Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[jas1598]

Thanks for the clear and concise comparison, Mr. Proper. So you'd say the Premier Highwayman is the sweet spot? I want something that doesn't look boxy, but not too fitted either where it's uncomfortable. I want to be able to wear a light sweater underneath and not feel tight.

Thanks!

Sheene = café racer = 50s = regular
Seven = board racer = ? years = super slim
Premier highwayman = 30s = slim fit

For is the PHWM bes

Sheene = café racer = 50s = regular
Seven = board racer = ? years = super slim
Premier highwayman = 30s = slim fit

For is the PHWM best.

 

[CombatWombat]

A silly question but how long in the torso should a Cal Leathers/CHP jacket go to?
I've got one and it sits ALOT higher on my back than my cafe racer and Perfecto/Brando do......but the front pushes on the tops of my thighs while sitting down?
I know that Cal Leathers were all "made to order" for most of their existence but I have not a clue why anyone would need a motorcycle jacket that's longer in the front and VERY short on the back

 

[attack_decay]

A silly question but how long in the torso should a Cal Leathers/CHP jacket go to?
I've got one and it sits ALOT higher on my back than my cafe racer and Perfecto/Brando do......but the front pushes on the tops of my thighs while sitting down?
I know that Cal Leathers were all "made to order" for most of their existence but I have not a clue why anyone would need a motorcycle jacket that's longer in the front and VERY short on the back

I feel like they were meant to be short and be worn with high waisted pants. Torso would end around the belt line to facilitate wear while riding a motorcycle. The CHP jackets were also short so that they wouldn't get in the way of the officer's gun belt.

 

[MrProper]

Thanks for the clear and concise comparison, Mr. Proper. So you'd say the Premier Highwayman is the sweet spot? I want something that doesn't look boxy, but not too fitted either where it's uncomfortable. I want to be able to wear a light sweater underneath and not feel tight.

Thanks!

I'm probably biased, but yes, the PHWM is the best jacket for me. That's why I have two of them, whereas I no longer have a Café Racer or a Sheene.
But making a recommendation is often difficult because tastes and preferences are so different. What one person thinks is great is a no go for another.
But if the stature fits, it's certainly worth trying out the PHWM.

 

[geedee]

Thanks for the clear and concise comparison, Mr. Proper. So you'd say the Premier Highwayman is the sweet spot? I want something that doesn't look boxy, but not too fitted either where it's uncomfortable. I want to be able to wear a light sweater underneath and not feel tight.

Thanks!

You could also consider the Premier 1930 Half Belt

 

[ragtime_joe]

Need help dating this Sportclad.

 

[jeo]

Need help dating this Sportclad.
View attachment 534266



View attachment 534271 View attachment 534277

Looks late 40’s - early 50’s to me. I’ve seen that label in late 40’s jackets and throughout the 50’s. Pony skin is usually earlier.

You see quite a few of the Hercules jackets in the same style, most 50’s.

I’m sure @tmitchell59 can give a more accurate assessment.

What’s the lining material?

 

[ragtime_joe]

Looks late 40’s - early 50’s to me. I’ve seen that label in late 40’s jackets and throughout the 50’s. Pony skin is usually earlier.

You see quite a few of the Hercules jackets in the same style, most 50’s.

I’m sure @tmitchell59 can give a more accurate assessment.

What’s the lining material?

Thanks, I’m pretty sure the lining is rayon.

 

[mvilla]

How would you guys dye your zip tape? I saw on MASH that they recommend a common stationary pen... I heard some saying that I can just use a Sharpie... Well, I've started with a Sharpie and the result don't look too bad, but I can't say how it'll hold in long term... Any recommendations?

 

[Canuck Panda]

Sharpie will hold but it smells like sniffing glue. You only need to dye the visible part, 1/8 to 1/4" next to the teeth. The rest of the tape gets burried in the leather channel and stitched up and won't be visible. Is the zipper NOS from Photo? or you custom ordered a repro from Japan?

 

[Will Zach]

How would you guys dye your zip tape? I saw on MASH that they recommend a common stationary pen... I heard some saying that I can just use a Sharpie... Well, I've started with a Sharpie and the result don't look too bad, but I can't say how it'll hold in long term... Any recommendations?
View attachment 534312

Sharpie is a horrible idea. Poor quality dye, it will bleach and become pinkish with time. Better idea is an RIT Dye, and the best is a reactive Procyon dye. Some dyes may stain the brass, but brown RIT did not when I did it.

 

[tmitchell59]

Looks late 40’s - early 50’s to me. I’ve seen that label in late 40’s jackets and throughout the 50’s. Pony skin is usually earlier.

You see quite a few of the Hercules jackets in the same style, most 50’s.

I’m sure @tmitchell59 can give a more accurate assessment.

What’s the lining material?

I believe you are quite accurate. Notice the Conmar zipper copies a Talon from the early post war. That Sportclad label ends early 50s

 

[mvilla]

Sharpie will hold but it smells like sniffing glue. You only need to dye the visible part, 1/8 to 1/4" next to the teeth. The rest of the tape gets burried in the leather channel and stitched up and won't be visible. Is the zipper NOS from Photo? or you custom ordered a repro from Japan?

Haha yeah, it does have a smell, and mixes up with the old fabric smell of the zip itself. It is a NOS one, was used on MA1 jackets, I reckon.

Sharpie is a horrible idea. Poor quality dye, it will bleach and become pinkish with time. Better idea is an RIT Dye, and the best is a reactive Procyon dye. Some dyes may stain the brass, but brown RIT did not when I did it.

Cool, I'll give it a gander. Thanks!

 

[mvilla]

I've painted this top section with the Sharpie yesterday and too a better look today... I get some red accents with Sharpie dye... Perhaps I should try the fiber reactive dye, the problem is that I saw more than a few videos and reviews showing the final result as a grey colour instead of pure black...

 

[handymike]

What are you doing to Woody?!?

 

[Observe]

What are you doing to Woody?!?

I think we've found Sid.

 

[mvilla]

What are you doing to Woody?!?

Dude is going all out on those crisps... Now he's just chilling with some Haribo

 

[handymike]

Those are chips? It looked like a tube of Barger's cement.

 

[Bluechel]

What the heck Schott model is this? No epaulettes, etc.

 

[mvilla]

Those are chips? It looked like a tube of Barger's cement.

Nah, they're a pack of Burt's and Kettle crisps. Caught a movie with the family last night and the packs were left there. All tidy and clean now!