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BARBISIO Brothers

Messages
15,072
Location
Buffalo, NY
Excellent! I thought that the Bulgarian sold rat-gondin was odd for using the French for nutria (you have seen this hat, I think). Is this nom for the fur in Italian too?
 
Messages
18,379
Location
Nederland
Excellent! I thought that the Bulgarian sold rat-gondin was odd for using the French for nutria (you have seen this hat, I think). Is this nom for the fur in Italian too?
I think the French influence on hat-terminology (and fashion in general) was more dominant before the war. I've read that of the Dutch hat-industry as well: all the technical terms used there were French (at least in origin). It was actually the term that caught my eye to this hat, having seen it on your hat.
 

Daniele Tanto

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,217
Location
Verona - Italia
I was very pleased to get this one. I'm a fan of Barbisio hats and it's the brand I own most hats of, after Borsalino. Barbisio Rat Gondin (that's nutria to you and me) in a size 56, with the raw edge brim at 6cm and the crown 11cm at the pinch. The label has faded unfortunately, but I think the colour is Umbria.
This is the earliest Barbisio hat I have seen. It was sold by Pietro Radiconcini&Figlio of Rome. There are several hats sold by Radiconcini posted on the lounge, but usually that is Alfredo Radiconcini, being the "Figlio" of Pietro.
barbisio-rat_01-jpg.149115
In the myriad of excellent and superb hats that "Santa Claus" Stefan publishes repeatedly these days, this is memorable for me. Soon said: it is one of the oldest Barbisio I have seen. It is for the shape, the finish, the absence of the lining and the tip under the crown that is synonymous for many European hats of "very old age"; Iforget the shop where it was sold. I could tell you that the color is magnificent, a classic in the Barbisio variants, but I would repeat myself.
One of the Italian hats, together a few that belong to the first half of the last century.
PS! The french terminology in Italian hats production was very vivid, Borsalino docet with his French sizes
 
Messages
15,072
Location
Buffalo, NY
Daniele, thanks. I'll chalk this one up as another (very) worthy Italian hat saved.

Thanks you for your wonderful photos Stefan... a pleasure to study. I just wandered through the entire Barbisio thread (so many photos missing) hunting for older examples and as you and Daniele have already remarked, there are precious few that appear to be from the first half of the 20th century. I find three candidates which I've copied below for reference:

This hat posted by Steve shows the Barbisio logotype with script lettering, featured in many of the early posters and ads and different than the one we see frequently where the exclamation point symbol is laced through the "B".

26310530074_4ee9e3f7cf_b.jpg


26848437041_dd6c67a40c_b.jpg


It has the manufacturing label that only appears in one other hat:

26822417122_2c06972368_b.jpg


... the narrow Bulgarian homburg that I purchased from Dinerman:

barbisio4.jpg


The rondel in this rat-gondin homburg is the same as the one used in Stefan's new addition, also rat-gondin:

IMG_1373.jpg


barbisio-rat_07-jpg.149121


The label is different than above, but also different than almost all of the hats shown on this thread, appearing to have a tightly spaced perforation on two sides. I wish we could see the markings of model/color:

barbisio-rat_13-jpg.149127


The sweatband imprints have the quality of an older manufacture, though I believe it follows the two homburg style hats in age.

barbisio-rat_09-jpg.149123


There is one other hat whose liner shows the earlier script logotype as in these postecards of Steve's, but I've lost the page and am out of time to go back and find it again.

3904276922_0e82b1361c_b.jpg


Of course manufacturing labels and liners and sweatbands are parts... parts that might have been older stock that were used and reused as inventories ran short in wartime and supplies were needed. I hope someday we will have more early examples to compare!
 
Messages
18,379
Location
Nederland
Thanks you for your wonderful photos Stefan... a pleasure to study. I just wandered through the entire Barbisio thread (so many photos missing) hunting for older examples and as you and Daniele have already remarked, there are precious few that appear to be from the first half of the 20th century. I find three candidates which I've copied below for reference:

This hat posted by Steve shows the Barbisio logotype with script lettering, featured in many of the early posters and ads and different than the one we see frequently where the exclamation point symbol is laced through the "B".

26310530074_4ee9e3f7cf_b.jpg


26848437041_dd6c67a40c_b.jpg


It has the manufacturing label that only appears in one other hat:

26822417122_2c06972368_b.jpg


... the narrow Bulgarian homburg that I purchased from Dinerman:

barbisio4.jpg


The rondel in this rat-gondin homburg is the same as the one used in Stefan's new addition, also rat-gondin:

View attachment 149462

barbisio-rat_07-jpg.149121


The label is different than above, but also different than almost all of the hats shown on this thread, appearing to have a tightly spaced perforation on two sides. I wish we could see the markings of model/color:

barbisio-rat_13-jpg.149127


The sweatband imprints have the quality of an older manufacture, though I believe it follows the two homburg style hats in age.

barbisio-rat_09-jpg.149123


There is one other hat whose liner shows the earlier script logotype as in these postecards of Steve's, but I've lost the page and am out of time to go back and find it again.

3904276922_0e82b1361c_b.jpg


Of course manufacturing labels and liners and sweatbands are parts... parts that might have been older stock that were used and reused as inventories ran short in wartime and supplies were needed. I hope someday we will have more early examples to compare!
Thanks for this comparison, Alan. I must go through the whole thread again myself (if only to look at these great hats again). I'll ask Daniele if he can dig up something about the store history (I came up empty-handed). That could help us with the time frame.
 
Messages
18,379
Location
Nederland
I received this hat Saturday and I was trying to post pictures of it .I seem to be having problems. It is a Barbisio, made of Nutria. It ha a 3 1/4 to 3 3/8 brim. it looks like a cowboy hat to me. Dis Barbisio ever make cowboy hats?
Barbisio probably made the widest variety of hats. Very rarely they were western style hats though. I have only seen one, which looks like this:
barbisio cowboy_02.jpg
barbisio cowboy_05.jpg
barbisio cowboy_06.jpg


Yours seems to be in a western style too though. Love to see more pics of it.
 

AbbaDatDeHat

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,824
Messages
18,379
Location
Nederland
Cow Boy that is awesome!

Thanks, Alan!
Hey Stefan. I like this hat. Quite unusual.
How wide is the brim? Maybe you could talk about it some?? Thanks
Bowen
I posted it before here, but only with thumbnail pics and without its information, so here it is again.

Barbisio Cow Boy in a size 58. Bound brim at 9cm (3 5/8" or thereabouts) and crown 11cm in the front. Fairly stiff for a European hat and blocked quite round (it holds on to the front and back of my head if I wear it). Probably never worn; the basting stitches are still in the two-tone ribbed ribbon. Probably made for the south American market ("fabricacion especiale" on the liner).

barbisio cowboy_01.jpg
barbisio cowboy_02.jpg
barbisio cowboy_03.jpg
barbisio cowboy_04.jpg
barbisio cowboy_05.jpg
barbisio cowboy_06.jpg
barbisio cowboy_07.jpg
barbisio cowboy_09.jpg
barbisio cowboy_11.jpg
barbisio cowboy_12.jpg
 

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