Armpit issue on AL cafe racer

[andywuzc]

Dear all

I have noticed an issue with my new cafe racer jacket and feel that the armpit holes are made too low.
Whenever I try to raise my arms horizontally or higher, I feel strong resistance under armpit.
Both armpits are pulled up and the upper shoulder part become roomy and baggy.
I have to say this jacket was purchased from a returned item at AL and shoulder parts are about half inch bigger than my fit.

I bought this returned customised jacket:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?80054-Alexander-Leathers-Cafe-Racer&highlight=andywuzc

Anyone has the same experience?

Here are some pics
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k600/andywuzc/IMG_2612_zpsnpkkqngj.jpg
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k600/andywuzc/IMG_2611_zpsfcxerdv9-1.jpg
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k600/andywuzc/IMG_2610_zpsggopzlcy.jpg

 

[ProteinNerd]

I'm pretty sure what you are describing is normal on a thick leather jacket.

 

[andywuzc]

Hi Proteinnerd

Thanks for your reply. So, what concerns me is that the extra shoulder length is not causing this effect, right?
I will post some photos to show this

 

[Don Tomaso]

Simply keep your arms down, you're not supposed to do PE in that thing. Nice jacket btw.

 

[zebedee]

This is normal. It will decrease with time, but you won't be doing YMCA movements with the normal alacrity.

 

[andywuzc]

 

[l0fielectronic]

I've just slipped on my old Brooks cafe racer as I was sorting out the wardrobe and yes, does just the same as this if I do make such a pose.

 

[Feraud]

Simply keep your arms down, you're not supposed to do PE in that thing. Nice jacket btw.

Easier said than done. While commuting to and from work I frequently raise my arm over my head when holding subway and bus handrails.
Most modern jackets have crappy armholes that pull the entire side of the jacket over the shoulder.
If only life were easy enough to never have to lift an arm.

 

[andywuzc]

Does this action damage the armpit stitching? I see the the stitching needle holes become bigger.
Kinda afraid one day it will tear up....

 

[Fanch]

Appears more a design issue than one of sizing. Underarm gussets would definitely help. Are the seams under the arms offset?

 

[ProteinNerd]

All of my thick leather jackets do this, if I need to raise my arms up, I just make sure its unzipped. Hell my suit jackets would do this if they were buttoned up as well, its just exacerbated by the less forgiving, stiffer leather.

 

[IXL]

I have a Vanson/Insurrection PLU-3 jacket with the same problem: skinny little arm holes and tight across the back. Just zipping the cuffs was enough to cause carpel tunnel. And while the cut is flattering I suffered the dreaded "buyer's remorse." A heavy sweater paired with this jacket isn't going to happen.
But after concluding that proper circulation is greatly overrated, this jacket was worn for an hour or more at every chance. This has resulted in a tremendous amount of easing and softening, and it now is quite comfortable to wear. I don't think it will ever work with a heavy layer underneath but it has broken-in nicely and offers good movement.

 

[LouisBailie]

Appears more a design issue than one of sizing. Underarm gussets would definitely help. Are the seams under the arms offset?

They way they correct what you are referring to is to put "footballs" under the sleeves like the anj-3 jackets.
The jackets can be ordered that way.

 

[trapp]

Mobility issues aside, the shoulder and upper arm area look totally weird to me in that rearview shot.

 

[Worf]

"Footballs" or "gussets" solve this problem ONLY if properly sized and installed. I'd a Schott who's gussets were not properly installed and only functioned to annoy me... it's gone to Goodwill. My Pike Bros. B-10 has them as well and they work perfectly because the left the shearling lining OUT of the gusset area. I can raise and lower my arms and nothing moves that's not supposed to.

Worf

 

[ProteinNerd]

Mobility issues aside, the shoulder and upper arm area look totally weird to me in that rearview shot.

My understanding is that the cafe racers are designed with a little more room in the shoulder and upper arm to allow the jacket to be worn in the riding position?

 

[Carlos840]

Mobility issues aside, the shoulder and upper arm area look totally weird to me in that rearview shot.

That's probably because the jacket was sized for me, and i asked for wider shoulders since i am pretty V shaped.
Saying that, my jacket also rides up when i do the scarecrow pose... Good thing i don't walk around like that all day!

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?80054-Alexander-Leathers-Cafe-Racer

Fit pics on page 4

 

[Tommer45]

I know exactly what you mean. I've had the same problem with Aero and Lost Worlds. The only top shelf leather jackets I own that don't have this problem are my Langlitz, which are custom made to the sizes I provided. I love my Aero, but the arm holes are just cut wrong, and with the lack of underarm gussets the entire jacket lifts when I raise my arms (even just to grab the steering wheel in the car). Even with tons of wear and breaking in, the problem continues to persist. I won't sell my Aero because of it, but I can't say it's my most comfortable jacket.



My Lost Worlds Suburban that fit so poorly I sold it:






Here's my Langlitz that fits like a glove:

 

[andywuzc]

Really, Lost Worlds Suburban looks really ridiculous. Why the hell they make jackets with such a low arm point. I must say my cafe racer with collar is similar too. Same with half-belt.
This can surely be improved if they raise the armpit cut.

 

[nick123]

That Suburban is a beautiful jacket. The thing is, how often do we really have our arms up like that? If you're riding/sitting and it rides up, fair enough, but that jacket is spectacular.