Ask a Question, Get An Answer About Outerwear

[Will Zach]

^^
If you decide to try to fix it, contact Dena @iknowleather - your best bet.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Not really a question, but not sure where else to put this. I feel like selling my RMC Nelson and my Aero OG Hercules. Neither of them fit me the way I want them to. The Nelson is too short in the sleeves and body for my liking, and the position of the neck/collar on the Hercules digs into my neck and causes discomfort. I don't know where to go from here in terms of getting a jacket that fits me properly. I just want something in the style of these jackets that doesn't have a deal-breaking flaw. It's become obvious that price does not guarantee satisfaction, and more fumbling around on the internet blind purchasing isn't going to fix it. Over the last year and a half I've tried 4 different Aero jackets, an RMC, Simmons Bilt and they all didnt do it for me for different reasons. I don't want a closet full of random jackets that all fall short of their mark, I just want one daily driver that will work with everything. There's nothing local here beyond mall crap either, so trying on is not really feasible for me. I feel like I've just continued to waste money being disappointed and I'm ready to throw in the towel on the whole thing.

It sounds like you need bigger / wider shoulder both front and back. That's my best guess. The thing is none of the European or Japanese cuts are going to solve that for you. They are basically the same slim straight pattern block.
I would agree with the suggestion for something from USA brands, like Goodwear, if the Herc design is what you are looking for.

Goodwear Californian (I think his Hercules is based on the same pattern block, mine has plain back and the Herc will come with fancy panelling)
Wide comfortable shoulders up front, Comfortable back neck width, C and C (Crown?) zips.

Or Norshor, his is even more comfy. The difference is in the leather. GW offers aniline Shinki and Norshor is semi aniline Vicenza. Both equally good imo, just depends what you want brand wise. The Norshor I have is the Tweedy. But I will assume his "Herc" HB will run on very similar if not the same building block pattern as the one GW offers.

Both the GW and Norshor is size 44 which is the same as Aero's 40 but wider shoulder and wider neck. The slim straight cut from both Europe and Japan is gonna be tighter at the shoulder, at the similar measurements.

Another pupil of John Chapman leather jacket school is Regius who is a member here. His pattern runs very similar to the other two that came before him.

It has nothing to do with country politics, but American clothing pattern are cut differently than the ROW imo. Built more for daily wear and comfort. I am ok with slim straights and the stiff Brit cuts but I also wear my Johnson most of the time. Good luck.

 

[Observe]

It sounds like you need bigger / wider shoulder both front and back. That's my best guess. The thing is none of the European or Japanese cuts are going to solve that for you. They are basically the same slim straight pattern block.
I would agree with the suggestion for something from USA brands, like Goodwear, if the Herc design is what you are looking for.

Goodwear Californian (I think his Hercules is based on the same pattern block, mine has plain back and the Herc will come with fancy panelling)
Wide comfortable shoulders up front, Comfortable back neck width, C and C (Crown?) zips.
View attachment 460132
View attachment 460133

Or Norshor, his is even more comfy. The difference is in the leather. GW offers aniline Shinki and Norshor is semi aniline Vicenza. Both equally good imo, just depends what you want brand wise. The Norshor I have is the Tweedy. But I will assume his "Herc" HB will run on very similar if not the same building block pattern as the one GW offers.

Both the GW and Norshor is size 44 which is the same as Aero's 40 but wider shoulder and wider neck. The slim straight cut from both Europe and Japan is gonna be tighter at the shoulder, at the similar measurements.

Another pupil of John Chapman leather jacket school is Regius who is a member here. His pattern runs very similar to the other two that came before him.

It has nothing to do with country politics, but American clothing pattern are cut differently than the ROW imo. Built more for daily wear and comfort. I am ok with slim straights and the stiff Brit cuts but I also wear my Johnson most of the time. Good luck.

I've never heard of Norshor before, thanks for the tip. The Californian looks nice.

 

[Marc mndt]

The thing is none of the European or Japanese cuts are going to solve that for you. They are basically the same slim straight pattern block.

How do you mean, European or Japanese cuts are the same slim straight pattern block? Not all Japanese jackets are from the same pattern block, let alone Japanese and European jackets. That's just total nonsense.

 

[Canuck Panda]

I've never heard of Norshor before, thanks for the tip. The Californian looks nice.

He's a member here Fishmeok. And I think he is also friend with John Chapman from Goodwear. The only thing I will say is that I wished I had gotten my Tweedy jacket lined. It's cool the unlined version but lined is making more sense to me now...

 

[morrison2951]

I've never heard of Norshor before, thanks for the tip. The Californian looks nice.

Here's my Norshor HH Cossack Collar:

Nice jacket.

 

[Observe]

Anyone familiar with Dave Sheeley? He has an ebay page and seems to make some nice looking jackets.

Security Measure

www.ebay.ca

 

[handymike]

Anyone familiar with Dave Sheeley? He has an ebay page and seems to make some nice looking jackets.

http://[URL]https://www.ebay.ca/str...uid=kzOdHp2sQES&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[/URL]

Dave does beautiful work! He has been restoring jackets for years, and is a member here-
@Maverickson

 

[Observe]

Dave does beautiful work! He has been restoring jackets for years, and is a member here-
@Maverickson

I fired him a quick message on ebay but he replied that it would be June or July 2023 lead times. Bit of a long wait for me but I understand this is the busy time for jacket makers.

 

[Salmosalar]

I fired him a quick message on ebay but he replied that it would be June or July 2023 lead times. Bit of a long wait for me but I understand this is the busy time for jacket makers.

Take a look at Lewis Leathers in their vegtan sheep options - for me they make the best fitting jackets of all (even better than Thedi, which are also excellent patterns, fitwise) and that hide is also not only really beautiful leather but it drapes and shapes to the wearer better than any others I have (inc CXL, badalassi, vicenza, shinki, vegtan goat etc etc). Well worth a look as another option and lead times are usually pretty short when I have used them. I now have quite a few custom jackets from various makers - Thedi, Aero, Field Leathers, Lewis - and with the benefit of hindsight if I was starting anew I would go straight to Lewis first….

 

[handymike]

If you like the designs, LL are indeed great jackets. I really like my Dominator.

 

[cbez]

Which japan proxy services will let you declare a reduced value nowadays?

 

[Canuck Panda]

Which japan proxy services will let you declare a reduced value nowadays?

From Japan will allow you to declare gift and lower value at check out. It is the best deal for Rakuten items when they have the 10% off promo. Thanks @Blackadder

I've used all three, Buyee, Zenmarket and From Japan. Buyee is the easiest and fastest but cost the most. Zenmarket I used it for small store shopping and they are slower to ship the package than Buyee, and their Rakuten deal is not as good as From Japan. But Zenmarket is also quite easy to use and their rebate/loyalty program can work if you are high roller. I've only used From Japan for one Rakuten item and they impressed me with speed and the ability to declare "gift" and less value.

Buying directly from Japan will save at least one third. So the $2000 jacket is now $1300. Still expensive, but not overpriced. Buying direct means no return no exchange, so do your homework. Read up on everything. Translate every Japanese descriptions. Most of the Japanese jackets show up on Youtube videos from Japan.

Good luck.

 

[cbez]

From Japan will allow you to declare gift and lower value at check out. It is the best deal for Rakuten items when they have the 10% off promo. Thanks @Blackadder

I've used all three, Buyee, Zenmarket and From Japan. Buyee is the easiest and fastest but cost the most. Zenmarket I used it for small store shopping and they are slower to ship the package than Buyee, and their Rakuten deal is not as good as From Japan. But Zenmarket is also quite easy to use and their rebate/loyalty program can work if you are high roller. I've only used From Japan for one Rakuten item and they impressed me with speed and the ability to declare "gift" and less value.

Buying directly from Japan will save at least one third. So the $2000 jacket is now $1300. Still expensive, but not overpriced. Buying direct means no return no exchange, so do your homework. Read up on everything. Translate every Japanese descriptions. Most of the Japanese jackets show up on Youtube videos from Japan.

Good luck.

Yeah I've done it already, but snuck in under de minimis rule. Looking at a more expensive item now.

 

[TheBigEraser]

Good sirs, I am recently looking into this Four Speed Leather Jacket: Black Shadow. I know most of FSJ's offerings are homage to Langlitz. My personal principle for leather jacket is that if the original creator of the style is still in business, I would prefer not to buy the homage/copy version. For example, since Lewis is alive then I will not buy Addict Clothes. But this black shadow seems original to me: I have never seen such model in leather jacket version: raglan sleeves, zipper sleeves, snap button/zipper closure, and a semi-dress-semi-mandarin collar, belt loops. I just would like to check with you if you think this is their original design?

 

[Blackadder]

Good sirs, I am recently looking into this Four Speed Leather Jacket: Black Shadow. I know most of FSJ's offerings are homage to Langlitz. My personal principle for leather jacket is that if the original creator of the style is still in business, I would prefer not to buy the homage/copy version. For example, since Lewis is alive then I will not buy Addict Clothes. But this black shadow seems original to me: I have never seen such model in leather jacket version: raglan sleeves, zipper sleeves, snap button/zipper closure, and a semi-dress-semi-mandarin collar, belt loops. I just would like to check with you if you think this is their original design?

View attachment 461789

Four Speed is a MTO maker. Their offerings include generic CHP and others styles. I have never thought of them as specializing in making copies or clones of Langlitz. They do have a Cascade style jacket but it is probably pursuant to customers' orders.
Take for example this Johnson Leather that mirrors a Cal and the fact that JL had been making clones of Langlitz for Westride per Westride's order.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...ded-cafe-racer-style-m-c-jacket-sz-42.106226/
Langlitz has or had some varsity jackets made by Dehen but I have never seen something like the Black Shadow.

 

[TheBigEraser]

Four Speed is a MTO maker. Their offerings include generic CHP and others styles. I have never thought of them as specializing in making copies or clones of Langlitz. They do have a Cascade style jacket but it is probably pursuant to customers' orders.
Take for example this Johnson Leather that mirrors a Cal and the fact that JL had been making clones of Langlitz for Westride per Westride's order.
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...ded-cafe-racer-style-m-c-jacket-sz-42.106226/
Langlitz has or had some varsity jackets made by Dehen but I have never seen something like the Black Shadow.

Thanks for the reply Blackadder! I am happily taking back my comment regarding homage to Langlitz, let's say it's just my personal feeling. And thanks for the confirmation on the Black Shadow!

Btw, did you ever have the chance to handle their FSJ's standard cowhide? If yes could you please share your insights?

 

[Blackadder]

Thanks for the reply Blackadder! I am happily taking back my comment regarding homage to Langlitz, let's say it's just my personal feeling. And thanks for the confirmation on the Black Shadow!

Btw, did you ever have the chance to handle their FSJ's standard cowhide? If yes could you please share your insights?

Four Speed is too hardcore for me. I have never handled one myself. Sorry.

 

[Al 916]

I am looking for a tailor to shorten the sleeves on a Vanson Maverick in the UK (Pref SE).

Any recommendations appreciated.

Thanks
Al

 

[Spiney]

I am looking for a tailor to shorten the sleeves on a Vanson Maverick in the UK (Pref SE).

Any recommendations appreciated.

Thanks
Al

Cromford in London will do it but it will be expensive.