Anatomy of a hat?

[Flieger]

I don't know about the rest of you, but I could surely use a thread covering the "Anatomy of a hat"... I did a search here on the F-Lounge backlog and was surprised that I could not find one. IF one exist (and I missed it) it would be nice to have it as a 'sticky' for reference.

So, experts and veterans please help us newbies out here: Please describe the various parts of a hat - I'm hoping for multi-view line drawings here with colored arrows pointing out:

Body (materials)
Crown (sizes)
Brim (sizes)
Lining
Sweatband
Hatband
Bow
Taper

etc, etc...

I'm sure all this information already exist here on the Lounge but I guess it's spread all over the place.

/Flieger

 

[HamletJSD]

In addition to Flieger's request, but along the same lines, there seems to be a lot of mixing of the words "block" and "bash" ... they are different things are they not?

 

[Dutch McCoy]

I totally agree. As someone who is new to the hat world, I also need these terms a little more defined. I would be grateful for any help any of you veterans would like to pass on. Thank you.

 

[Dinerman]

 

[Flieger]

Thanks, Dinerman. That's a good start.

/F

 

[Ande1963]

Took me a long time to figure out over welt. Anyone smarter than me wanna take a shot at that?

Anj

 

[Feraud]

I thought part of the fun was reading and digging for the answers. [huh]

 

[Orgetorix]

Overwelt: The edge of the brim is folded over towards the crown and stitched down.

Underwelt: The edge of the brom is folded over downwards, towards the sweatband, and stitched down.

Cavanagh/Guild/Mode edge: An over- or underwelt where the seam is felted back into the brim and the stitching is removed.

 

[Orgetorix]

In addition to Flieger's request, but along the same lines, there seems to be a lot of mixing of the words "block" and "bash" ... they are different things are they not?

A hat block is a form, usually made of wood, on which a hat is shaped. Putting a hat on a block and conforming it to the block's shape is called blocking. Most felt hats are blocked on dome-shaped blocks, and then the bash or crease is added by hand or by machine. Most panama hats are done on blocks that have the hat's finished shape--bash, front pinches--carved into the wood.

"Bash" is a term used a lot here on the FL, but not much elsewhere, apparently. A more common term is the crease. Bashes or creases give the crown of the hat its shape and can take lots of forms--center dent, c-crown or teardrop, diamond crown, cattleman's crease, and many more.

In any case, when you hear people here talk about their hat's bash or about bashing a hat, it seems they're usually referring to something you do by hand, perhaps with the help of some steam.

Blocking, or re-blocking, is something usually done by a hatter who has the tools and equipment to do it properly. Though a few members have learned to do their own.

 

[HamletJSD]

Thanks Orgetorix ... That is about what I had figured out. The confusion comes because "blocking" done by the hatter often includes what members here call the "bash," and in a few posts I have seen the two terms interchanged.

Thanks again to all trying to help this thread along!

 

[Flieger]

I thought part of the fun was reading and digging for the answers. [huh]

Maybe not all people feel that way, Feraud... and besides, reading and digging might not be so meaningful if one don't understand the basic terminology? [huh]

/F

 

[cooncatbob]

D-Man: That's a rather unusual ribbon. I haven't seen you post this hat before, is it new? Bob.

 

[Dinerman]

I've posted it before, but not in its own thread. It's a great hat, but it was too small (I got it in a lot so that I could get a mallory I liked), and the oval of the crown was slightly out of whack with the oval of the brim, so I ended up selling it. This is one of the few that really pained me to do so, but I have good pictures of it, so I'll always have a record.

 

[carter]

Dinerman, What style is the hat you posted? Who made it? I like that hat as much as the Templeform I bought recently that is too small. Maybe I can find another one.

 

[Dutch McCoy]

Thank you all very much for the information. Now I am far less clueless about the anatomy of hats. Now I only have to learn about the different styles and makers. Oh, joy.

 

[Yohanes]

What about lining? I'm still a bit confused what it really means.. unlined, lined, and what does it looks like exactly and where?

 

[Dinerman]

Lined

Unlined

 

[Feraud]

What about lining? I'm still a bit confused what it really means.. unlined, lined, and what does it looks like exactly and where?

The lining is the material portion inside the hat. The inside of the hat is either lined or not.

Here are hat liners with a logos

Unlined hats will not have this. You will only see the hat felt.

 

[MrPumpernickel]

What is the purpose of the plastic that some hats have in the top section of the lining then? I can understand that it's some protection for the hat itself from sweat in case your head touches the top of the hat, but is there any other reason for having it there?

 

[Cicero]

What's the main reason you want a lined or unlined hat?
Is it just a matter of taste or something else?
In my case i'm only interested in lined hats because i find them more attractive.
I can imagine that you choose an unlined one in the summer...