pacolizarraga
Familiar Face
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If the felt is thin with not enough meat to pounce a little I would try a 3M white non abrasive pad. I use them to 'polish' the felt. It gets the felt fibres aligned with the nap without removing any fibres.
I picked mine up on Amazon. The 3M ones are pricey but Mercer makes some that look the same and are cheaper.Belfast - can you post a link (or send a DM) with the exact 3M product you mention above?
I googled "3M white non abrasive pad" and several different items came up.
Who knows more about this hat ?
Is it 100% Beaver?
Is it 100% Rabbit?
Is it some blend of Beaver/Rabbit?
and at what price does it cost
Anyone know what might have happened to the crown of this modern Borsalino? Do you think it can be easily repaired?
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Short of not having been sanded by large grit paper or brushed with a wire brush, it looks like it's unfelting. It could be caused by a poor felting process & some cheaper felts can start to fall apart if they are 'over' manipulated or repeatedly creased. If it is bad felting then there isn't a great deal to be done. Careful sanding may render the surface a little smoother (if there is sufficient thickness of felt) or spraying with a fine mist of alcohol & flaming it but if the fibres are disconnecting, you can't force them back in, even by hitting them with a hammer.
On the lower cost Stetsons they have been known to use..."Genuine Leather" in their sweats which is a euphemism for reconstituted leather made from the residue left over from the tanning process. It is terrible stuff.I have a black Gun Club "Royal Flush" as well, in black. Label says it was made in 2001.
I've (obviously) replaced the studded black leather hat band.
One thing I'm not happy about with the hat -- the sweatband started to disintegrate, leaving black marks on my head. I've now re-sealed the leather (clear leather top-coat finish).
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It is not that hard. There are a number of Etsy sellers....FineVintageFedoras sell them and you can buy them cut and sewn to your size. Once you receive it I can walk you through it. If the hat fits you then remove the sweat, separate it at the join and measure it's length. That way you can order an accurate replacement.> It is terrible stuff.
Indeed, re-constituted leather would explain it.
We had a couch once made with that stuff, fell apart in a couple years, worse: flaking pieces of "leather" got everywhere. Never again.
It might just be time to pull the bad liner and put in a nice new one... which would be a first for me - I've never sewed before.
Great hat! Definitely 1940s or ‘50s but others here might know more.Hi Guys!!
Good morning, I just received the following hat size 7 1/4, any idea about the era, no labels inside the sweat.
Brim is almost 3"
I bought 5, but one cannot be found. It never left the house though.
Where is my hat?
(I bought 5, but one cannot be found. It never left the house though.)
I guess this may be a bit of a rhetorical question of sorts.
Moths? ;-)
Hmmm . . . Do moths like hemp?Moths? ;-)
They're always in the last place you look.
Your hat, your choice. But - maybe try some other options first. Maybe use less padding at the temple area. And/or maybe you can work the sweatband so the ripples move towards the back of the hat.I have a vintage fedora that had a new sweatband installed. It was a little roomy on me so I've put some folded strips of paper towel front and back and it fits much better. Unfortunately, the padding is making the sweatband ripple along the top so that I feel the leather pressing against my temple on either side enough that it is quite noticeable and annoying.
Discounting any presentation or resale issues -- could I just cut out triangular sections along the top of the sweat on either side to relieve the pressure? The sweat is two inches tall, I was thinking about notches on either side about 3/4" tall. Anyone every done this successfully? Advice or considerations?
Thanks!
David