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[deadlyhandsome]

I have been told it is a good idea to freeze the hat for three days. After thawing, I would submerge it in a white gas bath overnight.


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Overnight in white gas? If your just looking to kill any vermin that sounds like overkill to me. I’ve never left a hat to soak for more than an hour.


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[Benzadmiral]

Hey, hat folk,

My long-time barber is in need of a new lid. He mentioned it Saturday, and I inspected his current hat: a Dorfman Pacific cotton canvas model, short-brimmed, size S, stained by years of rain. He said the model line was "Panama Jack," which I thought sold only straws these days. He needs a 6 7/8 (I popped my own size 7 on his, and he found it too loose) or a Small, and would like a light color -- his is white, or nearly white. Any suggestions of websites and particular brands I can try?

ETA: He is no kind of an Internet shopper; his phone is used only for calls and for checking Gas Buddy. So sending him a link or a gift certificate may not work too well.

 

[TheOldFashioned]

Hey, hat folk,

My long-time barber is in need of a new lid. He mentioned it Saturday, and I inspected his current hat: a Dorfman Pacific cotton canvas model, short-brimmed, size S, stained by years of rain. He said the model line was "Panama Jack," which I thought sold only straws these days. He needs a 6 7/8 (I popped my own size 7 on his, and he found it too loose) or a Small, and would like a light color -- his is white, or nearly white. Any suggestions of websites and particular brands I can try?

ETA: He is no kind of an Internet shopper; his phone is used only for calls and for checking Gas Buddy. So sending him a link or a gift certificate may not work too well.

Not sure if you want to try this path or not but there are a plethora of vintage 6-7/8 used hats, often in good/great condition, on eBay. You could probably score one at a very reasonable price as the demand is relatively low. Personally, I think it would make a nice gift since he's taken care of you for so long as your barber. Or perhaps you could just trade it for a free shave and a hair cut?

 

[Rmccamey]

DelMonico has a nice array of hats in the $50-$80 if you want something new. As others have said, eBay has a lot of the vintage models at reasonable prices. You might also check the Facebook marketplace. In my part of Texas, there are tons of cowboy hats and, for some reason, stingy brims on the FB market. I've had great luck offering people 1/3 or 1/4 of their asking price and it is usually local pickup, so you don't have to pay the shipping charge.

 

[Benzadmiral]

Delmonico didn't seem to have anything like the model I was looking for. I tried the actual Panama Jack website, and they say they have a small: https://www.panamajack.com/men-s-cl...l-canvas-safari-hat-hpj39nc-na-2x#tab-reviews This looks exactly like the one he has, except he has curled the rear brim up, and his has lost the black PJ label.

 

[RJR]

Delmonico didn't seem to have anything like the model I was looking for. I tried the actual Panama Jack website, and they say they have a small: https://www.panamajack.com/men-s-cl...l-canvas-safari-hat-hpj39nc-na-2x#tab-reviews This looks exactly like the one he has, except he has curled the rear brim up, and his has lost the black PJ label.

I've seen quite a few PJs on eBay $20/30.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

Yup, ebay...search Trilby, PJ etc. You’ll be there all day.

 

[Benzadmiral]

I decided to go with the new hat from Panama Jack. There's always the chance that an eBay find might not fit or not be in as good condition as described. Thanks, guys.

(Phil, my barber, has been cutting my hair -- except for my time in Colorado -- since 1979, not long after he opened his shop. He's a decorated Vietnam vet. And the day he and his business partner Frank graduated from barber college was . . .

. . . wait for it . . .

. . . Nov. 22, 1963. Hard day to forget --)

 

[Rmccamey]

You might also check out Panama Hats Direct the next time you are looking.

 

[belfastboy]

For me it depends on the condition. At the least I give it thorough steaming and a brushing. If the felt is dirty it gets the naptha bath and if the liner is stained I give it a woolite washing. And finally the leather sweat gets a cleaning and conditioning.
The naptha bath can give amazing results. I have had hats that at first glance did not seem dirty but depending on how they were stored years of dust build up can really flatten the felt colour. A naptha bath can really bring back the colour and it really freshens the felt.

I decided to go with the new hat from Panama Jack. There's always the chance that an eBay find might not fit or not be in as good condition as described. Thanks, guys.

(Phil, my barber, has been cutting my hair -- except for my time in Colorado -- since 1979, not long after he opened his shop. He's a decorated Vietnam vet. And the day he and his business partner Frank graduated from barber college was . . .

. . . wait for it . . .

. . . Nov. 22, 1963. Hard day to forget --)

This is impressive. As a guy who changes barbers more frequently than socks this blows me away.

 

[Hat Masterson]

Thanks for all the feedback on cleaning, I am assuming white gas/naptha/etc. are othr names for what I think of as Coleman camp gas, right? And when you dunk a hat in that it doesn't a) ruin it, or b) stink when you wear it next? Or make your hair stink, for that matter? Shoot. I have no doubt it will kill the creepy crawlies.

 

[belfastboy]

Thanks for all the feedback on cleaning, I am assuming white gas/naptha/etc. are othr names for what I think of as Coleman camp gas, right? And when you dunk a hat in that it doesn't a) ruin it, or b) stink when you wear it next? Or make your hair stink, for that matter? Shoot. I have no doubt it will kill the creepy crawlies.

The first time I attempted it I must admit it was a big leap of faith. BUT damned if it didn't turn out fine. If it is a fur felt hat it will come out better than before. The naptha refreshes the felt in some weird sciencey kind of way. And the odour gasses off very quickly and completely.

 

[belfastboy]

For me it depends on the condition. At the least I give it thorough steaming and a brushing. If the felt is dirty it gets the naptha bath and if the liner is stained I give it a woolite washing. And finally the leather sweat gets a cleaning and conditioning.
The naptha bath can give amazing results. I have had hats that at first glance did not seem dirty but depending on how they were stored years of dust build up can really flatten the felt colour. A naptha bath can really bring back the colour and it really freshens the felt.

This is impressive. As a guy who changes barbers more frequently than socks this blows me away.

Although now that my pate is thinning the equation is starting to even out as my trips to the barber become so much less frequent.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Hi, Frunobulax, deadlyhandsome, and All,

Thank you for your comments, and thoughts on this, Gentlemen. Much appreciated! From some of the reading I've done, whilst casting about on the 'net, I found an interesting article posted on the Bernard Hat Co. site. I also see that they are offering inexpensive wool fedoras, with the "Durafelt" name added. I do think that this hat of mine is of far better quality than what they are selling as "Durafelt". Bernard Co., however, does offer a glimpse into the history of the Mallory Hat Co.:

http://bernardhats.com/hat-companies/mallory-hat-company/

It appears my liner has the earlier date of 1817, which I have read, may mean it's a little later than I thought. Again, I certainly don't know. But, I do love the hat, and look forward to wearing it often.

On the day when I got the Mallory, in the same worn, Resistol hat box, was a black Resistol Fedora, which is the same 7 3/8 size. This one does not feel quite a nice as the Mallory, but it it's still very nice, fits great, and looks good. Inside sweat band is stamped with "Self-Conforming" and "Bonded Edge". In the front of the band is "Kitten Finish XXX Mark III", and the hat was originally sold by the Daytons Men's stores. I bought them both for $35, each, and thought it was a very good deal. Neither hat looks like it was worn much, if any. When time permits, I'll take and post photos of the Resistol, too.

One thing I've learned, in my years of owning and wearing quality hats, is that there is always something more to learn! I very much appreciate The Fedora Lounge for offering us all a great place to continue our learning, through sharing and helping each other get more information, so the learning continues!! Well done, Gentlemen, and much appreciated!!

Oh, one last comment, re: these hats: To me, the Mallory looks older, and of better quality than the Resistol. The seller of the Mallory was Kulstad Bros, in River Falls, WI and Farmington, MN, and the Resistol was sold by Dayton's Men's Store. When we lived in Minneapolis, MN, back in the 1980's, Dayton's was still going strong, but I don't recall the Kulstad Bros. Both stores have/had a long and interesting history, from what I've seen so far! Fun stuff, no matter how you slice it! Take care, and God Bless!

Every Good Wish,
Doc

PS - A bit more info: Kulstad Bros Men's store opened up in Farmington, MN, in 1912. Dayton's was opened in 1902. Both of these sellers had very long, and respected histories. I would LOVE to find some old ads from both stores, from the 1940-1950 era!!

Doc, I know this has been addressed, but I just found this Dynafelt (not Durafelt) hat that goes to show the diversity of materials that have used similar names:

The vintage hat world can drive you crazy with the lack of uniformity and the changing definitions.


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[Air Wing Marine]

Does anyone know who makes a hat like the one worn by Inspektor Rath in the German TV series Babylon Berlin?

 

[Air Wing Marine]

Does anyone know who makes a hat like the one worn by Inspektor Rath in the German TV series Babylon Berlin?

 

[deadlyhandsome]

View attachment 148183 Does anyone know who makes a hat like the one worn by Inspektor Rath in the German TV series Babylon Berlin?

I think unless you’re able to handle the props there’s no real way of telling. I have very similar hats from a few different makers. What size are you linking for; maybe I can make you a deal


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[Air Wing Marine]

7 3/8 to 7 1/2

 

[jlee562]

Opinions welcome, maybe I'm overreacting?

My overpriced black friday Worth and Worth hat arrived and I was supremely underwhelmed. I expected to not be impressed with the weave count (I understood this purchase to be as much about the artistic work put into the hat as much as the hat itself) and a hat that wasn't going to have super crisp blocked lines, because that is their style. But I immediately drifted to a few flaws in the weave...




Admittedly, these two are somewhat minor...they're also on the top of the crown, so not super visible. I would probably be forgiving of these on a less expensive hat. But then...



This one.....this one irks me. The reality is it's very tiny, but it sticks straight out from the crown and won't be tamed down.


They also agreed with me that the crown was lopsided but think that happened during shipping. On the weave, they gave me the whole "these hats are handwoven" an "unless you order a museum quality Montecristi the small imperfections are part of the weavers hand." I'm kinda calling BS on this though, because I've had other brisa straws with a similar weave count that didn't have frayed ends sticking out the crown. My Hatco OR Panama certainly doesn't....

I can exchange it, and they'll even honor black friday pricing for whatever I exchange it for; but, honestly, I'm not feeling super comfortable buying a straw from them sight unseen...cut my losses or try again?

 

[deadlyhandsome]

7 3/8 to 7 1/2

Mine are 7 5/8 to 7 3/4. Sorry.


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