Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[AeroFan_07]

Just to add in here, I also had a Branded Garmets cross zip a while back and it seemed of quite good, heavy, quality. IT was not a "soft" a hand as say a Fox Creek Leather. The sleeves were much too short for me, which is common, so I moved it on at a break-even level.

To me, (from an "investment" perspective) these are a "buy & hold" item. They have the quality, but the name recoignition is not there at least at this time. This is a funny statement for me to make, as I have never viewed this hobby as an investment. I have lost quite a bit of $$$ on many jackets, a few $ on some, and made a small amount on a few others.

 

[Bahabp100]

mine is size 42. I've seen some cool size 50 stuff though lately. Let me double check my ebay history. I'll send you links if I find anything. Can't recall if it was a branded though.

Do you know if they run small?

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Do you know if they run small?

i just tagged you in finds and deals. There's a size 50 horsehide vintage jacket. Looks nice.

The branded stuff runs true to size to slightly smaller, at least the one I got. Tagged a 42 and is a little roomy on the torso and waist, but chest is good. I pretty much have the laces pulled in all the way. I'm usually a 40 in most things.

 

[Scooterz]

Ok I have been lurking and checking out the jackets. I have been looking at the 5* thread and at their jackets. I have a question about sizing. It seems like the jackets in my chest size 47-48 inches have really long sleeves like 27.2 to 27.6 inches or so. I usually wear an XL in US sizes or a 46 or 48 in a suit. My weight tends to fluctuate a bit. I typically can buy a suit off the rack without having to alter the jacket. I measure my arm to be about 26 inches point of shoulder to wrist, over 27 inches would be almost halfway down my hand. I am 6 ft tall and don't think of my arms as short at all. I am wondering how you guys figure sleeve length when ordering a jacket? Is there a difference in ordering a sleeve length with knit cuffs like an A-2 verses a regular leather cuff. Does there need to be a bit extra in the sleeve to allow for bending and movement? Last year I ordered an Indy style jacket (by Real Leather) and it was not bad except the sleeves were way long, so I sent it back. I measured some of my existing jackets and the sleeves measure from 24.5" to 26" in the ones that fit well. I tend to get jackets a little loose and not super fitted, I like jackets to drape a bit but not be too big. Any hints on how to size a jacket will be appreciated.

 

[Jin431]

Ok I have been lurking and checking out the jackets. I have been looking at the 5* thread and at their jackets. I have a question about sizing. It seems like the jackets in my chest size 47-48 inches have really long sleeves like 27.2 to 27.6 inches or so. I usually wear an XL in US sizes or a 46 or 48 in a suit. My weight tends to fluctuate a bit. I typically can buy a suit off the rack without having to alter the jacket. I measure my arm to be about 26 inches point of shoulder to wrist, over 27 inches would be almost halfway down my hand. I am 6 ft tall and don't think of my arms as short at all. I am wondering how you guys figure sleeve length when ordering a jacket? Is there a difference in ordering a sleeve length with knit cuffs like an A-2 verses a regular leather cuff. Does there need to be a bit extra in the sleeve to allow for bending and movement? Last year I ordered an Indy style jacket (by Real Leather) and it was not bad except the sleeves were way long, so I sent it back. I measured some of my existing jackets and the sleeves measure from 24.5" to 26" in the ones that fit well. I tend to get jackets a little loose and not super fitted, I like jackets to drape a bit but not be too big. Any hints on how to size a jacket will be appreciated.

The easiest way is to measure an already great fitting jacket that you have. Chest, shoulders, waist, bottom sweep, back length, sleeve length, armhole circumference, bicep/elbow/wrist, neckhole. Then adjust those measurement depending on the thickness of the leather you will want to use.

I would only add extra 0.5" to the sleeves if I know the leather will crease/fold after you break it in (i.e. Horween cxl/badalassi) but if it will not the. I would not add extra (i.e. goatskin/shinki).

For the sleeve measurement some makers either measure from the shoulder seam straight down to the end of the sleeves; or from the shoulder seam following the curve to the end of the sleeve. so you would want to indicate how you measured your own jacket or ask how the maker measure their sleeves in house.

Hope that helps a little

 

[Nathan Ford]

Hello everyone, a newbie here, and frankly, I never own a leather jacket. On the journey to find my first leather jacket, I saw TFH leather jacket, which has very similar measurements with my well-fitted field jacket but smaller hem. Should I go with it? If yes then the classic collar or the mandarin, which will fit my oblong face better? If no, then what is your opinion? I'm 173 cm (5'8) tall, the weight should be around 64 kg (141 lbs). Btw, here are measurements from my good fit jacket: 46 cm shoulder, 100 cm chest, 59 cm sleeves. Any help will be appreciated!

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Ok I have been lurking and checking out the jackets. I have been looking at the 5* thread and at their jackets. I have a question about sizing. It seems like the jackets in my chest size 47-48 inches have really long sleeves like 27.2 to 27.6 inches or so. I usually wear an XL in US sizes or a 46 or 48 in a suit. My weight tends to fluctuate a bit. I typically can buy a suit off the rack without having to alter the jacket. I measure my arm to be about 26 inches point of shoulder to wrist, over 27 inches would be almost halfway down my hand. I am 6 ft tall and don't think of my arms as short at all. I am wondering how you guys figure sleeve length when ordering a jacket? Is there a difference in ordering a sleeve length with knit cuffs like an A-2 verses a regular leather cuff. Does there need to be a bit extra in the sleeve to allow for bending and movement? Last year I ordered an Indy style jacket (by Real Leather) and it was not bad except the sleeves were way long, so I sent it back. I measured some of my existing jackets and the sleeves measure from 24.5" to 26" in the ones that fit well. I tend to get jackets a little loose and not super fitted, I like jackets to drape a bit but not be too big. Any hints on how to size a jacket will be appreciated.

do what Jin said. Find a good jacket that fits and use those as base line measurements

26 sleeve should be about right generally speaking. I'm 6'0 also. Some variables like shoulder width will affect sleeve length. If you going with knit, I'd go 27 to allow the knit to fold under somewhat.

Definitely dont go off the shelf with 5 Star unless you also want a tent.

Btw, I'll let you know about the Akubras by this weekend

 

[Jin431]

do what Jin said. Find a good jacket that fits and use those as base line measurements

26 sleeve should be about right generally speaking. I'm 6'0 also. Some variables like shoulder width will affect sleeve length. If you going with knit, I'd go 27 to allow the knit to fold under somewhat.

Definitely dont go off the shelf with 5 Star unless you also want a tent.

Btw, I'll let you know about the Akubras by this weekend

Yes, thanks for mentioning shoulder width will affect the fit of the sleeves.

Agreed, the jackets with sleeve knits has a better look if it folds under. Seank a1 post confirmed that for me.

Hello everyone, a newbie here, and frankly, I never own a leather jacket. On the journey to find my first leather jacket, I saw TFH leather jacket, which has very similar measurements with my well-fitted field jacket but smaller hem. Should I go with it? If yes then the classic collar or the mandarin, which will fit my oblong face better? If no, then what is your opinion? I'm 173 cm (5'8) tall, the weight should be around 64 kg (141 lbs). Btw, here are measurements from my good fit jacket: 46 cm shoulder, 100 cm chest, 59 cm sleeves. Any help will be appreciated!

I know it's ask a question and get an answer thread but it might help if you clarify some details such as: What is a TFH jacket? What kind of leather is it made of?
What is the size difference of the hem between your field jacket and the jacket that you want to buy?
Are you planning to wear the leather jacket to layer up or just a tshirt under and worn unzipped?

Collar construction will be a matter of preference, it might help you decide if you check your closet and visualize if they will look better with what style. I own both and prefer wearing a classic shaped collar.

Also don't forget to take into account the waist measurements so you can determine if it's a trim or relaxed fit. If you like to have a trim fitting jacket add 2-3 inches to your actual body measurements (i.e. 38 chest get a jacket with 20-21" pit to pit), if it's for cold weather add more to account for layering.

 

[handymike]

I think he is referring to The Flat Head. A few members have this jacket (both the shirt collar style and the mandarin collar), and hopefully they can relay their experiences.

 

[Kubatu]

What's the dating difference in the gold-on-black Branded Garments label versus the more recent black-on-black Branded label?

 

[Nathan Ford]

What is a TFH jacket? What kind of leather is it made of?
What is the size difference of the hem between your field jacket and the jacket that you want to buy?
Are you planning to wear the leather jacket to layer up or just a tshirt under and worn unzipped?

Sorry for my laziness, TFH stand for The Fat Head. When it comes to the leather, I prefer their horsehide (HH) to deerskin.
My field jacket has 50 cm hem width (waist) and 71 cm vertical length while the FH jacket size 38 waist will be ~47 at 71 cm vertical length ( seller's info).
About layering, I plan to wear a shirt and a Henley tee under

Also don't forget to take into account the waist measurements so you can determine if it's a trim or relaxed fit. If you like to have a trim fitting jacket add 2-3 inches to your actual body measurements (i.e. 38 chest get a jacket with 20-21" pit to pit), if it's for cold weather add more to account for layering.

Thanks you so much for the tips!

 

[AeroFan_07]

^^ If you have never had a leather jacket prior, "The Flat Head" products are an exceptionally expensive way to get started. I would tend to reccommend finding something used, cheaper to start with and see if you like wearing it, and get the size naied down. Then spring for an expensive one.

 

[Jin431]

Sorry for my laziness, TFH stand for The Fat Head. When it comes to the leather, I prefer their horsehide (HH) to deerskin.
My field jacket has 50 cm hem width (waist) and 71 cm vertical length while the FH jacket size 38 waist will be ~47 at 71 cm vertical length ( seller's info).
About layering, I plan to wear a shirt and a Henley tee under

Thanks you so much for the tips!

hope it helps. That’s why we’re here to enable you to buy more jackets than you need lol

Its a hem difference of about 1” and change? That’s quite a lot smaller, might be hard to close that up if you zip up/button up. Will that be a car coat? Seems rather long

 

[Nathan Ford]

^^ If you have never had a leather jacket prior, "The Flat Head" products are an exceptionally expensive way to get started. I would tend to reccommend finding something used, cheaper to start with and see if you like wearing it, and get the size naied down. Then spring for an expensive one.

I see. What if I try on some other jackets, post pictures here, then you guys help me to make a decision, is that possible? I tend to buy an "buy it for life" jacket. It would be great if I can ignore the trial stage, save some bucks.
Btw, do you think $900 for this one is the steal, ?

 

[Nathan Ford]

Its a hem difference of about 1” and change? That’s quite a lot smaller, might be hard to close that up if you zip up/button up. Will that be a car coat? Seems rather long

sorry, I made a typing error. That leather jacket only has 61 cm vertical length. I assumed it will just right to cover my belt. It isn't a car coat.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I see. What if I try on some other jackets, post pictures here, then you guys help me to make a decision, is that possible? I tend to buy an "buy it for life" jacket. It would be great if I can ignore the trial stage, save some bucks.
Btw, do you think $900 for this one is the steal, ?

It took me about 10 years and many, many jackets to get sizing right. There was no internet back then so I was flying blind and I stupidly thought labeled sizes meant something. Nevertheless, I don't think a first jacket is ever right - it takes a few to work out, not just sizing, but preferences for back length and chest width. You will defiantly get there faster here but remember how a jacket looks in photos may not hep you. My jacket with the best looking fit in photos was almost impossible to breathe in.

 

[Marc mndt]

I see. What if I try on some other jackets, post pictures here, then you guys help me to make a decision, is that possible? I tend to buy an "buy it for life" jacket. It would be great if I can ignore the trial stage, save some bucks.

Unfortunately, that's not how it works. Measurements are just part of the story. Whether a jacket will be comfortable or not hugely depends on the pattern. For instance, I have a jacket with a 21.5 inch ptp which is very comfortable to wear, while another one with a 22.5 ptp feels restrictive. The characteristics of the leather are also a factor. Thin and supple goatsuede is much more forgiving than heavy CXFQ horsehide.

Also, if you don't have a frame of reference, how can you tell whether it's a good fit or not. I think that's something one has to learn through trial and error. When I bought my first jacket I thought it was a great fit. In hindsight it wasn't a good fit at all. Back then I simply didn't know what constitutes a good fit.

Edit : I'm not saying it's impossible to buy a first jacket and be happy with it. I'm just trying to explain why a lot of us didn't stop after that first 'for life' jacket

 

[Monitor]

I have always been of the opinion that we're digging too deep on the fit issue of OTR jackets and that in about 89% of cases, the size number is the best way to determine your size - More so than following the actual measurements 97% of people can't get right when measuring their "good fitting" jacket, let alone themselves.

I had 21" shoulders until I realized I simply don't & that I can wear a jacket with 17" shoulders and that the shoulder width is actually a massive scam.

What I'm trying to say is, I'm fairly certain that @Nathan Ford will be very, very happy with a Flat Head in his size. Of course, what size that is has to be determined but that shouldn't be a problem, provided the store has any half-decent return policy.

Nathan, when dealing with off-the-rack jackets, do your self a favor and ignore the centimetres & measurements, especially when it comes to your first big purchase and buy the jacket in a size the store recommends you to buy. See if it works and if it does, keep it. I cannot stress that enough.
Knowing the lengths & widths won't do you no good as you can't really do anything about it and it will only mislead you from purchasing a jacket in a size you should be wearing.

The model dude in the Flat Head photos doesn't wear a custom piece. He just got the size right and it looks great!

 

[Marc mndt]

I have always been of the opinion that we're digging too deep on the fit issue of OTR jackets and that in about 89% of cases, the size number is the best way to determine your size - More so than following the actual measurements 97% of people can't get right when measuring their "good fitting" jacket, let alone themselves.

I'm not sure I agree with you. I wear a size 42 from western makers. I don't fit a size 42 from most Asian makers (chest too tight, armholes too tight). I don't know about TFH's sizing, but knowing the actual measurements will certainly be helpful in deciding whether I'd need a 42 or a 44.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I have always been of the opinion that we're digging too deep on the fit issue of OTR jackets and that in about 89% of cases, the size number is the best way to determine your size - More so than following the actual measurements 97% of people can't get right when measuring their "good fitting" jacket, let alone themselves.

I had 21" shoulders until I realized I simply don't & that I can wear a jacket with 17" shoulders and that the shoulder width is actually a massive scam.

What I'm trying to say is, I'm fairly certain that @Nathan Ford will be very, very happy with a Flat Head in his size. Of course, what size that is has to be determined but that shouldn't be a problem, provided the store has any half-decent return policy.

Nathan, when dealing with off-the-rack jackets, do your self a favor and ignore the centimetres & measurements, especially when it comes to your first big purchase and buy the jacket in a size the store recommends you to buy. See if it works and if it does, keep it. I cannot stress that enough.
Knowing the lengths & widths won't do you no good as you can't really do anything about it and it will only mislead you from purchasing a jacket in a size you should be wearing.

The model dude in the Flat Head photos doesn't wear a custom piece. He just got the size right and it looks great!

That's a traditional and interesting way of looking at it. It may well work too. As long as you can return it if it sucks.

I guess it is true that I can wear 19 to 21 inch shoulders; 22 to 24 inch chest, 25 to 27 inch sleeves - all depending on the cut and pattern. What I ended up doing is setting my base measurements - those which have pleased me most after wearing a few dozen jackets.