Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

JessieJames

One of the Regulars
Messages
280
Location
Canada
Can anyone provide a simple explanation of how reshaping with steam works? And I mean, the steam/humidity loosens the fibres and you are able to rework it.

But then how does it work for it stiffen back up? How come the felt doesn't stretch out with time?

Kind of more the scientific reasoning for it
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,108
Location
San Francisco, CA
Can anyone provide a simple explanation of how reshaping with steam works? And I mean, the steam/humidity loosens the fibres and you are able to rework it.

But then how does it work for it stiffen back up? How come the felt doesn't stretch out with time?

Kind of more the scientific reasoning for it

it's more to do with the stiffener/shellac than the felt fibers themselves, though I don't know the mechanics of it. Felts tend to shrink over time, which manifests as tapering of the crown, or curling of the brim.
 

Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
Where is Walter White when you need him?

My understanding is that the fibers in the fur have microscopic barbs that interlock. This keeps the body of the furred animal warm, as a thermal barrier to external, ambient temperatures. These microscopic, interlocking, hooks are the reason that the fur fibers can be felted using heat, warmth and pressure, resulting in a finished membrane resistant to stress, and even to water.

Did that sound scientific?

I've had pretty good luck returning hats newer than the 60s to open crown condition. I use quite a bit of steam, then both stretch them over a rounded top block ( or a hard ball wrapped in foil) and also knead the high point of the old crease down, pushing the fibers out as much as I can into the surrounding area that was previously stretched while the high points were compressed in shaping the hat.
As a way to learn blocking, I've been soaking old, cheap felt hats in water until they return to their pre hat form. One thing I discovered in my earlier attempts to block them back into a hat, is that the felt will try to retain thick areas. Whether these exist from previous shaping, or from the wet felting itself, I can't say. If you watch a youtube of someone hand felting a hood you'll see that the fibers at the sides of the hood, where the front and back meet, are laced together with more precision than the 'field' area. I have several of these hoods that were once hats. Ill check them tomorrow to see if I can find thicker, denser parts formed in that way.
 

Hat and Rehat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,444
Location
Denver
Shellac is a natural resinous material. They used to finish furniture with it, but no one does anymore. This is, in part, because water will cause it to soften. If you've seen an old table that got very noticable, white, water rings from the condensation of water on a glass, it was probably finished with shellac.
If you wanted to refinish the table with something more resistant to water, all you need to strip the shellac is denatured alcahol. No matter how old the finish is, it will disolve quite easy. The same thing should be true of hats. I would only experiment on dark felt though. The alcahol can also bleach out parts of a light hat.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Where is Walter White when you need him?

My understanding is that the fibers in the fur have microscopic barbs that interlock. This keeps the body of the furred animal warm, as a thermal barrier to external, ambient temperatures. These microscopic, interlocking, hooks are the reason that the fur fibers can be felted using heat, warmth and pressure, resulting in a finished membrane resistant to stress, and even to water.

Did that sound scientific?

I've had pretty good luck returning hats newer than the 60s to open crown condition. I use quite a bit of steam, then both stretch them over a rounded top block ( or a hard ball wrapped in foil) and also knead the high point of the old crease down, pushing the fibers out as much as I can into the surrounding area that was previously stretched while the high points were compressed in shaping the hat.
As a way to learn blocking, I've been soaking old, cheap felt hats in water until they return to their pre hat form. One thing I discovered in my earlier attempts to block them back into a hat, is that the felt will try to retain thick areas. Whether these exist from previous shaping, or from the wet felting itself, I can't say. If you watch a youtube of someone hand felting a hood you'll see that the fibers at the sides of the hood, where the front and back meet, are laced together with more precision than the 'field' area. I have several of these hoods that were once hats. Ill check them tomorrow to see if I can find thicker, denser parts formed in that way.

I’ve taken stiff modern hats to open crown and reshaped them without too much trouble too. I use a heated aluminum hat block most of the time. That, and lots of steam and time.

You can get them to look pretty good, but the felt is still low quality. There is no comparison to a vintage hat. Even new custom 100% beaver dress weight hats don’t come close to the better vintage hats.

When it comes to fur felt hats, our sows’ ears will never be silk purses.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

JessieJames

One of the Regulars
Messages
280
Location
Canada
Where is Walter White when you need him?

My understanding is that the fibers in the fur have microscopic barbs that interlock. This keeps the body of the furred animal warm, as a thermal barrier to external, ambient temperatures. These microscopic, interlocking, hooks are the reason that the fur fibers can be felted using heat, warmth and pressure, resulting in a finished membrane resistant to stress, and even to water.

That's what I figured but what I'm curious to know is how a quality hat, specifically vintage where they didn't use shellac, can constantly be reshaped without any problem, won't the fibres eventually give out or loosen up?
 

JessieJames

One of the Regulars
Messages
280
Location
Canada
Or is there always shellac even a little on a hat? And if you keep reshaping, do you have to reapply? I heard hairspray works but I'm sure not there are specific hairsprays that work better
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,108
Location
San Francisco, CA
That's what I figured but what I'm curious to know is how a quality hat, specifically vintage where they didn't use shellac, can constantly be reshaped without any problem, won't the fibres eventually give out or loosen up?

Again, felt tends to tighten over time, not loosen. Archaic trade sources actually talk about "aging" the felt blanks before blocking them, as this helps deaden the felt.

What will happen over time with constant manipulation, is the development of weak spots in the felt, and you'll end up with a Johnny Depp pinch hole.
 

Steinbockhase

Practically Family
Messages
514
Location
Munich, Bavaria, Germany
What does that mean? I tried googling that and surprise, it didn't turn up any results ha just a lot of photos of Johnny Depp

"Johnny Depp pinch hole"

Johnny Depp.jpg
 

AbbaDatDeHat

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,870
That's what I figured but what I'm curious to know is how a quality hat, specifically vintage where they didn't use shellac, can constantly be reshaped without any problem, won't the fibres eventually give out or loosen up?
Hey JJ:
Since you started with a magnificent 7X CB Stetson, here’s a great deal on a super great Borsa in your size.
Guaranteed to turn all the boys heads!!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/123700591063

Might as well start off right!
B
 

JessieJames

One of the Regulars
Messages
280
Location
Canada
Hey JJ:
Since you started with a magnificent 7X CB Stetson, here’s a great deal on a super great Borsa in your size.
Guaranteed to turn all the boys heads!!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/123700591063

Might as well start off right!
B

Oh she is a beauty. And why would you vouch for this hat? What makes it "good"?
I don't see info on the fur quality or the year?
And I wish there was crown height information, the seller doesn't allow for me to send questions in the "contact seller" and the seller isn't shipping to anywhere but the USA :(

looks like it'll need a bit of reshaping on the brim
I actually don't have a light grey in my collection and have been wanting one

there's also this one but it's more expensive https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1940s-Gray-Borsalino-Alessandria-Wind-Trolley-Fur-Felt-Fedora-Hat-6-7-8/283187279549?_trkparms=aid=888007&algo=DISC.MBE&ao=1&asc=20131227121020&meid=b31711eab9bc4e8b942d3961849313c2&pid=100009&rk=1&rkt=1&sd=123700591063&itm=283187279549&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982
 
Last edited:

AbbaDatDeHat

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,870
6CCE4B30-D0FF-44F2-A57E-0C833E69D66A.jpeg
C502C408-2180-4D3A-983D-67A37D03CB0D.jpeg
Oh she is a beauty. And why would you vouch for this hat? What makes it "good"?
I don't see info on the fur quality or the year?
And I wish there was crown height information, the seller doesn't allow for me to send questions in the "contact seller"

looks like it'll need a bit of reshaping on the brim
I actually don't have a light grey in my collection and have been wanting one

there's also this one but it's more expensive https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1940s-Gray-Borsalino-Alessandria-Wind-Trolley-Fur-Felt-Fedora-Hat-6-7-8/283187279549?_trkparms=aid=888007&algo=DISC.MBE&ao=1&asc=20131227121020&meid=b31711eab9bc4e8b942d3961849313c2&pid=100009&rk=1&rkt=1&sd=123700591063&itm=283187279549&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982
Good questions.
Simply because i have the same hat and it is a very fine example of wonderful thin felt and a pleasure to wear. I have no tie to the seller.
B
 

JessieJames

One of the Regulars
Messages
280
Location
Canada
View attachment 166559 View attachment 166560
Good questions.
Simply because i have the same hat and it is a very fine example of wonderful thin felt and a pleasure to wear. I have no tie to the seller.
B
oh that is so pretty, I can see myself wearing it with my leather jackets.
It's a darker grey than I thought on your photos, especially the second.

Oh could you tell me what the crown height is?

so if it's thin felt it's easy to shape? Does it retain shape pretty well?
Do you know anything about the quality of the fur and what era it's from? Just to quench my curiosity.
 

AbbaDatDeHat

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,870
oh that is so pretty, I can see myself wearing it with my leather jackets.
It's a darker grey than I thought on your photos, especially the second.

Oh could you tell me what the crown height is?

so if it's thin felt it's easy to shape? Does it retain shape pretty well?
Do you know anything about the quality of the fur and what era it's from? Just to quench my curiosity.
Good questions again JJ.
Crown @4 1/2” my crease.
Open crown @ 5 1/2”.
Brim 2 3/4”.
Felt creases like a dream dry and stays like a good dog.
Guess @ 1960s...not sure, but it’s an era of good Borsa’s.
It’s one of my better Borsalinos and i really like Borsa’s!!
It’s a fine hat in anybody’s book or i wouldn’t have suggested it. Imho
Hope that helps.
B
 

JessieJames

One of the Regulars
Messages
280
Location
Canada
Good questions again JJ.
Crown @4 1/2” my crease.
Open crown @ 5 1/2”.
Brim 2 3/4”.
Felt creases like a dream dry and stays like a good dog.
Guess @ 1960s...not sure, but it’s an era of good Borsa’s.
It’s one of my better Borsalinos and i really like Borsa’s!!
It’s a fine hat in anybody’s book or i wouldn’t have suggested it. Imho
Hope that helps.
B

it definitely does :) Thank you for the info.
I think i'm going to bite the bullet because, I really do love grey, my wardrobe is mainly white, black, lots of black, some grey. So this grey with black matches my wardrobe exactly.

Does the brim reshape and stay with some steam? Your brim looks good but the ebay listing it needs a little TLC

Oh lawd, only 2 days on this forum and I've already bought 2 hats?
(My coworker in the States is going to help me with shipping so I'm set for that)
This is going to be so bad on my wallet
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
109,640
Messages
3,085,587
Members
54,471
Latest member
rakib
Top