Ask a question, get an answer

[BobHufford]

I looked at the band and couldn't make out all the words, but inside a badge looking outline was "CLEARBEAVER". I also think there were three "X"s and it looks like "Houston" at the bottom.

Looks like an old American Hat Co. that is in need of a naphtha bath.

 

[Rick Blaine]

PUNTI SEVEN ?


I sure hope so. What do ya'll think, judging from the scanty and inexact evidence? I am optimistic.

No such luck. Please see classifieds.

 

[bimfi]

My new hat came in today and what a difference it was! It is the Stetson Royal Saxon fedora. Comparing it to the Borsa is like night and day. This brim actually "snaps" and holds it shape. The felt feels a lot firmer than my other one also, and it fits and feels better on my head. This will definitely will be my "dress" hat, and my borsa will be my everyday hat.

 

[Redfokker]

We should have such a problem as a Borsalino being an "Everyday" hat! Pictures when you can.

 

[RJR]

Looks like an old American Hat Co. that is in need of a naphtha bath.

+1

 

[buler]

I'm curious how you arrived at the American Hat Co for that hat?

B

 

[hatsRme]

I have searched the forum and internet regarding listings of actual ratios for regular oval, long oval, X-long oval or wide oval with no real luck. Some of the old FL posts had links to other FL posts but they appeared broken (took me to an incorrect page). The only thing I can find somewhat related is from this post:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/is-long-oval-a-different-circumference.9712/

"Round oval is 5/8 inch longer than it is wide
"Regular oval is 1 3/8 inches longer than it is wide
"Long oval is 2 1/8 inches longer than it is wide
"X-Long oval is 2 7/8 inches longer than it is wide
"XX-Long oval is 3 5/8 inches longer than it is wide
"XXX-Long oval is 4 3/8 inches longer than it is wide."

I am not too sure how accurate the above is since using inches vs a ratio really is not correct for varying width/length of the oval. I was hoping to find some documentation from John Cavanagh (inventor of the "Cavanagh" edge) who originally introduced the concept of regular, long, and wide oval. I am thinking there may not be really a standard in the industry.

Regardless I guess it really don't matter, I will create the hat stretcher and band blocks to work with my custom measurement's.

Question: would a head/hat with dimensions of 6 x 8 1/4 be generally considered long oval (ignoring the above criteria)?

Answer: Yes, possibly an XLO.

I have read with interest your posts pondering the aspects of standardized band blocks. I also went back and read the above-linked thread about Long Ovals. The actual measures for determining the oval type in that thread, although the calculations took a lot of work, are inaccurate I think. My rationale: the measures of a size 7-3/4, compared to a 6-3/4 will not adhere to the arithmetic approach as in the old thread. I have (in the past) done the calculations of the ratios determining a standard oval, long oval, extra long oval, etc. A ratio approach to determine scaled oval configurations is consistent throughout the size range.

My bottom line results showed a long oval (LO) hat to be a ratio of 3 by 4, and an XLO is 2 by 3. Try it yourself, let me know what you think!!

The reason you have not been able to find standard sized band block (my guess, anyway) is that most of them were custom made from the results of a conformateur.

I hope a hatter will chime in!

 

[BobHufford]

I'm curious how you arrived at the American Hat Co for that hat?

Harv (1mach1) and Chuck (Dogman) have 3X Clear Beaver hats with the same sweat marking.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/post-new-hats-here.28145/page-1564#post-2153341

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/western-anyone.24539/page-160#post-2007650

 

[1on1]

Heyhey- Thanks for creating a hat corner guys..

Need your collective advice about making one's own leather sweatbands. Does anyone know where to purchase the raw leather hide ? If presented with a choice, what thickness leather should I opt for. I want to use the same thickness found in Fedora hats..sturdy and not flimsy leather..as im sure you all know that earlier (40's and below) newsboy hats did use leather sweatbands.

Last but not least, besides hunting on ebay/etsy/craigslist, does anyone know where else I could look for the Singer leather sweatband machine ? Is anyone selling by any chance ?

Brgds
1on1

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

So you want to start making newsboy caps or just put sweatbands in yours.
If you want to have sweatbands put in your caps. Contact Johnny at https://www.etsy.com/shop/CordovaCaps

He has added sweatbands to many of my older caps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Ken David]

Answer: Yes, possibly an XLO.

I have read with interest your posts pondering the aspects of standardized band blocks. I also went back and read the above-linked thread about Long Ovals. The actual measures for determining the oval type in that thread, although the calculations took a lot of work, are inaccurate I think. My rationale: the measures of a size 7-3/4, compared to a 6-3/4 will not adhere to the arithmetic approach as in the old thread. I have (in the past) done the calculations of the ratios determining a standard oval, long oval, extra long oval, etc. A ratio approach to determine scaled oval configurations is consistent throughout the size range.

My bottom line results showed a long oval (LO) hat to be a ratio of 3 by 4, and an XLO is 2 by 3. Try it yourself, let me know what you think!!

The reason you have not been able to find standard sized band block (my guess, anyway) is that most of them were custom made from the results of a conformateur.

I hope a hatter will chime in!

This is some good food for thought. I replied in the other thread, thanks for giving it new life!

From my LIMITED understanding of the industry I would think hatters would have a variety of custom hat blocks and then as you mentioned would manufacture band blocks for each customer to match their head based on results from a confomateur and make final adjustments using the band block? Over the years maybe they collect a variety of band blocks and if someone orders a hat say in a 7 3/8 LO they can just use one of the band blocks used on a previous custom job that is close to the standard dimensions? Just a thought. I think there are some places that do make band blocks in standard sizes in LO, XLO etc but are hesitant to give out that information to protect their business.

 

[Damon B]

Hello everyone, ive recently bought a Sterkowski Maciejowka, love it, very well made, however, im finding it a little uncomfortable to wear all day due to the stiff band that gives it its shape, does anyone here know what its made from and if it will shape to my head with wear, im guessing if its a stiff leather it will but if its some kind of plastic(?) it wont.
Any ideas and tips would be much appreciated, I hope my explanation makes sense! Thanks.

 

[bimfi]

Here are some pictures of the new stetson.

 

[hatsRme]

FYI, not just any leather will do, especially if you're the sensitive type, like I am. Seriously, these sweatbands leave my forehead looking like a teenager with acne. The more Dichromate in the leather, the faster and more severe are the ill effects. You need to use a vegetable tanned leather, without any dichromate. Despite USA mil specs banning the use of this chemical in sweatbands in the 1940s (for any hats purchased for the military) it still shows up, unbeknownst to most hatters.

To test, cut a toothpick-size (or larger is better, easier to see the results) piece of the leather and burn it to an ash. If it turns green, similar to lichen, it has dichromate.

See the GREEN! (Click to enlarge)

 

[RJR]

FYI, not just any leather will do, especially if you're the sensitive type. You need to use a vegetable tanned leather, without any dichromate. Despite USA mil specs banning the use of this chemical in sweatbands in the 1940s (for any hats purchased for the military) it still shows up, unbeknownst to most hatters.

To test, cut a toothpick-size (or larger is better, easier to see the results) piece of the leather and burn it to an ash. If it turns green, similar to lichen, it has dichromate.

See the GREEN! (Click to enlarge)
View attachment 71547 View attachment 71548

Good information.

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

Not a fan of the feather. [emoji3] Cock it on your head a little. Hats worn straight on the head are not flattering. I use to have square glasses like yours when I started wearing hats regularly. But I found that the vintage rounder styles fitted my hat wearing better than the square style of glasses.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

Well at the price it is not leather. [emoji3] what size hat do you wear? Looks as if they are sized by cm. I haven't picked up one of their caps yet but they are on my list of to do. [emoji3]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[bimfi]

I understand. I was trying to take a "selfie" which was very unnatural looking. I usually do cock the hat. I will remove the feather which, on the hat looks pretty good, but on the head looks pretty lame. As for the glasses, well...that'll have to wait. But, I see your point. Thanks for the recommendations.

 

[moontheloon]

Your hat looks fine ... wear it as you wish

 

[sola fide]

I'm looking for ideas for a summer hat that goes with 30s thru 40s clothing, dress and casual.
Thanks
Mike