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[Winston Carter]

It's hard to tell from the picture, but that doesn't look like a factory binding job to me. Could it be that the brim was cut down and rebound?

I don't see any stitching on the binding for some reason. Probably a modification.

 

[Woodtroll]

But now considering ordering a custom hat for myself and really like what I'm seeing from Michael Gannon (Gannon Hat Company) in Portland, OR.
I'm sure I've heard his company discussed here before as well as seen photos. And I'm sure he is highly reputable. But does anyone have any info they'ed like to share on Gannon hats right now? Much thanks.

From looking at their website the hats look great. Never bought one but wondering what the weight is. I hate thin flimsy hats that won't hold shape.

I guess from my western only days I got use to a heavier weight hat. All my fedora's after steaming I will use Bickmore to set and make stiffer. I just prefer them to hold shape.

I just received a dress-weight hat from Michael Gannon, and I guess I'd describe it as mildly stiff. It is nowhere near as stiff as a 4"-brim western Resistol, and is also noticeably softer than my Akubra Campdraft (though Akubras seem to be all over the place for stiffness, so maybe that won't help much). It has a nice soft hand (surface texture), but is still stiff enough to hold its shape. I was adamant when talking with Michael that with a 3" brim, I wanted the hat to hold its shape after steaming, and after working with it Michael felt that the body was stiff enough on its own without adding any stiffener to do the job. I had also asked for a mild flange, which I think also helps the brim hold its shape. But the hat has indeed held its shape, as I requested; Michael played this one just right. I'm extremely pleased with the hat.

I, too, grew up with Western-weight hats, and even the cheap wool Westerns I had as a teenager held their shape. I know a lot of folks here prefer the so-soft vintage felt that "molds like clay"; for myself I prefer a hat that feels soft but holds its shape. I have one really fine dress fedora that is soft like I think the finer vintage hats must be, and I struggle with the brim shape constantly. I really hate to spray it with stiffener, as it turns the soft surface of the felt into a coarser, bristly nap that is not near as nice as the original felt. I would much prefer a stiffer hat with a soft surface, than one that is soft all the way through and changes shape with every bump or nudge.

By no means do I mean to disparage the luxuriously-soft vintage dress hats nor the folks who love them. I think we just want or expect different things from our hats, based either on what we grew up with or what our current needs are. I've been told often that I'm not cultured enough to appreciate the finer things in life, and the really soft hats may be another case of this. To each their own, with no malice at all on my part. I have the utmost respect for the guys who cherish and preserve the fine vintage hats. But I'll still trade you my share of the caviar for a good cheeseburger any time!

I hope this helps somewhat,
Regan

 

[Winston Carter]

I just received a dress-weight hat from Michael Gannon, and I guess I'd describe it as mildly stiff. It is nowhere near as stiff as a 4"-brim western Resistol, and is also noticeably softer than my Akubra Campdraft (though Akubras seem to be all over the place for stiffness, so maybe that won't help much). It has a nice soft hand (surface texture), but is still stiff enough to hold its shape. I was adamant when talking with Michael that with a 3" brim, I wanted the hat to hold its shape after steaming, and after working with it Michael felt that the body was stiff enough on its own without adding any stiffener to do the job. I had also asked for a mild flange, which I think also helps the brim hold its shape. But the hat has indeed held its shape, as I requested; Michael played this one just right. I'm extremely pleased with the hat.

I, too, grew up with Western-weight hats, and even the cheap wool Westerns I had as a teenager held their shape. I know a lot of folks here prefer the so-soft vintage felt that "molds like clay"; for myself I prefer a hat that feels soft but holds its shape. I have one really fine dress fedora that is soft like I think the finer vintage hats must be, and I struggle with the brim shape constantly. I really hate to spray it with stiffener, as it turns the soft surface of the felt into a coarser, bristly nap that is not near as nice as the original felt. I would much prefer a stiffer hat with a soft surface, than one that is soft all the way through and changes shape with every bump or nudge.

By no means do I mean to disparage the luxuriously-soft vintage dress hats nor the folks who love them. I think we just want or expect different things from our hats, based either on what we grew up with or what our current needs are. I've been told often that I'm not cultured enough to appreciate the finer things in life, and the really soft hats may be another case of this. To each their own, with no malice at all on my part. I have the utmost respect for the guys who cherish and preserve the fine vintage hats. But I'll still trade you my share of the caviar for a good cheeseburger any time!

I hope this helps somewhat,
Regan

Sounds good. I don't expect a dress fedora to be as thick or have as much shellac as a western. Somewhere in between flimsy and western. I know i'm picky but when I grab a hat to put on my head I want it to hold my preferred shape.

 

[crawlinkingsnake]

I just received a dress-weight hat from Michael Gannon, and I guess I'd describe it as mildly stiff. It is nowhere near as stiff as a 4"-brim western Resistol, and is also noticeably softer than my Akubra Campdraft (though Akubras seem to be all over the place for stiffness, so maybe that won't help much). It has a nice soft hand (surface texture), but is still stiff enough to hold its shape. I was adamant when talking with Michael that with a 3" brim, I wanted the hat to hold its shape after steaming, and after working with it Michael felt that the body was stiff enough on its own without adding any stiffener to do the job. I had also asked for a mild flange, which I think also helps the brim hold its shape. But the hat has indeed held its shape, as I requested; Michael played this one just right. I'm extremely pleased with the hat.

I, too, grew up with Western-weight hats, and even the cheap wool Westerns I had as a teenager held their shape. I know a lot of folks here prefer the so-soft vintage felt that "molds like clay"; for myself I prefer a hat that feels soft but holds its shape. I have one really fine dress fedora that is soft like I think the finer vintage hats must be, and I struggle with the brim shape constantly. I really hate to spray it with stiffener, as it turns the soft surface of the felt into a coarser, bristly nap that is not near as nice as the original felt. I would much prefer a stiffer hat with a soft surface, than one that is soft all the way through and changes shape with every bump or nudge.

By no means do I mean to disparage the luxuriously-soft vintage dress hats nor the folks who love them. I think we just want or expect different things from our hats, based either on what we grew up with or what our current needs are. I've been told often that I'm not cultured enough to appreciate the finer things in life, and the really soft hats may be another case of this. To each their own, with no malice at all on my part. I have the utmost respect for the guys who cherish and preserve the fine vintage hats. But I'll still trade you my share of the caviar for a good cheeseburger any time!

I hope this helps somewhat,
Regan

Thanks Regan and yes this is helpful. Like you I prefer something that will maintain its shape, but not as much as my Akubra Kiandra. My two favorites are a Biltmore and Stetson. I guess they cover both ends of the spectrum for softness and stiffness. The Biltmore is very soft and pliable. While the Stetson is soft to touch, but stiffer and retains its shape.
I'll pass your same information along to Michael when I place my order. btw: pretty much agree with your opinion on caviar vs cheeseburgers.
Thanks!

 

[scottyrocks]

2 1/4" is weird. If it was 2 1/2", it would be a Lounge edition BGGCD, such as @RJR is wearing today over in WHAYWT.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

It's more like 2 3/16.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I just received a dress-weight hat from Michael Gannon, and I guess I'd describe it as mildly stiff. It is nowhere near as stiff as a 4"-brim western Resistol, and is also noticeably softer than my Akubra Campdraft (though Akubras seem to be all over the place for stiffness, so maybe that won't help much). It has a nice soft hand (surface texture), but is still stiff enough to hold its shape. I was adamant when talking with Michael that with a 3" brim, I wanted the hat to hold its shape after steaming, and after working with it Michael felt that the body was stiff enough on its own without adding any stiffener to do the job. I had also asked for a mild flange, which I think also helps the brim hold its shape. But the hat has indeed held its shape, as I requested; Michael played this one just right. I'm extremely pleased with the hat.

I, too, grew up with Western-weight hats, and even the cheap wool Westerns I had as a teenager held their shape. I know a lot of folks here prefer the so-soft vintage felt that "molds like clay"; for myself I prefer a hat that feels soft but holds its shape. I have one really fine dress fedora that is soft like I think the finer vintage hats must be, and I struggle with the brim shape constantly. I really hate to spray it with stiffener, as it turns the soft surface of the felt into a coarser, bristly nap that is not near as nice as the original felt. I would much prefer a stiffer hat with a soft surface, than one that is soft all the way through and changes shape with every bump or nudge.

By no means do I mean to disparage the luxuriously-soft vintage dress hats nor the folks who love them. I think we just want or expect different things from our hats, based either on what we grew up with or what our current needs are. I've been told often that I'm not cultured enough to appreciate the finer things in life, and the really soft hats may be another case of this. To each their own, with no malice at all on my part. I have the utmost respect for the guys who cherish and preserve the fine vintage hats. But I'll still trade you my share of the caviar for a good cheeseburger any time!

I hope this helps somewhat,
Regan

I’m there with you. I have a few vintage gems, and some wonderful dress weight customs, but more often than not I’ll grab one of my western conversions for everyday wear. I like the firm felt and knowing the hat can take any abuse the day can throw at it.

One of the things that makes me like my Phoenix hats so much is that they are dress weight soft and sooo comfortable to wear and yet they aren’t irreplaceable or so expensive that I’m constantly worrying about them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[scottyrocks]

I have a 1939 Dobbs Game Bird that has that soft, velvety goodness, but changes shape if you blow on it. That's one reason I don't wear it much.

 

[crawlinkingsnake]

Thanks Regan and yes this is helpful. Like you I prefer something that will maintain its shape, but not as much as my Akubra Kiandra. My two favorites are a Biltmore and Stetson. I guess they cover both ends of the spectrum for softness and stiffness. The Biltmore is very soft and pliable. While the Stetson is soft to touch, but stiffer and retains its shape.
I'll pass your same information along to Michael when I place my order. btw: pretty much agree with your opinion on caviar vs cheeseburgers.
Thanks!

Since my Biltmore is much softer than the Stetson; could that mean it's made with rabbit fur and the Stetson is beaver?

 

[Winston Carter]

Since my Biltmore is much softer than the Stetson; could that mean it's made with rabbit fur and the Stetson is beaver?

I get confused thinking about the felts in hats. I have just given up trying.

 

[Winston Carter]

I just received a dress-weight hat from Michael Gannon, and I guess I'd describe it as mildly stiff. It is nowhere near as stiff as a 4"-brim western Resistol, and is also noticeably softer than my Akubra Campdraft (though Akubras seem to be all over the place for stiffness, so maybe that won't help much). It has a nice soft hand (surface texture), but is still stiff enough to hold its shape. I was adamant when talking with Michael that with a 3" brim, I wanted the hat to hold its shape after steaming, and after working with it Michael felt that the body was stiff enough on its own without adding any stiffener to do the job. I had also asked for a mild flange, which I think also helps the brim hold its shape. But the hat has indeed held its shape, as I requested; Michael played this one just right. I'm extremely pleased with the hat.

I, too, grew up with Western-weight hats, and even the cheap wool Westerns I had as a teenager held their shape. I know a lot of folks here prefer the so-soft vintage felt that "molds like clay"; for myself I prefer a hat that feels soft but holds its shape. I have one really fine dress fedora that is soft like I think the finer vintage hats must be, and I struggle with the brim shape constantly. I really hate to spray it with stiffener, as it turns the soft surface of the felt into a coarser, bristly nap that is not near as nice as the original felt. I would much prefer a stiffer hat with a soft surface, than one that is soft all the way through and changes shape with every bump or nudge.

By no means do I mean to disparage the luxuriously-soft vintage dress hats nor the folks who love them. I think we just want or expect different things from our hats, based either on what we grew up with or what our current needs are. I've been told often that I'm not cultured enough to appreciate the finer things in life, and the really soft hats may be another case of this. To each their own, with no malice at all on my part. I have the utmost respect for the guys who cherish and preserve the fine vintage hats. But I'll still trade you my share of the caviar for a good cheeseburger any time!

I hope this helps somewhat,
Regan

I don't want to sound like a salesman for Bickmore Felt Stiffener but it really works good. I will steam and shape a hat, spray it down good and let it dry overnight. When it is dry I will brush it good and the felt will be nice and soft. If it is still not stiff enough for your liking just repeat. It can be re-steamed also. Hatco gets about $10 a bottle. I don't know the cost over the internet??

 

[scottyrocks]

I get confused thinking about the felts in hats. I have just given up trying.

What you will eventually figure out is that after a while, you will be able to get a pretty good idea of the feel, malleability, and even age of a hat, and its felt, just by looking at pictures on line. This learning process, of course, also depends on purchasing them to hold in your hot little hands.

 

[scottyrocks]

Since my Biltmore is much softer than the Stetson; could that mean it's made with rabbit fur and the Stetson is beaver?

I didn't go back to research details about these two hats, but . . .

Not necessarily. Year(s) of manufacture, and a myriad of finishing details, including pouncing and stiffening, could make almost any hat feel softer and/or smoother than another. I have soft and stiff rabbits, and soft and stiff beavers.

 

[Winston Carter]

I didn't go back to research details about these two hats, but . . .

Not necessarily. Year(s) of manufacture, and a myriad of finishing details, including pouncing and stiffening, could make almost any hat feel softer and/or smoother than another. I have soft and stiff rabbits, and soft and stiff beavers.

I just started wearing Fedora's a few years ago. I have a couple dozen so far about 70% being Stetson Fur Felt which seems to be a good grade of felt. So i'm still learning how to fly.

 

[Winston Carter]

I might add I have a ton of western hats so that's why I look for sturdier Fedora's. Western hats will handle anything you throw at them and still stand up.

 

[scottyrocks]

I might add I have a ton of western hats so that's why I look for sturdier Fedora's. Western hats will handle anything you throw at them and still stand up.

And therein lies the rub.

Fedora aficionados tend to not favor western-stiff fedoras. That's why, when I want or need to wear a fedora in a considerably less than ideal situation I reach for one of my Akubras. They are not western hat stiff, but considerably heartier (and not as irreplaceable) as a vintage.

I also have a couple of fedoras that I have cut down from westerns. These are probably the ultimate adverse-condition fedoras. @TJones does a lot of these.

 

[Winston Carter]

And therein lies the rub.

Fedora aficionados tend to not favor western-stiff fedoras. That's why, when I want or need to wear a fedora in a considerably less than ideal situation I reach for one of my Akubras. They are not western hat stiff, but considerably heartier (and not as irreplaceable) as a vintage.

I also have a couple of fedoras that I have cut down from westerns. These are probably the ultimate adverse-condition fedoras. @TJones does a lot of these.

That's the reason I finally started wearing Fedora's. I have been cutting my western brims down for about 30 yrs. Almost all of my westerns have a brim between 2.5"-3". I like the lighter hat and more compact brim for riding in the car etc.

 

[Winston Carter]

Here lately I have been buying more open crown western's so I can bash to a pinch front. I have become to like it better since I can handle them from the crown. I have so many cattleman and pseudo cattleman style crown they are getting old to me.

 

[Frunobulax]

I just started wearing Fedora's a few years ago. I have a couple dozen so far about 70% being Stetson Fur Felt which seems to be a good grade of felt. So i'm still learning how to fly.

I don't know where you've gotten the idea dress hats aren't sturdy. Just because they're not stiff doesn't mean they're fragile. Felted fur is tough stuff. It can take a lot and keep going and looking nice.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

 

[Winston Carter]

I don't know where you've gotten the idea dress hats aren't sturdy. Just because they're not stiff doesn't mean they're fragile. Felted fur is tough stuff. It can take a lot and keep going and looking nice.


Sent directly from my mind to yours.

I like a little more shellac to my hats. That's the reason I use Bickmore. JMO If everyone liked the same women there would be a lot of fighting.

 

[crawlinkingsnake]

I don't want to sound like a salesman for Bickmore Felt Stiffener but it really works good. I will steam and shape a hat, spray it down good and let it dry overnight. When it is dry I will brush it good and the felt will be nice and soft. If it is still not stiff enough for your liking just repeat. It can be re-steamed also. Hatco gets about $10 a bottle. I don't know the cost over the internet??

Thanks Winston, as well as others, for this good to know information. I've learned more about felt fedoras and westerns the past couple days then ever imagined. Now think I'm leaning toward a softer rabbit felt fedora. And I'll definitely look into Bickmore Stiffener.