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GamaH

A-List Customer
Messages
406
Regarding the sizing of a hat, do sizes take into consideration the sweatband?

For example, with really short hair, I measure approx 57cm with a tape, so I buy 7 1/8 hats. After measuring the inside of my hat (that has a leather sweatband), however, I found that it's actually 56ish inside, but it's labeled as 57. It fits me, but to get 57cm inside, do I have to buy a size up? All my hats are 7 1/8, and they all fit me the same, with the exception of a particular felt stetson western hat.

To be honest I am quite confused, seeing as everytime I measure, 57 is as tight as I can pull the tape before I say "I don't want my hat to be this tight," yet none of my hats are what I'd particularly call tight, and their interiors are 56ish.
 
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ZAZ

New in Town
Messages
13
Location
Idaho
So my beloved Akubra Cattleman is bobbing around in the sink right now. I realized it was sitting on my dresser more than on my head. I love the hat but it just never felt right and I would fidget with it constantly whenever I wore it. I never understood why it felt funny but I finally figured it out. I have a goofy head. Not only is my head tall but the sweet spot where the hat feels good is just millimeters above my ears and the cattleman wasn't quite making it down that far. No sense having a hat I'm not going to wear so I decided to see if I could put a "custom" bash in it.

So, this brings me to the actual question, what is a good crease to use when you have a lot of head and not a lot of crown height? I was going to try a simple center dent and leave the crease shallow but I'm worried that might look goofy. Suggestions?
 

ZAZ

New in Town
Messages
13
Location
Idaho
That crossed my mind but I'm not sure I can swing that look.

Also, for clarification, I have plenty of room in the front of the hat. It is only the back where I need the extra room.
 
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Messages
15,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
center dent with no creases... a little goofy, but nobody's counting.

050813.jpg
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,103
Location
San Francisco, CA
Regarding the sizing of a hat, do sizes take into consideration the sweatband?

For example, with really short hair, I measure approx 57cm with a tape, so I buy 7 1/8 hats. After measuring the inside of my hat (that has a leather sweatband), however, I found that it's actually 56ish inside, but it's labeled as 57. It fits me, but to get 57cm inside, do I have to buy a size up? All my hats are 7 1/8, and they all fit me the same, with the exception of a particular felt stetson western hat.

To be honest I am quite confused, seeing as everytime I measure, 57 is as tight as I can pull the tape before I say "I don't want my hat to be this tight," yet none of my hats are what I'd particularly call tight, and their interiors are 56ish.

The size of a hat is determined by the sweatband. The discrepancy in your measurements is likely because it's really difficult to get an accurate measure of the sweatband when it's in the hat.
 

rlk

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,100
Location
Evanston, IL
You also need to be measuring the edge of the sweatband at the widest point--any lower into the crown and the circumference becomes smaller. This requires a dedicated device , soft and/or narrow tape measure or a piece of string that is not elastic.
 
Messages
15,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
Important advice that is not given often enough.

The 2" tapering margin of error accounts for the great disparity in measurements to be found in eBay descriptions. Measuring the major axes (width and length) of the head opening at the widest point and placing into an ellipse calculator will usually have a better chance of describing the perimeter and the oval characteristics accurately.
 

GamaH

A-List Customer
Messages
406
Makes sense. Oh well, I suppose if it fits, it fits, and that's what matters.
 
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dnjan

One Too Many
Messages
1,690
Location
Seattle
So, this brings me to the actual question, what is a good crease to use when you have a lot of head and not a lot of crown height? I was going to try a simple center dent and leave the crease shallow but I'm worried that might look goofy. Suggestions?
In my experience, a center crease is the least desirable in terms of trying to maximize head room on a hat with minimal crown.
A center crease will take away about 1-1/2" of crown height (as compared to an open crown).

So, if you don't want an open crown, how about something like a diamond bash? You could then open up the centre of the diamond to gain back a bit of crown height without affecting the appearance much.
 

ZAZ

New in Town
Messages
13
Location
Idaho
I have been playing with it a bit now that the felt is saturated. The diamond bash left enough room for my head but I ran into a problem. The open crown seems to be about 5 1/2" but I need 4 1/2" for my head. Because of that the bash sits up on the dome of the crown rather than extending the full length of the hat. It looks terrible. This is rather frustrating. It seems I am doomed to wear comically large western hats, and toppers.


Edit: So I played around and I think I found something. I started with a shallow high diamond bash and then I used big creases on the front and two little ones on the back to get rid of the "dome" shape. I plan to go back with steam later and add more detail and eliminate more of the roundness. I'm not too sure about how it looks though. From some angles it looks like a stylized campaign hat. Opinions? Suggestions? I'm having fun shaping the hat, its interesting to see all the different looks a single hat can have, so if you guys have some tips I wont hesitate to throw her back in the sink and give it another whirl.

64i3Tst.jpg
 
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The Wiser Hatter

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,765
Location
Louisville, Ky
Spam ^^
Answer thou is that this forum deals with fitted hats to a hat size. Not adjustable ball caps. Which for me are nasty things. One of he reasons the average person can not find a decent hat anymore.
 

Gregorian

New in Town
Messages
21
Location
USA
I apologise for switching gears but can anyone tell me if Stetson made its Vitafelt hats from live rabbits or beaver?
 
Messages
15,083
Location
Buffalo, NY
There are a number of threads to peruse... this one is the longest and the most fun. The early forties were not supportive of loose lips, but I don't think we have any reason to believe Vita-Felt contained beavers or live rabbits or milk protein. What it likely did contain was creative marketing.
 

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