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scooter

Practically Family
Messages
905
Location
Arizona
As I perused the Art Fawcett Ribbon gallery yesterday, I took note of terminology I seen used here before, bit I never truly understood. That is, the reference to lignes on ribbons, 17 ligne, 19 ligne, 22 ligne, etc. Does this refer to the number of vertical "lignes" (lines) per linear inch in the composition of the ribbon itself?
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,103
Location
San Francisco, CA
You know exactly what I'm talking about - it actually was around three or four Cagney movies I was watching about a week or so ago, and then several other 1930s movies over the past couple days. With my long, narrow face, I'd rather stay away from a thin ribbon (Campdraft, Alessandria, Stratoliner). I am waiting for a Stetson to arrive that I purchased from a fellow Lounge member - but it's definitely in the 40s/50s style, not 30s. I may end up going with a Moonstone Fed IV, and from what I read, it's a great hat. I just wanted to consider other options. But as you say, my options may be limited.

Ahh, but changing a ribbon is quite an easy modification too.
 

Cape Sandlin

New in Town
Messages
5
I'm sure this has been asked numerous times, but I have been wearing a fedora since I was in 7th grade. I love them, because well they are overall great hats than plain baseball caps. My only thing is I've been wearing cheap 10 dollar ones, and could I get a list of what makes a good hat? In material and all? The style I was looking for is more from the movie Daybreakers. (Image below). I know nothing of good brands, good materials that would last for a good hat, how to size my head and all that. I'm sure there's a guide somewhere on this great forum. But I want my first real deal Fedora to be a good one. So I'm gonna say now thanks for any future advice.

167uosw.jpg


Ps is there someway I can change my username?
 

job

One Too Many
Messages
1,325
Location
Sanford N.C.
Cape Sandlin, I would try to go to a hat store and try some hats on. If that is not possible than you need to have someone measure your head at the point the hatband will sit on your head. One recommendation without seeing your face would be a Akubra Stylemaster. Akubras are great hats for the money. The Stylemaster is a conservative fedora. It will fit everyone well. Hats like the Akubra Federation is a hat that you have to have the right face or it looks too big on you. Try the Stylemaster. A great first rabbit felt fedora.
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,103
Location
San Francisco, CA
I'm sure this has been asked numerous times, but I have been wearing a fedora since I was in 7th grade. I love them, because well they are overall great hats than plain baseball caps. My only thing is I've been wearing cheap 10 dollar ones, and could I get a list of what makes a good hat? In material and all? The style I was looking for is more from the movie Daybreakers. (Image below). I know nothing of good brands, good materials that would last for a good hat, how to size my head and all that. I'm sure there's a guide somewhere on this great forum. But I want my first real deal Fedora to be a good one. So I'm gonna say now thanks for any future advice.

Ps is there someway I can change my username?

Well, that's not a great picture to determine the details of the hat.

But to answer your general questions: measure your head with a cloth measuring tape, like a tailor would use.

Many hats you'll find nowadays are made from wool felt. I for one, feel wool felts have their place. Although, a fur felt hat is what you really want. The best hats are generally 100% beaver fur, though many fine hats are made with wild hare, or nutria, some even have mink mixed in.

If you're looking to buy a new hat off the rack, I would second the recommendation of Akubra. Check out hatsdirect.com or David Morgan. You can also grab a vintage hat off eBay if you know your size and what to look for. My favorite vintage brand is Resistol, Stetsons are usually a pretty good bet too, as well as other brands such as Dobbs, Cavanagh, etc.

If money is no object, you can have a hat custom made to your head measurements and specifications. For that, I would recommend you check out Black Sheep Hat Works or Penman Hats. Many loungers have gotten some great lids by Mr. Art Fawcett. The creme of the crop is Optimo hats in Chicago, but they carry a pretty hefty price tag.
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,103
Location
San Francisco, CA
How much are we talking for a "pretty hefty price tag"?

My choice for Akubas is hatsdirect.com

An Optimo (optimohats.com) will run you $595, although I believe they are raising their prices to $650 when they get the new batch of felts in for next year. Bob at Black Sheep Hat Works (who I can personally vouch for the quality of his work) can make you a custom beaver hat starting at $285, or rabbit felt starting at $195.

An Akubra will be in the range of $115-$150 plus shipping.

A new off the rack fur felt Stetson will come in at around $160 and up.
 

monbla256

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,239
Location
DFW Metroplex, Texas
I'm sure this has been asked numerous times, but I have been wearing a fedora since I was in 7th grade. I love them, because well they are overall great hats than plain baseball caps. My only thing is I've been wearing cheap 10 dollar ones, and could I get a list of what makes a good hat? In material and all? The style I was looking for is more from the movie Daybreakers. (Image below). I know nothing of good brands, good materials that would last for a good hat, how to size my head and all that. I'm sure there's a guide somewhere on this great forum. But I want my first real deal Fedora to be a good one. So I'm gonna say now thanks for any future advice.

Ps is there someway I can change my username?

Cape Sandlin,
Your questions are valid ones except to give you a single answer to them would be impossible. A good idea is for you to spend some time reading posts made here in ALL the topics shown in the list given on the "Links to Important Hat Forum Threads". Take one at a time and go thru them and you'll find most of the answers you want. Unfortunatly, this knowledge is not like an "app" as many of us are used to using these days. Take your time, enjoy reading the wealth of info on these pages and THEN come back with some more explicit questions :) Welcome to the Forum :)
 

Johnny J

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,115
Location
Panama City, Florida
Can someone help me identify what this green stuff is on the back of hat were the sweatband is stitched? I have seen it on other Vtg hats.
DSC03718.jpg

I cleaned most of it off, but some penetrated thru the felt. Good thing is that the ribbon covers it.
 

T Rick

Practically Family
Messages
943
Location
Metro Detroit
Recently I've watched several 1930s movies on TCM. I've enjoyed seeing the hats. The few fedoras I currently own have lower crowns than what I'm seeing in these films. Other than the Fed IV, is there a current production hat that has a taller crown with limited (or no) taper? Or is the Fed IV the only non-custom option?

Thanks!

You know exactly what I'm talking about - it actually was around three or four Cagney movies I was watching about a week or so ago, and then several other 1930s movies over the past couple days. With my long, narrow face, I'd rather stay away from a thin ribbon (Campdraft, Alessandria, Stratoliner). I am waiting for a Stetson to arrive that I purchased from a fellow Lounge member - but it's definitely in the 40s/50s style, not 30s. I may end up going with a Moonstone Fed IV, and from what I read, it's a great hat. I just wanted to consider other options. But as you say, my options may be limited.

Though not current production (recently discontinued), the Stetson Nostalgia is another alternative if you can find one. Similar in many ways to the Akubra Fed IV, it has a bit wider ribbon. Also comes open crown like the Fed IV, brim is 2 1/2 inches all the way around, different from the Fed IV's dimensional brim. Here's a pic of mine in Caribou, sort of similar to Akubra's Moonstone.

standard.jpg
 

Johnny J

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,115
Location
Panama City, Florida
That is oxidation of the metal clasp on the sweatband reed. Copper doesn't rust like iron but produces this green substance as it oxidizes. HTH

Thanks gtdean. Do you suggest I use something in particular to clean it? Looks like it went thru the felt on the outside, but the ribbon is covering it, so you can't see it.
 

scooter

Practically Family
Messages
905
Location
Arizona
As I perused the Art Fawcett Ribbon gallery yesterday, I took note of terminology I seen used here before, bit I never truly understood. That is, the reference to lignes on ribbons, 17 ligne, 19 ligne, 22 ligne, etc. Does this refer to the number of vertical "lignes" (lines) per linear inch in the composition of the ribbon itself?

Still hoping to get an answer to this question!!
 

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