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jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,103
Location
San Francisco, CA
Both Akubra and Stetson have pros and cons.

Akubras tend to shrink up a tad more, and I find the finish of the felt to be a little coarser than Stetson. On the plus side, they're durable hats that can handle heavy rain and shrug it off

Stetson has...shall we say, uneven, quality control. The higher end models have nice felt, and as I mentioned above, I find my Stetsons have a finer finish. For some bizarre reason they insist on using plastic polythread for the tacking stitches, which really annoys me. But overall Stetson's hat styles appeal more to me...your mileage may vary.
 

moontheloon

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,592
Location
NJ
Both Akubra and Stetson have pros and cons.

Akubras tend to shrink up a tad more, and I find the finish of the felt to be a little coarser than Stetson. On the plus side, they're durable hats that can handle heavy rain and shrug it off

Stetson has...shall we say, uneven, quality control. The higher end models have nice felt, and as I mentioned above, I find my Stetsons have a finer finish. For some bizarre reason they insist on using plastic polythread for the tacking stitches, which really annoys me. But overall Stetson's hat styles appeal more to me...your mileage may vary.
I would argue that Akubra quality control is on par with or even worse than Stetson

... and their consistency is far worse
 
Messages
11,378
Location
Alabama
I would argue that Akubra quality control is on par with or even worse than Stetson

... and their consistency is far worse

First you guys cause me to want an Akubra, then you talk me out of it. I own two hats newer than the 60's. One is the Gannon custom and the other is the —50 Dorer cowboy hat, that was distributed by Orvis, of all things. I'll just hang with my vintage and think what I may want in my next custom. As I save money for it. Or spend it on a vintage, as I usually do.

There are two or three cats on this site that really make their CD's desirable. To me, that is.
 

Bob Roberts

I'll Lock Up
Messages
11,201
Location
milford ct
First you guys cause me to want an Akubra, then you talk me out of it. I own two hats newer than the 60's. One is the Gannon custom and the other is the —50 Dorer cowboy hat, that was distributed by Orvis, of all things. I'll just hang with my vintage and think what I may want in my next custom. As I save money for it. Or spend it on a vintage, as I usually do.

There are two or three cats on this site that really make their CD's desirable. To me, that is.
The secret...? Don't listen.
 

moontheloon

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,592
Location
NJ
First you guys cause me to want an Akubra, then you talk me out of it. I own two hats newer than the 60's. One is the Gannon custom and the other is the —50 Dorer cowboy hat, that was distributed by Orvis, of all things. I'll just hang with my vintage and think what I may want in my next custom. As I save money for it. Or spend it on a vintage, as I usually do.

There are two or three cats on this site that really make their CD's desirable. To me, that is.

I like my CDs ... but they are what they are ...
yes guys like Jack and TPD166 make them look amazing ... makes me glad I have a few ... they are workhorse for sure ... you'd like them
order up a Bluegrass Green and be done with it ... it will fit right into your rotation

I like Akubra. I also love my Stetson. But if I was gonna vote I would say Akubra.

pertaining to modern I agree
 
Messages
12,017
Location
East of Los Angeles
I would argue that Akubra quality control is on par with or even worse than Stetson

... and their consistency is far worse
I have zero experience with Stetson hats, so take my opinion for what it's worth. But the biggest inconsistencies I've found in my Akubra hats are the stiffness of the felt and the sizing. Both usually vary only slightly, but one of my Campdrafts was as stiff when I received it as three of my other Akubras combined. Regardless, they've all become softer as I've creased and re-creased and worn them; not vintage/custom felt soft, but better than when they were new. With regards to fit (as I've mentioned before in other threads) all of my Fed IVs fit the same and all of my Campdrafts fit the same, but the Campdrafts were all approximately 1/2 size smaller until I stretched them out a little. Otherwise the build quality and the quality of the materials has been consistent from hat to hat. Or maybe I've just been lucky. ;) They aren't the finest/highest quality hats currently available, but they aren't pretending to be.

I've seen the prices Stetson and other manufacturers are asking for their modern production hats, and I've read many of the complaints about the quality of their hats here on The Lounge; complaints that are often similar to those expressed about Akubra hats. By comparison, until new evidence presents itself I'm convinced Akubra gives us the most bang for our buck.
 

blueAZNmonkey

One Too Many
Messages
1,446
Location
San Diego, CA
On the Akubra side, I own one standard Fed IV and one deluxe Fed IV. And on the post-1990's Stetson side, I own one dress hat -- a black royal deluxe homburg.

Comparing the Akubra quality to the modern Stetson (and in this case, the difference in hat type has to be taken into account) my modern Stetson bests the Akubras -- in a very obvious way -- both in sight and touch.

The Akubras, although different "grades" of felt, feel almost the same to me with the caveat that the deluxe Fed IV was more easily shaped. Now, although the Akubras look and feel coarser, I would trust them in all sorts of damp-to-snowy weather. They are very rugged. I would not take my Stetson homburg (which is a very dressed-up sort of style) into any weather denser than a very light rain.

I liken my modern Stetson to a fashionable Levi's jean, and my Akubras to a dense Wrangler jean. Both are good depending on what you are looking for, and as with denim, the QC for either hat brand can be a bit dodgy. I would say you are safe with the Camp Draft as a go-to hat for all sorts of different forecasts. But as with the rest of the clothes you wear, you will likely need a variety of hats to suit every need.

Side note -- If you are ever looking to spend a couple bills for a new hat, I would recommend going the custom route (like Esther or MC Gannon) -- rather than going the big-brand route.
 

Willebe

A-List Customer
Messages
479
Location
Kentucky
On the Akubra side, I own one standard Fed IV and one deluxe Fed IV. And on the post-1990's Stetson side, I own one dress hat -- a black royal deluxe homburg.

Comparing the Akubra quality to the modern Stetson (and in this case, the difference in hat type has to be taken into account) my modern Stetson bests the Akubras -- in a very obvious way -- both in sight and touch.

The Akubras, although different "grades" of felt, feel almost the same to me with the caveat that the deluxe Fed IV was more easily shaped. Now, although the Akubras look and feel coarser, I would trust them in all sorts of damp-to-snowy weather. They are very rugged. I would not take my Stetson homburg (which is a very dressed-up sort of style) into any weather denser than a very light rain.

I liken my modern Stetson to a fashionable Levi's jean, and my Akubras to a dense Wrangler jean. Both are good depending on what you are looking for, and as with denim, the QC for either hat brand can be a bit dodgy. I would say you are safe with the Camp Draft as a go-to hat for all sorts of different forecasts. But as with the rest of the clothes you wear, you will likely need a variety of hats to suit every need.

Side note -- If you are ever looking to spend a couple bills for a new hat, I would recommend going the custom route (like Esther or MC Gannon) -- rather than going the big-brand route.

Thanks for the comparison, blue. I hope to one day upgrade to a custom hat, but this will get me started in order to determine a couple of things. I like hats, but I am not 100% certain that I will wear a Fedora style hat. I can visualize myself wearing it, but I do not know the extent. I also want to play with Fedora styles and shapes. I am not a fan of bottom end merchandise, but I have found that middle of the road can get one started and feel the water before sinking big money.

When I started cycling, I bought a nice older bike off Craiglist to first determine if I would keep up with it. After a year of riding, I was hooked and it didn't bother me to sink some real money into a nice carbon road bike. I now have two for different road bikes for various types of riding. I suspect it will be the same here.

I will test drive a solid hat and eventually add better versions for various days and purposes. I am also a big proponent of using what I buy. No safe or garage queens in my repituau. If I buy it, I will use the heck out of it with great care and appreciation. I will look at those custom names and add them to the list for when I progress.

Thanks



Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 

Willebe

A-List Customer
Messages
479
Location
Kentucky
I have zero experience with Stetson hats, so take my opinion for what it's worth. But the biggest inconsistencies I've found in my Akubra hats are the stiffness of the felt and the sizing. Both usually vary only slightly, but one of my Campdrafts was as stiff when I received it as three of my other Akubras combined. Regardless, they've all become softer as I've creased and re-creased and worn them; not vintage/custom felt soft, but better than when they were new. With regards to fit (as I've mentioned before in other threads) all of my Fed IVs fit the same and all of my Campdrafts fit the same, but the Campdrafts were all approximately 1/2 size smaller until I stretched them out a little. Otherwise the build quality and the quality of the materials has been consistent from hat to hat. Or maybe I've just been lucky. ;) They aren't the finest/highest quality hats currently available, but they aren't pretending to be.

I've seen the prices Stetson and other manufacturers are asking for their modern production hats, and I've read many of the complaints about the quality of their hats here on The Lounge; complaints that are often similar to those expressed about Akubra hats. By comparison, until new evidence presents itself I'm convinced Akubra gives us the most bang for our buck.
Thanks, Zombie. I have no way of handling an Akubra before I order, so this is helpful.

Willebe.


Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
Messages
12,017
Location
East of Los Angeles
...The Akubras, although different "grades" of felt, feel almost the same to me with the caveat that the deluxe Fed IV was more easily shaped...
Really? My "regular" Fed IVs shaped very easily, but my "deluxe" Fed required a second creasing on the crown just to refine the Teardrop shape, and I had to work the front of the brim four or five times to get it "snapped" down at the angle I wanted. But that was the first crease I gave it when it was new; it took the subsequent Diamond re-crease easily.

Thanks, Zombie. I have no way of handling an Akubra before I order, so this is helpful.

Willebe.
You're very welcome. I also had no way to examine an Akubra in person before I bought my first one back in 2008. But I did the research online (much of it here on The Lounge), looked at what was available, and decided an Akubra would be a good choice for my first fur felt hat. I like them, but completely understand when someone with a collection that includes vintage and custom hats comments about the quality being somewhat less than they're accustomed to.
 
Last edited:

blueAZNmonkey

One Too Many
Messages
1,446
Location
San Diego, CA
Thanks for the comparison, blue. I hope to one day upgrade to a custom hat, but this will get me started in order to determine a couple of things. I like hats, but I am not 100% certain that I will wear a Fedora style hat. I can visualize myself wearing it, but I do not know the extent. I also want to play with Fedora styles and shapes. I am not a fan of bottom end merchandise, but I have found that middle of the road can get one started and feel the water before sinking big money.

When I started cycling, I bought a nice older bike off Craiglist to first determine if I would keep up with it. After a year of riding, I was hooked and it didn't bother me to sink some real money into a nice carbon road bike. I now have two for different road bikes for various types of riding. I suspect it will be the same here.

I will test drive a solid hat and eventually add better versions for various days and purposes. I am also a big proponent of using what I buy. No safe or garage queens in my repituau. If I buy it, I will use the heck out of it with great care and appreciation. I will look at those custom names and add them to the list for when I progress.

Thanks



Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Awesome! Yeah that's the best approach for sure. Believe me -- you'll get hooked. There are so many different styles of fedora. Once you find the right shape, you'll start filling that hat rack =)
 

blueAZNmonkey

One Too Many
Messages
1,446
Location
San Diego, CA
Really? My "regular" Fed IVs shaped very easily, but my "deluxe" Fed required a second creasing on the crown just to refine the Teardrop shape, and I had to work the front of the brim four or five times to get it "snapped" down at the angle I wanted. But that was the first crease I gave it when it was new; it took the subsequent Diamond re-crease easily.

Actually yes! My deluxe moonstone creased much easier than my standard fawn. And for me, the deluxe was able to hold a dry crease much better than the standard. One note about the colors... I actually think the dyeing process can have at least some affect on felt stiffness. I purchase the same type of Czech rabbit felt when making my originals, and the difference in stiffness between slate gray, medium gray, and navy blue is very noticeable. Either it's the dye or maybe it's just a slight inconsistency in the felting process overall.
 

Willebe

A-List Customer
Messages
479
Location
Kentucky
Stetson's current offering of Stratoliner comes in a few grades = Excellent, Premier, & Royal. I have examples of all 3. I also have a Moonstone Fed4 Deluxe. To me, the Premier Stratoliner & the Fed4 Deluxe (Akubra Heritage grade) are on par. I won't wear or own a Royal Stetson Stetson modern Stratoliner version as it was a marketing move to take advantage of a historical name on the shelf & no way honored what a Stratoliner was. The Premier was what we were expecting. HTH
I'm not sure what grade the Stratoliner was. It sure felt nice and was light weight. I am trying to picture the inside of the hat were the tag was. When I looked on the Stetson website, it only showed the one Stratoliner and it didn't distinguish. I will recheck to make sure.

Thanks,

Willebe

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 

Willebe

A-List Customer
Messages
479
Location
Kentucky
For the money, Akubra is a better bet than Stetson. You can get a nice Stetson, but only in their high end, open crown models. If you like the thin ribbon look of a Stratoliner, think about getting a Campdraft. I have no first hand experience with the Fed IV, but they get good reviews here.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.
Thanks. I will look at the Campdraft.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 

Willebe

A-List Customer
Messages
479
Location
Kentucky
Awesome! Yeah that's the best approach for sure. Believe me -- you'll get hooked. There are so many different styles of fedora. Once you find the right shape, you'll start filling that hat rack =)
When it comes to sizing. I usually where a 60cm in my Tilley, and my head measures 60cm with a cloth tape. The Stetson Stratoliner fit perfect in the 59cm, but was too big with the 60cm. If I order the Akubra, will the sizing be more toward the 60 or 59? Specifically, what size would be more appropriate. I have read that slightly larger is better than too small. The 59 in the Stetson was dead on perfect as it would have endured a strong wind storm while not causing an hypoxic brain injury due to decreased circulation. My Tilley fits the same way. I would hate to order it and need to send it back for a different size.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
Messages
10,851
Location
vancouver, canada
I own 3 Akubras, a CD in Bluegrass and two other David Morgan offerrings and two modern Stetson Stetsonian Royal Deluxe grade. All were bought online so did not get to feel or try them on. I purchased the Stetson's on a close out for less than half their retail which brought them in line with the pricing for the Akubra. So comparing them dollar for dollar my vote goes to Akubra. Perhaps I got lucky but the Akubras as the ones I received were great quality, both felt and construction. Whereas the Stetsonian, while a very nice quality felt left something to be desired on the build quality. Coarse flange markings on the brim, a cheap generic black ribbon on both grey and brown felts and the first time I wore it in a light rain the brim went all wonky and I sent it away to a custom hatter to be reflanged. Now if I had paid full retail for the Stetsons I would be really pissed off but for the price I paid they are decent hats. But my two cents, bang for the buck goes hands down to Akubra.
 

Willebe

A-List Customer
Messages
479
Location
Kentucky
I own 3 Akubras, a CD in Bluegrass and two other David Morgan offerrings and two modern Stetson Stetsonian Royal Deluxe grade. All were bought online so did not get to feel or try them on. I purchased the Stetson's on a close out for less than half their retail which brought them in line with the pricing for the Akubra. So comparing them dollar for dollar my vote goes to Akubra. Perhaps I got lucky but the Akubras as the ones I received were great quality, both felt and construction. Whereas the Stetsonian, while a very nice quality felt left something to be desired on the build quality. Coarse flange markings on the brim, a cheap generic black ribbon on both grey and brown felts and the first time I wore it in a light rain the brim went all wonky and I sent it away to a custom hatter to be reflanged. Now if I had paid full retail for the Stetsons I would be really pissed off but for the price I paid they are decent hats. But my two cents, bang for the buck goes hands down to Akubra.
Thanks, Belfast. I understand paying full price and sub par results. I don't mind paying the money of the quality is there.

Willebe.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 
Messages
10,851
Location
vancouver, canada
Thanks, Belfast. I understand paying full price and sub par results. I don't mind paying the money of the quality is there.

Willebe.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Yeh, if the Stetsonians were in a hat shop and I got a chance to try them on and inspect I doubt I would have purchased even one of them. At full price I think they are a disappointing hat even though the felt is great. But at full price you can get a beaver felt from a custom shop not a mass produced rabbit. That is why my vote would go to Akubra.....based on my experience with their hats.
 

blueAZNmonkey

One Too Many
Messages
1,446
Location
San Diego, CA
When it comes to sizing. I usually where a 60cm in my Tilley, and my head measures 60cm with a cloth tape. The Stetson Stratoliner fit perfect in the 59cm, but was too big with the 60cm. If I order the Akubra, will the sizing be more toward the 60 or 59? Specifically, what size would be more appropriate. I have read that slightly larger is better than too small. The 59 in the Stetson was dead on perfect as it would have endured a strong wind storm while not causing an hypoxic brain injury due to decreased circulation. My Tilley fits the same way. I would hate to order it and need to send it back for a different size.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Unfortunately, that is where the inconsistency in QC sort of comes in to play. Both my Fed IV's are 58cm -- yet the standard one shrunk to the point of requiring a stretcher in less than a month of use. Whereas, the deluxe Fed IV fits perfectly. I think slightly larger is always going to be better since the hat will naturally shrink and conform to your head. At the same time, the Fed IV is a little larger at the get go in order to compensate for the conforming process. My head measures 58cm, I ordered 58cm, and both Akubras started out a bit large.

I think you'd be safe going with the 60cm and letting it naturally conform over a couple weeks of wear/steam.
 

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