Ask a question, get an answer

[Emilis]

My head measure is 59cm...when making a hat for myself I block it on a 60cm sized long oval block. I sew in a size 59.3cm leather sweat as I like my hats to fit just slightly loose.

I see... and what about the part with putting a piece of felt on top of the block, before putting the actual capeline that I will be working with? How would you recommend me to control the thickness, so I wouldn't over do it?

 

[belfastboy]

I see... and what about the part with putting a piece of felt on top of the block, before putting the actual capeline that I will be working with? How would you recommend me to control the thickness, so I wouldn't over do it?

I don't know as I have never used that method. I plan to try another method using painter's tape (easy to remove) as a base and then a layer or two of thick duct tape (Gorilla Tape is a good brand). But we shall see how well that works. My experience in a general sense is when I try to "make do" or adapt a tool for something else it never really turns out all that well. At least not as well as it would have turned out if I had used the proper tool, or proper size for the job. But others may have different experiences than me.

 

[Mark Chmielewski]

Never noticed that before. There's an interesting book on the history of Lock&Co by Frank Whitbourn. Here's a link to it.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mr-Lock-St...eywords=frank+whitbourn&qid=1589110601&sr=8-2
James Lock the hatter was born in 1731, so well after Lock&Co was "founded". The date of 1676 refers to the establishment of a previous hatter on the same location, called Robert Davis, hatter and hosier, who rented the place from a George James Lock. So to say that Lock&Co was founded in 1676 is a bit misleading and you'd think that a date of 1759, when James Lock took over, would be provenance enough. Likely the different imprints were used over different time periods and perhaps for different markets and took in consideration the different legal rules for brand protection and copyright. I don't have enough Lock&Co hats to be able to say which ones were used in what time-period.

Thanks Steur. That was helpful, especially about the book. I wonder if there is a way to find out more about the imprints/logos

 

[Emilis]

I don't know as I have never used that method. I plan to try another method using painter's tape (easy to remove) as a base and then a layer or two of thick duct tape (Gorilla Tape is a good brand). But we shall see how well that works. My experience in a general sense is when I try to "make do" or adapt a tool for something else it never really turns out all that well. At least not as well as it would have turned out if I had used the proper tool, or proper size for the job. But others may have different experiences than me.

That is a very interesting idea... When are you planning to do it more or less, if I may ask?

 

[belfastboy]

That is a very interesting idea... When are you planning to do it more or less, if I may ask?

The blocks I ordered are stuck in Poland as the mail is not going from Poland to Canada....so until I get my blocks I am stuck. I do have one block in a 59 and the border to the USA opens for me I can travel down to my US located motor home that is loaded with 15 felts. If I can access them I will try it out in the making of a hat for me but who knows when the border will reopen.

 

[Emilis]

The blocks I ordered are stuck in Poland as the mail is not going from Poland to Canada....so until I get my blocks I am stuck. I do have one block in a 59 and the border to the USA opens for me I can travel down to my US located motor home that is loaded with 15 felts. If I can access them I will try it out in the making of a hat for me but who knows when the border will reopen.

Understood. If you could keep me posted in regards to this, I would greatly appreciate it!

 

[belfastboy]

Understood. If you could keep me posted in regards to this, I would greatly appreciate it!

the closest I have come to this is watching a milliner do it with a small block for a woman's hat. The felt went over the block easily but it was a small headed lady and a light weight felt.

 

[Emilis]

the closest I have come to this is watching a milliner do it with a small block for a woman's hat. The felt went over the block easily but it was a small headed lady and a light weight felt.

I see. Well, I'm thinking of putting a wool felt hat body on the hatblock, and then use a fur felt capeline... What do you think?

And ir regards to 'one size bigger'... is it just 1mm bigger? or a particular amount of milimetres?

 

[Emilis]

A few more questions...

1) I need opinions on elastic sweatbands... What are the pros and cons in having them? How are they versus leather sweatbands?

2) I'm attaching a picture in regards to this question. What is the purpose of having a ridge like that? Is it a dead giveaway that it has a milliners wire? Or is it more of a aesthetic thing? Maybe all of the above?

Thank you for you answers!

 

[belfastboy]

I see. Well, I'm thinking of putting a wool felt hat body on the hatblock, and then use a fur felt capeline... What do you think?

And ir regards to 'one size bigger'... is it just 1mm bigger? or a particular amount of milimetres?

Google "Hat Sizing Chart" It will give you the dimensions in centimetres for each hat size. I am an exact 59cm so when I block a hat for myself I block it on one that measures 60cm. So it needs to be at least 1 centimetre larger to accommodate a leather sweat.

 

[belfastboy]

A few more questions...

1) I need opinions on elastic sweatbands... What are the pros and cons in having them? How are they versus leather sweatbands?

2) I'm attaching a picture in regards to this question. What is the purpose of having a ridge like that? Is it a dead giveaway that it has a milliners wire? Or is it more of a aesthetic thing? Maybe all of the above?

Thank you for you answers!

1.It depends on what you want to make. Only the cheapest of hats use cloth sweat bands. If you want to make a cheap hat then you can use cloth.

2. I cannot tell from the picture what you are asking. The picture is of the outside of a hat ….no image of a sweat band.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

A few more questions...

1) I need opinions on elastic sweatbands... What are the pros and cons in having them? How are they versus leather sweatbands?

2) I'm attaching a picture in regards to this question. What is the purpose of having a ridge like that? Is it a dead giveaway that it has a milliners wire? Or is it more of a aesthetic thing? Maybe all of the above?

Thank you for you answers!

I’ve never owned nor seen an elastic sweatband. A quality leather sweatband isn’t expensive, so why use anything else? Some do prefer cloth sweatbands on straw hats, but I’ve never heard of elastic. Personally, I like leather on straw hats.

 

[belfastboy]

I’ve never owned nor seen an elastic sweatband. A quality leather sweatband isn’t expensive, so why use anything else? Some do prefer cloth sweatbands on straw hats, but I’ve never heard of elastic. Personally, I like leather on straw hats.

Yes, If I have a decent straw hat with a cloth sweat I have been sending them out to replace with leather. Guy Morse Brown sells leather sweats and he is very reasonably priced.

 

[carouselvic]

I’ve never owned nor seen an elastic sweatband. A quality leather sweatband isn’t expensive, so why use anything else? Some do prefer cloth sweatbands on straw hats, but I’ve never heard of elastic. Personally, I like leather on straw hats.

They are used quite often in kids western hats, so as they grow they fit an ever expanding head. They are sewn in a funnel shape(like a minnow trap).

 

[deadlyhandsome]

They are used quite often in kids western hats, so as they grow they fit an ever expanding head. They are sewn in a funnel shape(like a minnow trap).

Ahh, I have seen those, but I’ve never handled one. Makes sense when kids are growing.

 

[belfastboy]

Ahh, I have seen those, but I’ve never handled one. Makes sense when kids are growing.

I think therein lies Emilis' answer.....they would work fine as long as he plans to make children's cowboy hats.

 

[Woodtroll]

Ahh, I have seen those, but I’ve never handled one. Makes sense when kids are growing.

But, they feel like wearing a pair of underwear on your head (not that I ever did that, as a kid, I mean...).

 

[belfastboy]

But, they feel like wearing a pair of underwear on your head (not that I ever did that, as a kid, I mean...).

"Jockey" branded or "Fruit of the Loom" branded hats?

 

[Emilis]

I’ve never owned nor seen an elastic sweatband. A quality leather sweatband isn’t expensive, so why use anything else? Some do prefer cloth sweatbands on straw hats, but I’ve never heard of elastic. Personally, I like leather on straw hats.

The reason being that you can basically make a 'one size fits all' type of hat. One brand makes some of their hats with a elastic sweatband, and it states that heads sized 56cm to 60cm can wear them.

 

[Emilis]

1.It depends on what you want to make. Only the cheapest of hats use cloth sweat bands. If you want to make a cheap hat then you can use cloth.

2. I cannot tell from the picture what you are asking. The picture is of the outside of a hat ….no image of a sweat band.

In regards to the 2nd question, I was talking about the edge of the brim, not the sweatband. Sorry for confusing you kind sir!