Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[Marc mndt]

Question:
Most Outerwear Jackets (Non Leather) with Pocket Zips close Downwards. Aero's and Field Leathers zip upwards..
Any advantage/disadvantages of either/or and which ones would you choose for your Leathers?

It's not just FL and Aero. Is this what you mean?

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Question:
Most Outerwear Jackets (Non Leather) with Pocket Zips close Downwards. Aero's and Field Leathers zip upwards..
Any advantage/disadvantages of either/or and which ones would you choose for your Leathers?

The ones that close upwards are better if they open up slightly since the gap will be open at the top, therefore nothing small will fall out the bottom (i.e. if it were vice versa)

 

[FL2021]

That what I was trying to figure out...
Schott's seam to close bottom, others brands close top, and when you're designing your jackets, how do you decide? So that's fair enough, less chance of items falling out when closing at top. Then why would almost all outerwear close bottom..?
Is it ease of ingress of hands, or less chance of the zipper it opening, leverage on the zipper?

 

[Jin431]

it's all the same and it's scratchy either way but probably a more natural motion to open the zipper from top to bottom and close as well. I actually requested my next Aero to have the hand warmers zipper close pointing toward the hem just to try it out and compare with my other jackets

 

[FL2021]

Thank you..
The reason I was asking, is that my Field Leathers order is up and coming, hopefully next month...I may just try the Hem closing as well...

 

[Jin431]

Thank you..
The reason I was asking, is that my Field Leathers order is up and coming, hopefully next month...I may just try the Hem closing as well...

Ahhh wow exciting times ahead! What leather and pattern are you going for? I'm sure it will turn out fantastically well. Keep in mind if you have the zips closing pointing down the hem then the dangling zipper pull will be close to level with the bottom hem so if you still prefer that direction go for a bell pull instead of a diamon/ball & chain pull

 

[Canuck Panda]

I think it’s also a design or look issue. Do you want your zipper pull dangling at the top? Or dangling down at the bottom. I have a habit of tucking the pull into the welt when I open them up. It’s a personal preference on where you want the pull I suppose.

 

[Jin431]

Do you need to go a size up for vintage Levi's sherpas jackets? Haven't owned a fleece lined trucker before so I'm not sure to go true to size with a 36 or with a 38.

 

[Kubatu]

I acquired a jacket recently that's a bit wrinkled. Nothing too severe like some of those jackets from bales, but I would like to make it look a bit neater before I list it on Ebay. Any ideas how to reduce the wrinkling? I've seen some suggestions to give it a wash and try to smooth it out while wet, which I may try tomorrow.

 

[handymike]

Me too- I’m interested in a jacket I saw that’s been baled, but the creases don’t appear to be hard edged. Is it salvageable? The seller says he has a very lenient return policy.

 

[Bfd70]

Mc jackets should close top so it’s easier to open the pocket one handed while riding allowing you to access your pretzels at snack-o-clock

 

[Bfd70]

What is a French seam? When is it preferred/Not appropriate.

 

[Prax]

I have a question that I am kind of blown away doesn't seem to have an answer. Putting aesthetics aside, and assuming a perfect fit, is a biswing back more comfortable than a sunset back. I am curious about the functional comfort gain of a sunset back on (https://www.schottnyc.com/products/horween-steerhide-delivery-jacket.htm#tab-reviews) vs https://www.schottnyc.com/products/storm.htm. Can anyone comment on that in general; also does Schott use an elastic band in their biswing like aero? Any experience shared would be appreciated!

 

[Marc mndt]

I have a question that I am kind of blown away doesn't seem to have an answer. Putting aesthetics aside, and assuming a perfect fit, is a biswing back more comfortable than a sunset back. I am curious about the functional comfort gain of a sunset back on (https://www.schottnyc.com/products/horween-steerhide-delivery-jacket.htm#tab-reviews) vs https://www.schottnyc.com/products/storm.htm. Can anyone comment on that in general; also does Schott use an elastic band in their biswing like aero? Any experience shared would be appreciated!

The sunset back like on the Schott P663 doesn't do anything to allow for more movement / comfort. Back in the days the sunset back was a way to cut costs: using small pieces of scrap leather to construct the back was cheaper than using one large back panel. (Materials were expensive, labor was cheap).

Only if real functional gussets are used for the sunset back, comfort will increase.

Non-functional

VS functional

 

[Carlos840]

That what I was trying to figure out...
Schott's seam to close bottom, others brands close top, and when you're designing your jackets, how do you decide? So that's fair enough, less chance of items falling out when closing at top. Then why would almost all outerwear close bottom..?
Is it ease of ingress of hands, or less chance of the zipper it opening, leverage on the zipper?

Honestly, it's a meaningless difference.
I have both configurations, with locking zippers and non locking zippers and in use i don't find one better or worst than the other.
The only noticeable difference is if you have zippers that open upwards and have long zipper pulls they will sometimes get in the way as you try to stick somethign in the pocket, but its really not enough of a problem to be a big deal.
Design wise i kinda prefer to have the zippers closing upwards as i usually keep my pockets closed unless i need them open for a reason. IMO usually a jacket looks better with the pullers centered towards the chest rather than having the pullers close to the bottom hem when they are closed.

Chose the one you prefer looks wise, don't worry about function, they both work well.

 

[Prax]

The sunset back like on the Schott P663 doesn't do anything to allow for more movement / comfort. Back in the days the sunset back was a way to cut costs: using small pieces of scrap leather to construct the back was cheaper than using one large back panel. (Materials were expensive, labor was cheap).

Only if real functional gussets are used for the sunset back, comfort will increase.

Appreciate the response, that was exactly what I wanted to know. They advertise the sunset back as "features a distinct "Sunset" pattern on the back that helps with ease of movement" which made me ask the question... The glory of marketing at its finest.

 

[FL2021]

Hey Carlos,

Thank you...
Now get it...
Basically what you said is:

with the slanted upward closing Zippers, it emphasizes the V taper of the Torso...

At the bottom, will push the hips visually further outwards adding heft at the hips.
It Draws the Eye.... decision made...

Honestly, it's a meaningless difference.
I have both configurations, with locking zippers and non locking zippers and in use i don't find one better or worst than the other.
The only noticeable difference is if you have zippers that open upwards and have long zipper pulls they will sometimes get in the way as you try to stick somethign in the pocket, but its really not enough of a problem to be a big deal.
Design wise i kinda prefer to have the zippers closing upwards as i usually keep my pockets closed unless i need them open for a reason. IMO usually a jacket looks better with the pullers centered towards the chest rather than having the pullers close to the bottom hem when they are closed.

Chose the one you prefer looks wise, don't worry about function, they both work well.

 

[Marc mndt]

Appreciate the response, that was exactly what I wanted to know. They advertise the sunset back as "features a distinct "Sunset" pattern on the back that helps with ease of movement" which made me ask the question... The glory of marketing at its finest.

Even though the sunset back isn't functional, it's still a nice jacket. I owned one in cowhide.

 

[jszair]

Folks who workout, how would you size for custom jacket considering the bulking/cutting and weight fluctuations?

 

[Prax]

Folks who workout, how would you size for custom jacket considering the bulking/cutting and weight fluctuations?

I'm pretty new here but I do workout 6 days a week following Arnold's blueprint to mass / cut in 2 month cycles for the most part. In general, I size for comfort in my shoulder/chest and decide if I will keep a garment based on how well it fits my arms and waist AFTER accounting for shoulder/chest comfort. This provides a fit that I am happy with. I've never had to replace things which are too tight because they were already casually loose. Filson outerwear for example could fit nicely in a medium for me. But that wouldn't allow layering for much more than a t-shirt, nor would it fit as I bulk. So I go with large and it handles fluctuations much more reasonably. Hope that helps!