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Messages
15,089
Location
Buffalo, NY
There must be many lurking behind page one... here is a thread on sweatband construction, which might be what you are looking for. To the question you raised the other day on taped sweatband seams - this method of attachment seems to have held up very well as most of the early hats in my collection have taped seams and they remain joined a century after manufacture. Hard to know exactly what type of tapes were used, but it appears to be a fabric impregnated material. Linen tape that is used in archival quality picture framing appears similar, though I'm not sure the water based adhesive will offer the strength or longevity needed for the job.
 

John Galt

Vendor
Messages
2,080
Location
Chico
I have a hat made by someone I consider to be tops in the custom hatting business, that has no tape at the junction.

The hand stitching Is truly impeccable, but the sweat buckles a bit there, which I attribute to the lack of tape. I like taped sweats and note that many of the sweats on really old hats were taped and not sewn at all, and have held up well. I second Alan's comment as to these.

I tend to use paper non-plasticized packing tape (try the stuff at U-Haul - the 3M stuff isn't what it used to be), but paper masking tape also sticks well and is perfectly serviceable IMHO.

Check out the Conversion Corral for tips from various folks...
 

Irish4

Familiar Face
Messages
97
Location
Missouri
Looking for a good hat shop in Oklahoma City. Looking for a shop with a good selection of fedoras to try. Thank you for any help
 
Messages
10,524
Location
DnD Ranch, Cherokee County, GA
Across the street from Langston's in Stockyard City is a shop that has some fedoras. Can't recall the name but the sell Wahoo vests, Filson stuff, packer boots, etc.
I think it is Little Joe's Boots.
Shorty's Caboy Hattery on Agnew has some custom Open Road styles too.
HTH
 

LuvMyMan

I’ll Lock Up.
Messages
4,558
Location
Michigan
I have a hat made by someone I consider to be tops in the custom hatting business, that has no tape at the junction.

The hand stitching Is truly impeccable, but the sweat buckles a bit there, which I attribute to the lack of tape. I like taped sweats and note that many of the sweats on really old hats were taped and not sewn at all, and have held up well. I second Alan's comment as to these.

I tend to use paper non-plasticized packing tape (try the stuff at U-Haul - the 3M stuff isn't what it used to be), but paper masking tape also sticks well and is perfectly serviceable IMHO.

Check out the Conversion Corral for tips from various folks...

Years ago, Daniel had a vintage Dobbs 15 that had the seam of the sweatband taped. It was starting to let go and not knowing what else to do, he simply removed it, took a edge of a sharp knife and sort of scraped the surface of the tape to remove as much as the old glue on the surface as much as he could, then used some Barge contact cement, applied it really thin and let it sit for about 15 minutes and then pressed the tape back in place, holding everything together with a large metal spring clip until the Barge set up and totally dried. More than not, the tape will be there for another 65 years and holding the seam together rather soundly. To date, that is the only hat we have owned here that did not have a sewn seam on the sweatband.
 

LuvMyMan

I’ll Lock Up.
Messages
4,558
Location
Michigan

I sure do not desire to make anyone think badly of me, but honestly, that hat looks like someone cut up a old tweed plaid sports jacket and made a hat out of it. I am sure in the winter months a thick wool tweed hat is maybe warmer than a normal fedora or western hat...but geez.....those hats just seem to lack any clean looks at all...just too floppy looking.

That hat without Rex Harrison wearing it...just seems to be "goodwill" written all over it....you know he could be wearing a hat folded up made from newspaper and look good in it.
 

madame babette

New in Town
Messages
27
Location
California
Hi,

I hope I am asking in the right place. Does anyone have any information on a hat maker or brand called Douglas Parker Hats? I have a fedora with that label, not sure of the date, maybe 1940s. I did a search here for info but came up empty. Thanks!
 
Last edited:

bloc

One of the Regulars
Messages
199
Location
Llandovery, Wales, UK
I have a hat made by someone I consider to be tops in the custom hatting business, that has no tape at the junction.

The hand stitching Is truly impeccable, but the sweat buckles a bit there, which I attribute to the lack of tape. I like taped sweats and note that many of the sweats on really old hats were taped and not sewn at all, and have held up well. I second Alan's comment as to these.

I tend to use paper non-plasticized packing tape (try the stuff at U-Haul - the 3M stuff isn't what it used to be), but paper masking tape also sticks well and is perfectly serviceable IMHO.

Check out the Conversion Corral for tips from various folks...

Thanks very helpful. A bit of trial and error called for I guess.
 

smoothsailor

One of the Regulars
Messages
238
Location
groningen
Does anybody know why and or how ,bashes, creases came about? I mean how come city hats look different then country hats. I understand that the brims serve the purpose to protect from the elements. Makes me wonder why the difference in crease. And when did this all start?
Thanks,
Paul
 
Messages
10,607
Location
Boston area
My guess is that you would be hard pressed to put a single starting point on the practice. Probably more of an evolutionary thing, you think?
 
Messages
12,034
Location
East of Los Angeles
Does anybody know why and or how ,bashes, creases came about? I mean how come city hats look different then country hats. I understand that the brims serve the purpose to protect from the elements. Makes me wonder why the difference in crease. And when did this all start?
Thanks,
Paul
There are surely people here who are far more knowledgeable than I am but, from what I've read, the hat we now know as a Fedora was traditionally given a "center dent" or "center crease" and "side dents" at the "pinch" almost from day one; certainly long before it became known as a Fedora and became popular with men.

Based on personal experience, my guess is that the various other creases/shapes came about as a sort of natural evolution born out of practicality. What I mean by that is, I've found a center dent crease to be impractical for me because, even on a hat with an open crown height of 5-1/2", my head pushes the crease up from the inside. But the "bump" in the center of a Teardrop, C-Crown, or Diamond crease provides more clearance, and is therefore more practical...for me, anyway, and I imagine for other men as well.

Historically speaking, I believe the main difference between "city" and "country" hats is that "city" hats were/are worn as a fashion item as well as to protect the wearer from the elements, while true "country" hats are generally considered to be workwear, worn not only to protect the wearer from the elements but also to be used occasionally as a tool--to feed and/or water livestock, for example. As such, the practicality of a "country" hat far outweighs the "fashion" aspects and makes them less important, though it's clear most wearers still have their preferences with regards to the shapes of the crowns and brims.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, and provide the proper response to your questions.
 

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