Belstaff or Aero?

[Sloan1874]

Hi there, I'm investigating buying a decent leather jacket and I had been considering investing in a Belstaff Panther in brown - they've been redesigned for this season and a rather lovely, much more fitted than previous models - but at £1,200, I am, to say the least, a little reluctant to unleash the credit card. While looking into opinions about Belstaff quality/value for money, I kept picking up the name Aero and ended up at the website. I am now conflicted over which one to go for, and as all web paths seem to lead to The Fedora Lounge, and your advice seems sound, I thought I'd ask a few questions.

1. I'm concerned that the heavy duty nature of HH means that Aeros can be very boxy and square. Is this something that disappears with time as the leather softens?
2. I'm pretty slim - I'd be looking at a size 36 - and I'd be looking for the fit to be reasonably neat, able to accommodate a jumper but not, say, a bowling ball. Would something along the lines of the 1930s half belt or cossack come close to what I'm looking for?
3. I've read a few comments that it can be difficult getting the fit 'just so', is this something that is common experience? Fortunately, I live in Scotland and can go to the factory, but it's still an hour 40 journey, and I don' want to rack up endless journeys trying to get it right and be left dissatisfied.
4. Finally, when ordering changes, adjustments - beyond the pricey leather edging - does the price of a jacket start to rise exponentially?

Apologies if these seem obvious, but would really appreciate your help/advice/counselling on this subject.
Thanks!

 

[wdw]

I had 4 Belstaffs including the Panther and can safely say there's no comparison with Aero quality. The Panther is like tissue paper in comparison and is really just a badge to impress label snobs with.

Admittedly, Belstaffs look nice if you're slim, but I was always worried about puncturing or tearing them, which isn't something you can say about Aero.

I'd definitely recommend the trip to Galashiels to see what they do there. If Will's there he'll go out of his way to discuss things with you. Each time I was there he spent about 75 minutes with me and was a real pleasure to deal with. Plus you'll save hundreds over Belstaff.

 

[Graemsay]

If it has to be a Belstaff then get one of the motorcycle range, rather than a fashion jacket. They tend to be a lot cheaper, and being designed for falling off bikes, more durable. Urban Rider, Holden (prices exclude the dreaded VAT ), and Moto Legends are the best places to start.

Scott Leathers make a version of the shorter Belstaff jackets, which are significantly cheaper than the originals, at around £300 or £400. Probably better sewn together. They can be done made-to-measure too, just ask for them to leave the armour out. They're not on the website though.

The only issue is that they can be slow at delivery.

As for Aero, I think that if you go to the factory then Will should be able to sort out the fit. The front quarter horsehide does soften up over time, but it takes a long time to break it in. There are other options, for example the oil pull is a lot softer.

 

[Davy Crockett]

I agree with what WDW has to say, Aero is in a completely different league to Belstaff, far superior!, also I have had two jackets custom made by Aero and made a single visit to Galashiels for each jacket, I would phone beforehand to check Will is going to be there (if you are in a hurry he can sort you out in 5 mins'), on breaking the jacket in I wore my FQHH stockman as much as possible and it felt very comfortable after 2-3 months, some on here make it seem like a chore breaking it in I personally didn't find it a problem.

D

 

[Jeff M]

Aero.

 

[Sloan1874]

Interesting. Two months doesn't bother me too much. Part of me worried that it could look a little 'industrial' but I really love the look of the cordovan - I suspect the problem is that the majority of high street/designer jackets are very soft/thin, so that they drape on to you, so when you see proper bit of hide, it's a bit of a shock. I'm guessing there's plenty of opportunities to try on various styles. I think I can hear me talking myself into it - has to be be said the idea of coughing up £1,200 for off-the-peg, when i could get something bespoke for half the price does seem a big of a no-brainer. Out of interest, does anyone know if they charge extra for different tartans?

 

[Davy Crockett]

No extra charge for any of over 500 different ones in three weights of tartan, no extra charge for anything else either unless you want leather inside hems which Will reckons arn't needed anyway!

D

 

[wdw]

Like Graemsay said, it doesn't need to be FQHH if you're worried about stiffness. No matter what Aero make it from, it'll be far superior to Belstafff.

Despite all the butch-sounding blurb from Belstaff about how tough the Panther is, it reminds me of the scene in Crocodile Dundee where a guy pulls a knife on him. To paraphrase - "Call that a leather jacket? - This is a leather jacket!"

 

[ButteMT61]

FQHH is not easy to break in. But once done, it's peerless. Look at some of the pics in the lounge. I've never owned a Belstaff, but I have owned many Aeros. Cowhide is nice too, and a bit easier to break in. Looks about as good, but doesn't smell quite as good. Splitting hairs, but either is awesome and good for riding gear.

 

[trapp]

Man, if you live just a short trip from the Aero factory, go to the factory! No doubt you'll learn a lot and probably end up with a stunning jacket.

If you end up going with Belstaff, go vintage. The older ones are better jackets.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Your question can only be answered by you - what do you want the item for? How will it be worn? What are your expectations? They are such different products. I personally do not like Belstaff's products and I'm not a huge Aero fan, but one of those companies - Aero - produces leather jackets built to be handed down generations. The other company produces clothes Brad Pitt wears in movies. And that's okay too if that's what you want. I don't like much of the heavy leather Aero uses. I find it uncomfortable (takes a year or more to break in if it's FQHH) and it's unnecessarily tough if you're not a bike rider. But their other leathers are pretty cool and easier on the shoulders. Aero jacket patterns are very cool. Why not find a place to try some on and see what you think.

 

[Jeff M]

FWIW, it may be worth it for you to take the time to go to Aero and see what they have to offer.
Unless you actually can get your hands on their leather..it's hard to know what you will think of it.
They DO offer more than just FQHH. They have a medium weight HH, steer hide, goat, and occasional "exotic" leathers.

I happen to be a big fan of Aero's FQHH.
It IS stiff when you first get it.
I break it in by wearing it outside during rain storms...walking around, doing odd outside chores to move my arms/shoulders/chest, then letting it air dry...no blow drier/heating vents near by.
Just doing this one time breaks it in an amazing amount...moulding it to your body, "aging" it beautifully.
Can't think of any other leather that looks/wears the same as Aero's FQHH broken in.

If you can tollerate spending a while walking around in the rain till the leather gets soaked...the pay off is well worth it in my opinion.
That's just their FQHH. Their other leathers are first class too. Lots to choose from. Timeless designs. Hard to beat service.
Toss in the the fact that they custom make their jackets to your measurements...stand behind the product 100%.....hard to beat.
I wish I lived only a couple of hours from their operation. I'd pop down there in a heartbeat to see what they have hidden in the back room and to have them take my measurements to have on file.

Belstaff...
Just depends.
If the current "in" design is what you are looking for, you are happy with "off the rack" sizing, and you don't mind paying for (and wearing) the logo they put on the outside of their leather jackets, definitely worth a look.

 

[Graemsay]

Breaking in an Aero front quarter horsehide jacket is quite a long term proposition. It'll take a couple of years for it to really soften up properly, but when it does it's fantastic. If you visit Aero, ask Will if he can show you his old Highwayman or Barnstormer, because they are spectacular.

If the stiffness isn't appealing, then they also use horsehide in oil pull (which ages spectacularly), vintage (lightly distressed and softened), jerky (has an uneven finish) and midweight (thinner and softer). And that's before you start on goat, kudu or steerhide.

I'm a big fan of Aero's work, less so of Belstaff, though they do some very nice jackets. If you want to consider other alternatives, then Eastman, Lost Worlds (though you'll run into the same stiffness issues as Aero), Buzz Rickson, Lewis Leathers, Pegasus and Good Wear would all be worth looking at.

 

[Sloan1874]

This is all great stuff! Right, so to recap: 1. yes, the leather is stiff, but half the fun is wearing it in; 2. ideally, I should go along to the factory to get best result in terms of fitting; 3. Belstaff are nice, but there probably is a huge price inflation because of the 'name' - interestingly, they've ditched the little enamel name plates that are stitched on to the arm because they have a habit of snapping; 5. There are other types of leather and finish that are a little softer.
These are all good and useful things to know - I have a tendency to keep jackets/clothes until they give up the ghost completely, so I'm willing to invest a little more than average to get it something that will go the distance and then some.
Given the wealth of knowledge and experience here - I bow to Butte's collection, you must have a reinforced wardrobe to hold your jackets - and that I plan to get over there in the next couple of weeks (was going to go this Saturday but sadly they keep office hours) what tips and advice can you offer in terms of details, finishes and linings? I apologise for the long posts, but when it comes to a big ticket item, I tend to do a lot of research before buying - also, I like to think that these are the sorts of questions that a lot of first time buyers ask, so they can pick up on it too. Thanks!

 

[wdw]

My advice would be don't over-modify just because you can and Aero do it for nothing, especially on your first jacket. Maybe one or two inside pockets and possibly a hem strip. Measure the lengths of jackets you have, compare that to the standard Aero lengths and don't vary back length by more than an inch unless you're much above or below their standard 5'10" or 11" model.

When you're there you'll see all the different leathers and styles and with a bit of luck they might even have the style you want in your size so that you can try it on and adjust from there. As it's a 3 month wait, you should start thinking ahead for your second and third jackets, 'cos come they surely will.

 

[ando.thun]

The Shop where I first saw Aero Leather jackets sold out Belstaff after they changed their customer group from rugged users to stylish wearers.

If you go down to the Aero Factory let Will show you the Highwayman made from Kudu leather (not the goatskin like glossy one).
It hangs on the rack in the first room of their museum.

The Weight is nearly that of FQHH and you can read every detail of the antelopes life.

Be aware that they close their shop after lunch on Friday.

I had an idea about the style and as I have some problems with wool the lining was set to cotton drill. For the rest I let Will take me trough the ordering process and he spent nearly two hours doing so.

 

[Sloan1874]

Sounds a bit like getting a bespoke suit: the less bells and whistles, the better. Very keen to actually see one of these things in the flesh, so to speak, given the variety of opinions on the stiffness of the leather, time to break in etc - given that I live in Scotland, dreich weather is never far away, so that may speed up the process. One of the things I've read is that the cordorvan colouring can 'bleed' quite heavily at first. Does anyone have experience of that?

 

[ButteMT61]

Here's my FQHH 50's HBD after two weeks in the rain/wind in Paris/Normandy/UK.
Got wet/dry a lot and you can see it started breaking in...

 

[tonypaj]

... what tips and advice can you offer in terms of details, finishes and linings? ...

The fit is the most important, if you visit them that is not an issue anymore. Then I would look at:

1) Cuffs, they have options there. Tastes vary.
2) Back, can be bi-swing, simple, whatever suits you.
3) Lining, they have lots of choices there, from simple stuff to beautiful tartans.
4) Pockets (all of them, inside and out) and the linings there, the zippers if needed, the choice is all yours.

I lucked on a jacket that I absolutely love, a mix of a Stuart and and an A-2, and after that I am OK with just experimenting, and keeping stock other stuff, an A-2, B-3, Highwayman, etc.

Anyway, nothing beats seeing the jackets, feeling them and trying them on. And another anyway, your preferences will change in a year. I guarantee you that just because you are asking questions on this board

 

[too much coffee]

Here's my FQHH 50's HBD after two weeks in the rain/wind in Paris/Normandy/UK.
Got wet/dry a lot and you can see it started breaking in...

When do you get the burn bandages off Scott?

Great hide man!