M Hatman
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 4,564
Yes, but you need a correct stretcher or band block that will fit your head shape. When placed/kept in the hat you can shape/re-flange the brim and it will then hold as it is now shaped to your head.I have a question, I have flattened out the brim curl on my Beaver Brand 5X several times, not totally flat just lessened the curl. It just seems to come back over time especially on the sides toward the back, I think my long oval head shape is not helping but is there a way to get it to hold shape better?
View attachment 467454 View attachment 467455
I have a couple hat stretchers, hat-jacks, that I have sanded down to be quite close to my head shape. I still have issues with the brim wanting to curl.Yes, but you need a correct stretcher or band block that will fit your head shape. When placed/kept in the hat you can shape/re-flange the brim and it will then hold as it is now shaped to your head.
Getting the correct stretcher (they come in differant sizes/shapes). Several here have had personal band blocks made for them. I have a couple but mostly I use varous hat stretchers (of which I have accumulated quite a few).
Yes, it could be that your LOval shape is pulling the hat fore & aft putting tension on the brim and pulling it out of shape. No real great fix for this save for tearing it down and reblocking to fit your shape.I have a question, I have flattened out the brim curl on my Beaver Brand 5X several times, not totally flat just lessened the curl. It just seems to come back over time especially on the sides toward the back, I think my long oval head shape is not helping but is there a way to get it to hold shape better?
View attachment 467454 View attachment 467455
I come back to my opinion that the hat is a Reg Oval and with your Long oval shape you are putting tension on the brim which distorts it. It happens to me as well trying to fit a RO onto my LO head.I have a couple hat stretchers, hat-jacks, that I have sanded down to be quite close to my head shape. I still have issues with the brim wanting to curl.
A LOT depends on how much of a LO you are AND the difficulty of getting the crown to conform and STAY conformed. Often a stretcher properly placed (no deeper than the width of the sweat) will need to remain for a very long time for the hat to respond and develop "memory". A lot of patience is required.I have a couple hat stretchers, hat-jacks, that I have sanded down to be quite close to my head shape. I still have issues with the brim wanting to curl.
What’s the best western hat by Stetson? Is it old 100x ones or the old 7x clear beaver quality?
What’s the best western hat by Stetson? Is it old 100x ones or the old 7x clear beaver quality?
I had read.. I think on this site. That the 100 of certain era was essentially 7XCB badged as 100 with a fancy 100 box. Never have had a 100 in hand to compare to my 7XCBThe 100 was a price and not X’s, the 7X Clear was a $50+ hat depending upon its size, brim and crown…I highly recommend them both…
I had read.. I think on this site. That the 100 of certain era was essentially 7XCB badged as 100 with a fancy 100 box. Never have had a 100 in hand to compare to my 7XCB
Thanks VicThe first that I have seen 100’s mentioned in Stetson ads is 1952. I believe that I have seen 7X’s mentioned in THE HAT BOX back in the 20’s….your mileage my very…
No.....Nutra was in the middle...3X,4X, 5X and of course 7XBeaver were better (IE More expensive) hats.Those are good choices. For pre-war hats, the Boss Raw Edge hats were the top of the line, which I believe would make Clear Nutria the best quality for that time period.