Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[Marc mndt]

Any idea where to buy good thick canvas for a jacket?

Thedi uses vintage military tent cloth. You could check out army surplus stores?

 

[Riu]

Thedi uses vintage military tent cloth. You could check out army surplus stores?

Oh great, thank you for the tip, I'll look into that. I found some online just don't know how good they are:

https://www.minerva.com/mp/1232452/...hed-cotton-canvas-fabric-pine&variant=1232432

Or I could even buy these and just get the material I need:

https://thetarpaulins.co.uk/product...-green-21oz-waterproof?variant=39414732128406

 

[navetsea]

you can also visit fabric supplier who specialized for curtain, some curtain material are hard wearing and they are sold wider/ taller than garment fabrics, most of the time they are also hanged so you can see the weight and drape, usually these place is also selling material for furniture, which is also hard wearing.

however the smoothness against skin & breathability are factors you need to guess yourself since it is not the focus of these materials in their original purpose, but some are really hard wearing UV/ weather resistant, etc.

I bought the fabrics for my bedsheet, pillowcase, and bedcover, from curtain fabrics supplier.

 

[Riu]

you can also visit fabric supplier who specialized for curtain, some curtain material are hard wearing and they are sold wider/ taller than garment fabrics, most of the time they are also hanged so you can see the weight and drape, usually these place is also selling material for furniture, which is also hard wearing.

however the smoothness against skin & breathability are factors you need to guess yourself since it is not the focus of these materials in their original purpose, but some are really hard wearing UV/ weather resistant, etc.

I bought the fabrics for my bedsheet, pillowcase, and bedcover, from curtain fabrics supplier.

Thank you for your advice, I'll see what I can find around me. They should be opening next month normally so I'll do some research in the meantime. I am looking for a thick weather-resistant material to combine it with leather, I find that very interesting.

 

[Marc mndt]

Question: what would the actual ptp be?

Seller says it's 52 cm (20.5 inch).

Not the best way to take measurements with the jacket unzipped.

 

[Kubatu]

Is there a timeline difference between the pink Californian sunrise label and the green Californian label?

 

[MrProper]

As hot as it came out of the tap. I'm guessing 60 Celsius

maybe a question for the physicists and leather experts ... why is there a difference whether the water is cold or warm? I always thought that warmth is only relevant when drying, if something should change on the leather (e.g. shrink)?

 

[Marc mndt]

maybe a question for the physicists and leather experts ... why is there a difference whether the water is cold or warm? I always thought that warmth is only relevant when drying, if something should change on the leather (e.g. shrink)?

In order to reshape it, you need to soften the leather first, make it more pliable. Which is easier done with warm water.

I'm sure a collar can be reshaped using cold water as well.

 

[Carlos840]

maybe a question for the physicists and leather experts ... why is there a difference whether the water is cold or warm? I always thought that warmth is only relevant when drying, if something should change on the leather (e.g. shrink)?

Could it just be that warmth softens oils and waxes that are within the leather?
A bit like doing the washing up with cold water vs warm water...

 

[AeroFan_07]

Question: what would the actual ptp be?

Seller says it's 52 cm (20.5 inch).

Not the best way to take measurements with the jacket unzipped.

View attachment 333410 View attachment 333411

Here we have Example #1 of how Not to measure Pit to PIt.

• The ruler is several CM extended past the "Pit end" on the "0" end
• The jacket is not fully zipped and clearly extended out
• They are using a flat, non-flexible measuring device

 

[Pandemic]

I’m in the early stages of talking around some three button car coat ideas with Damon at JL and have a few questions:

What are some good vintage models I could look at for inspiration? I know it’s a fairly old design, but I’m struggling to find early to mid century examples. I do like the Aero Rockefeller.

What sort of back is traditional on a car coat? I really like the simple front of @TheDonEffect ’s recent JL, but I think I want a very different back.

Most examples i see are fairly boxy and don’t look so good around the waist when unbuttoned. How do you think a more fitted body would look?

 

[handymike]

maybe a question for the physicists and leather experts ... why is there a difference whether the water is cold or warm? I always thought that warmth is only relevant when drying, if something should change on the leather (e.g. shrink)?

Avoid the HOT water on goat! It will harden the leather. This can also happen on some older horsehides.

 

[handymike]

Car coats were intended to be worn over suits and such, so they do tend to be rather boxy. Like Aero’s Veste de Rallye:
https://jumpthegun.co.uk/product/aero-leathers-veste-de-rallye/

In the 40s There was a middle ground jacket referred to as a surcoat that was in the middle between hip-length and 29” long coat. They were around 27” long and a bit trimmer. @Ton312’s windward is a good example. I also have a Sears version. Like a long half-belt. They look great fitted. Some European coats were cut slimmer than the American ones, but after WW2 they got “fuller” as well. Some current makers (Himel/Freewheelers) make a slimmer button coat (Canuck/ Brakeman) and they look really nice

 

[Marc mndt]

Here we have Example #1 of how Not to measure Pit to PIt.

• The ruler is several CM extended past the "Pit end" on the "0" end
• The jacket is not fully zipped and clearly extended out
• They are using a flat, non-flexible measuring device

I'll soon find out the actual ptp, I decided to take a gamble and buy the jacket. I won't find a second one in Europe. Hopefully it'll be close to 23"

 

[tmitchell59]

Is there a timeline difference between the pink Californian sunrise label and the green Californian label?

In a word, No. I have jackets, dated by their zipper, from the late 30s that have green and pink mountains. I have a 50s jacket with the pink mountains.

Original zippers will best identify the age of the jacket.

I do not know why they used the different colors. The various wording they used is interesting. "Washable Goatskin", "Chrome tanned Cowhide", etc

 

[Cornelius]

I’m in the early stages of talking around some three button car coat ideas with Damon at JL and have a few questions:

What are some good vintage models I could look at for inspiration? I know it’s a fairly old design, but I’m struggling to find early to mid century examples. I do like the Aero Rockefeller.

What sort of back is traditional on a car coat? I really like the simple front of @TheDonEffect ’s recent JL, but I think I want a very different back.

Most examples i see are fairly boxy and don’t look so good around the waist when unbuttoned. How do you think a more fitted body would look?

This is not technically a "car coat" but for me it fills a similar role, and meets your requirements as to being more fitted.

Years ago I came across a heavy wool overcoat, 3/4 length, at an Army surplus store in Chicago. Fit was perfect, but it was somehow still loose enough to comfortably fit over heavy winter layers or even a light jacket yet still look & feel tailored. Remarkably good design. Bought it for a song considering the quality, fit, & deadstock-new condition.

To this day it is - hands down - the coat my girlfriend loves on me the most. She calls it green, I call it grey ("Feldgrau," I suppose). The rear pockets are enormously useful for stashing hat, gloves, scarf in the winter.

A long time ago I looked up the 3 crown buttons & realized the coat is Swedish army surplus - you don't come across much of that in the midwestern US. Mine is the longer coat with no chest pockets, not the shorter uniform jacket (over which I imagine this coat was designed to fit?). One is for sale here.

Perhaps consider getting one in your size to try on, and to then give to JL for a pattern study? Regardless, I'll follow your project with great curiosity.

 

[Pandemic]

^
Thanks.

What I am thinking of is a bit shorter. A cross between the JL stock coat, Aero’s Rockefeller, the front of DonEffect’s jacket and the back of Marc’s FL Idaho:

 

[drmaxtejeda]

I first visited Optimo looking for the green hat that appears in the duel in the final episodes of "Justified". Someone online said it was an Optimo, and I didn't know any better. Now I am pretty sure it is a Nick
Fouquet.
What do you think?
And what is that golden clip in the brim? Just an adornment?
wa

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

I first visited Optimo looking for the green hat that appears in the duel in the final episodes of "Justified". Someone online said it was an Optimo, and I didn't know any better. Now I am pretty sure it is a Nick
Fouquet.
What do you think?
And what is that golden clip in the brim? Just an adornment?
wa View attachment 335132 View attachment 335133 View attachment 335134

Fouquet trademark is a match stick in the ribbon. I think I see something sticking out there. Hard to tell photos are not clear.

 

[Marc mndt]

@ton312 is this what you used on the Windward?

The Hercules looks a bit thirsty.