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[Mawashi]

Thanks Marc,

If it wasn't for this forum and you guys to bug it'll be a nightmare to get anything right the first couple of time

Cheers,

Mawashi

 

[58panheadfan]

@Mawashi I think you've learned enough from this forum, now it's time for you to get yourself a nice leather jacket and give something back with a good review... looking forward to see some fit pics of your Brakeman!

 

[Nacho]

Older Cafe racers were longer. My vintage 60s jackets are around 25.5in down the back and the zipper starts up a bit from the bottom. I prefer these longer ones to the shorter modern ones. The key is taper through the mid-section. Your bottom example looks too baggy for the length IMO. Here are 3 of mine:
View attachment 504868

Beautiful pieces, @handymike.

Is the top right one Kehoe? I see the zipper on top of the sleeve.

 

[handymike]

Beautiful pieces, @handymike.

Is the top right one Kehoe? I see the zipper on top of the sleeve.

Yes, it is! the one I've kept.

 

[Nacho]

Yes, it is! the one I've kept.

You've got yourself a gem there, sir.

Of all the Great Lakes area CFs, I think Kehoe looks amazing. The zipper on top of the sleeve is such a nice touch. Unique and cool!

I'm actually hunting for one and a Fidelity atm.

Thanks for sharing, @handymike.

 

[handymike]

Kehoe made the best IMHO...it took quite a few jackets to actually find one in my size (tagged 38).

 

[TartuWolf]

Hey folks!
Please help ID or find more info on this Schott:
https://www.vinted.fr/men/clothes/o...d-racer-jackets/2865922859-schott-cuir-buffle

Looks cool, price is good, seems like the measurements might be ok for me.
Just can't find any info on this model LC2142.
"Cow airborn" also sounds pretty funny for leather identification.
At least it's not lamb.

 

[Aloysius]

We had a thread ostensibly on this, but it just turned into an unpleasant pissing match between people who hate Aero and people who don’t. (I recently reread it to see if there was an answer to the original question; no such answer, lots of awful reading including of my own posts.)

Which makers don’t skive their seams?

Going to put in all the disclaimers this time: I’m not saying not skiving is “better”. I have no financial affiliation with Aero. I’m just curious because it’s the vintage American technique, in the same way I like shuttle loom denim, older indigo dyes etc.

Just curious about who’s using this method.

 

[Harris HTM]

Hey folks!
Please help ID or find more info on this Schott:
https://www.vinted.fr/men/clothes/o...d-racer-jackets/2865922859-schott-cuir-buffle
View attachment 506008
Looks cool, price is good, seems like the measurements might be ok for me.
Just can't find any info on this model LC2142.
"Cow airborn" also sounds pretty funny for leather identification.
At least it's not lamb.

just a warning before you buy: this is not Schott US but their outsourced (under licence) series. I've came to realise that Schott US has no control or overview over this. I've visited 2 Schott stores in the EU where the LC series are sold; one or two pieces seem decent, the rest felt really cheap but none of them were of equal quality to the US Schott's.
Ofcourse if you like the design and the price is low enough then you will probably enjoy the jacket. But keep in mind you might get disappointed by the quality - you shouldn't expect an item similar to a US Schott.

EDIT: just saw the price, for 200e maybe it is indeed worth to give it a try. At worst case it can become your beater jacket, something you wouldn't mind staining, scratching, etc.

 

[Jasonissm]

We had a thread ostensibly on this, but it just turned into an unpleasant pissing match between people who hate Aero and people who don’t. (I recently reread it to see if there was an answer to the original question; no such answer, lots of awful reading including of my own posts.)

Which makers don’t skive their seams?

Going to put in all the disclaimers this time: I’m not saying not skiving is “better”. I have no financial affiliation with Aero. I’m just curious because it’s the vintage American technique, in the same way I like shuttle loom denim, older indigo dyes etc.

Just curious about who’s using this method.

I always thought makers like Vanson don't skive the seams? Is that correct? It seems to line up with my experience the seams at least feel a little bulkier to me.

 

[Aloysius]

I always thought makers like Vanson don't skive the seams? Is that correct? It seems to line up with my experience the seams at least feel a little bulkier to me.

Funny that you say that because it was handling my (quite beautifully made) Vanson Comet that prompted the thought. The seams I can feel through the lining seem to be unskived.

 

[Jasonissm]

Funny that you say that because it was handling my (quite beautifully made) Vanson Comet that prompted the thought. The seams I can feel through the lining seem to be unskived.

Exactly, Vanson is the maker which turned on its head what I thought a good leather jacket was, originally I thought it was basically all about the stitching, skived seams, etc. but it's a whole lot more than that I now know.

That also reminds me of this Windward jacket @tmitchell59 posted a little while back. Since the lining is torn through it's interesting to me to see the layers of leather that make up the collar, unskived seams right? I wonder if other parts of the jacket are skived. This example stuck out to me because I thought it was quite neat to look at the construction detail that is usually hidden behind the liner.

As you mentioned skiving is an American vintage technique, I'm wondering which makers employed it? I assume ones who also used fancier construction like french seams?

 

[Aloysius]

As you mentioned skiving is an American vintage technique, I'm wondering which makers employed it? I assume ones who also used fancier construction like french seams?

Don’t have time for a full reply now, but I was saying the opposite, that not skiving was the ‘golden age’ American method for jacket making, which is why Aero doesn’t skive seams.

They have a few traditional British jackets that they make using different construction methods from the vintage American. I don’t think these are skived either but I find the construction techniques interesting.

 

[Jasonissm]

Don’t have time for a full reply now, but I was saying the opposite, that not skiving was the ‘golden age’ American method for jacket making, which is why Aero doesn’t skive seams.

They have a few traditional British jackets that they make using different construction methods from the vintage American. I don’t think these are skived either but I find the construction techniques interesting.

Okay, I misread that, that makes a lot more sense and lines up with what I thought. I appreciate both nicely skived seams and also unskived seams that are true to vintage.

Something like a Leathertogs is great with skived seams since I believe the vintage was made that way (?) with fine construction details

 

[Marc mndt]

Non of my vintage jackets have skived seams.

Something like a Leathertogs is great with skived seams since I believe the vintage was made that way (?) with fine construction details

As far as I can tell this leathertogs doesn't look skived either.

 

[Jasonissm]

Non of my vintage jackets have skived seams.



As far as I can tell this leathertogs doesn't look skived either.

View attachment 506171 View attachment 506172 View attachment 506173 View attachment 506174

Thanks for the photos! Are there any vintage jackets that even do skived seams then? Even this Peters Tailormade doesn't look skived, if there were makers that did way back I would have assumed the high end like Leathertogs or Peters. For some reason I thought you have said in the past that Leathertogs were built this way, but I think that was regarding the seam flattening technique on the sleeves of the Freewheelers jackets, is that correct? To me it looks like the example you posted doesn't have the flattened sleeve seams.

 

[Marc mndt]

For some reason I thought you have said in the past that Leathertogs were built this way, but I think that was regarding the seam flattening technique on the sleeves of the Freewheelers jackets, is that correct?

Yeah, some of the freewheelers jackets have flattened seams everywhere throughout the jacket. Not their Leathertogs and Peter's repros though, those look to be made exactly like the originals.

 

[Jasonissm]

Yeah, some of the freewheelers jackets have flattened seams everywhere throughout the jacket. Not their Leathertogs and Peter's repros though, those look to be made exactly like the originals.

Interesting, I wonder how much detail spec they provide to their factory regarding these sort of small construction details. Maybe their factory just makes it all with flattened seams unless specified otherwise, and I assume it would have to do with their reproduction like Peters and Leathertogs where they have a sample, versus their vintage inspired jackets like the Caboose, that don't have exact vintage to replicate the construction and maybe produced off their designs on a page or screen.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Hey folks!
Please help ID or find more info on this Schott:
https://www.vinted.fr/men/clothes/o...d-racer-jackets/2865922859-schott-cuir-buffle
View attachment 506008
Looks cool, price is good, seems like the measurements might be ok for me.
Just can't find any info on this model LC2142.
"Cow airborn" also sounds pretty funny for leather identification.
At least it's not lamb.

What Harris said. The Made in USA Schott will have the Made in USA label. This one you've got here is not made in their NJ factory but under license from somewhere else. Stick with the core Schott models like 618, 613...etc., can't go wrong there. The fashion ones aren't bad but don't overpay for them.

 

[Canuck Panda]

We had a thread ostensibly on this, but it just turned into an unpleasant pissing match between people who hate Aero and people who don’t. (I recently reread it to see if there was an answer to the original question; no such answer, lots of awful reading including of my own posts.)

Which makers don’t skive their seams?

Going to put in all the disclaimers this time: I’m not saying not skiving is “better”. I have no financial affiliation with Aero. I’m just curious because it’s the vintage American technique, in the same way I like shuttle loom denim, older indigo dyes etc.

Just curious about who’s using this method.

There are so many different ways of seam bulk reduction, skiving the edges is just one of the method. You can also fold the seam allowance leather differently to reduce bulk, butterfly, overlap, glue down...etc and more. Delete topstitch will also reduce bulk but doesn't look as permium imo. Or a combination of all the different methods. All roads leads to Rome. Don't sweat over it too much. I have 3 different Model B type jackets in three different leathers from three different production time and they have different seam constructions. Doesn't make one better or worse than the other. If you like the jacket, enjoy it. Usually within the first second handling the jacket in hand will let you know this.