was a Ukraine born Lithuanian artist; a sculptor, medalist, portraitist, who devoted his whole life to the idea of peace, to conveying pacifist views in sheets of paper, canvas, bronze, marble, granite.

Valériy Khmelkó (1939 –2021) was a Ukrainian sociologist, Professor at the Sociology Department of the National University of Kiev-Mohyla Academy, and President of the Kyiv International Institute of Sociology. He was a visiting scholar in 1992, 2000 and 2001 at the Sociology Department of Johns Hopkins University (United States).

Viktor Neborak, a tall imposing figure with a booming voice that makes a microphone come to life when he performs his poetry, was born in 1961 and is one of the leading representatives of the mid-to-late 1980s cultural revival in Ukraine. He is best known as a poet and founding member (along with Yuri Andrukhovych and Oleksander Irvanets) of the Bu-Ba-Bu literary performance group that gained enormous popularity in the late 1980s and 1990s in Ukraine. The syllables of the group\'s name stand for burlesque (burlesk), a puppet show or farce (balahan), and buffoonery (bufonada).

Yosyp Georgiyovych Strutsyuk (1934) is a Ukrainian writer and poet of the Sixties. The Sixtiers ("People of the 60s") were representatives of а new generation of the Soviet Intelligentsia, who entered the cultural and political life of the USSR during the late 1950s and 1960s, after the Khrushchev Thaw.

Dimarov (born Anatoly Andronikovych Harasyuta, 1922—2014) was a Ukrainian writer.
His father was married to a priest's daughter and was later declared a Kulak. Dimarov later said "My path to the world was completely closed to me. And my unfortunate mother for the sake of us, two children, gave up her personal life. She went to Myrhorod, found her friends, and begged them to testify in the Myrhorod court that she had lost her children's metrics and that we were the children of teacher Dimarov, who died. Since then, I became Dimarov, not Garasyuta”.
"I couldn't go anywhere, not even to the Komsomol, I was afraid that they would start studying my biography and find out that I was the son of a kulak." As a child, Anatoliy survived the Holodomor in Ukraine in 1932-1933. At the beginning of World War II, he fought on the Southwestern Frontand in 1941, was seriously injured. After recovery he found himself in the occupied territories. He became the commander of a partisan detachment, had several injuries and contusions, and became disabled at a young age. He was awarded orders and medals. In 1944 he came to Lutsk, where he lived for six years. And it was there, as the writer admitted, that the national consciousness awoke in him. "It never occurred to me that I was Ukrainian!"

Mykola Ivanovich Stratilat (1942 —2023) was a graphic artist, a member of the National Academy of Arts and Sciences (1980), Honored Artist of Ukraine (1996) and People's Artist of Ukraine (2008).

Publicist, writer, scientist and teacher Oleg K. Romanchuk carried out a thorough analysis of the reasons for Ukraine’s victories and defeats, successes and failures.
His new book "Don't be afraid. Don't betray. Do not be silent" carries the clarifying title: "Wartime Journalism. Selected texts 2014–2019: articles, essays".

 

[Leyomi]

Long before black became the standard colour of Basque berets, the Béarnaise shepherds in the High Pyrenees already wore their naturally brown berets.
View attachment 534609
When on to the summer pastures in the high mountains for many months at a time, the shepherds kept themselves busy with knitting, making use of the wool shed by their flocks, not worried by a need for dyeing into fashionable colours.
View attachment 534612
In the Béarnais Vallée d’Ossau, brown is still the colour of choice.
View attachment 534611 View attachment 534610
Closest to these original berets, are the Bérets Merino d'Arles. Le Béret Français makes these in their standard Classique model and in the more luxurious Cabillou Rouge model.
The limited edition by Boneteria Aotearoa is still available in very small numbers in 10 and 11p.
View attachment 534613
August 2022, France's oldest beret manufacturer Laulhère (since 1840), caused an outcry amongst the people of Béarn, when they announced to stop the regular production of brown berets - Laulhère will only manufacture them "on special order in batches of sufficient quantity”.
It made the local media big time. In the Ossau valley, it is traditionally worn by the population during village festivals, such as in Laruns, Béost and Bielle.
View attachment 534614 View attachment 534615
Luckily, boineros are not dependent on Laulhère; the very best French made berets are the Auloronesa and Orthesa Universels and both are available in a beautiful brown.
By the same manufacturer, there are also a small number of Limited Editions Pacifique available, in brown and russet.
View attachment 534618
This week on Special: browns, for winter and summer!
Five models by Boinas Elósegui in Clásica and Super Lujo quality...
View attachment 534616 View attachment 534617
...and for those suffering from the northern hemisphere heat, two models that make for great summer wear at a massive price reduction (as long as stock lasts).

The shepherds that are knitting in the picture aren't from Béarn though, they're from Landes of Gascony

 

[Little Cooties]

Hi all!
My 2nd ever beret arrived in the mail today from Sterkowski in Poland, my (twin) brother also got on (his blue, mine black). My first beret was one I got in a trip to France in '09. It was a Fandango (I believe by Blancq-Olibet). It has leather band unfortunately, and it no longer fits. It was hard finding a proper beret in Paris even then. So far I'm really enjoying the Sterkowski! We're coming out of winter here in Australia, and it's nice to have a change from my US army watch cap. It's nice and warm, although it seems it arrived a bit late as spring is almost sprung. Both my brother and I are already looking at out next berets, we have our eyes on Radiovkas or Basco Romas, and I'm also considering some of the other Czech berets.
Incidentally, my grandfather was a beret wearer (boinero?), so I guess we're carrying on tradition (although I won't be carrying on his pipe smoking habit). He even had a feature on Daan's blog about ten years ago (here). One of the reasons we wanted to get a beret in France was his influence. I remember one of his berets having a tartan lining, but I forget the model unfortunately. I'm sure he ordered at least some of his from Daan.
I have to say I have enjoyed reading this whole thread, very informative. This is my first post to the fedora lounge, I made this account just so I could join the conversation here. Hope you all have a good day.

 

[Mm25]

Hi all!
My 2nd ever beret arrived in the mail today from Sterkowski in Poland, my (twin) brother also got on (his blue, mine black). My first beret was one I got in a trip to France in '09. It was a Fandango (I believe by Blancq-Olibet). It has leather band unfortunately, and it no longer fits. It was hard finding a proper beret in Paris even then. So far I'm really enjoying the Sterkowski! We're coming out of winter here in Australia, and it's nice to have a change from my US army watch cap. It's nice and warm, although it seems it arrived a bit late as spring is almost sprung. Both my brother and I are already looking at out next berets, we have our eyes on Radiovkas or Basco Romas, and I'm also considering some of the other Czech berets.
Incidentally, my grandfather was a beret wearer (boinero?), so I guess we're carrying on tradition (although I won't be carrying on his pipe smoking habit). He even had a feature on Daan's blog about ten years ago (here). One of the reasons we wanted to get a beret in France was his influence. I remember one of his berets having a tartan lining, but I forget the model unfortunately. I'm sure he ordered at least some of his from Daan.
I have to say I have enjoyed reading this whole thread, very informative. This is my first post to the fedora lounge, I made this account just so I could join the conversation here. Hope you all have a good day.
View attachment 542109

Welcome,
Great look. Keep rocking those mutton chops!

 

[Little Cooties]

Welcome,
Great look. Keep rocking those mutton chops!

Thanks! I plan to keep the mutton chops, I've had sideburns for as long as I could grow facial hair, and I've had the full chops the last 4 years at least. I was unsure how the beret would suit my face shape/facial hair, but I'm pleasantly surprised how much I like the look!

 

[Edward]

Thanks! I plan to keep the mutton chops, I've had sideburns for as long as I could grow facial hair, and I've had the full chops the last 4 years at least. I was unsure how the beret would suit my face shape/facial hair, but I'm pleasantly surprised how much I like the look!

Always fun! I had a set of hefty sideburns back about twenty years ago. I grew mine in as I was a hardcore Rocky Horror shadowcaster at the time, and they looked way better than a fake pair with my FranknFurter wig. Tragedy struck in 2006: I had to accept the bald, shaved my head, and realised..... my sideburns looked *ridiculous* without the hair on top, so they had to go.... Fun while they lasted, though.

 

[Daan]

Hi all!
My 2nd ever beret arrived in the mail today from Sterkowski in Poland, my (twin) brother also got on (his blue, mine black). My first beret was one I got in a trip to France in '09. It was a Fandango (I believe by Blancq-Olibet). It has leather band unfortunately, and it no longer fits. It was hard finding a proper beret in Paris even then. So far I'm really enjoying the Sterkowski! We're coming out of winter here in Australia, and it's nice to have a change from my US army watch cap. It's nice and warm, although it seems it arrived a bit late as spring is almost sprung. Both my brother and I are already looking at out next berets, we have our eyes on Radiovkas or Basco Romas, and I'm also considering some of the other Czech berets.
Incidentally, my grandfather was a beret wearer (boinero?), so I guess we're carrying on tradition (although I won't be carrying on his pipe smoking habit). He even had a feature on Daan's blog about ten years ago (here). One of the reasons we wanted to get a beret in France was his influence. I remember one of his berets having a tartan lining, but I forget the model unfortunately. I'm sure he ordered at least some of his from Daan.
I have to say I have enjoyed reading this whole thread, very informative. This is my first post to the fedora lounge, I made this account just so I could join the conversation here. Hope you all have a good day.
View attachment 542109

Great to see you here, 2 generations down the line. Yes, Michael had a number of my berets and I have some great paintings by him on our walls! Found a good picture of Michael and his works here:

I recall one of his favourite's was a Fandango too, by Blancq-Olibet, in brown.

 

[Edward]

Working from home this week, I've received notification a new beret has arrived for me in the office - I'll pick that up next week. I say beret, well....

It's a caubeen. An Irish beret of sorts, with its folk-historic origins in a cap worn by General Owen Roe O'Neill (1585-1649). In design, it bears similarities with the beret, the Jacobite bonnet and the Tam O'Shanter. Construction is a variation on the beret style, usually with a separate, flat sewn in crown (rather than the single-piece Basque beret construction), and a trimmed rim at the bottom. The attached cockade is a typical feature, and in a military context will usually display a pinned-on regimental motif of some sort. The tails down the back will be recognisable as a feature to anyone familiar with the Scottish glengarry and balmoral hats. Traditionally they were most commonly green, though other colours were used; some early 17thC accounts refer to O'Neill's as having been a shade of blue.

In the modern era, the Caubeen has been mostly associated with military garb. The Royal Irish Regiment (and its predecessors) of the British Army wear them in green, with an attached green cockade. A black version is worn by the pipers of the Irish Defence Forces, with the kilts and assorted Highland regalia, a tradition they adopted from the British military regiments they effectively replaced when the majority of the British Army's Irish regiments were dissolved at the foundation of the new Irish state with its own military in 1922.

I'm off to friends' wedding celebration next month, at which I will be wearing a new set of Highland dress. I've worn a kilt and regalia on occasions for a few years now, a nod to the significant Scottish ancestry in my family line (at least one branch of the family ended up in Ireland after being forced off the land they farmed by absentee landlords who wanted the land for sheep grazing, so the story goes). This time, I'm debuting a new kilt in saffron yellow, with a green jacket. A more Irish spin on the Highland garb. I already have a green Caubeen, but decided to pick up a black one for this occasion as it to my eye adds a touch of formality, and goes nicely with the black facings and flashed on the green jacket.

 

[Daan]

From 11 through 26 September, I'll be on an exploratory mission to Australia, a discovery tour into beret-wearing, manufacturing and all things 'Aussie-beret'.
South Pacific Berets / Boneteria Aotearoa remains "open" 24/7 and, all going well, most orders will ship within the usual 24 hours from ordering (in a worst case scenario shipping will happen on the day of my return to Wellington, 26 September).

A last weekly SPECIAL for the time being has just started: the incredible Flamingo W400 Series; with and without chobo, lining, headband and including the brand new Exclusive Chasseurs Series, with discounts up to $35.00!

 

[Daan]

Many berets (boinas) in El extraño viaje, a 1964 Spanish black drama film directed by Fernando Fernán Gómez.

In a large house in the middle of a little Spanish town live Venancio and Paquita, the childlike brother and sister of Ignacia, who bullies them continuously. Suspecting that she has a visitor after dark, they start snooping and one night she turns on them in fury. As she is throttling Paquita, Venancio brains her with a bottle and the two hide the body. After leaving town in the dark by taxi, they are then found dead on a beach.

The house is put up for sale and the owner of the bar next door has to empty the vats where he was storing his wine. When at the bottom of one is found the corpse of Ignacia, her secret lover Fernando admits all to the examining magistrate. He was a member of the band that played in the bar in the evenings and used to slip into Ignacia's house after work.

When he found her dead, he helped Venancio and Paquita dispose of the body. Then he took them away to the sea, where he gave them knockout drops so that he could escape with Ignacia's money. Unfortunately, his dose was too powerful.

The film was a huge flop on its limited release. It was voted seventh best Spanish film by professionals and critics in 1996 Spanish cinema centenary.

 

[Daan]

In today's South Pacific Berets' newsletter the focus is on Crossbreeds, Hybrids and Alternative Berets.


A crossbreed(#1): the 'Clochard' or 'Tom Waits Hat' is not a beret, but surprisingly, the manufacturing process is practically identical. It is hard to believe, how one hat can be worn in so many variations!

Suitable for men and women, you can form a pork-pie hat, leave it a cloche or wear it like a beanie. With all the volume it offers, there is even space enough for dreadlocks!
Each hat comes with a small booklet for inspiration and options how to shape the hat.

100% Merino wool, in Emerald/Black, Grey-Mix/Black, Midnight-Blue/Black, Camo Green and Camo Black @ $55.55.

A crossbreed(#2): hats that are not really berets, but made in a very similar way on a SHIMA SEIKI Whole Garment Knitting Machine and a sudden bestseller since lasts month's introduction: Skullies.
Where the original series consisted of pure silk skullies only, South Pacific Berets is now proud to offer the same quality hats in linen (hemp), cotton and wool mélange.
Perfect hats to wear your 'round, be it summer or winter, chilly or hot; supreme Japanese craftsmanship with excellent water absorption and retention qualities.

Wear it Japanese style under your beret, covering the ears, in winter! Comfortable, breathable and stylish in a 100% natural and hi-tech materials.

A ‘hybrid”: the Shigematsu berets are universal models (pre-sized at 57.5cm but can easily be stretched to the largest head size). All models are made in the finest quality merino wool.

These berets are typical examples of Japanese berets with the raised roof of the beret and having a more plumb, rounded appearance. Available in 3 vibrant colours.

 

[Mm25]

Finally cool enough to get out hiking again. Green Elosegui.

 

[alanfgag]

Traveling mostly with berets these days. So much less to think about than toting a brimmed hat through airports, in restaurants... just have to decide which colors to take with. My black Elosegui is excellent in foul weather so is always in the mix. Here it is headed to a wedding in D.C. with a black suit and a bowtie made from feathers.

 

[Babbo Philipe]

nice tie

 

[Mm25]

At 12 inches and less densely felted than some others, this Boneteria Aotearoa drapes wonderfully. A real advantage during longer days outside while repositioning it to block the sun.

 

[Daan]

Homage to Jean-Claude Pertuzé​

Regular visitors of this forum need no introduction to Jean-Claude Pertuzé and his work, a boinero exceptionnelle.
In April next year it will be 4 years without his physical presence in this world (and I dare say, not many days go by without a thought of Jean-Claude).

I am incredibly glad with the initiative of a group of friends, fellow Lectourois, colleagues, admirers and relatives who formed a committee organizing various events to remember and honour Jean-Claude.

A regularly updated Facebook page "Hommage à Pertuzé - Lectoure mai 2024" has just gone live and I am honoured to see "Le magicien du béret" (the Beret Wizard) opening the site.

Many thanks to Michel Salanié and the many others for their great work.

Interesting detail: when you read the article in English via Google Translate, Google in all it's wisdom translates Pertuze as Piss... I do believe Jean-Claude would have appreciated this.

 

[Mm25]

Temps in the 20’s brought out the Laulhere alpin today.

 

[Mm25]

What a difference a few days can make. Ready to assist Santa, but with beret, as my elf hat clashes (it’s a bright orange red).

 

[Daan]

What a difference a few days can make. Ready to assist Santa, but with beret, as my elf hat clashes (it’s a bright orange red). View attachment 564061

What you need is a ‘Couvre Béret Blanc’!