Another Cafe Thread: help me make a decision!

[deepestbluest]

Hey all, I'm new here even though I've been a major lurker for quite some time now. I finally got up the nerve to make a thread since I've been searching high and low for a Cafe-style jacket that looks great and will last.

I do ride, quite often, and already have protective gear (with armor) but want a jacket that occasionally covers double duty: if I am going around the corner on the bike, or wearing out on the town. This wouldn't be my dedicated riding jacket, it would be my dedicated jacket so I'm more concerned about fit and style.

Bringing me to the question at hand - I'm a really slim dude, 6', 155, 38" chest and 30" waist. Most jackets look fantastically stupid on me - like I'm wearing my big brother's dress shirt. I do have a long torso and long arms, so that tends to add to the confusion, especially since riding adds to this.

Last month, I went out on a limb recently and purchased a nearly new Vanson Model B Deluxe in size 40, and it's definitely too big for me - almost everywhere. Although it's a fantastic jacket, it's not nearly slim enough. I can't tell if this is just because the sizing is completely off for me, or that's just the cut. It's a revelation for me in terms of quality, it's just too dang big.

This brings me to Schott: I'm really interested in the 141, 641, and 641HH. On appearance, the 141 is the most appealing to me, but I've read a few places that it's cut more 'generously' than the 641. However, it's offered in Long sizes!

On sizes, the Schott sizing tool puts me in a 36 in the 141 (possibly a Long) and a 38 in the 641. I have monkey arms and a long torso, so I've found that at least a 26" length in both body and arms is absolutely necessary for me. Does that rule out the 641 entirely for me?

I should note I've looked at the 530 as well, but it just doesn't appeal to me as much as the other two. I also checked out the Vanson Comet PLU-3, which looks amazing, but the lack of handwarmer pockets is putting me off in a major way. I've spoken with Carrie @Thurston at length, and she's absolutely amazing, but I think she's annoyed with me at this point (just buy a jacket already!). She's suggested a 38 in the Comet or another B Deluxe.

On sizing, is 36 or 38 better? In which model? Any help is hugely appreciated. Oh, and if anyone wants a new Vanson Model B deluxe in 40, I do have one I'll sell.

 

[El Marro]

I own a Vanson Comet PLU-3 and in my opinion it is a perfect cafe racer. The cut of this jacket is slim yet comfortable and allows for a good range of motion. The fact that it has no bells or whistles or anything extra is part of the charm for me. I hear your concern about hand warmer pockets and initially I had the same worry. I find that I rarely use these on any of my jackets though and I don’t miss them on the Comet.

 

[Jin431]

Good luck with your next jacket. Since you are here maybe think about a made to order jacket to get the measurements and your own preferences made to spec. All the best.

 

[Turnip]

Sell your car, buy them all.

 

[JMax]

IMO, Vanson for on the bike. Between the B and Comet, I’d go Comet. Slimmer, simpler. The plus 3 would be spot on for you length wise. I would consider Vanson’s Model A too. Great for riding. Check that, incredible for riding. But of the three probably the most MCish with the AB. So perhaps a tad less versatile off the bike. I’ve owned all three. And ride. You can’t go wrong with pretty much any Vanson if you ride.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

In a few hours, I'm doing a post about my 141. I have a love hate with it. For perspective, I'm 6'0 185, 43 chest, broader shoulders. 19 shoulder, 23.25 pit to pit and 26.25 back is probably my perfect jacket size if I'm going for more second skin kind of thing.

I've got a size 40 141. The fit is kind of all over the place. Probably could use a .25 inch more in the sleeves and .25 to .50 in length, but it's not bad as is. The main issue for me is the bi-swing/arm gusset layout. It just doesn't work for me on this particular jacket. I was going for more slim/sleek/etc. Jacket looks great from the front, but the side is kind of clunky/sloppy for me. The way the underarm intersects, the back pulls, etc. It's very functional and comfortable, but for me at least, it wasn't giving me the sleek look I wanted. I don't ride, but imagine, it would be great for that giving you the extra free range of motion.

So, I really love the leather though. The 100 series Schott is natural aniline. So it's kind of gooey, spongy, rubbery. I was trying everything to make it work. Different settings on the side belts, played around with the elastic that controls the back. Just couldn't get it right.

Last night I tried on my other jackets with Biswing to see if there's this issue as well. Sure enough it's only the 141. So I started comparing the cuts and I realized the length of the pleat of the 141 was a lot longer than the 118 and 519 I have. I started wondering if I stitched down the lower part of the biswing what it would do. Kind of played with it and decided to go for it. So it's at the tailor right now, I did a quick try on, and it definitely made me happy. It fixed most of the baggy/poofiness I was getting under the arms and lat area. But I kept the top part of the biswing so I could have some movement.

So for you, I think you're going to have problems with fit. As you go up in size to accomodate torso, arms, etc. you're probably going to get that bat wing sort of thing. The other thing that's a little off is the bicep area. It's quite large compared to the taper of the forearms. So if you've got skinny arms, that might be a problem as well.

In hindsight, I probably would have been better off going with the 641 for the slimmer fit, but I really wanted that 100 series leather.

edit: btw, ask Schott for the measurements. They'll give you the usual specs and you can compare the 38 641 with the 36 141. Probably going to be close. Look at waist and hip too for full understanding.

 

[TREEMAN]

Sounds like the 141 is too small for you......making the biswing come out. 40 seems too small for 43 chest

 

[jpk_NJ]

Just posted an armored comet pic in the what are you wearing thread, mine was a 40 (suggest 38 for you). I was in your dilemma a while back. Wanted a "do it all" jacket for on the bike and casual. However, I came to realization that I didn't want to compromise my on bike safety for style or an extra $500. Buy two jackets, riding jacket first. Then when riding season is over or money allows, go for the casual street jacket.
For me, if the armor isn't in the jacket when I put it on, I won't wear the armor. My Forecefield shirt with armor pockets has been worn 3 times and stays in the closet. Any casual jacket I wear for style doesn't have the room to accommodate the armored shirt (just shoulders elbows for me). Trust me, I tried the all in one approach and it just doesnt work.
If your a cross zip / chp guy, then go Vanson armored Force. If cafe racer is more your thing armored Comet.

 

[jpk_NJ]

Recommend direct from Vanson while they still have the 15% promo going. Assuming the item is in stock. Ive had no problems returning jackets that didn't fit or I didn't like for another. Order two styles and send one back

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

Sounds like the 141 is too small for you......making the biswing come out. 40 seems too small for 43 chest

yeah, the problem is going with 44 would have been way too big in waist and hip. 40 was what was recommended when I plugged in the numbers and wanted slim fit. The 141 runs big. Although I was a few pounds lighter back then. It wasn't so much that the leather wasn't settling, there just seemed to be too much of it and wasn't going back in right. Could just need a few months of hard wear to break it in. Hard to explain, just felt sloppy. But I think I got it fixed.

 

[ton312]

I’m with @El Marro. The plu-3 at your height is a must. Two-way main zip, simple and sleek. I think that’s got your name all over it.

 

[Psant25]

You can go custom with vanson you know right? Try the 38 comet plu and if it fits send back and get one with handwarmer pockets if u want. I had carrie make me a model b without the streamliner inside zip and snaps, nickel hardwar, delete windflap, delete side cinches, z150 leather. Lol damnit i miss that jacket another one i regret selling.

 

[deepestbluest]

This has all been hugely helpful! I definitely am going to look more closely at the Comet PLU-3, and have kind of have been put off the 141.

What does a custom jacket cost? I'm guessing it has a lot to do with modifications done, but with something like just hand warmers, what am I looking at cost wise?

 

[deepestbluest]

For me, if the armor isn't in the jacket when I put it on, I won't wear the armor. My Forecefield shirt with armor pockets has been worn 3 times and stays in the closet.

Totally agree with this! I already have an armored jacket, and an armored shirt that I periodically wear under less resilient coats; this purchase is more an emotional and lifestyle one: I want to be able to wear it on the bike if necessary, but it'll definitely be prioritized as a lifestyle piece.

 

[Monitor]

I like Vanson B most, at least of the jackets from the list that I've seen.

 

[Juanito]

If it is actually going to be a riding jacket, just have Vanson make up whatever you want. I have had a couple made for me and they are dead on.

 

[deepestbluest]

If it is actually going to be a riding jacket, just have Vanson make up whatever you want. I have had a couple made for me and they are dead on.

How long does this usually take? I was under the impression this is quite a long process...

 

[Psant25]

This has all been hugely helpful! I definitely am going to look more closely at the Comet PLU-3, and have kind of have been put off the 141.

What does a custom jacket cost? I'm guessing it has a lot to do with modifications done, but with something like just hand warmers, what am I looking at cost wise?

From thurston it was like 800-850 or something just to go custom. I think that is what mine was with those mods. More mods and price could be more. I think when I was working with vanson on a custom chp it was similar. Vanson had a 15 percent off sale and they took that off also even though custom. They have a 15 percent off sale now. For them i paid for a stock chp had them send for fit and return worked out well and communication was great. I think after applying the sale going custom was like 90 bucks over stock

 

[deepestbluest]

Copy that. I'm a bit hung up on production times; are we talking months or weeks? I hate to be impatient, but this is the first "real" leather purchase so inevitably I am...

 

[Psant25]

Copy that. I'm a bit hung up on production times; are we talking months or weeks? I hate to be impatient, but this is the first "real" leather purchase so inevitably I am...

Usually months but trying out a fit jacket back and forth and researching and figuring what mods to make is all part of the fun. Soon months of waiting will turn into years of waiting on the next and the next and the next lol