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[hatsRme]

Mike, Did you ever get this question answered? I'd be interested in how to tackle this problem as well.

Removing rust from laundry items used to be tackled with diluted oxalic acid. You can get it at your local pharmacy in powdered form. Dilute it with warm water. It will chemically remove the rust, but as in all operations of this type, proceed with caution. I'm thinking Q-tips to apply, and then be sure to remove all traces of the cleaner. Some rust cleaners still contain it, like "Barkeepers' Friend," for pots and pans. Our Town has offered some laundry cleaner containing oxalic acid after municipal pipe flushing wreaked havoc with the laundry of the uninformed. It's very effective.

 

[fedoracentric]

I agree with 1950s on that Open Road. It is also a Canadian-made contract Stetson, I think, not one made in the USA.

 

[alanfgag]

It is also a Canadian-made contract Stetson, I think, not one made in the USA.

Yes- made in Canada.

On the rusty wind cord button, it will likely be very difficult to clean. Optimo in Chicago sells cords/buttons - probably other hatters have them as well. They are reasonable in cost and not hard to replace.

 

[rclark]

Yes- made in Canada.

On the rusty wind cord button, it will likely be very difficult to clean. Optimo in Chicago sells cords/buttons - probably other hatters have them as well. They are reasonable in cost and not hard to replace.

Do you have to remove the ribbon to do so? Also, how would one attach it to the hat? Thanks for all of your help, Alan!

 

[alanfgag]

Do you have to remove the ribbon to do so? Also, how would one attach it to the hat? Thanks for all of your help, Alan!

I've only done one. It was on a Stetson 7XCB that I had renovated at Optimo. They were to replace the ribbon and wind cord but neglected to do the cord. Rather than send the hat back, I asked to receive a new matching cord and button. I looked at some of my other hats first for inspiration. The ribbon does not need to be removed. I tied a very small knot at the end of the cord opposite the button, then stitched the cord just past the knot to the felt at the flange of the hat body behind the bow. There should be enough play to get behind the bow for a few stitches. I made the knot to add some security that it could not slip through the stitches if the cord received a good yank. Probably unnecessary, as I've never actually used a wind cord for anything other than as a decorative element.

 

[rclark]

Thanks Alan!

 

[Joao Encarnado]

This may help Joao...

http://www.hats-plus.com/chronicles/?p=803

It does help a bit. Thanks.

 

[dustdevil]

Hello everybody. I am new to the forum.

Question: I live in Arizona. I have a couple of the Kangol Tropic Player Stingy Brim Fedoras that I wear daily. I've been told not to immerse them in water for fear of losing their shape, but I know that soon enough the sweatbands will need to be cleaned up. Somebody recommended dry cleaning, but that seems like overkill.
Does anybody have any suggestions for this problem?

Thanks!

 

[job]

Pics and materials will help. Oh, and welcome.

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk

 

[Landman]

Do you have to remove the ribbon to do so? Also, how would one attach it to the hat? Thanks for all of your help, Alan!

Rick,

Alan's method for attaching the wind cord is probably the easiest and works great but I thought I might mention another method I saw on a vintage hat I once owned. The hat was a vintage Stephen L. Stetson with the patented Carter Detachable Sweatband attachment method. The wind cord was attached by inserting the end of the cord through a small hole under the bow of the ribbon and then the cord was attached to a small and very flat button. It looked to me to be a very sturdy way to attach the cord. Especially if you plan on using it. If your hat blew off and the cord received a strong pull, the cord would probably break before the attachment came loose. Like Alan though, I never use mine but just like the way they look on a hat.

Carter Detachable Sweatband information.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?67667-Carter-Detachable-Sweatbands

 

[rclark]

Thanks Mike! That sounds like another good way to attach a wind cord. I might try both, but I never really use mine either.

 

[fedoracentric]

I am a little confused on Beaver Brand Hats. Now, I know the company went under last year, sure, but I am confused by some date issues.

So, I read an article that said that Beaver Brand hats bought Langenberg hats in the year 2000. Is that when the Beaver Brand hat name was first created?

I know the company always said "making hats since 1860" but they were called "Beaver Brand" since 1860, right?

I guess my main question is: when did the name "Beaver Brand" get born?

 

[sola fide]

Thanks Mike! That sounds like another good way to attach a wind cord. I might try both, but I never really use mine either.

Like all of you I like the way the cord and button look andI have not used it either. I will contact Optimo in Chicago to replace the the cord and button. Thanks all for the suggestions.
Mike A

 

[sola fide]

New old question.
-I have been told that it is better to get a hat a size bigger than smaller.
-I know I wear a 57cm which converts to a 7 1/8, but my new/old Open Road is a little loose.
-I was told you can use some kind of filler to make the hat fit a little better.
-What is the best method to make my Stetson Open Road a little more snug? The previous owner might have stretched it.
Thank you,
Mike A

 

[Greyryder]

I use strips of white craft felt, tucked behind the sweatband.

 

[sola fide]

I use strips of white craft felt, tucked behind the sweatband.

Thank you,
Mike A

 

[vintage.vendeuse]

Could I have some help with this Stetson Royal DeLuxe, please? It is an olive brown color and I love the pinstripe ribbon! I'd like to find out it's approximate age, how I can determine the size (inner circumference measurement translates to what size hat?), and if it had a particular style name. When I try to research Stetson Royal DeLuxe, it seems these actually came in many styles. There are no markings/labels other than those shown.
Thanks so much!

 

[Rabbit]

Could I have some help with this Stetson Royal DeLuxe, please? It is an olive brown color and I love the pinstripe ribbon! I'd like to find out it's approximate age, how I can determine the size (inner circumference measurement translates to what size hat?), and if it had a particular style name. When I try to research Stetson Royal DeLuxe, it seems these actually came in many styles. There are no markings/labels other than those shown.
Thanks so much!

1960s based on sweatband (leather type, width, stamping).

Stetson Royal DeLuxe is the quality designation. It's one step up from the entry level Stetson Royal, or $12.50 instead of $10.00 for the early post-war years through 1950s. I'm not sure if prices had changed already in the 1960s.
Model names are actually the exception, so it's not unusual for this hat to have no model name.

FYI, model names were often (not always) coupled with quality designations - for instance, Whippets are Royal, Vogues are Royal Deluxe; ORs can be anything from Royal Deluxe over 3X to 100.

As for size, the inside circumference in inches divided by the number pi equals the U.S. hat size. You can cross-check the circumference by measuring the length and width of the oval, then entering the numbers into one of the online ellipse calculators to obtain the circumference.

Here's an ellipse calculator:

http://www.csgnetwork.com/circumellipse.html


By the way Donna, thanks again for that 1940s pinstripe DB suit. It's magnificent and fits perfectly.

 

[TheDane]

1960s based on sweatband (leather type, width, stamping)

Early 60's, based on the partly torn-off keyhole price tag(?)

A very fast - but surprisingly accurate - method to get the size is as follows: Measure length and width of head-opening. Add the two numbers and divide the result by two.

You can also tape a piece of masking tape around the sweatband - lift it off - and measure it's length.

Or you can use a tape-measure, made from thin, flexible steel. That's a lot easier to control along the sweatband than one made from cloth.

 

[mayserwegener]

Also the liner is missing.