Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[Pandemic]

I’m still churning over ideas for a black jacket and have some questions for the Vanson gurus here:

Is the Gambler the same as the Arrow?

Firenze and X150 are both listed as medium weight cow hides: what are the main differences?

Did I read somewhere that Vanson will do custom orders? If I wanted an Arrow in comp weight with an inch added to the length and an inch off the sleeves, would they do that or refer me to Thurston?

 

[Moontanning]

This jacket is not leather but I love this blue. Really, the design in general looks nice to me. Probably would need some tweaks to make it out of leather but which makers have a reputation for or can do any sort of color matching?

 

[handymike]

Bates- #20 Ultra

https://batesleathers.com/suit-designs

 

[Guppy]

I’m still churning over ideas for a black jacket and have some questions for the Vanson gurus here:

Is the Gambler the same as the Arrow?

Firenze and X150 are both listed as medium weight cow hides: what are the main differences?

Did I read somewhere that Vanson will do custom orders? If I wanted an Arrow in comp weight with an inch added to the length and an inch off the sleeves, would they do that or refer me to Thurston?

The Arrow and the Gambler are the same pattern. Leather, lining may vary.

Thurston seems to be the only seller using the Gambler name as far as I'm aware, I don't know why they changed the name, probably marketing reasons.

Vanson will do customization. Call and ask for details.

 

[Kubatu]

How challenging is it to dye a black jacket to a different color, like navy blue, british racing green, or red? Are there any guides to doing something like that here?

I was admiring HM's racing green brooks jacket for the tenth time today, and I was just curious how difficult it is to reproduce. There is a wide selection of black Brooks cafe racers, but these brighter versions are much more uncommon. So at the risk of sounding ignorant to the amount of labor that would be involved, what's stopping someone from creating their own unique Brooks jacket out of a black one?

 

[Carlos840]

View attachment 337751 I’ve been looking to add a black jacket to my collection and I’ve had my eye on d-pocket crosszip. Now I really like the stud and jewel j24 that Lost Worlds does, but does anyone know who else makes one? From what I’ve read about LW on here, they probably would not be my first choice. Just wanted to see if there are other people that make something similar

IMO no, nobody else makes a "similar" jacket.
I would not worry too much if i where you, there are many TFL member that have ordered from LW without any poroblems.
I have ordered 5 jackets from them and haven't had any issues.
If you really want a LW J-24 get one, you won't regret it.

 

[Pandemic]

How challenging is it to dye a black jacket to a different color, like navy blue, british racing green, or red? Are there any guides to doing something like that here?

I was admiring HM's racing green brooks jacket for the tenth time today, and I was just curious how difficult it is to reproduce. There is a wide selection of black Brooks cafe racers, but these brighter versions are much more uncommon. So at the risk of sounding ignorant to the amount of labor that would be involved, what's stopping someone from creating their own unique Brooks jacket out of a black one?

I’ve only dyed shoes and belts, but in my experience you can’t dye lighter - you can only go darker.

 

[handymike]

You might be able to get to an olive green if you started with a beige/cream colored one, but I doubt you could re-create the BRG color. The older leathers seem to be dyed all the way through, not a lighter top coat like on @ton312’s Five Star. Even when he attacked the jacket with the acetone the color didn’t come off easily or evenly. It would be best to start off with a Natural leather and dye from there. Only issue might be the thread. If it’s nylon, it might not take the color the same way.
Bates offers a color called #29-Forest that is close. If you try to dye a distressed black one, you will only effect the grey/brown worn areas. It will look more like over-dyed jeans. It might be cool, or it might not.

 

[Will Zach]

Here's a literally NOS Brooks in (I think) BRG. Too bad it is super-tiny.
I think it is worth the asking price because of rarity.

https://poshmark.com/listing/Vintag...bxd3Nap8XPUG0lwTEdda_ViiHNinBYMoaAm4FEALw_wcB

Stunning IMO.

 

[dwilson]

Probably a super easy question but I'm looking for recommendations on jackets to keep my eye out for to be my next. Effectively I have the following criteria:

* Collared
* Non-zip hand pockets
* Single piece back or darted or action (basically just not 2 piece)
* Button cuffs
* Japanese made
* Black

The two that seem to fit the criteria almost perfectly are the Joe McCoy Nelson and the Rainbow Country Herc repro. Others that are similar are Freewheeler's Bodie but I have concerns about the overall fit on that one. Caboose seems perfect but I think that is defunct for the time being. If given even more wants I'd also like a modern zipper but that seems nearly impossible with much of my previous criteria. I'd also like one that has wider shoulders compared to the width but most in this cut seem ~46-47cm shoulders with ~52cm width.

 

[Monitor]

Can anyone from Italy help me out with getting the item from Italian Vinted? Just buy & ship deal. I'd really appreciate it.

 

[dwilson]

Is there a rule of thumb for translating the measurements of a well fitting long sleeved shirt to a leather jacket?

 

[Monitor]

Is there a rule of thumb for translating the measurements of a well fitting long sleeved shirt to a leather jacket?

No & I wouldn't rely on one giving you any sort of accurate measurement for the other.

 

[navetsea]

Is there a rule of thumb for translating the measurements of a well fitting long sleeved shirt to a leather jacket?

use blazer instead, maybe you can use overshirt, something with closer thickness to leather jacket and its lining, and should have zero stretch (knit hoodies or something with elastene is bad reference for leather jacket imo).

 

[Jin431]

Probably a super easy question but I'm looking for recommendations on jackets to keep my eye out for to be my next. Effectively I have the following criteria:

* Collared
* Non-zip hand pockets
* Single piece back or darted or action (basically just not 2 piece)
* Button cuffs
* Japanese made
* Black

The two that seem to fit the criteria almost perfectly are the Joe McCoy Nelson and the Rainbow Country Herc repro. Others that are similar are Freewheeler's Bodie but I have concerns about the overall fit on that one. Caboose seems perfect but I think that is defunct for the time being. If given even more wants I'd also like a modern zipper but that seems nearly impossible with much of my previous criteria. I'd also like one that has wider shoulders compared to the width but most in this cut seem ~46-47cm shoulders with ~52cm width.

That's a pretty narrow selection, the RMC Nelson looks great and tick all the boxes maybe apart from the hardware. You can get the collared/non zip hand pocket/1 piece back/button cuff/black leather/riri m8 main zip/widened shoulder in a jacket although not the Japan made part if you go Thedi.

 

[Marc mndt]

Guess what I'm cooking? Hint: it has something to do with my next FL project

 

[handymike]

Zippers? Oh, wait...BEEF! Because you’ve decided to skin your own animals and tan your own hides for the ultimate TFL build.

 

[Marc mndt]

Zippers?

Close...

 

[Marc mndt]

Zippers? Oh, wait...BEEF! Because you’ve decided to skin your own animals and tan your own hides for the ultimate TFL build.

Thanks to @Yamahana i was able to get two sets of vintage buttons. Unfortunately, they didn't match FL's brown pony Shinki. But since they're made of tagua nut (also know as vegetable ivory) they're easy to dye, so I bought some fibre reactive dye and let them cook for an hour. They came out perfectly.

 

[Canuck Panda]

custom buttons... you are taking the game up another level!