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[Fivesense]

I suppose I may be peppering this forum with a lot of questions in the short term. Thanks for indulging me...

Is it okay to use Bickmore Gard-More on my new Chatham? We haven't had any snow or substantial rain (unseasonably dry here in the White Mountains) but I'd like to know if I can put a layer of protection on the hate to stain and waterproof it.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

General question- as with my other wool or felt hats, after general perspiration and wear, they will get a little tighter from time to time (easily fixed with a hat jack). Can I assume fur felt Fedoras will also? I ask because I'm going to get a haircut next week and I can tell the hat will be a little looser, but it fits just perfectly now. I may add in a bit of foam in the hat band as needed.

In my experience, it is the leather sweatband that expands and contracts more than the felt. As for fit, every hat fits differently and unless your talking extremes in hair styles a properly fitted hat should accommodate your haircut. Hats are sold in sizes graduated in 1/8 inch and not thousandths. Personally, if a hat fits perfect, meaning there is no extra room, I go up one size if possible. I'd rather have a hat with some reduction tape or other shim than a hat that become too tight to comfortably wear. Also be aware that some hats/brands are know to shrink more than others.

To each their own and some people like a hat to rest gently on their heads and others like a firmer hold for wind. Some like their hats one inch above their ears and some wear them differently. Fit is a very personal thing.

 

[Fivesense]

In my experience, it is the leather sweatband that expands and contracts more than the felt. As for fit, every hat fits differently and unless your talking extremes in hair styles a properly fitted hat should accommodate your haircut. Hats are sold in sizes graduated in 1/8 inch and not thousandths. Personally, if a hat fits perfect, meaning there is no extra room, I go up one size if possible. I'd rather have a hat with some reduction tape or other shim than a hat that become too tight to comfortably wear. Also be aware that some hats/brands are know to shrink more than others.

To each their own and some people like a hat to rest gently on their heads and others like a firmer hold for wind. Some like their hats one inch above their ears and some wear them differently. Fit is a very personal thing.

Thanks for your response.

I'm consistently a 7 3/8, 59 in my Stetsons and other hats. I won't have an extreme haircut but it will trim down a bit. This new Chatham fits remarkably well and I think a little reduction tape will cover me to take up any slack.

By the way, is there a favored reduction tape or shim? I just know what I can pick up at Boot Barn or Amazon but if there's something better, I'd be glad to know.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I suppose I may be peppering this forum with a lot of questions in the short term. Thanks for indulging me...

Is it okay to use Bickmore Gard-More on my new Chatham? We haven't had any snow or substantial rain (unseasonably dry here in the White Mountains) but I'd like to know if I can put a layer of protection on the hate to stain and waterproof it.

I think the consensus is that any decent quality fur felt hat can take a bit of weather without any damage. If your going to be in downpours or extreme weather I'd suggest an umbrella or a rain hat. For me a hat needs to be practical. Style should not come before function. I'd be very weary about applying anything to the felt, but I've never done it so I can't really speak with authority.

If your hat does get wet let it dry naturally without any heat. I'd also put in a band block or hat stretcher to help it retain its size. Be careful with brim flanges too. It's not difficult or time consuming, but a little effort will pay big dividends for the life of your hat.


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[Fivesense]

I think the consensus is that any decent quality fur felt hat can take a bit of weather without any damage. If your going to be in downpours or extreme weather I'd suggest an umbrella or a rain hat. For me a hat needs to be practical. Style should not come before function. I'd be very weary about applying anything to the felt, but I've never done it so I can't really speak with authority.

If your hat does get wet let it dry naturally without any heat. I'd also put in a band block or hat stretcher to help it retain its size. Be careful with brim flanges too. It's not difficult or time consuming, but a little effort will pay big dividends for the life of your hat.


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Great suggestions, and I completely agree about the umbrella, or a hat specifically designed to handle downpours. I am definitely a "function over form" type with most things, and especially with hats. I do like to take care of them but they must serve a function- cover from the sun, warmth, etc... In fact, I intend to wear my Chatham very much like the sportsman of the 40s and 50s. It's not a fashion statement for me (although it does make a statement!).

I'll have to learn a bit about brim flanges- this is the first I've heard of them.

 

[scottyrocks]

Here is my beautiful Chatham Royal Deluxe- it just arrived today! I'm quite pleased with how handsome the hat is. I don't have any other Fedoras to which I can compare it, but the felt feels very nice- it's appropriately stiff, but soft and flexible. It snaps nicely. It's safe to say this is probably a "gateway" Fedora for me!

Very nice. I'd recognize that crown anywhere. Wear it in the best of health.

 

[scottyrocks]

Thanks for your response.

I'm consistently a 7 3/8, 59 in my Stetsons and other hats. I won't have an extreme haircut but it will trim down a bit. This new Chatham fits remarkably well and I think a little reduction tape will cover me to take up any slack.

By the way, is there a favored reduction tape or shim? I just know what I can pick up at Boot Barn or Amazon but if there's something better, I'd be glad to know.

I use half inch wide foam weatherstripping from Home Depot/Lowes/Ace. It peels and sticks on one side. I apply it to the underside of the sweat as close to the stitching as possible.

And before anyone has a kitten, the sticky on the tape is very mild. I haven't had a damaged sweat yet upon removal of the tape.

 

[Fivesense]

I use half inch wide foam weatherstripping from Home Depot/Lowes/Ace. It peels and sticks on one side. I apply it to the underside of the sweat as close to the stitching as possible.

And before anyone has a kitten, the sticky on the tape is very mild. I haven't had a damaged sweat yet upon removal of the tape.

Perhaps a goofy question on my part, but do you tape in the front and back or the sides of the band? Or does it just depend?

 

[scottyrocks]

Perhaps a goofy question on my part, but do you tape in the front and back or the sides of the band? Or does it just depend?

It does just depend.

If the hat is loose all around, I put four pieces in either front/back/sides, or right and left front and rear quarters. I have experimented with both and now prefer the quarters method, which allows you to get a more even shape if you only need to pad either the front or back quarters to get a good fit.

But if the hat is loose at the sides only, as it more often is for me because I am a Long Oval in a Regular Oval hat world, then I just pad the sides. Conversely, if the hat is loose(r) in the front and back, then pad the front and/or back, depending on how loose it is.

 

[Zombie_61]

I use half inch wide foam weatherstripping from Home Depot/Lowes/Ace. It peels and sticks on one side. I apply it to the underside of the sweat as close to the stitching as possible.

And before anyone has a kitten, the sticky on the tape is very mild. I haven't had a damaged sweat yet upon removal of the tape.

Also, if it will be a relatively short-term application you can simply place the sizing tape/weatherstripping under the sweatband without exposing the adhesive; it should stay in place well enough until the time comes to remove it, and will be easier to remove when you do.

 

[moontheloon]

Also, if it will be a relatively short-term application you can simply place the sizing tape/weatherstripping under the sweatband without exposing the adhesive; it should stay in place well enough until the time comes to remove it, and will be easier to remove when you do.

This is what I do

Never saw the point in actually taping it down ... it’s not going anywhere

 

[moontheloon]

Can you provide a dated example to prove that 1960 date?

As far as I know the keyhole tags were still in use into the early 60s until they fully transitioned
Would you agree?

 

[carouselvic]

I have never seen anything that would support a 1960 date. I have seen a dated hat (1965 Dinerman) that had a black rectangular tag.

 

[RJR]

I agree with the above comments;I found this weather strip at Lowes.You can split it,tape it or not...pretty flexible.

 

[Fivesense]

Also, if it will be a relatively short-term application you can simply place the sizing tape/weatherstripping under the sweatband without exposing the adhesive; it should stay in place well enough until the time comes to remove it, and will be easier to remove when you do.

This is a good point; I do this on my cowboy hats, often forgetting they are even there.

 

[scottyrocks]

I use smaller pieces, and not one continuous piece. Because of that I have found that the light adhesive keeps it in place better. Of course, YMMV.

 

[moontheloon]

I use smaller pieces, and not one continuous piece. Because of that I have found that the light adhesive keeps it in place better. Of course, YMMV.

I've definitely found that small pieces work best

I try to avoid shimming as much as possible ... but when I do shim I'll use about a 2 inch piece at about 10 and 2 o'clock ... or something like that

 

[Fivesense]

Well, it will come as a surprise to nobody, but I'm already considering my next fedora.

As mentioned above, while I don't consider my fedoras "work hats," I do use them as a lifestyle accessory, like a jacket, gloves, etc... Therefore, I can see my fedoras as largely replacing my cowboy hats during the winter (we'll get to the Panama fedoras in a few months!). Firstly, fedoras are not as prone to being blown off, but they are also generally more comfortable for everyday wear, easier to wear in a vehicle, and they protect against the winter sun just as well. And they look so darn nice...

I've read about Akubras here, so I researched them and they look quite nice. Is it true they are one of the more weather "tolerant" fedoras? I like the Stylemaster, in either carbon or acorn. Also, it seems the Stylemaster has a bound edge; is that an advantage for durability, etc...?

Is there a "best" retailer to consider? Any sponsors of the forum? David Morgan seems like a logical choice but I'm sure there are plenty of others.

 

[Historyteach24]

Is there anything more obnoxious or pretentious then when everything vintage is described as "bespoke". I hate that word more than most people hate moist

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[Zombie_61]

...I've read about Akubras here, so I researched them and they look quite nice. Is it true they are one of the more weather "tolerant" fedoras? I like the Stylemaster, in either carbon or acorn. Also, it seems the Stylemaster has a bound edge; is that an advantage for durability, etc...?...

Any good quality fur felt hat should be "weather tolerant", but Akubra has built a reputation for making "durable" hats. As far as I know, in Australia they're largely considered to be "working" hats which is why so many of them feature wider brims that help to protect the wearer from the elements. They aren't considered to be "high end" hats and their quality can vary with regards to finish, sizing, and particularly stiffness, but for mass-produced modern hats I think they're good value at a reasonable price.

As for the bound edge on hats like the Stylemaster, it adds to the style of the hat and puts a little extra tension on the brim that helps somewhat to keep the brim shape whether you wear it snapped up or down.

...Is there a "best" retailer to consider? Any sponsors of the forum? David Morgan seems like a logical choice but I'm sure there are plenty of others.

David Morgan is among the favored Akubra vendors here, but many of us buy from Everything Australian and/or Hats Direct/The Hattery. I've bought from both of them and have always received excellent service.