Ask a question, get an answer

[Frunobulax]

A few questions. Is there some kind of tape to put behind cloth sweatbands to protect felt from sweat? How about thin felt strips, would they make any difference?

Also how to those wind cords work? I see them on a few hats and guess they just tighten up on the outside of the band?

Well, not to be facetious, but that's what the sweatband is for. Adding felt strips will downsize your hat.

As to your second question, it's like a lasso. There's a little loop on the back of the button. You pull the string through, "lasso" the crown of your hat, then pull it tight.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

 

[Scooterz]

One of the hats I just picked up has a coating on the inside of the sweatband next to the felt. The strat does not seem to have a coating just a cloth band that does not look like a regular one. Can't really complain as the price was dirt cheap but just wondered if there was something folks used.

 

[Frunobulax]

One of the hats I just picked up has a coating on the inside of the sweatband next to the felt. The strat does not seem to have a coating just a cloth band that does not look like a regular one. Can't really complain as the price was dirt cheap but just wondered if there was something folks used.

I have some older hats with oilskin or paper back there. Not sure of the effectiveness of it, though. A good sweat should do the job, but I think designers have tried to improve upon it at times over the years.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

 

[Bill Hughes]

So I have a few hats now. The top of my head touches the bottom of the center dent on a couple of them. Should I change the dent so my head doesn't touch? Bald on top so it's easy for me to feel when it's touching. Is it ok to be touching? I worry about the lining.

 

[FedOregon]

I don't fret over it.

 

[Bertie.Wooster]

Well, plans are starting to finalise.
I plan to start production of Rustic straw boaters in May 2017. May experiment with a bit of flower edged plait (the ones Olney use) and a Luton Rail Plait (could be the next generation plait for boaters......)

I have found people/dealers/salesman who have the straws, petersham ribbons, sweatbands and etc BUT what I haven't managed to find is what stitching machine do I buy? Many British manufacturers in the 50s used a Wilcox & Gibb Hand Stitch 'box' type machine, which is apparently designed for straw hats but extremely rare was 0~1 come up on ebay......

Would an old Wilcox & gibb do it? Or any newer modern machines that could fit in the job?

Anyone got any ideas which stitching machine that would be able to sew rustic plait straw below:
https://thestrawshop.com/product/rustic-or-tyrolean-plait-15-meter-bundle/

 

[RJR]

I don't fret over it.

+1

 

[hatsRme]

First, a question for YOU, Bertie, buddy... why don't you take advantage of the "Ask a question, get an answer" thread, or the "boater Faction" thread instead of always starting new threads for this pursuit? Or even the "Hatters Tools" thread? The machine I found last summer would work.

 

[moehawk]

There is an antique sewing machine club that might be able to help you locate what you need. Look up ISMACS Digest, join, and see if they can point you in the right direction.

 

[Bertie.Wooster]

First, a question for YOU, Bertie, buddy... why don't you take advantage of the "Ask a question, get an answer" thread, or the "boater Faction" thread instead of always starting new threads for this pursuit? Or even the "Hatters Tools" thread? The machine I found last summer would work.

Oh, sorry, will do next time.

 

[Bob Roberts]

No worries Berti.

 

[rogerstg]

So I have a few hats now. The top of my head touches the bottom of the center dent on a couple of them. Should I change the dent so my head doesn't touch? Bald on top so it's easy for me to feel when it's touching. Is it ok to be touching? I worry about the lining.

I don't like the top of my head touching the hat, so I adjust the bash to avoid it. It's nothing more than my personal preference though.

 

[Gabe Long]

There is no one in Atlanta. You may want to check out The Mad Hattter Savannah might be able to help.

Jeff Dyer

Jeff,

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll have to try them for my next refurb. I just dropped off this hat with David from Falcon Park Hattery (right here in Atlanta). Looking forward to seeing their work.

Thanks again.
-Gabe

 

[mayserwegener]

Well, plans are starting to finalise.
I plan to start production of Rustic straw boaters in May 2017. May experiment with a bit of flower edged plait (the ones Olney use) and a Luton Rail Plait (could be the next generation plait for boaters......)

I have found people/dealers/salesman who have the straws, petersham ribbons, sweatbands and etc BUT what I haven't managed to find is what stitching machine do I buy? Many British manufacturers in the 50s used a Wilcox & Gibb Hand Stitch 'box' type machine, which is apparently designed for straw hats but extremely rare was 0~1 come up on ebay......

Would an old Wilcox & gibb do it? Or any newer modern machines that could fit in the job?

Anyone got any ideas which stitching machine that would be able to sew rustic plait straw below:
https://thestrawshop.com/product/rustic-or-tyrolean-plait-15-meter-bundle/

For the rustic plait in the link you need a machine that can do under stitch. You should take a look at this link.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/thre...aids-for-mens-summer-hats.85313/#post-2054445

I would also take a look at this video starting at 10:26. You will need to make forms. A Boater will require some amount of shellac / stiffener (not sure what was used). You will not be able to make a very rigid pressed type of Boater (this would require large speciality machinery).

There are Wilcox & Gibb models that can do this. I think its going to take some time / experimenting + money to get up to speed. Also you will not be able to make pressed types.

 

[Bertie.Wooster]

For the rustic plait in the link you need a machine that can do under stitch. You should take a look at this link.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/thre...aids-for-mens-summer-hats.85313/#post-2054445

I would also take a look at this video starting at 10:26. You will need to make forms. A Boater will require some amount of shellac / stiffener (not sure what was used). You will not be able to make a very rigid pressed type of Boater (this would require large speciality machinery).

There are Wilcox & Gibb models that can do this. I think its going to take some time / experimenting + money to get up to speed. Also you will not be able to make pressed types.

Where can I buy a boater steam shaping press?

 

[mayserwegener]

Here is what one looks like. I am not sure where you can buy one. You might want to check with Hutmaschinen Bahner.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1528/24567670649_8197a9aafd_h.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1643/24639809660_d531b8a2ff_h.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1561/24639808100_d18561f985_h.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1551/24308437613_206b7690a5_h.jpg

I would check out these video. You can see that the presses are heated. These are very rustic types but the videos should give you a good idea of the processes.

http://www.septfonds.com/septfonds_chapellerie_bason.htm#

With vintage ones the brim edges were sometimes reinforced or the brim doubled. Also a shellac / stiffener was applied that produces a gloss to the surface. You can see it (a golden patina) on the top of crown on this Boater which is in near mint condition.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8440/8000571857_29cdcf4f43_b.jpg

 

[pedestrian]

That puts you pretty much dead in between 7 1/4 and 7 3/8. If you don't have anywhere to go to try on a few hats to confirm, you'll likely want to stick w/ 7 3/8, I'd think. If you order an Akubra, go with a 59.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

Thanks.
That's good to know. I noticed some sites include inches or cm on their sizing-charts, but knowing the right area will save time looking it up all the time.

 

[Barefoot Friar]

Please let me know if I need to open a thread just for this:

What color hat (Fedora or pork pie) would I wear with a navy blazer and tan/khaki/taupe pants?

 

[RJR]

Please let me know if I need to open a thread just for this:

What color hat (Fedora or pork pie) would I wear with a navy blazer and tan/khaki/taupe pants?

Welcome to the Lounge.
You don't offer if you have hats now or not so I'll start with the assumption that you're starting fresh.Understand that hats ARE ADDICTIVE and you will likely succomb.
Any number of colors will look good with the combo you describe;my first suggestion would be one in silverbelly because the color is very neutral and goes with quite a variety.
Here is an ex
ample.

 

[Barefoot Friar]

Welcome to the Lounge.
You don't offer if you have hats now or not so I'll start with the assumption that you're starting fresh.Understand that hats ARE ADDICTIVE and you will likely succomb.
Any number of colors will look good with the combo you describe;my first suggestion would be one in silverbelly because the color is very neutral and goes with quite a variety.
Here is an ex View attachment 64370
ample.

Thank you! I have grey and brown fedoras; the brown one will be replaced soon because it's rather ugly. I'll look for the color you suggested. You say there are other colors that might work? What about olive?