An Open Crown Block For Us Amateurs?

[Visigoth]

Been thinking about buying an old dome-shaped hat block, so I could straighten out vintage hats before hand bashing them. And then I stumbled across this today: http://www.hatshapers.com/Product Pages/Straight_Sided_Dome.htm

Would this do the trick? I'd get the 22 1/2", as the hats I buy tend to be 7 1/4. I'm not the kind of guy who can remove and sew on sweat bands and ribbons -- would this be useful for shaping the top of the crown, with the sweat and ribbon in place?

 

[Fedora]

I have heard of several folks who are using these to keep their hats looking good. The 22 1/2 would work for a 7 1/4 hat size. Fedora

 

[BellyTank]

I believe that if you used their tall, dome block and some MDF and DIY, you could actually MAKE a hat- of course you'd need to consider the hats height- a too-high crown will become reverse-tapered when you try and crease it deeper to lose some height. The 'dome' on the Hatshapers block is actually quite shallow, after the termination of the straight sides, so putting a bash in the hat, which is greater/deeper than the dome height will give the mentioned 'reverse-taper' and square edges, compared to what you'd be able to achieve with a deeper, more tapered dome.

Am I making sense here? If not, try pushing your crown dent deeper and nore the effect and consider what you have to play with.

You may be able to make a flange and fasten it(somehow)to the plastic block, in order to control/limit the blocked height.

A DIY hat is something I've been planning on trying for years, especially after seeing the efforts of the good Mr. Bowers and a wooden block.

I think Fedora mentioned in an earlier thread about using a (paraphrasing here)"real, old American Fedora block", which might be something like what I'm prattling on about- a more specifically shaped and domed crown to the block.

Bla bla...

Fedora..?

B
T

 

[Rick Blaine]

yes & no...

I am right at 23"/ 7 3/8/59cm and in retrospect I think that if I had bought the straight sided dome model at 23" rather than 23 1/4" I would've been ok. I will say that the shape seems not quite the same as an open crown/unblocked hat and not really the same as the photo on the hatshapers website either... it sorta has a bit of a "break" (for lack of a better term) in the transition between the vertical sides & the domed top... close but not quite right. That said, it did a passable job on the two I used it for... just slightly TOO big. It is a good alternative and a good product, I wish they made brim flanges too. I have since bought a vintage wooden 7 3/8 dome shaped block and it seems "truer" in shape. That said I am going to buy another hatshapers, the medium fedora @ 23" 'cuz freehanding a teardrop is quite beyond me... :eusa_doh:

Rick
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[Visigoth]

Thanks! I have also found a vintage wooden block, which I could buy -- it has a brim mold attached (which is, I take it, a flange?) The dome is covered in felt, oddly enough -- is this a protective thing, which you remove when you block a hat?

 

[mthatter]

erased by mt

 

[Fedora]

think Fedora mentioned in an earlier thread about using a (paraphrasing here)"real, old American Fedora block", which might be something like what I'm prattling on about- a more specifically shaped and domed crown to the block.

Bla bla...

Fedora..?

Yes, I was referring to a number 51 block that has a nice tall tapered dome. This blockshape yields a nice Bogey fedora especially the 6 inch tall 51 blocks. Most of the height is creased into the hat. Fedora

 

[Rick Blaine]

Is the # 51 block...

Yes, I was referring to a number 51 block that has a nice tall tapered dome. This blockshape yields a nice Bogey fedora especially the 6 inch tall 51 blocks. Most of the height is creased into the hat. Fedora

... the ROLA block?

 

[Fedora]

... the ROLA block?

Oh no, not even close. The 51 block is a classic fedora block that lends the diamond crease or C-dent readily. Typical American fedora block, or at least one of the several used. The 51 also lends a great porkpie crease.(can't recall what the correct term is), but you see it on the Croc Dundee hat as well. The shape of the block was designed with the final outcome in mind. The classic Homburg block lends the English type of top crease quite well, like the one sported by Indy. You can't say enough about block shapes if you are looking to nail a particular look, or style. Fedora

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Yes, but I'm having absolutely no luck finding a 52 block. Are they still being made, Fedora?

.

 

[Visigoth]

I need a 7 1/4 open crown, and came across a vintage mold with the following description. Would this do the trick?

SOLID WOOD CROWN MOLD - FELT COVERED - STAMPED: M. A. CUMING, 7 1/4, AND 246 - HAS NORMAL WORM HOLES AND SOME SMALL PEEL, MINOR CRACKING, STILL STRONG, NO REPAIRS

BRIM MOLD - STAMPED: 937, 7 1/2, AND -NO HEAT CHECKERING OR REPAIRS, DOES HAVE A FEW DINGS - A VERY NICE MOLD!

 

[Fedora]

Yes, but I'm having absolutely no luck finding a 52 block. Are they still being made, Fedora?

Sure, you can get a new one, from folks like JW of JW Hats out of Salt Lake City. With that said, I have bought a complete collection from ebay, over the last 3 years. The 51 and 52 used to be quite common there, but I have not looked lately. The one that is hard to find is the number 60, and I still need two to complete my collection. A number 25 is very very similiar to the 60, but it is hard to find that one as well, at least on ebay. I like the old blocks if they are in good shape, or can be repaired without too much trouble. Most were Poplar, an excellent wood for this purpose. And all of my vintage blocks are one piece blocks. I have yet to see a new hat block that was not pieced and glued. Guess it is hard to find trees large enough to cross section these days, or lumber companies just do not offer it. Fedora

 

[Rick Blaine]

DANGER...DANGER...

I need a 7 1/4 open crown, and came across a vintage mold with the following description. Would this do the trick?

...as I understand it unless you are going to remove the sweat, a 7 1/4 would, in fact, be for a 7 3/8 size head, as the blocks were designed to block hats w/o a sweat in place and are actually a size larger than marked, allowing additional room f/ the insertion of the sweat... does that make sense? [huh]

This subject really heated up the forum not long ago, so if I am mistaken, I am sure someone will step fwd. to set the record straight...

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Thanks, Fedora!

Turns out my eye hasn't been too "eagle" lately. I've just learned that an old 52 block turned up on eBay recently. It was won by one of us Loungers ... and for an excellent price, too:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280003624116


.

 

[Fedora]

I need a 7 1/4 open crown, and came across a vintage mold with the following description. Would this do the trick?


Quote:
SOLID WOOD CROWN MOLD - FELT COVERED - STAMPED: M. A. CUMING, 7 1/4, AND 246 - HAS NORMAL WORM HOLES AND SOME SMALL PEEL, MINOR CRACKING, STILL STRONG, NO REPAIRS

BRIM MOLD - STAMPED: 937, 7 1/2, AND -NO HEAT CHECKERING OR REPAIRS, DOES HAVE A FEW DINGS - A VERY NICE MOLD!

Depends on what you are looking for the blockshape to yield. Blocks vary quite a bit in dome shape and taper. I am not familiar with the number 246 and do not know what sort of shape it has.


If you are going to use a block with a crack, it is best to repair the crack prior to use. That is, if you are gonna iron the hat while on the block. The cracks can show up once you iron and pounce the felt. The imperfections can actually show through the felt as light areas. Of course, if you leave the felt covering on the block, no problem. I have never used one that was covered with felt, but it seems to me this would make it difficult when pulling the hat over the block, especially if you were needing to get some taper out of the hat. Fedora

 

[Fedora]

as I understand it unless you are going to remove the sweat, a 7 1/4 would, in fact, be for a 7 3/8 size head, as the blocks were designed to block hats w/o a sweat in place and are actually a size larger than marked, allowing additional room f/ the insertion of the sweat... does that make sense?

Yes, that is correct. If you are wanting to reblock a hat while leaving the sweat in, you go with the next smaller size. A hat block used to make a 7 3/8 (23 inches)hat is actually 23 1/2 in diameter, or 1/2 inch larger than the size of the head. This extra is there to allow for the sweatband. That is common, but I have seen many blocks that only allowed 3/8 an inch for the sweat. 1/2 inch is better. Fedora

 

[Rick Blaine]

Many Thanks

Yes, that is correct. If you are wanting to reblock a hat while leaving the sweat in, you go with the next smaller size. A hat block used to make a 7 3/8 (23 inches)hat is actually 23 1/2 in diameter, or 1/2 inch larger than the size of the head. This extra is there to allow for the sweatband. That is common, but I have seen many blocks that only allowed 3/8 an inch for the sweat. 1/2 inch is better. Fedora

... Fed', ol' man... your knowledge is only exceeded by your generosity with it...:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

 

[Visigoth]

Right then... seems I want a 7 1/8. This one might do the trick, no?

http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-HAT-MOL...ameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

The crown mold says "7 1/8, 5, and 246" -- does that mean five inches tall?

I'm thinking of paying about thirty bucks -- sound right?

This seems similar:

http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-HAT-MOL...goryZ114QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[Fedora]

Right then... seems I want a 7 1/8. This one might do the trick, no?

http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-HAT-MOLD...photohos ting

The crown mold says "7 1/8, 5, and 246" -- does that mean five inches tall?

I'm thinking of paying about thirty bucks -- sound right?

This seems similar:

http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-HAT-MOLD...QQcmdZViewItem
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Looks like a classic derby block. Sure, that would work if you are looking for a derby blockshape. But, I am just guessing here, as I cannot see the block in its totality. The 5 is indeed the height of the block. The height also indicates it produces a derby style of hat as well. If you put creases in a hat that came from this block, it would be at most, 4 1/2 inches tall after creased.

If you can get it for 30, you will get a deal. Fedora

 

[GentlemanFarmer]

Block numbering

Okay gang, bear with the neophyte for a moment. When you guys speak of a 51, 52 or 60, is that the type of crown crease or bash that is created by using that particular number of block? I've been to Hatshapers and they have the different crown shapes. Is there a numbered block that would create the Alpine/Dress Alpine crease (Cattleman's)? Thanks.