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Brad Bowers

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,187
Okay, before we go any further, let me just state that, to my surprise, you CAN crease a Derby, as I just tried it on one of my various trashed vintage Derbies. However, it leaves creases and ripples in the felt when you pop it back out, and only some serious work with steam and denatured alcohol will fix it. This particular hat, while vintage, had thicker felt than many of my other Derbies, and I suspect that if you tried it on a hat where the felt is very thin that it would crack beyond repair.

Alan-Eby, you are correct, what your great-grandfather used to buy were open-crowned hats, which are meant to be creased by hand. Derbies, although having a dome shape like an open-crowned hat, are a completely different hat, and are not - ever - meant to be creased. The shellac stiffens them for that very reason. There were some "demi-bowlers" made around 1959 that were designed to be softer and creased like a homburg, but a classic Derby was not. Stick to looking for a homburg, and you'll be on the right track for what you want.

Brad
 

Prokofiev

New in Town
Messages
9
Location
Canada
Hey everyone. This is somewhat of a stupid question, but I can't find an answer anywhere. I recently bought a modern fur felt fedora, which after wearing a few times, I realized that the crease is the ugliest one I have ever seen. I would like to redo it myself, but have a bit of a problem. Do I remove the silk liner beforehand? I have redone some creases in other hats, but they were wool, and didn't have liners. I would appreciate if someone could tell me what to do here, and I apologize for the dumb question.
 

Gumbo Book

Familiar Face
Messages
96
Location
Staffordshire U.K.
Okay, before we go any further, let me just state that, to my surprise, you CAN crease a Derby, as I just tried it on one of my various trashed vintage Derbies. However, it leaves creases and ripples in the felt when you pop it back out, and only some serious work with steam and denatured alcohol will fix it. This particular hat, while vintage, had thicker felt than many of my other Derbies, and I suspect that if you tried it on a hat where the felt is very thin that it would crack beyond repair.

Alan-Eby, you are correct, what your great-grandfather used to buy were open-crowned hats, which are meant to be creased by hand. Derbies, although having a dome shape like an open-crowned hat, are a completely different hat, and are not - ever - meant to be creased. The shellac stiffens them for that very reason. There were some "demi-bowlers" made around 1959 that were designed to be softer and creased like a homburg, but a classic Derby was not. Stick to looking for a homburg, and you'll be on the right track for what you want.

Brad

This is exactly why I love coming here, learning something new every day!

Gumbo
 

scottyrocks

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,178
Location
Isle of Langerhan, NY
Okay, before we go any further, let me just state that, to my surprise, you CAN crease a Derby, as I just tried it on one of my various trashed vintage Derbies. However, it leaves creases and ripples in the felt when you pop it back out, and only some serious work with steam and denatured alcohol will fix it. This particular hat, while vintage, had thicker felt than many of my other Derbies, and I suspect that if you tried it on a hat where the felt is very thin that it would crack beyond repair.

Alan-Eby, you are correct, what your great-grandfather used to buy were open-crowned hats, which are meant to be creased by hand. Derbies, although having a dome shape like an open-crowned hat, are a completely different hat, and are not - ever - meant to be creased. The shellac stiffens them for that very reason. There were some "demi-bowlers" made around 1959 that were designed to be softer and creased like a homburg, but a classic Derby was not. Stick to looking for a homburg, and you'll be on the right track for what you want.

Brad

So technically, you can crease a derby but you really cant, iow, it shouldnt be done because it wont look right with the ripples and all, and will ruin the hat.

You can also poke a gorilla with an open safety pin, but the results are less than desirable. :)
 

Lloyd

A-List Customer
Messages
451
Location
Los Angeles
Extremely subtle there, Lefty:eusa_clap

Anyone know a reputable place for cleaning/blocking in the Southern California area?

If you are not in a hurry there's always Barons. They'll do a good job and usually only take twice as long as they say they will.
 

Lloyd

A-List Customer
Messages
451
Location
Los Angeles
I have used them for cleaning and reblocking. I have not bought a hat from them, and I haven't done any business with them for almost a year.
Their cleaning and reblocking is competent, but they usually grossly underestimate the actual delivery time. I had it take 6 weeks for them to clean and reblock a hat once.
 

Chinaski

One Too Many
Messages
1,045
Location
Orange County, CA
I have used them for cleaning and reblocking. I have not bought a hat from them, and I haven't done any business with them for almost a year.
Their cleaning and reblocking is competent, but they usually grossly underestimate the actual delivery time. I had it take 6 weeks for them to clean and reblock a hat once.

Thanks! I'll ponder that one a bit...
 

DragonJade

One of the Regulars
Messages
110
Location
Japan
Hey Dragon Jade.

The shop in question is COW ( not affiliated with the webpage ) Directly across the road from Birmingham bus station. At anyone time they have about 30 - 40 vintage hats, at the most expensive they run up to only £20. But they mostly have the Austrian velour type. Although they do occasionly have stetsons in - they are of the stingy brim type. They also do Pendleton shirts for about a fiver. I must stress though, that I am nothing to do with them...it just an hour down the road for me so I know about it.

Hi. Do you mean the National Express coach station? It's been a few years since I've been back, and I'm not sure when I'll be back again. Definitely not in the winter. Too cold for me.
 

Jauntyone

Practically Family
Messages
792
Location
Puy-de-Dôme, France
I've been wearing my Campdraft more and more; I think I'm finally getting used to its dimensions:

IMG_6652.jpg


Last summer, I plucked the liner from my hat--it's made my Campdraft much lighter and more comfy, but it looks a bit naked inside:

IMG_6653.jpg


Is there any way to get one of those Akubra patches that are glued to the inside of the crown of un-lined Akrubras? I'd like to adorn the interior of my Campdraft with one.
 
Messages
15,276
Location
Somewhere south of crazy
I've been wearing my Campdraft more and more; I think I'm finally getting used to its dimensions:

IMG_6652.jpg


Last summer, I plucked the liner from my hat--it's made my Campdraft much lighter and more comfy, but it looks a bit naked inside:

IMG_6653.jpg


Is there any way to get one of those Akubra patches that are glued to the inside of the crown of un-lined Akrubras? I'd like to adorn the interior of my Campdraft with one.

Jaunty, that CD looks great with that outfit. Is that also a vintage tie? I have a collection of vintages, myself but I usually wear wool tartan ties in the winter.
 

Jauntyone

Practically Family
Messages
792
Location
Puy-de-Dôme, France
Jaunty, that CD looks great with that outfit. Is that also a vintage tie? I have a collection of vintages, myself but I usually wear wool tartan ties in the winter.
Thanks! It is indeed a vintage tie--modern ties hang down 'way too low for me. My "collection" of vintage ties is modest but I really can't wear modern ties anymore.
Tartan wool ties are great, but a bit difficult to find in my experience. They definately set you apart. I have one or two and they always get noticed
 

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