ANJ4 and the like, 1/2 panel impacts bunching up under arms

[deeds]

On a jacket like the ANJ4, some makers use one panel for the back (LW) others (like AERO) use 2.
I also notice that on many of the photos where people are wearing the jackets, there is a sort of bunching up and sticking out/up/bulging from excess material on the back around the arm pits. Trying to find an example now, spurr of the moment, is difficult but this is one here (hope the owner, whoever it is doesn't mind- this was from a google search)

Wondering is two panels may lessen this since there may be more flex/tighter fit because of the centre stitch.

What do you think?




Also, I know its not the style/designed fit of these jackets (most notably the b3 for example) but who would you say makes the least loose/closer fitting (given "correct" sizing) of the ANJ4s?

 

[Bfd70]

Well you hit the nail. They are boxy. Wartime pattern to fit a variety of body types. Not a fashion cut. That said, if sized right they aren’t like wearing a tent.

 

[MrProper]

I think that's just a lot of material with shearling. And that has to go somewhere with the movement.
With my Shearling is similar, although this is relatively tight.

 

[powersci]

Here's a (not so great) pic of me in my ANJ4 from Aero. It's fully zipped in the front and my hands are just resting by my waist. I can see some bunching in the image, but not a ton. The back of the jacket is pretty flat. I'm fine with it getting creased/bunched near the arm pits; it makes it easier to move in. I remember trying on @Bfd70's ANJ one time and it was a challenge to move around in. Not playing down his jacket at all. It was great and clearly meant to last a life time.

I agree with what @Bfd70 and @MrProper said: the jacket is a boxy cut and it's made from a thick, heavy sheepskin. So bunching is bound to happen. Wonder if having a gusseted back like on Aero's B-6 would help?

I will say that Aero lets you customize the measurements of the jacket to some extent. I remember getting them to widen the typical waist measurement on a military sheepskin jacket for me.

 

[MrProper]

Here is a back view of an Aero Coastal Command. This is less pronounced, but probably due to the different cut.

 

[deeds]

Here is a back view of an Aero Coastal Command. This is less pronounced, but probably due to the different cut.
View attachment 362775 View attachment 362776

this jacket has quite a nice fit at the back and the multiple "panels" linking the arm to the back probably help with that. Beautiful fit.

 

[deeds]

Thanks guys, it is what it is i suppose. The jacket is meant to fit a certain way and it is cut to reflect that plus, yes, I'm sure the bunching helps with movement when stretching. Anyway, who cares i guess, ill never see it from the back when I'm wearing it

 

[deeds]

Well you hit the nail. They are boxy. Wartime pattern to fit a variety of body types. Not a fashion cut. That said, if sized right they aren’t like wearing a tent.
View attachment 362295

i remember this one, I've seen the pictures you posted before. She is damn pretty

 

[Bfd70]

I think that's just a lot of material with shearling. And that has to go somewhere with the movement.
With my Shearling is similar, although this is relatively tight.
View attachment 362297 View attachment 362296

Refresh my memory on the details of this one.

 

[Bfd70]

Btw, i decided against sheepskin for this winter and was gonna wear my peacoat. You guys are making me second guess.

 

[MrProper]

Refresh my memory on the details of this one.

This is my 5* Fantasy Trucker D1.
Base is a D1, with the back of a B3 with buttons and breast pockets.
I am about to order another shearling at 5*. I love this in the winter.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/5-shearling-mix-of-d-1-b-3-trucker.102324/

 

[Doctor Damage]

Flight jackets were never designed for people to stand in picturesque locales posing for photos to post on instagram; quite the contrary, they were designed for people wearing multiple layers underneath (cold) and moving around a lot, even if strapped into the pilot's or co-pilot's seats (arms stretched forward, etc), so jackets needed room in them. If jackets were snug the crew would just blow out the seams quickly.