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[Samson25]

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/hornskov-hats-custom-danish-hatter.99899/

Thank You !

 

[campbell166]

Hi guys is it possible to stretch a suede/ pigskin trilby by about 3 CMS ? I want to stretch it from 59 to 61 ISH ....I am not bothered if the sweat band has to be removed
I need the hat for part of a costume so I am looking to buy a cheap used one and 59 is the largest I have seen
Thanks

 

[tamz0r]

out of curiosity, what are the pros and cons of a western weight, compared to a dress weight?

more specifically, is there a significant difference when worn in hot weather (ie will it make your head feel hotter?)

 

[Rmccamey]

Any help identifying this one? All I have is the crown patch (a bowler with no liner) and the size tag. Nothing under the sweatband.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

out of curiosity, what are the pros and cons of a western weight, compared to a dress weight?

There’s a lot to this answer. Much depends on the hats intended use, dimensions desired, and generally what you want from the hat. Western felt is typically thicker, much stiffer/firmer, and available in larger dimensions. Dress weight felt is typically thinner, more malleable, and available is smaller dimensions.

If you have a more specific question about the felt differences you might get more responses.

 

[tamz0r]

There’s a lot to this answer. Much depends on the hats intended use, dimensions desired, and generally what you want from the hat. Western felt is typically thicker, much stiffer/firmer, and available in larger dimensions. Dress weight felt is typically thinner, more malleable, and available is smaller dimensions.

If you have a more specific question about the felt differences you might get more responses.

thx for the tip. i edited the original post

 

[deadlyhandsome]

out of curiosity, what are the pros and cons of a western weight, compared to a dress weight?

more specifically, is there a significant difference when worn in hot weather (ie will it make your head feel hotter?)

Since western weight felt is thicker I guess there could be some differences in the felt’s insulation values. I find all felt too warm to wear when the weather heats up. Some folks wear felt year around, but although I like felt best I’m forced to wear straw half the year.

 

[belfastboy]

Hi guys is it possible to stretch a suede/ pigskin trilby by about 3 CMS ? I want to stretch it from 59 to 61 ISH ....I am not bothered if the sweat band has to be removed
I need the hat for part of a costume so I am looking to buy a cheap used one and 59 is the largest I have seen
Thanks

3cm is a loooong stretch. You def need to remove the sweat band. But as a caution try to vision what the hat would look like if you stretch it 3cm only at the area of the sweat band. What effect can you see that having on the rest of the crown? You will create some major distortion and perhaps end up with a hat for a cone head. But if it is cheap enough buy it and give it a shot.

 

[campbell166]

Thanks for your advice, I understand what you mean, however it’s only for a fancy dress party next month and it is cheap, so I will give it a shot.....fingers crossed ......

 

[glider]

out of curiosity, what are the pros and cons of a western weight, compared to a dress weight?

more specifically, is there a significant difference when worn in hot weather (ie will it make your head feel hotter?)

A heavier/thicker fur felt, that is usually found on western hats, will deal with the weather better than a dress weight felt. Western hats are actually work hats although some are pretty damn fancy and expensive. Stetson has one that is 5 grand.

 

[JeffOYB]

I'd like to get another nice felt hat. I have one I like for this time of year. Have had it for decades. A Stetson, still seems great.

I see there's just as big of a price range for felt as for woven. Yet I can easily see the improved niceness of a good Panama while felt looks one similar to another. What am I missing? If it's nothing too obvious I'll just keep shopping on my merry way.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

I'd like to get another nice felt hat. I have one I like for this time of year. Have had it for decades. A Stetson, still seems great.

I see there's just as big of a price range for felt as for woven. Yet I can easily see the improved niceness of a good Panama while felt looks one similar to another. What am I missing? If it's nothing too obvious I'll just keep shopping on my merry way.

Felt hats are just like hot dogs...while looking similar to another, the ingredients become very obvious once experienced.
B

 

[Frunobulax]

Felt hats are just like hot dogs...while looking similar to another, the ingredients become very obvious once experienced.
B

Words of Wisdom.

 

[jlee562]

I think we need to define our parameters here. The quality difference is fairly evident if one is able to handle say, a pre-war hat vs a modern factory hat.

If you're looking at new, off the rack hats, stay away from wool and anything sized S/M/L/XL. Of the current Stetson line up, the more expensive felt really is nicer than the lower end felt, but when you get into the pricing of top of the line modern Stetsons, one might be better served by getting a custom hat. If you're getting a custom hat, I'd recommend a hatter that uses the beaver/beaver blend felts from FEPSA in Portugal.

Other things to look for? Pay attention to the trimmings. Modern Stetsons notoriously use clear poly thread to tack ribbons on that often can be overbearing. Look at the consistency of the color, it should be uniform. Look at how the sweatband has been installed, it should be flush with the brim. The firmness or lack thereof is not necessarily an indicator of quality. Some modern consumers associate the stiffness with quality, but it really just means more shellac was added.

 

[johnnycanuck]

Are you asking for felt grading information or hat recommendations?
As for grading I will try and break it down.
Wool - is the cheapest hats on the market. It’s because wool shrinks and looses its shape with heat and moisture. If it’s a “once in a while” hat it can last for years. If it’s a daily wear rain or shine it will probably last you a year. It’s usually feels quite rough in hand.
Buffalo - about the same as wool
Rabbit - is usually middle of the road pricing. In Stetson 6X is 100% rabbit. Any less is a wool blend. Rabbit is slower to shrink and will maintain its shape. It is a lot more resistant to heat and moisture. If it’s a once in a while hat it should last a lifetime. If it’s a daily wear rain or shine it should last you for years. It usually feels nice in hand.
Beaver - usually the most expensive hat before you get into minks and the like. Beaver is darn near water proof and if done right should not shrink or loose it’s shape. Unless abused this hat should last you a lifetime. Feels soft and supple in hand. Only added point with beaver is it will get dirty over time so to keep it looking good decade after decade it will need to be sent off for a cleaning.
Hope that answers some of your question.
Johnny

 

[belfastboy]

Words of Wisdom.

My mother, who worked in an abattoir/meat packing plant in her youth , when I asked her what was in a hot dog......she replied, "Don't ask, you don't wanna know."

 

[Sonero]

My lowest quality hats have been the most durable and easy to wear.....just saying If I were to do it all over again I would own a total of maybe 5 hats.
1 Panama
1 black 1 brown straw
1 black 1 brown short brim Homburg

 

[belfastboy]

I'd like to get another nice felt hat. I have one I like for this time of year. Have had it for decades. A Stetson, still seems great.

I see there's just as big of a price range for felt as for woven. Yet I can easily see the improved niceness of a good Panama while felt looks one similar to another. What am I missing? If it's nothing too obvious I'll just keep shopping on my merry way.

Felts/hats are like any other commodity there is a general correlation between price and quality with the usual exceptions that complicate things. In a very general sense the cheaper fur felt hats will be stiffer through the generous use of stiffeners to make up for the lack of substance in the felt itself. Beaver felt while considered the top of the food chain there still exists quality levels within that category......which part of the beaver does the felt originate? Location makes a difference. I would say trust what you see, trust what you feel in your hand and if you like it buy it. Accept you may err and buy a hat that doesn't stand up but at the end of the day you are not talking a huge $$ outlay. I have modern Stetsons that are made with a wonderful feeling felt that didn't stand up at all, weren't a 'good' buy. The first bit of moisture and the brim went all wonky, not a felt issue per se but a construction issue and one that cannot be discerned holding it in your hand in the store. Only time/wear and tear will reveal that to you. Buy what you like, buy what pleases you and takes your chances.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

My least expensive hats have tapered, shrunk, and fought my attempts to shape them while also looking like cheap junk. Even some of my cheap fur felt hats have been huge disappointments.

Still, some of the low to mid-grade westerns from the 1960s through 1980s have become some of my favorites. My better vintage and my best custom hats are orders of magnitude better than any of the cheap felt hats I’ve owned or seen.

 

[belfastboy]

Felts/hats are like any other commodity there is a general correlation between price and quality with the usual exceptions that complicate things. In a very general sense the cheaper fur felt hats will be stiffer through the generous use of stiffeners to make up for the lack of substance in the felt itself. Beaver felt while considered the top of the food chain there still exists quality levels within that category......which part of the beaver does the felt originate? Location makes a difference. I would say trust what you see, trust what you feel in your hand and if you like it buy it. Accept you may err and buy a hat that doesn't stand up but at the end of the day you are not talking a huge $$ outlay. I have modern Stetsons that are made with a wonderful feeling felt that didn't stand up at all, weren't a 'good' buy. The first bit of moisture and the brim went all wonky, not a felt issue per se but a construction issue and one that cannot be discerned holding it in your hand in the store. Only time/wear and tear will reveal that to you. Buy what you like, buy what pleases you and takes your chances.

One other aspect I neglected to mention is the the weight of the felt. The weight can vary greatly. I have felts that range from 100gr lighter weight millinery grade, to 120, 140, 160 and topping out at 210gram western weight. I can make a stiff hat out of the 120 gram but it requires a fair bit of stiffener to give it structure. I have 210gr western weight beaver that are very substantial felts but not overly stiff as the weight of the fibre itself gives it ample substance/stiffness.