Am I looking for a leather jacket that doesn't exist? (Aka help a fella out)

[LuddGang]

I've been lurking here for a while and it's been a really great resource, so I thought I'd finally jump in and hope someone can help. I've decided to buy a leather jacket, having not worn one in a few years, but even after a lot of research I'm struggling to find something that ticks all the boxes. The issue, I think, is primarily one of colour/material. I'm looking for:

Wants

Leather - Goatskin is my strong preference here, but I'm open to suggestions of something similar. I don't want horse or anything that's going to require a really laborious break-in or be excessively heavy duty for day to day wear. I don't ride motorcycles and ideally want something that's broadly suitable for spring/summer/autumn in the UK. I won't wear it in winter so layering will be pretty minimal, just a shirt or t shirt underneath (or both if it's a chillier day).

Style - I like Aero's Highwayman, 50s half belt (standard and long) and Plainsman. I also like Y2's single rider's jacket and Lewis Leather's countryman and lumber jacket styles. So I'm relatively open minded here but definitely do not want zipped cuffs, buttons or anything too complicated or ornate.

Colour - This is where I'm really struggling. I'd love something close to Aero's cordovan, but I can only find goatskin in black or brown. I'd also be interested in a dark green - Lewis's sheep green is the only only I've found so far.

Provenance - Preference is for something manufactured in the UK, but if necessary will consider other brands where production is in-house and I know the workers are paid a decent wage and treated fairly (so US/Japan/Europe). Would really like to avoid any brand that uses anonymous outsourced production. Would ideally like to avoid plastic or synthetic materials in the lining.

Price - There's ready-to-wear Aeros that get close to everything I want, so I'd be reluctant to go much higher for a new jacket. I don't want to go down the custom or bespoke route. I'd be open to a used example but would probably rather buy new so that there's a chance to return it if the fit isn't right.


Does anyone have any ideas for me? Am I going to have to compromise on colour in order to get a quality leather (without going custom)?

Having done a lot of research, my current conclusion is that I'll probably have to settle for black goatskin and wait for something to pop up on Aero's ready to wear section, but I thought I'd throw it out here in case someone knows better or can talk me down a different path.

 

[Zoro]

Sounds like you know exactly what you want and with a lot of constraints that basically invalidate any option I can think of (aka custom).

I think the only thing other than settling would be contacting Aero to see if they can do one of the styles you want in the color you prefer. Even if they are likely to say no (the colors they have available for goatskin are Black, Russet or Seal), at least you'll know for sure... And I hope that this is not invalidated by not wanting to go custom either way. Or maybe you can buy the lighter color and risk dying it yourself.

 

[Monitor]

I've been lurking here for a while and it's been a really great resource, so I thought I'd finally jump in and hope someone can help. I've decided to buy a leather jacket, having not worn one in a few years, but even after a lot of research I'm struggling to find something that ticks all the boxes. The issue, I think, is primarily one of colour/material. I'm looking for:

Wants

Leather - Goatskin is my strong preference here, but I'm open to suggestions of something similar. I don't want horse or anything that's going to require a really laborious break-in or be excessively heavy duty for day to day wear. I don't ride motorcycles and ideally want something that's broadly suitable for spring/summer/autumn in the UK. I won't wear it in winter so layering will be pretty minimal, just a shirt or t shirt underneath (or both if it's a chillier day).

Style - I like Aero's Highwayman, 50s half belt (standard and long) and Plainsman. I also like Y2's single rider's jacket and Lewis Leather's countryman and lumber jacket styles. So I'm relatively open minded here but definitely do not want zipped cuffs, buttons or anything too complicated or ornate.

Colour - This is where I'm really struggling. I'd love something close to Aero's cordovan, but I can only find goatskin in black or brown. I'd also be interested in a dark green - Lewis's sheep green is the only only I've found so far.

Provenance - Preference is for something manufactured in the UK, but if necessary will consider other brands where production is in-house and I know the workers are paid a decent wage and treated fairly (so US/Japan/Europe). Would really like to avoid any brand that uses anonymous outsourced production. Would ideally like to avoid plastic or synthetic materials in the lining.

Price - There's ready-to-wear Aeros that get close to everything I want, so I'd be reluctant to go much higher for a new jacket. I don't want to go down the custom or bespoke route. I'd be open to a used example but would probably rather buy new so that there's a chance to return it if the fit isn't right.


Does anyone have any ideas for me? Am I going to have to compromise on colour in order to get a quality leather (without going custom)?

Having done a lot of research, my current conclusion is that I'll probably have to settle for black goatskin and wait for something to pop up on Aero's ready to wear section, but I thought I'd throw it out here in case someone knows better or can talk me down a different path.

Yo.

For an OTR jacket that fits all of your criteria, I'm afraid your options are extremely limited & sans waiting for a specific release by any of the good makers, you are going to have to go custom.

Now, whether this is going to cost you a lot or a little is entirely up to you as there are quite a few really good makers in Asia that can make you the jacket you describe for a comparatively very affordable sum of money - And please note that I am not talking about Temu or TaoBao sweatshops here because I hate that, too - or as you said, you could have Aero or LL or someone make it for you but that, of course, is going to cost a lot.

Other than that, I really have no idea what other route there is.

 

[LuddGang]

Thanks guys. Contacting Aero is a good idea @Zoro , I could visit them in person beforehand which would alleviate a lot of my worry about going custom.

Are you able to recommend any particular makers in Asia, @Monitor ? That's a world I know nothing about. I'm pretty confident on measurements - I have other jackets that work for me - I'm just conscious that leather isn't the same.

 

[Monitor]

Thanks guys. Contacting Aero is a good idea @Zoro , I could visit them in person beforehand which would alleviate a lot of my worry about going custom.

Are you able to recommend any particular makers in Asia, @Monitor ? That's a world I know nothing about. I'm pretty confident on measurements - I have other jackets that work for me - I'm just conscious that leather isn't the same.

You could try asking @red devil as he has had several jackets made by these guys and each one has been a success. I'm sure he can help you out.

 

[MrProper]

Just a thought... you wrote that you don't want a HH, but I would still consider Vicenza Cordovan. At least my Vicenza is no more complicated to wear than a goat. It's soft and comfortable to wear.

The green veg tanned sheep from lewis is very comfortable and not too thin. The question would be whether there is a jacket that meets your requirements.

 

[LuddGang]

Just a thought... you wrote that you don't want a HH, but I would still consider Vicenza Cordovan. At least my Vicenza is no more complicated to wear than a goat. It's soft and comfortable to wear.

The green veg tanned sheep from lewis is very comfortable and not too thin. The question would be whether there is a jacket that meets your requirements.

Thanks for replying - your posts have been really helpful when reading through lots of older threads. Could I ask what style you have the Vicenza in and what the mobility is like? I'm open to any leather, really, it's just that Goatskin seems to be in the sweet spot in terms of what I'm looking for. I just don't want to get something so heavy or restrictive that it looks great but ends up languishing in the wardrobe because it's not comfortable in day-to-day life.

 

[Bfd70]

The jackets pattern has as much to do with whether or not it’s restrictive as does the leather type.
The tanning also has a big impact.. Schotts naked steerhide for example is super pliable from the get go.

 

[MrProper]

Thanks for replying - your posts have been really helpful when reading through lots of older threads. Could I ask what style you have the Vicenza in and what the mobility is like? I'm open to any leather, really, it's just that Goatskin seems to be in the sweet spot in terms of what I'm looking for. I just don't want to get something so heavy or restrictive that it looks great but ends up languishing in the wardrobe because it's not comfortable in day-to-day life.

I have made a video here, which hopefully gives you an impression of the mobility.
The jacket is an Aero Vincent aka Ridley. It looks stiffer than it is.

Karsten on Instagram: "Mobility check of the Aero Vincent. I can move well in it, but it lifts the jacket significantly when I raise my arms. It’s a good thing I only have to move my arms like that with a zombie walk. #leatherjacket #crosszip #aer

199 likes, 11 comments - krstnkln9000 on November 30, 2024: "Mobility check of the Aero Vincent. I can move well in it, but it lifts the jacket significantly when I raise my arms. It’s a good thing I only have to move my arms like that with a zombie walk. #leatherjacket #crosszip #aeroleather...

www.instagram.com

 

[LuddGang]

The jackets pattern has as much to do with whether or not it’s restrictive as does the leather type.
The tanning also has a big impact.. Schotts naked steerhide for example is super pliable from the get go.

Thanks - this is a good point. I've been steering clear of Schotts because I'm in the UK and I think being sure a jacket is from their Made in the USA range could be a bit of a nightmare without knowing exactly what to look for, but I'll be in NY next winter so will definitely try and visit while I'm there.

 

[Zoro]

I have made a video here, which hopefully gives you an impression of the mobility.
The jacket is an Aero Vincent aka Ridley. It looks stiffer than it is.

Karsten on Instagram: "Mobility check of the Aero Vincent. I can move well in it, but it lifts the jacket significantly when I raise my arms. It’s a good thing I only have to move my arms like that with a zombie walk. #leatherjacket #crosszip #aer

199 likes, 11 comments - krstnkln9000 on November 30, 2024: "Mobility check of the Aero Vincent. I can move well in it, but it lifts the jacket significantly when I raise my arms. It’s a good thing I only have to move my arms like that with a zombie walk. #leatherjacket #crosszip #aeroleather...

www.instagram.com

Did the jacket lifting go away over time? Was it hard/stiff yet possible to raise your arms to lift up the collar for example?

Edit:

Thanks - this is a good point. I've been steering clear of Schotts because I'm in the UK and I think being sure a jacket is from their Made in the USA range could be a bit of a nightmare without knowing exactly what to look for, but I'll be in NY next winter so will definitely try and visit while I'm there.

AFAIK, it's quite easy: If it's made in USA, it will be stated in the product description and there'll be a tag with the American flag. Also, the price will be 50-100% higher.

 

[MrProper]

Did the jacket lifting go away over time? Was it hard/stiff yet possible to raise your arms to lift up the collar for example?

The jacket does not move upwards because the leather is stiff, but because the armholes are not quite as high and there is a little too much P2P.
As the leather is not elasticated and the jacket has no gussets, it has to move with me. The leather itself is soft. I definitely can't stand the jacket up.
I can move very well in it. Scratching my head, turning up the collar, adjusting the cap, ... it all works wonderfully.

 

[Zoro]

I can't move very well in it. Scratching my head, turning up the collar, adjusting the cap, ... it all works wonderfully.

I take it this is a typo and you can move very well?

I think I read an old message from you mentioning about how ordering a different size at Aero but getting custom measurements for your body doesn't work precisely due to the armhole remaining as per the chosen size, so I guess this is not the jacket that showed that (if any did at all ).

 

[MrProper]

I take it this is a typo and you can move very well?

I think I read an old message from you mentioning about how ordering a different size at Aero but getting custom measurements for your body doesn't work precisely due to the armhole remaining as per the chosen size, so I guess this is not the jacket that showed that (if any did at all ).

Thanks for the correction. Of course "can".
The jacket is a standard size 44, which has only been slightly lengthened at the sleeves and body and slightly tapered at the hem. There can always be up to +/- 0.5" tolerance with Aero. But as I said, it's completely unproblematic in everyday use.
The jacket you are talking about was a Sheene in unfinished HH.

 

[AeroFan_07]

I've been lurking here for a while and it's been a really great resource, so I thought I'd finally jump in and hope someone can help. I've decided to buy a leather jacket, having not worn one in a few years, but even after a lot of research I'm struggling to find something that ticks all the boxes. The issue, I think, is primarily one of colour/material. I'm looking for:

Wants

Leather - Goatskin is my strong preference here, but I'm open to suggestions of something similar. I don't want horse or anything that's going to require a really laborious break-in or be excessively heavy duty for day to day wear. I don't ride motorcycles and ideally want something that's broadly suitable for spring/summer/autumn in the UK. I won't wear it in winter so layering will be pretty minimal, just a shirt or t shirt underneath (or both if it's a chillier day).

Style - I like Aero's Highwayman, 50s half belt (standard and long) and Plainsman. I also like Y2's single rider's jacket and Lewis Leather's countryman and lumber jacket styles. So I'm relatively open minded here but definitely do not want zipped cuffs, buttons or anything too complicated or ornate.

Colour - This is where I'm really struggling. I'd love something close to Aero's cordovan, but I can only find goatskin in black or brown. I'd also be interested in a dark green - Lewis's sheep green is the only only I've found so far.

Provenance - Preference is for something manufactured in the UK, but if necessary will consider other brands where production is in-house and I know the workers are paid a decent wage and treated fairly (so US/Japan/Europe). Would really like to avoid any brand that uses anonymous outsourced production. Would ideally like to avoid plastic or synthetic materials in the lining.

Price - There's ready-to-wear Aeros that get close to everything I want, so I'd be reluctant to go much higher for a new jacket. I don't want to go down the custom or bespoke route. I'd be open to a used example but would probably rather buy new so that there's a chance to return it if the fit isn't right.


Does anyone have any ideas for me? Am I going to have to compromise on colour in order to get a quality leather (without going custom)?

Having done a lot of research, my current conclusion is that I'll probably have to settle for black goatskin and wait for something to pop up on Aero's ready to wear section, but I thought I'd throw it out here in case someone knows better or can talk me down a different path.

Since you are in the UK - why not go up and visit Aero in person?

I have wanted to do that for years - just have to get across the pond first.
Trying a bunch of jackets on in person will give you a much better impression than discussing it online or over the phone/email. "Always better in-person"

 

[handymike]

I’m surprised no one has mentioned Thedi. He has wonderful goat jackets in really nice colors.

 

[Canuck Panda]

why not go up and visit Aero in person

^^^

This would also take care of the important fit issue. Thinner Cordovan HH would drape very close to goatskin too, if they have a jacket there in that leather it’s worth it to see how it feels in the hands vs the goatskin.

 

[newtojackets]

Does field leathers do anything in goat?

 

[LuddGang]

I’m surprised no one has mentioned Thedi. He has wonderful goat jackets in really nice colors.

I did look at these but found the website difficult to comprehend - it mentions jackets being available in any of their leathers, but I couldn't actually find a list of leathers. I'll drop them a line though, good shout.

I'll also consider a trip up to Aero. It's a bit of a slog from here, but I could make a fun weekend out of it once the weather breaks.

 

[Zoro]

I did look at these but found the website difficult to comprehend - it mentions jackets being available in any of their leathers, but I couldn't actually find a list of leathers. I'll drop them a line though, good shout.

AFAIK, it'll be a custom and more expensive than Aero. Plus I guess if you're in UK you would also need to factor in import taxes.