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[belfastboy]

Hi all…. Has anyone seen the Stetson Toyo straw hats enough to comment on crown height? I’m after a hat that has a somewhat taller crown than the usual run-of-the-mill straw offerings.

I’m in the UK so our selection of tall crowned hats isn’t as varied as over the pond.

Thanks!

The standard for Stetson's offering on their entire straw line is 4 1/2" crown height. I would imagine that is best you are going to get. Even going to a true Panama it is hard to find a crown height higher than that. So it depends on how one defines "taller". There is a custom hatter AbbotsWillis on Instagram that shows very tall crowned straws custom made. Not sure the price but if looking for a taaaalllll crown she be the one to try.

 

[M Hatman]

 

[The Shoe]

My wife is looking at getting a new hat. One she is considering is Heather Straw. Is anyone here familiar with it and its qualities?

 

[itsallgood]

check out FineVintageFedoras on Etsy.com Scott has good ones and if you give him the proper measure will cut to size and sew the ends for you.

How does one sew in a new sweatband? More to the point, if I cut all of the visible stitches along the reed, is there still something underneath to sew to?

I purchased a new hat off of eBay that was described as a Promo. It's a Stetson OpenRoad with a 1" ribbon. After some rigorous steaming, brushing and forming, the hat is okay and that big brim does indeed provide relaxing protection in the sun. However, I think the sweatband is made out of what's euphemistically known as "genuine leather"; it really leaves a lot to be desired. I'd like to sew in a quality sweatband, but don't want to disturb the outside ribbon in the process.

 

[Frunobulax]

How does one sew in a new sweatband? More to the point, if I cut all of the visible stitches along the reed, is there still something underneath to sew to?

I purchased a new hat off of eBay that was described as a Promo. It's a Stetson OpenRoad with a 1" ribbon. After some rigorous steaming, brushing and forming, the hat is okay and that big brim does indeed provide relaxing protection in the sun. However, I think the sweatband is made out of what's euphemistically known as "genuine leather"; it really leaves a lot to be desired. I'd like to sew in a quality sweatband, but don't want to disturb the outside ribbon in the process.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/sewing-in-a-sweatband.3852/

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/stitch-awl-tutorial-sweatband-installation.38010/

 

[belfastboy]

How does one sew in a new sweatband? More to the point, if I cut all of the visible stitches along the reed, is there still something underneath to sew to?

I purchased a new hat off of eBay that was described as a Promo. It's a Stetson OpenRoad with a 1" ribbon. After some rigorous steaming, brushing and forming, the hat is okay and that big brim does indeed provide relaxing protection in the sun. However, I think the sweatband is made out of what's euphemistically known as "genuine leather"; it really leaves a lot to be desired. I'd like to sew in a quality sweatband, but don't want to disturb the outside ribbon in the process.

The bad news is that to do it properly you will need to remove the ribbon. If you want to attempt it. ....go to Scott on ETSY.com, FineVintageFedoras. He will sell you a top quality sweat sized to your spec so it will be ready to sew in.

 

[belfastboy]

How does one sew in a new sweatband? More to the point, if I cut all of the visible stitches along the reed, is there still something underneath to sew to?

I purchased a new hat off of eBay that was described as a Promo. It's a Stetson OpenRoad with a 1" ribbon. After some rigorous steaming, brushing and forming, the hat is okay and that big brim does indeed provide relaxing protection in the sun. However, I think the sweatband is made out of what's euphemistically known as "genuine leather"; it really leaves a lot to be desired. I'd like to sew in a quality sweatband, but don't want to disturb the outside ribbon in the process.

Further info: To sew in the sweat you will need to correctly place the sweat in the hat and using a running baste stitch just under the reeded area. This is to hold the sweat in the correct allignment. Then flip the sweat up out of the hat and do a permanent stitch line along the flange area of the black reed tape. Then put the sweat back into the hat and remove the running baste stitch.
So you can see it would be difficult to achieve all this with the ribbon in place.

 

[Frunobulax]

Further info: To sew in the sweat you will need to correctly place the sweat in the hat and using a running baste stitch just under the reeded area. This is to hold the sweat in the correct allignment. Then flip the sweat up out of the hat and do a permanent stitch line along the flange area of the black reed tape. Then put the sweat back into the hat and remove the running baste stitch.
So you can see it would be difficult to achieve all this with the ribbon in place.

It's possible, but a tremendous pain in the a$$, LOL.

 

[belfastboy]

It's possible, but a tremendous pain in the a$$, LOL.

I have done it....painfully...... and I have come to the conclusion that I am better off biting the bullet and taking off the ribbon.......less painful in the long run.

 

[itsallgood]

Thanks everyone, very helpful. Now reading/watching youtubes on what is a sewing awl !

 

[jlee562]

The above linked Stitch awl guide from Brad Bowers is very helpful, it's what I used to learn. In lieu of a basting stitch, you can also pin it into place, but as you might imagine, that involves dodging the pins as you go. I'd also just take the ribbon off, especially it it has Hatco's signature poly thread tacked in the middle of the ribbon.

 

[belfastboy]

The above linked Stitch awl guide from Brad Bowers is very helpful, it's what I used to learn. In lieu of a basting stitch, you can also pin it into place, but as you might imagine, that involves dodging the pins as you go. I'd also just take the ribbon off, especially it it has Hatco's signature poly thread tacked in the middle of the ribbon.

yes, I am not nimble enough to dodge the pins so I opt to baste.

Some master hatters with sewing machines, after making thousands of hats, are still most comfortable taking the time to baste while others go straight to the machine sewing stage.

 

[mayserwegener]

The above linked Stitch awl guide from Brad Bowers is very helpful, it's what I used to learn. In lieu of a basting stitch, you can also pin it into place, but as you might imagine, that involves dodging the pins as you go. I'd also just take the ribbon off, especially it it has Hatco's signature poly thread tacked in the middle of the ribbon.

Most German and Austrian Hats (also other European manufactures) reeded sweatbands were sewn in between lower side of the reed casing and the upper edge of the sweatband leather. They were sewn through the felt (if you lift the band at the lower edge you can see the thread). You can see the gray stitches in the photo below (with some hats the stitches can be very hard to detect).

 

[Emilis]

Hi everyone.

I'm looking for information on how this specific kind of shine effect could be gained on a hat. Attaching picture for reference.

@belfastboy

 

[Bill Hughes]

Hi everyone.

I'm looking for information on how this specific kind of shine effect could be gained on a hat. Attaching picture for reference.

@belfastboy

Looks like paint to me.

 

[The Shoe]

Looks like paint to me.

Or glue?

 

[belfastboy]

Or glue?

I was wondering if you could get that by sanding into the felt deeply and removing all the nap. Or, using a very hot iron and singeing off the nap. The question is: why would anyone want to damage a felt like that?

 

[Emilis]

Could it be a clear gloss sealant or a clear acrylic varnish perhaps..?

 

[belfastboy]

Could it be a clear gloss sealant or a clear acrylic varnish perhaps..?

I think the best way to 'discover' methods of distressing a hat is to have fun, experiment, trying different ways of creating the distressed look. To me that would be the fun part of it rather than copying someone else's experiments. Dare to ruin a few felts and see what you discover. If it is a distressing look you are attempting to create then nothing really can go wrong.

 

[jlee562]

100% speculative, but I'm thinking fabric wax. I used Otter Wax on a canvas jacket once and it kinda looks like that as you begin to apply it.

I don't really get this kind of distressing though. Like, what is it supposed to be? An old, dirty hat (for lack of a better term) doesn't look anything that. I get the desire for the lived in look, but this ain't it.

E.g. Here's one that's been both naturally and artificially distressed:


A well worn western:


And another: