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[fmw]

I believe that they way Capone (in real like) wore his brim is in some circles called the Hollywood brim.

I think around that crowd in those days you would need to call it a Cicero brim.

 

[hatophile]

I think around that crowd in those days you would need to call it a Cicero brim.

Good point, Fred.

 

[Brad Bowers]

What modern hatter can execute a convincing D'Orsay curl?

I have yet to see one. The big problem is most hatters don't know what they are or don't understand them. One exception I've seen could be Christys'. The Bowler pictured on their site seems to be about right, though it still looks a bit clunky, which may be due to thicker felt. No one makes a felt anymore that's thin enough to get a proper streamlined D'Osary curl, and the thicker felt just ends up looking clunky.

Brad

 

[Undertow]

I am familiar with the differences in weave count and cost, as well as the two main varieties of Panama hat (Montecristi and Cuenca) but for those of you who have the finer weave counts, say 300-1000+, could you tell me how they feel in the hand?

Specifically, are they sturdier than the lower count hats? Do they breathe well? Is the money actually worth the product (i.e. are they relatively durable vs. the cheaper models)?

I currently have a Cuenca of unknown count, but it's low, probably 140 or so. The brim didn't hold shape well and it shrank very quickly. I need a hat for a July wedding coming up, so I'm thinking of dropping some dough.

I've been scanning the board for these answers but I only get bursts of time, so any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Lefty]

The looser the weave the more breezy the hat. My 500wpsi hat is pretty hot, far hotter than either of my milans from Optimo or my vintage Lee milan. (I don't have a lesser panama for comparison.)

If you're looking for durability, natural straw is probably not the best route. As soon as the rain starts to fall, you'll be running for cover.

 

[wifebeatsme]

Who else has this Lock & Co Tweed Trilby "London"?

This caught my eye

It's sold by Lock & Co but is an expensive 125 pound sterling.

I searched through the forum and supposedly Lock & Co just sells hats made by non-British companies anyway.

So Ccan I find this model somewhere else?

 

[wifebeatsme]

Ok another "should I buy this question", I want a greek fisherman (hat), and this one looks good on Lock & Co, but is expensive.

Is this worth the extra money compared to say this one at Hats in the Belfry

They look different but are both wool.

 

[monbla256]

I am familiar with the differences in weave count and cost, as well as the two main varieties of Panama hat (Montecristi and Cuenca) but for those of you who have the finer weave counts, say 300-1000+, could you tell me how they feel in the hand?

Specifically, are they sturdier than the lower count hats? Do they breathe well? Is the money actually worth the product (i.e. are they relatively durable vs. the cheaper models)?

I currently have a Cuenca of unknown count, but it's low, probably 140 or so. The brim didn't hold shape well and it shrank very quickly. I need a hat for a July wedding coming up, so I'm thinking of dropping some dough.

I've been scanning the board for these answers but I only get bursts of time, so any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

As far as being cooler, one of the patterned Semi-Collado style of Panama's would be the coolest. As for "...are they worth the money?" that is a question only YOU can answer as it depends on what YOU want a hat to look like, feel, etc. Montecristi's ar normally of a finer weave, sometimes almost impossible to see the fibers in the high, high end hats. They also are not usually bleached as the Cuenca hats are therefore are more of a natural tannish straw color as opposed to the bright white of the Cuenca's. They make two styles of weave in the Cuenca's, Brisa, more open and the Lano much finer and closer to a Montecristi.
Here's a Medio Fino grade Montecristi Semi-Colado example:

 

[Seth Hawkins]

Liner Adhesive

What kind of adhesive should I use to secure the liner to my hat? Anything special? Anything I should avoid?

The hat is an Akubra Imperial grade Camp Draft - rabbit fur felt, I believe.

 

[GamaH]

Is there actually a major difference between Panama Hats and Milan Straw Fedoras?

Also, is a Stetson Andover any good? I'm really considering that hat for the days that are too hot for felt.

 

[alexnoire]

what was a popular Bash in the 20s and 30s

 

[Brad Bowers]

One of the most popular was a center crease in the early '20s, with added front pinches by the end of the decade and into the '30s.

Brad

 

[Lefty]

Is there actually a major difference between Panama Hats and Milan Straw Fedoras

Yes, if you're dealing with real panamas (paja toquilla) and real milans (wheat straw, not paper/plastic as all Stetson and other factory "milans" are today). Material and manner of construction are completely different. Is one better? That's a matter of taste.

 

[danofarlington]

what was a popular Bash in the 20s and 30s

Don't forget the "Optimo" style, with a center ridge, no doubt a formalization of the ridge you get when you roll up a flexible Panama in a small box. That seems big in photos of the day.

 

[GamaH]

Yes, if you're dealing with real panamas (paja toquilla) and real milans (wheat straw, not paper/plastic as all Stetson and other factory "milans" are today). Material and manner of construction are completely different. Is one better? That's a matter of taste.

Wait, so is the Stetson Andover plastic/paper? It says it's made of genuine Milan straw, but you've confused me a little here.

 

[Lefty]

The problem is that the word "milan" was never established as a trade norm in hatting, leading to at least one FTC suit in the 50s. Right now, a hat can be made of popsicle sticks, wasp nests, and unicorn dreams and be called "genuine milan". Stetson does not sell a real straw milan under any model name. If you want a real milan (wheat straw braid), your choices are vintage (very available in smaller sizes) or Optimo.

Here's the FTC case for some background on the adulteration of the term.

 

[GamaH]

The problem is that the word "milan" was never established as a trade norm in hatting, leading to at least one FTC suit in the 50s. Right now, a hat can be made of popsicle sticks, wasp nests, and unicorn dreams and be called "genuine milan". Stetson does not sell a real straw milan under any model name. If you want a real milan (wheat straw braid), your choices are vintage (very available in smaller sizes) or Optimo.

Here's the FTC case for some background on the adulteration of the term.

So, what is the Andover here made of?

 

[rlk]

Genuine Straw Hat

 

[Lefty]

Plastic coated paper, paper coated plastic, polypropylene?

Check out the Milan Mania thread. You might not be able to tell the difference between something like leghorn and milan yet, but it's pretty easy to see the difference between real straw and plastic.

The same is true of this thread, where some hats look like straw, and some look like they've been attacked by Aquanet.


rlk- I love the flexibility of that one.

 

[GamaH]

Hmm, that's disappointing. Well if I were looking for a Summer hat, what are some reliable makers? I would go for a Panama, but they seem to have 3inch brims, and being short and petit, I wouldn't be able to carry that wide a brim off.