Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[JMax]

Thanks guys. This is the one I was looking at, from Etsy seller OverAttireVintage from California.
I was looking for an early leathertog type jacket without the side gussets.

I am guessing Aldencrest is a retail shop in Alden NY. To me that made the most sense to have a luxury men's clothing shop in NY called Alden's Crest aka Aldencrest, back about 100 years ago. The lining on this jacket looks as if were premium product at the time. The only things that raised red flags were the stitching and shoulder construction. But if this was made late 30s/early 40s then it would make sense since the war would have had priority over all resources available.

I think I will do this. Gotta start somewhere.

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Nice jacket. Kurland-Star Sportswear. Lighter-weight, thinner hide. Depends on what you want for the first jacket. Definitely a good start. Easy to wear, different, beautiful.

If you dig the D pocket- Sportclad or Herc Cali or not) will make ya happy too. Obviously Buco, All-State, Leathertogs are incredible D pockets, just trying to keep your jump into vintage less costly with equal, if not better, quality.

Guidemaster, Monarch, California Sportswear…lots of top tier vintage makers that stand above most other makers. Good luck. Hard to escape the lure of the OG jackets once you really jump in.

 

[tmitchell59]

Thanks guys. This is the one I was looking at, from Etsy seller OverAttireVintage from California.
I was looking for an early leathertog type jacket without the side gussets.

I am guessing Aldencrest is a retail shop in Alden NY. To me that made the most sense to have a luxury men's clothing shop in NY called Alden's Crest aka Aldencrest, back about 100 years ago. The lining on this jacket looks as if were premium product at the time. The only things that raised red flags were the stitching and shoulder construction. But if this was made late 30s/early 40s then it would make sense since the war would have had priority over all resources available.

I think I will do this. Gotta start somewhere.

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Alden was a catalog, but I know little about it. Look up Alden catalog. I have assumed that this was the source for Aldencrest jackets. Now seeing this glove tanned and other horsehide tag I'm seeing Star Sportswear/Kurland as the maker. I've seen this glove tanned tag on other Kurland jackets. The glove tanned jacket looks to be from the early 60s. This "glove tanned" leather was very popular during the 60s. A very soft, comfortable leather, much different to the horsehides and steerhides of the 1950s.

 

[torfjord]

oooo does Thedi have a goatskin in more a chocolate-brown? Thinking of a warmer-weather work jacket here, lined in cotton-drill.

I don’t know if this is the colour you are looking for but this is a brown goat leather from Thedi: https://thedi-leathers.com/product/mtc-b1279125/

Do you sometimes get pull up goat? A E.g. an oiled/waxed hide without the plastic coating you see on goat leather from companies like Aero.

That’s a good question. I don’t think I’ve seen a goat pull-up leather actually.
Not sure why but that seems to be rare.
The thedi goat is dyed all through, no plasticy top coat.

 

[Rich22]

That’s a good question. I don’t think I’ve seen a goat pull-up leather actually.
Not sure why but that seems to be rare.
The thedi goat is dyed all through, no plasticy top coat.

In principal I really like the characteristics of goat, just not the fact it usually seems to end up with a plastic top coat, even when dyed through. The Thedi goat sounds like a winner.

 

[Marc mndt]

If you dig the D pocket- Sportclad or Herc Cali or not) will make ya happy too. Obviously Buco, All-State, Leathertogs are incredible D pockets, just trying to keep your jump into vintage less costly with equal, if not better, quality.

Last time I saw a Leathertogs listing
$$$$$

 

[JMax]

Last time I saw a Leathertogs listing
$$$$$

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There you go. Wish I made enough loot to win actions like that.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Last time I saw a Leathertogs listing
$$$$$

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There you go. Wish I made enough loot to win actions like that.

I saw a Peters jacket asking for more than that in Japan. This is why I am eager to find one pre-war jacket that doesn't bear the Leathertog or Peters label, and hoping that since they are more or less the same fits given the same time period. And most importantly cost about 25 times less. One can dream...

Alden was a catalog, but I know little about it. Look up Alden catalog. I have assumed that this was the source for Aldencrest jackets. Now seeing this glove tanned and other horsehide tag I'm seeing Star Sportswear/Kurland as the maker. I've seen this glove tanned tag on other Kurland jackets. The glove tanned jacket looks to be from the early 60s. This "glove tanned" leather was very popular during the 60s. A very soft, comfortable leather, much different to the horsehides and steerhides of the 1950s.

Aldens Department store or Aldens Catalogue. Nice one. Before my time. This was before the K-Mart era in the 60s. And I am a Wal-Mart era guy. The Mid-West is sure full of treasure and surprises.

 

[Will Zach]

Looks identical to @Will Zach Kurland

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/kurland.105044/

Yep. The one I got from @JMax. I like it a lot, very lightweight, tons of character.

 

[handymike]

This is the Peters jacket you (really meaning I) really want!

https://peterstailormade.com/en/archives/41

 

[Canuck Panda]

This is the Peters jacket you (really meaning I) really want!

https://peterstailormade.com/en/archives/41

I already follow him on Instagram. Haha. There’s a real nice natural tan one recently. The problem is no open prices. And that scares me.

 

[Mrfrown]

This is the Peters jacket you (really meaning I) really want!

https://peterstailormade.com/en/archives/41

First I've seen these, looks fantastic

Gotta love that lining too

 

[Marc mndt]

First I've seen these, looks fantastic

Gotta love that lining too

Personally, I'm not a fan of the low stitch count. The massively thick needle they used doesn't help either. Would be perfect for sofa making. For fancy jackets, not so much.

 

[Mrfrown]

Personally, I'm not a fan of the low stitch count. The massively thick needle they used doesn't help either. Would be perfect for sofa making. For fancy jackets, not so much.

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That last picture does make it really stand out. I'm kind of on the fence about it.

Is this purely an aesthetic concern or are there other impacts low stitch / large needle would have on functionality etc?

 

[Rich22]

Personally, I'm not a fan of the low stitch count. The massively thick needle they used doesn't help either. Would be perfect for sofa making. For fancy jackets, not so much.

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What went wrong here?

 

[jglf]

What went wrong here?
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Too many layers of thick unskived leather?

 

[Canuck Panda]

You guys know that stitch count is just a tension setting on the sewing machine right? This is my amateur home Singer, tension / stitch spacing set at level 4, maximum is 7. FWIW, none of my motorcycle jackets have super high stitch count. And all of them have similar stitching to the Peters.

The Peters (Japan) seems to really have done his homework on the original Peters brand on Mission Street. I would almost want to learn Japanese just to talk to the guy and find out what he's got on the original Peters, and maybe get a jacket from him if the price doesn't ask for my kidneys. Nothing wrong with his work from the photos.

 

[Marc mndt]

The Peters (Japan) seems to really have done his homework on the original Peters brand on Mission Street. I would almost want to learn Japanese just to talk to the guy and find out what he's got on the original Peters, and maybe get a jacket from him if the price doesn't ask for my kidneys. Nothing wrong with his work from the photos.

I don't think the originals have low stitch count like that.

There's nothing wrong with low stitch count. But if the thread is much thinner than the needle holes, water/rain will easily penetrate into the jacket.

 

[tmitchell59]

Remember the Peters at auction? Here is a thread.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/vintage-outerwear-threads-of-the-past.102621/

 

[coldaffinity]

Does schott's 613 perfecto fit true to size? Their size guide reccomends a 42 even though I'm just a little over 39“ around the chest.

I was looking at a second hand 38 since I'm on the thinner side and schotts don't seem to tapper much, should I look for a 40 instead?

 

[Marc mndt]

Does schott's 613 perfecto fit true to size? Their size guide reccomends a 42 even though I'm just a little over 39“ around the chest.

I was looking at a second hand 38 since I'm on the thinner side and schotts don't seem to tapper much, should I look for a 40 instead?

I have a 43 inch chest, this is what 613 size 42 looks like on me. True to size imo.

I'd try a 40 if I were you.