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Roan

One of the Regulars
Messages
111
Location
St. Louis
I wonder, is it possible that the hat was made by HATCO and, who I'm guessing owned Knox by the late '50s when I think this was made, simply used this crest in the hats they produced as "store brand hats"?
 

John Galt

Vendor
Messages
2,080
Location
Chico
I guess it was not sold well. I might have thought it would have one for a bit more. Flagships aren't that common. Then again, it was brown. I think brown holds a price down.

I expect you are right about brown, but Flagships are hard to find in any color, let alone at a reasonable price. My Gold Medal (Royal Stetson) has no Flagship designation, but is a great hat, I imagine a Flagship model Gold Medal was very nice hat indeed. Wonder if it was an FL'er who purchased. Anyone???


"Faint hat never won fair lady."
 

John Galt

Vendor
Messages
2,080
Location
Chico
Excellent question, D-Guy! Great time to form the planning committee, and pick this year's theme (hats?)

Let's re-start the initiative... Who's in?

When will it be? If summer (or November - boaters), then straws.

I've never attended but would if I could plan it. Should be a broad enough theme to draw a crowd. Is there a thread?


"Faint hat never won fair lady."
 

bowlerman

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,294
Location
South Dakota
There is so much to learn!

I was wondering two things:

Do you fellas experience a richer, smoother hand on 100% beaver felt in dark colors, as opposed to a slightly more grainy hand on lighter colored ones?

And secondly, do you guys believe that long oval heads should use dimensional brims?
 

TheDane

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,670
Location
Copenhagen, Denmark
1) It depends very much on the hatter and his supplier(s). The felt is bleached for lighter colors, and that can make the felt feel a little coarser. Hatters do different (more/less/other) finishing work and sometimes their felt is different too. A light hat from one hatter can actually feel softer and richer than a dark from another - but ususally a dark is softer than a light, all other parameters equal. Natural belly beaver is of course something completely different :)

2) No, if you don't prefer a directional brim in the first place, I don't see why a long oval should make you want that. A little longer skull doesn't call for a directional brim in my eyes, but others may think otherwise(?)
 

Rabbit

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,561
Location
Germany
There is so much to learn!

I was wondering two things:

Do you fellas experience a richer, smoother hand on 100% beaver felt in dark colors, as opposed to a slightly more grainy hand on lighter colored ones?

And secondly, do you guys believe that long oval heads should use dimensional brims?

1) I have a good selection of dark and light-colored VS beaver. Can't say I noticed a difference in haptic. If it's there, it must be negligible. Lightweight versus dressweight, on the other hand, is like the difference between day and night, but it doesn't concern the finish as such. What it does concern is the softness. I've found the dressweights in dark (unbleached) colors to be slightly stiff, and the dressweights in light (bleached) colors, meaning lighter than natural beaver, to be a bit softer. Lightweights are always soft, with the light colors being extremely soft. Even the dark-colored lightweights are still much softer than the light-colored dressweights.
Softness is actually not the right term, though. The lightweights are just thinner, that's all there is to it, and that makes them softer to the touch and on the head.

2) what Ole said
 

bowlerman

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,294
Location
South Dakota
Good points on the color. Every hatter has his own method of finishing, etc. Needless to say, the beaver bodies are all still far superior to staple.

I guess on the second point I was hypothesizing that long oval heads' brims would appear wider from the front/back view, and narrower, by comparison from the side view, so maybe the sides being shorter would give a more balanced look all around. Oh well, I won't spend a whole lot of time thinking about it anymore.

Thanks for your input, Ole and Nik!
 

TheDane

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,670
Location
Copenhagen, Denmark
Those words alongside that avatar almost sound like "I'll be waiting for you, Buster!" :eeek: lol

No Rusty, just joking. I simply can't wait to see you great guys. I really appreciate the time and effort you put into the visit. Thanks a lot ;)
 

Grizzly Adams

A-List Customer
Messages
364
Location
New Mexico
I have a nice vintage fedora that has an unreeded sweatband that is detached in the front. Took it to the local hat guy, but he said he could not resew it and could only replace it with a new one. Can anyone recommend a hatter that can do this kind of work?

Thanks, GA
 

TheDane

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,670
Location
Copenhagen, Denmark
It depends on the specific problem. Where and how did it come loose? Have some stitches popped and/or is the leather damaged? Or did the tape come loose from the crown? Could you upload a picture?
 

TheDane

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,670
Location
Copenhagen, Denmark
I think, the Sulgrave is a rather new model. My guess is the 90s, but I'm not quite sure. Brad Bowers is usually our encyclopedic mastermind, when it comes to hat-history ... especially on the C&K, Cavanagh, Dobbs and Knox family (sorry, i probably forgot a handful). We can hope, he'll see this question. His knowledge is of frightening proportions :)
 

tuco1963

One of the Regulars
Messages
198
Location
new castle indiana
thanks dane
it has the clear plastic center head cover but i swear the inside info ticket makes it look from the 50s
also is it a homberg or a fedora with the front brim bent down it looks like the shape of the howard hughes hat he was wearing leaveing the plane in dc?
 

TheDane

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,670
Location
Copenhagen, Denmark
Yes, it's a homburg, and it's still made. I'm not sure, when they started to make that specific model, but I don't think it's one of their older ones. I'm not sure, though - and I could be terribly wrong. Brad will know for sure.

Even if it's not that old, it can still be a really nice hat. In my age I would love to tell you, that beauty and quality is all about age. Looking at the "picture" over my bathroom sink tells me, it ain't :D

PS: Google will only show me pictures of Hughes in aviator helmet or, what I believe is, a Stetson Whippet.
 
Last edited:

splintercellsz

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,141
Location
Somewhere in Time
thanks dane
it has the clear plastic center head cover but i swear the inside info ticket makes it look from the 50s
also is it a homberg or a fedora with the front brim bent down it looks like the shape of the howard hughes hat he was wearing leaveing the plane in dc?

A fedora is able to be worn brim up or down. A Homburg has brim binding that holds the brim in the up position. Two different styles of hats altogether.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
 

tuco1963

One of the Regulars
Messages
198
Location
new castle indiana
HRH_.jpg
notice how the brim is mine is the same way turned down
 

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