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Appropriate tie length?

Mr. Purple

New in Town
Messages
42
Location
Stockholm, Sweden
When giving advice concerning tie length, most authorities seem to recommend that they should not reach below the trouser waistband. I tend to wear a waistcoat most of the time myself, but otherwise I follow this rule as I think this is the length most esthetically pleasing.
I've recently bought Natty Adams's and Rose Callahan's excellent book "I am Dandy", where well dressed men are interviewed and pictured, and I was somewhat surprised to see Mr. Talese, mr. Wooster, mr. Hayes, mr. Richards, and mr. Yamato all wear their ties quite a bit longer.
Now, I could be jumping to conclusions, but can't help noticing that these gentlemen are all American. Is there different taste regarding tie length on your side of the pond? I haven't noticed this before.
 
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herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
Mr. Purple, you seem to have stumbled upon a vintage / modern divide rather than a U.S. / Euro divide.
Lots of modern Europeans also wear longer ties. those who prefer the shorter tie length tend to be those who only buy vintage ties.
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
oh, and if you follow Italian style it's de rigueur to set the fat end an inch below the waistband, and the thin end.... wherever it ends up after that:

tumblr_mc6h198s1b1qc8xtuo1_1280_zps22b35946.jpeg


tumblr_mr216xLNTl1qad1efo1_1280_zps42771989.jpg
 
Messages
17,215
Location
New York City
When not wearing a waistcoat, to my eye (and how I was taught years ago by a very traditional dresser) was that the tip of the tie should fall between the top and bottom of the belt. Anything longer or shorter looks funny to my eye. That said, watching old movies has shown me that tie lengths, like widths, have been all over the place historically. When I look at the classic outfits from the best dressers over the years (Cary Grant, Jimmy Stewart, David Niven for example), at their best - they all have had a few off days that are better to overlook - most of the time, their tie tips fall between the top and bottom of the belt.
 

scottyrocks

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,178
Location
Isle of Langerhan, NY
Yes, only the 'triangle' at the bottom of the tie hangs over the top of the waistband.

When I'm wearing a waistcoat, I tend to make the tie a little shorter so it doesn't poke out of the bottom.
 

Flat Foot Floey

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,220
Location
Germany
Mr. Purple, you seem to have stumbled upon a vintage / modern divide rather than a U.S. / Euro divide.
Lots of modern Europeans also wear longer ties. those who prefer the shorter tie length tend to be those who only buy vintage ties.

:arated: and apart from that I really don't care much. I never looked for the triangle over waistband thingy for example. [huh]

Too long looks much worse than a bit too short (whatever the point may be) though.
 

Mr. Purple

New in Town
Messages
42
Location
Stockholm, Sweden
Mr. Purple, you seem to have stumbled upon a vintage / modern divide rather than a U.S. / Euro divide.
Lots of modern Europeans also wear longer ties. those who prefer the shorter tie length tend to be those who only buy vintage ties.

Thanks for the clarification, Herringbonekid. I'm still not sure I agree the ties you see staying above the waistband/belt are all vintage, though. Surely it is possible to simply employ a knot that will shorten the tie, or hide the thinner end somehow?
Much as I love the Golden Era, I haven't (yet!) reached the point where I only buy vintage ties and shirts - though several of my suits, coats and jackets are. This calls for some creativity when tying modern-length ties to be worn with high rise trousers (though the aforementioned waistcoats do solve the problem most of the time!)
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
Thanks for the clarification, Herringbonekid. I'm still not sure I agree the ties you see staying above the waistband/belt are all vintage, though. Surely it is possible to simply employ a knot that will shorten the tie, or hide the thinner end somehow?

i'm not sure which images you're referring to, but generally you can't find modern ties as short as ties from the 20-40s.
elaborate knots which take up more fabric look thicker... which looks more modern.
there aren't many ways to hide a long thin end. either in the shirt or down the trouser. :eek:
 

Mr. Purple

New in Town
Messages
42
Location
Stockholm, Sweden
i'm not sure which images you're referring to, but generally you can't find modern ties as short as ties from the 20-40s.
Well, I refer to ties worn with modern lower rise trousers now. Most people I see wearing modern business suits on a day-to-day basis have either 1. No tie at all (Swedes generally hate formality!) or 2. Ties that reach to the belt/waistband top.
The problem with the modern ties only arises when one wants to wear them with high rise pants, and the problem with thicker looking tie fabric only when one wants to replicate the entire vintage look in one outfit - which I personally do only occasionally.:)
Sorry if I was incoherent!
 

emigran

Practically Family
Messages
719
Location
USA NEW JERSEY
Vintage (particularly 40's) tie lengths were quite a bit shorter, no...?!?! and also pant waists where much higher as well..
 
Messages
10,939
Location
My mother's basement
Yes, ties were typically shorter back in what we around here often call the "golden era."

I can assure you that many of my older ties (I got a whole bunch of 'em; just can't resist picking 'em up when I come across 'em in my searches for old stuff) won't reach anywhere near as far as my waistband unless I leave so little tail that it makes tying the knot a challenge.

Combine those shorter tie lengths with the generally taller modern man and you might find him wearing those old ties only with vests.
 

Matt Crunk

One Too Many
Messages
1,029
Location
Muscle Shoals, Alabama
I of course have a penchant for vintage '40s and '50s ties, which are shorter. But even if wearing a modern tie, the longest I would ever wear would be with the tip just touching my belt line. I'd rather see a tie end half a foot above the belt, than going even an inch below it. But according to style guides I've read, anything within a couple inches of the belt line either way is the acceptable modern standard.
 

Richard Warren

Practically Family
Messages
682
Location
Bay City
Tie lengths come and go. In the nineties people wore their big suits with ties down to their crotches. writers who pretend to interpret classic styles tend to advise you to avoid extremes. I find most ties have a place where they as meant to be tied with the best knot.
 

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