Am I looking for a leather jacket that doesn't exist? (Aka help a fella out)

[Boyo]

What size are you? If you're a common size 38-46 or so, there are hundreds of 2nd hand jackets available whether recently manufactured or true vintage . you would be missing out if you didn't explore that route.
find a well fitting jacket and almost none of the jackets other components matter.

 

[Chevalier]

I second the suggestion to try out some affordable secondhand jackets to learn more about what you really like (or don’t) in a jacket.

Much as I love cafe racers, they just don’t fit my body type (relatively broad shoulders and narrow waist) as well as a cross zip. I don’t think I could have figured this out any other way, aside from trying out a few examples of each type. It helped me separate attributes of an individual jacket from those of a style of jacket.

Also, much as I love my two vintage goatskin G-1s, goatskin ages differently from other leathers. I think another advantage of used jackets is that you get to see how different leathers age.

 

[floater]

Thedi memphis in olive goat is nice but that’s currently a long wait if not in stock.

 

[MrProper]

Much as I love cafe racers, they just don’t fit my body type (relatively broad shoulders and narrow waist)

But isn't that the perfect body type for café racers?

 

[newtojackets]

But isn't that the perfect body type for café racers?

seconded

 

[Chevalier]

But isn't that the perfect body type for café racers?

Maybe I still haven’t found the ideal cafe racer? One that fits my shoulders doesn’t taper to my waist. One that fits my waist is too narrow at the shoulders. Of course, I’ve only tried about three different cafe racers in used jackets. They seem pretty popular these days, so it is harder to find affordable experimental examples

 

[MrProper]

Maybe I still haven’t found the ideal cafe racer? One that fits my shoulders doesn’t taper to my waist. One that fits my waist is too narrow at the shoulders. Of course, I’ve only tried about three different cafe racers in used jackets. They seem pretty popular these days, so it is harder to find affordable experimental examples

That's the reason why I can't buy second-hand jackets and have them made to my measurements
But in principle the Aero Café Racer has more taper than a boardracer. There will certainly be differences between the. different models.
My tip: choose a jacket that fits well at the shoulders and sleeves and then have a good leather cutter make the taper.

 

[Chevalier]

That's the reason why I can't buy second-hand jackets and have them made to my measurements

You are making me feel better about graduating to custom made I agree that it is worth the extra cost, when you know what specs you cannot find in an off the rack jacket.

I plan to visit Langlitz next week on my trip to Portland…

 

[floater]

Maybe I still haven’t found the ideal cafe racer? One that fits my shoulders doesn’t taper to my waist. One that fits my waist is too narrow at the shoulders. Of course, I’ve only tried about three different cafe racers in used jackets. They seem pretty popular these days, so it is harder to find affordable experimental examples

Have you tried a vanson comet?

Or you could try one with cinch straps on the lower back.

 

[MrProper]

Or you could try one with cinch straps on the lower back.

Chinch straps don't work with every body type. For me, everything compresses and bulges at the natural waist (this was the case with my Lewis Leathers jackets. A leather cutter provided a remedy). For me, for example, a Y shape works much better than a V shape.

 

[floater]

Chinch straps don't work with every body type. For me, everything compresses and bulges at the natural waist (this was the case with my Lewis Leathers jackets. A leather cutter provided a remedy). For me, for example, a Y shape works much better than a V shape.

I’m kinda in the same boat as I also prefer Y shaped but some V’s with cinch straps also work, especially if they’re at the waist vs hem, not all though.

What really doesn’t work for me, and I get that excess bunching at the waist, is a straight torso with cinch straps.

But I mostly wear my jackets open, I only zip up sometimes when riding and I don’t ride that much, so minimal bunching from the straps isn’t that noticeable to me on some V’s.

 

[Chevalier]

Have you tried a vanson comet?

Or you could try one with cinch straps on the lower back.

Yes! I got a beautiful Comet from @ksozay a few years ago. It is another of my vintage finds that I have kept. Did I mention that I seem to have relatively long arms? I also prefer a little bit of extra length in my jacket arms and don’t mind them bunching up a little. I feel like a recipe for most jackets not fitting well, but I’ll bet a lot of people feel this way about their body type.

I have learned all this through exploring used jackets. I like that FL provides a community where we can circulate around our finds and also get advice from each other

 

[Canuck Panda]

Second hand leather jackets is where it's at.

It's still best to go to a place where there are many racks full of jackets available to try on or just to look at the construction/leather...etc. Picture is better than words. In person hand feel beats all.

 

[LuddGang]

What size are you? If you're a common size 38-46 or so, there are hundreds of 2nd hand jackets available whether recently manufactured or true vintage . you would be missing out if you didn't explore that route.
find a well fitting jacket and almost none of the jackets other components matter.

I’m a 42 (or occasionally 44), so I think this is good advice. I guess I had been reluctant to go down this road as it could be a lot of trial and error, buying and selling etc. But then again, I went through all of that with footwear before ultimately settling on the manufacturers I like and that was worth it.

 

[LuddGang]

.

 

[Honeybadger]

I've been lurking here for a while and it's been a really great resource, so I thought I'd finally jump in and hope someone can help. I've decided to buy a leather jacket, having not worn one in a few years, but even after a lot of research I'm struggling to find something that ticks all the boxes. The issue, I think, is primarily one of colour/material. I'm looking for:

Wants

Leather - Goatskin is my strong preference here, but I'm open to suggestions of something similar. I don't want horse or anything that's going to require a really laborious break-in or be excessively heavy duty for day to day wear. I don't ride motorcycles and ideally want something that's broadly suitable for spring/summer/autumn in the UK. I won't wear it in winter so layering will be pretty minimal, just a shirt or t shirt underneath (or both if it's a chillier day).

Style - I like Aero's Highwayman, 50s half belt (standard and long) and Plainsman. I also like Y2's single rider's jacket and Lewis Leather's countryman and lumber jacket styles. So I'm relatively open minded here but definitely do not want zipped cuffs, buttons or anything too complicated or ornate.

Colour - This is where I'm really struggling. I'd love something close to Aero's cordovan, but I can only find goatskin in black or brown. I'd also be interested in a dark green - Lewis's sheep green is the only only I've found so far.

Provenance - Preference is for something manufactured in the UK, but if necessary will consider other brands where production is in-house and I know the workers are paid a decent wage and treated fairly (so US/Japan/Europe). Would really like to avoid any brand that uses anonymous outsourced production. Would ideally like to avoid plastic or synthetic materials in the lining.

Price - There's ready-to-wear Aeros that get close to everything I want, so I'd be reluctant to go much higher for a new jacket. I don't want to go down the custom or bespoke route. I'd be open to a used example but would probably rather buy new so that there's a chance to return it if the fit isn't right.


Does anyone have any ideas for me? Am I going to have to compromise on colour in order to get a quality leather (without going custom)?

Having done a lot of research, my current conclusion is that I'll probably have to settle for black goatskin and wait for something to pop up on Aero's ready to wear section, but I thought I'd throw it out here in case someone knows better or can talk me down a different path.

The only 2 manufacturers I can think of that may come close are aviation Leathercraft although they mainly do flying jackets they did make a line of bike jackets but don’t know if they still do (in the winter I love my irvin from them)
And Wested who make the Indiana Jones’s jackets ( they made the original from raiders) I know they offer goat in some of their ranges and they do make some nice biker jackets - suggest you email them
Good luck

 

[Alabama Blacksmith]

Bill Kelso .....great selection of leathers , made to order with body measurements and pics of drape , and the patterns are among the best ! Looking at a Relic Hunter myself , their striated lamb is thick ( for lamb) , strong ( tough) and has beautiful chatschter . .

 

[pillepalle123]

My tip: choose a jacket that fits well at the shoulders and sleeves and then have a good leather cutter make the taper.

I would certainly add well fitting chest as well, but shoulders is most important since that alteration is really expensive.
Depending on the style, sleeve alterations are quite cheap. (if there is no zipper)

Explore what you like, buy a high quality second hand jacket and let a tailor alter it where needed. This will still cost much less then an off the shelf jacket from one of the expensive/high end makers.

 

[LuddGang]

I actually ended up solving this just by going into the Lewis store in London. Their 44 is perfect off the rack for me and the green sheep looked great. I’ve also picked up their Memphis jacket since then (very lightly used - I think it was unworn) and will probably mostly stick with them now I know the fit is spot on without having to go custom.