AN-J-3 liner options

[Steve S.]

This week, my order of French goatskin arrived for the AN-J-3 jackets that are patterned from the original Willis & Geiger n my collection. When I restored my original, The remnants of the liner were brown Bemberg rayon, same as the W&G M-422a's. I made the liner for the original & the first prototype out of the correct material. I know some comment that they aren't partial to the rayon, so wanted to ask this question: Would you like to see an optional cotton liner material like was standard on the A-2? I'm thinking about making myself one & am seriously considering the cotton liner for something a little different from all of my M-422a's. Just curious if most go for exact originality when purchasing a jacket or like to see options available.

Heres my restored original


the first prototype


the new hides

 

[Bunyip]

I think there's two very different markets Steve. There are the historical purists who seek stitch for stich repro authenticity, and enjoy the search and research this involves. Then there are the others, myself included who prefer to have some options and wriggle room in the design. Some might prefer a YKK for cost or practicality, some would have kittens over the suggestion of a non period correct zip. For me, it's a combination of a few things. Sometimes it's cost and every little reduction helps get over the line, sometimes I just like a lining with a bit of pizaz, or an action back, or some detail like a yolk or a 3 panel back for some more detail. I think if you are able to provide an accurate repro for the first group, maybe with some flexibility when it comes to zip/lining choice etc for the layman you can't go wrong. Your not going to be able to please everyone every time......

 

[thor]

I agree with Bunyip; offering a mil-spec "authentic" version and a "civilian" version seems like the way to go. There were quite afew civilian jacket manufacturers back then that copied military jackets (hence the many WWII references to "private purchase" jackets that were worn in combat by aviators).
It begs the question: if the military truly wanted to streamline jacket production and procurement, why design a new jacket (the AN-J-3) when they could have just told the Navy to switch to the A-2 (or the USAAF to switch to the M-422a)? Then 6 months later they drop leather jackets altogether and go to cloth jackets (B-10).
Steve S. your jacket looks awesome; will you be taking custom orders? Do you have a website? I'm in the market for a mil-spec M-422a.

 

[Sloan1874]

Strangely, I now have a thing about zips. If you want to put me off a jacket, stick a YKK on it. Dunno why, they are perfectly good, but it just yells bog-standard to me.

 

[Steve S.]

I agree with Bunyip; offering a mil-spec "authentic" version and a "civilian" version seems like the way to go. There were quite afew civilian jacket manufacturers back then that copied military jackets (hence the many WWII references to "private purchase" jackets that were worn in combat by aviators).
It begs the question: if the military truly wanted to streamline jacket production and procurement, why design a new jacket (the AN-J-3) when they could have just told the Navy to switch to the A-2 (or the USAAF to switch to the M-422a)? Then 6 months later they drop leather jackets altogether and go to cloth jackets (B-10).
Steve S. your jacket looks awesome; will you be taking custom orders? Do you have a website? I'm in the market for a mil-spec M-422a.

Ha! when it comes to govt., a trip around town is always seen as the easy way to get across the street! no website, I just work off of requests & referrals.

 

[Steve S.]

Strangely, I now have a thing about zips. If you want to put me off a jacket, stick a YKK on it. Dunno why, they are perfectly good, but it just yells bog-standard to me.

The only thing I've done with YKK zips is remove them from jackets!

I have other money saving options that are much better than YKK. I buy as many vintage, new old stock talons as I can find at an affordable price & use those. Whenever i can get my hands on a wasted wartime zip, I transplant the bottom stopper box & puller onto one of the NOS zips. see below pics of a "converted" zip.

 

[Ralph_Phillips]

Not a history stickler here but I think that jacket with a Bemberg lining and a few interior pockets would be fantastic.

 

[Bunyip]

Strangely, I now have a thing about zips. If you want to put me off a jacket, stick a YKK on it. Dunno why, they are perfectly good, but it just yells bog-standard to me.

Agreed. Zips are one thing I find as part of nice jacket details now. A nice point of difference.

 

[Stand By]

When I first learnt of the ANJ-3 and saw photos of an original and became interested in one, I did a lot of my own on-line research into the type and, a couple of months later, felt that it combined the best elements of both the A2 and M422-A and made the most practical sense and looked fantastic too. Some examples had an interior front flap and others an exterior one, so there was some variance there, plus some had epaulettes and others not too.
From what I could establish, it seemed that some ANJ-3s were intended for the USAAF but the majority were for the USN.
It occurred to me that I could choose certain elements I wanted (like the design of the front flap) - and I wanted a cotton lining, as I wanted a material that breathed better than rayon and was stronger over time and less apt to wear at the main points of wear; those being the shoulders and neck. I felt that it made sense that an ANJ-3 for the USN would have had a rayon lining like the M422-A - but would the ANJ-3s for the USAAF have had rayon too, or would they have had a cotton lining like an A2? I could not establish that at all.
So I felt that, as my Aero ANJ-3 was going to have 12th/15th AF patches, it could have a cotton lining - and that was what I opted for.
I chose a heavy cotton (for durability) in a nice chestnut colour which, I felt, gave a nod to the rayon lining but wasn't.
And I'm delighted with it.
So my bottom line is that I think people shouldn't be held to what was true mil. spec. for lining material. As long as the material is of good quality, looks the part and performs is all that really matters.
Two photos to illustrate:

 

[Steve S.]

Thanks for the input! Kind of what I was thinking in offering two types of liners as there were really 2 distinct versions of this jacket. I've even seen a couple originals that didn't have epaulettes.

Those Aero's are nice! I recently had one just like yours in here for the addition of a fur collar.