Any full made to measure jacket makers?

[jay_cali]

Hi All,

I emailed Carrie yesterday and it seems Aero shoulders and p2p are static, all other things can be modified.

Size wise I easily fit Schott 654 medium (p2p 21) and I need shoulders 19". Not able to find any aero pattern with this config. There are 22+ p2p with 19" shoulders which will make jacket too baggy on back and chest.

I am looking for J100 style, are there any jacket makers similar to aero quality with MTM?

Simmons bilt does full MTM for $400 extra, thats one option I am thinking of.

I saw a FS post a while back for Simmons bilt j100 44 in shinki which was similar to my measurements , not sure it was custom or stock sizing.

 

[samo]

Thedi can also make You a full custom sized jacket.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Johnson Leathers in San Fransisco - my favorite leather jacket maker - can work with you.

 

[jay_cali]

Johnson Leathers in San Fransisco - my favorite leather jacket maker - can work with you.

Thanks, emailed him. They do have a J100 repro.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bhcj5ePH9lX/

 

[Monitor]

Johnson Leathers in San Fransisco - my favorite leather jacket maker - can work with you.

Seconded!

 

[Dr H]

Dave Sheeley

 

[jonbuilder]

I live close enough to Johnson Leathers that I went to their store to try on a test jacket made from canvass. Alan marked adjustments with caulk. I also went to the store where Alan measured me for the jacket.

 

[seres]

Thedi can also make You a full custom sized jacket.

Would you go direct to THEDI, or work through Carrie at Thurston Bros.?

 

[jay_cali]

@Seb Lucas @Monitor Thanks, got a reply from Alan. He suggested 2.5-2.75oz Horween HH. I am planning to visit him this weekend. any other leather recommendation in mid-weight/lightweight HH?

 

[lucky23]

Langlitz Leathers.

 

[Skyhawk]

We do full custom work at Headwind. We don't have a pure Café Racer model yet but we will be releasing one in the future. We do have our A-1 Racer, a hybrid of the A-1 jacket and a Café Racer. Also we have a new model coming out that we are literally making the pattern for at this moment. It is the A-2 Racer, a hybrid of the A-2 jacket and a Café Racer. I expect to have a prototype by may 1st. We can customize any of our jackets for a small fee of $50.

I could easily make a J-100, made to measure. I have Talon zips and Steer and Horsehide. Actually it is in my future plans as a model to make. I am busy working on other projects right now, but be on the lookout for a pure Café Racer style from Headwind in the future.

Best Regards,
Jay

 

[Seb Lucas]

@Seb Lucas @Monitor Thanks, got a reply from Alan. He suggested 2.5-2.75oz Horween HH. I am planning to visit him this weekend. any other leather recommendation in mid-weight/lightweight HH?

Alan is great. I have had him make me three jackets from across the ocean. I'm in Melbourne, Australia. God, I think I need another. A goat something... maybe a two pocket cafe racer.

 

[jonbuilder]

@jay_cali I recommend making an appoint with Alan if you are going to Johnson Leathers. That way he sets time aside time to work with you. He is at the store over 90% of the time the store is open but not 100% of the time. You do not want to deal with anyone except Alan.

 

[jonbuilder]

I forgot about Langlitz if you want a jacket in a style they make; they do a full on made to measurements and they will do the measurements if you in Portland. My experience is 15 years old when Dave Roth's son-in-law was the manager.

 

[jonbuilder]

Langlitz did not charge more for jackets made from measurements. Johnson Leathers does charge more for made to measurement jackets, but than Johnsons Leather has great sales in the store for off the rack leather from time to time.

 

[jay_cali]

How is Johnson quality wise as compared to Aero?

Got an update from Simmons bilt:
Their stock 40 j100 sizing:

p2p: 22"
Hem: 20"
Shoulders: 18.5"

Deb said they can try to move shoulders, p2P by 0.5" max. also tolerance limit of 0.5". so its possible I can get a jacket with no changes with extra fees of alteration. Sleeves, jacket length as per my sizing.

Aero board racer sizing has bigger p2p to shoulders ratio as compared to SB.

 

[Grayland]

Do you really think a 1/2 inch in the shoulders is going to prevent the jacket from fitting you well?

 

[Monitor]

I am once again going to quote Stu from LW on "shoulder width" measurement.

We are often asked to provide "shoulder measurement." In genuine tailoring no such measurement exists as there is no seam:seam length to measure. Further every (pseudo) "shoulder measurement" would differ according to armhole and sleeve configuration, which differs in every style and every mfg. Others, however, will provide this "length." We will not, as it has nothing to do with correct fit, misleads more than leads, and we're sticklers for correctness.

 

[El Marro]

Do you really think a 1/2 inch in the shoulders is going to prevent the jacket from fitting you well?

If it’s a 1/2” too tight then it absolutely will!
I myself pay close attention to shoulder measurements on a jacket because I have broad shoulders, especially in relation to my chest measurement. Most of the time that I have had a jacket not fit because it’s too tight it is been because the shoulders were not wide enough.
I am happy to except Stu’s point about shoulder measurements. On the other hand if you measure straight across the back from seam to seam where the arm meets the jacket that provides a shoulder measurement that works just fine for me when it comes to determining my size.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Johnson jackets are every bit as well made as Aero.

Shoulder measurements are important. I have tried on jackets that fit everywhere but the shoulders. Less than 19 inches across is a problem for me.