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Balmoral Boots

MB5

One of the Regulars
Messages
205
Location
Oregon
I was looking through this great collection of images for inspiration for my first attempt at bootmaking and was quite excited by UK-15718 in Flat Foot Floey's post "Some french balmoral boots from the fall/winter 1933/34 catalog "Au bon marche"". In my leatherwork I like to avoid seams whenever possible, but I really wanted to start with Balmoral boots. Is the UK-15718 Brodequin a 1933/34 example of a wholecut Balmoral boot?

boot.jpg

The catalog designates it as simply Boot rather than Balmoral, but the image looks like a wholecut Balmoral and the description translates as:

Boot, box calf
black, double leather sole, seamless, heel sewn.

Admittedly the boot does have a pull strap, but that feature does appear on Balmoral boots from other makers and the boot could still be completely seamless under the strap.

Thoughts?

And thank you for your input!
 
Last edited:

LuvMyMan

I’ll Lock Up.
Messages
4,558
Location
Michigan
I was looking through this great collection of images for inspiration for my first attempt at bootmaking and was quite excited by UK-15718 in Flat Foot Floey's post "Some french balmoral boots from the fall/winter 1933/34 catalog "Au bon marche"". In my leatherwork I like to avoid seams whenever possible, but I really wanted to start with Balmoral boots. Is the UK-15718 Brodequin a 1933/34 example of a wholecut Balmoral boot?

View attachment 13921

The catalog designates it as simply Boot rather than Balmoral, but the image looks like a wholecut Balmoral and the description translates as:

Boot, box calf
black, double leather sole, seamless, heel sewn.

Admittedly the boot does have a pull strap, but that feature does appear on Balmoral boots from other makers and the boot could still be completely seamless under the strap.

Thoughts?

And thank you for your input!

Hard to tell from the illustration, however, if you like them and can make a pair, then go for it!
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
saw some very nice Alden boots today (in Liberty, London) but can't find an image of them online. they were black toe cap derbys (not balmorals), with a good in-curved ankle (the bit me and Rudie keep going on about no one getting right ... at least someone is doing it !)
very 20s-30s looking. dressy-work boots.
 

Rudie

Call Me a Cab
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2,069
Location
Berlin
Yes. Alas, way too narrow for me. I can't even get my feet inside. Custom made in 1915 and never worn.
 

Rudie

Call Me a Cab
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2,069
Location
Berlin
But they don't do it.

Look at Aero's offering:
8595345543d549d4_Glacey%20side.jpg


They want to do the right thing, but they fail miserably.
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
i mean someone like us would have to go to the factory with the original boot, and oversee the copying of it - without compromise - ... then order a limited run.
it would require money obviously.
 

Rudie

Call Me a Cab
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2,069
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Berlin
Obviously. But at Aero's they wanted to reproduce a shoe just like that. They could have done it, but they compromised like there's no tomorrow. If they offered a shoe like that I am sure they would make more profit than with their current model. Because it's something nobody else offers.
 

Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
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2,277
Location
Germany
Rudie, I probably lack the eye for boots... but what details do you dislike regarding the Aero boot?
The curve of the ankle?
 

Rudie

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2,069
Location
Berlin
The sole is just flat, mine have a nice curve. They just batched on a modern shaped sole. The toebox also looks flat and uninspired. And, of course, the ankle curve.
 

Fastuni

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Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
I've got two pairs of ankle boots, which I can't date... (brown and black).
Will post some photos tomorrow, as you guys are certainly more knowledgeable than me on this.
 

Two Types

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,456
Location
London, UK
i'm sure those boots could be reproduced exactly (but wider) by a Northampton factory.

It would be interesting to find out if any of the factories could reproduce that ankle curve and narrow waist now. I don't know enough about the technical side of boot making to know whether it's easily reproduced. But I do know the right man to ask.
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
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6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
It would be interesting to find out if any of the factories could reproduce that ankle curve and narrow waist now.

i'm certain it could be done, it would just be a question of who's willing to stump up the cash.
i heard that modern one-piece lasts would be difficult to get out of a narrow-waisted boot, but since the lasts would have to be created especially for this Edwardian style boot anyway, they could also be made as the earlier three-piece last.
 
Last edited:

Fastuni

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,277
Location
Germany
Got those two deadstock ankle boots...

I figure that the brown ones are newer, but can you guys tell something about the likeliest age?

SAM_7135.jpg

SAM_7130.jpg
 

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