Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[Bluechel]

I solved it. It’s an older Branded Garments jacket from their peak quality years (IMO) like when they used the “gold” label (all gold lettering and logo on a black background)

 

[AHP91]

I'm on the hunt for a jacket like this -- if anyone has seen something similar to this, let me know. thanks

funny enough, this exact jacket showed up on Ebay today. Originally came from Japan (for less than half the current asking price)

 

[Rich22]

What's everyone's opinion on the gap you get with shoulder gussets? Between the back and the sleeve. I prefer a snugger fit/smaller gap.

 

[MrProper]

View attachment 545429
What's everyone's opinion on the gap you get with shoulder gussets? Between the back and the sleeve. I prefer a snugger fit/smaller gap.

I have had this gap in all jackets with shoulder gussets and find it ok so. But in the meantime I prefer my jackets without gussets.

 

[tmitchell59]

funny enough, this exact jacket showed up on Ebay today. Originally came from Japan (for less than half the current asking price)

This is traditional cossack style c.1934. A jacket I have sought. The Condition issues would need much further clarification. My interest is limited by the size. As popular as these were they are rarely seen today.

 

[Al 916]

View attachment 545429
What's everyone's opinion on the gap you get with shoulder gussets? Between the back and the sleeve. I prefer a snugger fit/smaller gap.

Depends on your need for riding or movement

 

[Rich22]

Depends on your need for riding or movement

I meant the width of the gap... sometimes it is larger than other times, like in the photo I attached, on the larger end.

 

[Canuck Panda]

It's wider sometimes could be due to two things. One is that the shoulder gusset isn't stitched all the way to the top shoulder seam so it will continue to stretch when the elastic stretches. The other is that it was just designed that way and there is wider leather panel there.
The thing with all action pleats shoulder or full back is that they will continue to expand as the elastic loosen up. If you are constantly stressing the elastic in warmer temps it looses its ability to retract faster, just becomes a cloth band really.
If you like the tucked in look, just have to replace elastic more frequently. So you still get that new look but also the benefit of the extra range of motions.
The elastic usually looses its elasticity for me within the first year. Every used jacket I bought has had shot elastics bands.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Which USA maker did the OEM work for Ralph Lauren when they were made in the USA? Any dating by the label?

The leather was very thick and the stitching was very detailed.

 

[Blackadder]

Which USA maker did the OEM work for Ralph Lauren when they were made in the USA? Any dating by the label?
View attachment 545744
View attachment 545745
The leather was very thick and the stitching was very detailed.

The Ralph Lauren label looks a bit off to me.

 

[Canuck Panda]

The Ralph Lauren label looks a bit off to me.

Do you think it's a counterfeit jacket? There are lots of counterfeit Polos shirts I know that.
I'll stick to more current stuff for now then.

 

[Rmccamey]

I'm new to this side of TFL, coming over from the Hat side. Thanks for having me.

Can someone point me to a few threads that show an array of, in my words, "business casual" leather jackets. I have a wonderful leather motorcycle jacket from Freedom Leathers in El Paso, TX but a) the proprietor passed away several years ago and b) it is a riding jacket, so it weighs a ton! Once I find a style or pattern I like, then I can start exploring brands and/or custom options.

Thanks.

 

[Al 916]

Good morning and welcome to the jacket side.

Try the thread 'What jacket are you wearing today' it will give you the best array.

I'm new to this side of TFL, coming over from the Hat side. Thanks for having me.

Can someone point me to a few threads that show an array of, in my words, "business casual" leather jackets. I have a wonderful leather motorcycle jacket from Freedom Leathers in El Paso, TX but a) the proprietor passed away several years ago and b) it is a riding jacket, so it weighs a ton! Once I find a style or pattern I like, then I can start exploring brands and/or custom options.

Thanks.

 

[Rmccamey]

I will, thanks.

Good morning and welcome to the jacket side.

Try the thread 'What jacket are you wearing today' it will give you the best array.

 

[navetsea]

the closer the gap toward your shoulder especially when the other end of the gusset is only at the side panel seam, the less functioning the shoulder expansion it will have, I have tried several setting very close to the side, medium, or very high closer to the neck, function wise I think the higher works better since it mimics where your shoulder blade is at and gives expansion where it is needed, if you reach forward your collar bone is moving forward so it will pull the entire top back forward the same when reaching up, so the closer the gusset to the neck the better it works function wise.

and I usually want my gusset goes all the way including the side panel all the way to the side seam and not stopping at the side panel like that.

 

[Blackadder]

The Ralph Lauren label looks a bit off to me.

That's my thought

 

[AHP91]

Can anyone identify this type of leather? It's on a 40s Block Bilt jacket. I'm a bit worried it's capeskin - I've heard capeskin doesn't quite hold up as well as others. Thanks

 

[Canuck Panda]

I want to say kip but I’m not sure. The grains are so small and tight it looks like it’s from a younger and smaller animal.

Block belt prices are all over the places. 350 to 2700. If I recall there was one on Etsy for ridiculous asking price before.

ponyhide one sold for 50k yen so 350. This is the one I would copy actually, the back is very interesting.

but this goat buffed grain one sold for 280k yen. 2700 dollars? Looks like every other D pocket aviator. This one doesn’t even have the half bitten D pocket like the phantom Johnson Bros with the always open center vent back. I just don’t get it.

I remember coming cross this brand when I was collecting design inspiration pics for my 5star projects a few years back. While I found the Block Bilt stuff interesting like hand stitched topstitches I never figured out the dramatic price differences.

 

[tmitchell59]

Can anyone identify this type of leather? It's on a 40s Block Bilt jacket. I'm a bit worried it's capeskin - I've heard capeskin doesn't quite hold up as well as others. Thanks

i am familiar with this jacket from etsy. Yes it is Capeskin, one reason I hesitate. I have a mint Capeskin jacket from this era, very few survive in even the condition of this Block. Capeskin was a very popular leather especially on the West Coast. Light and easy to wear in warmer climates. All the catalogs offered capeskin aviators. This one may be listed in a wards catalog under their label.

They just evaporate. I have a basically unworn Capeskin McGregor I bought for the grommet zipper. It is evaporating and looks unworn.

This is an interesting jacket and in a different hide would be worth their original asking price.

they are delicate.

I just posted a Block police jacket from 1939 in steerhide that has the same back design but with a side buckles. Capeskin is too weak to support the weight of the buckles so they used the pleats for adjustment.

I would buy the brochure!

 

[Nacho]

I’ve recently got this leather/wool cardigan. Something new for a change. Kinda tired of looking at all these MCs, cop jackets and half-belts. It’d be cool to get a short wool half-belt though.

Anyways, I think the leather is capeskin based on the softness and how grainy it is. Also, the tag says imported leather. And capeskin comes from a type of long haired sheep from the Cape of Good Hope, South Africa so that makes sense.

The jacket is dated in the 30s according to Terry. I also see another jacket with the same label plus the Union tag so this one is definitely that old. Nevertheless, the leather holds up pretty well. Got a nice soft hand and very flexible. Certainly suitable with the wool.

Size 40 but fits like a 42. Cool sweater to wear at Christmas’ dinner. Definitely better than those regular ones with reindeers and shit lol.